Bruno and Théo Schloegel

Domaine Lissner

VigneronBruno and Théo Schloegel
LocationWolxheim (Bas-Rhin)
Size of Domaine9 ha
TerroirContinental climate, sheltered from rain by the Vosges foothills. Red sandstone, Triassic marl and Jurassic oolitic limestone. From gentle to steep slopes on hillsides. 150 to 250m altitude.
ViticultureCertified organic (Ecocert), practising permaculture and Fukuoka farming.
View Domaine Lissner wines ↓

The domaine dates back to 1848 and is located in the historical village of Wolxheim, 20km due west of Strasbourg. Situated on a fault zone where cropping out sandstone and limestone were once extracted from the royal quarries to construct Strasbourg’s fortification.

Bruno Schloegel, an agronomist and scientist, took over his uncle Clément Lissner in 2001 and was joined by his son Théo early on. The pair have carefully established an amazingly diverse fauna and flora in their vineyards, they do not plough, mow or trim the vines but just arrange and weave the shoots during summer to let mother nature express herself. Bruno and Théo do not hesitate to plant directly into the ‘indigenous environment’, and let the new vine compete against the native flora for five to seven years before producing grapes.

Bruno pruning

Their wild vineyards have created a bit of stir in the region, Bruno and Théo are vocal advocates of this Fukuoka inspired approach and its advantages: biodiversity, self-regulating growth of healthy and resistant grapes, better nutrition of the soil, deeper roots and adaptability to drought and rains. Yields are around 30 to 40hh even though the ‘bouillis bordelaise’ treatments are limited (two in 2018) with the aim of stopping them in the near future.

Winemaking at Lissner respects the great grape material eschewing additives; slow pressing (6 to 10 hours), long fermentation and élevage on fine lees are the norm. Wines are bottled without fining or filtration keeping some carbonic gas as a natural protection; the end result is a stunning reflection of the vineyard’s stamina and vitality.

Weaving of the shoots during summer
Wild vineyard

Domaine Lissner Wines

Domaine Lissner

100% Pinot Gris (13% alc, 3g/l of rs)

The pinot gris vines grow on the Soultzberg hill characterised by its soils of muschelkalk (mussel chalk) and clay. The whole bunches are slowly pressed and ferment in stainless steel before being aged on the lees in wooden foudres. The limestone soils give backbone and freshness to this wine, its lovely aromas of white peach and nougat are lifted by a slight 'perlant' which disappears with time or decanting.

Domaine Lissner

100% Pinot Gris (13% alc)

Pinot gris from the Dionysiuskapelle lieu-dit where a Roman chapel was once built (hence the name). The whole grapes macerated for four weeks before being pressed into demi-muids and 500ltr barrels for ageing. Similar to a light red, this wine has rustic and fresh tannins with a crunchy and spiced fruit. For drinking now to 2023.

Domaine Lissner

100% Sylvaner (13% alc)

Located at the bottom of Wolxheim’s amphitheatre shaped hillsides, the vines sit on clay and gravels eroded from the surrounding hills of sandstone and limestone. Aged in traditional foudres on its lees, this wine is extremely digeste with gin & tonic flavours, food-friendly bitters and a saline finish.

Domaine Lissner

100% Riesling (14.5% alc.)

As per the pinot gris classique the vines grow on Triassic limestone around the well-ventilated Soultzberg, the grapes come from different lieux-dits, mostly south-east facing, across the communal appellation of Wolxheim. The juice, from slowly pressed whole bunches, is vinified and aged in stainless steel on its 'lies entières' for a year. Verticality and minerality define this wine, despite its full-bodied texture, with lip-smacking quince marmalade flavours and a saline finish.

Domaine Lissner

100% Riesling (13.3% alc.)

The south-facing, amphitheatre-shaped Altenberg sits at the heart of the Horn hillside, overlooking the village of Wolxheim. This exceptional and historical terroir is a sun trap made of Jurassic oolite limestone, a mineral-rich, porous and friable rock cut through by underground caves and sources; roots dig deep to fetch water and minerals allowing the vines to thrive among a luxuriant flora. This almost Mediterranean micro-climate produces perfectly ripe grapes, yielding extremely dense juice, almost oily as Bruno would say, which in turn ferments and ages in stainless steel on its lees for over a year. Bottling occurs without the use of any sulphur. This wine is an energy ball, intense and powerful, its lime induced acidity tames down after a few years in bottle and beautifully combines with glycerol and salt, displaying an astonishing array of aromas: spices, all citrus (Corsican mandarin, cédrat, yuzu, bergamot…), Mediterranean herbs – many of which are found in the vineyard (e.g. oregano, wild thyme)! The use of a carafe is recommended. For drinking from 2020 to 2030.

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