Château Meylet
| Vigneron | David Favard |
| Location | Saint-Émilion (Gironde) |
| Size of Domaine | 1.7ha |
| Terroir | Atlantic climate. Mixture of clay, limestone, and sand over 'molasse du fronsadais' (sedimentary rock). Subtle slopes, 70m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter). |
| View Château Meylet wines ↓ |
Château Meylet is one of the forerunners of the 'natural wine' movement. Embracing biodynamic farming and additive-free winemaking in the 80s and 90s, the domaine has defied Bordeaux’s establishment since then. It stands as one of the cornerstones of Bordeaux’s counter-culture, yet remains surprisingly under the radar beyond the best bistros of France.
The story began in 1875 when David Favard’s great-great-grandfather moved from Auvergne to Saint-Émilion. A cloth merchant by trade, he purchased 1.7ha of vines to pursue his passion and quench the family’s thirst. Fast forward four generations, David’s father Michel took over the vineyards in 1976 and produced Château Meylet’s maiden vintage in 1978.
Suspicious of the ever-growing reliance on chemical products, Michel Favard pursued organic farming in 1982. He became fascinated with biodynamics from 1987 when he discovered Rudolf Steiner’s writings and had a pivotal encounter with François Bouchet – a leading pioneer in biodynamic viticulture who guided many prestigious growers through conversion including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
Throughout the 80s and 90s, Michel Favard regularly travelled to Paris with a van full of wine and would return only once everything had been sold. He quickly became a regular at the best bistros in the capital, along with friends and contemporaries Marcel Lapierre, Pierre Overnoy, François Dutheil (Château Sainte Anne), and Thierry Puzelat – these growers ignited the creation of the 'Association des Vins Naturels' (A.V.N.), paving the way for the now worldwide movement.
Back at Meylet, Michel vinified without SO2 in 1990 for the first time and he never looked back. Needless to say, biodynamic farming and additive-free winemaking were groundbreaking steps in a region such as Bordeaux. Despite an established reputation and devoted clientele, Château Meylet saw its wines regularly declassified, thereby losing the 'Grand Cru' mention, at times even downgraded to 'Vin de Table' (the equivalent of 'Vin de France' nowadays). Michel faced scrutiny and harassment from the Saint-Émilion AC commission, enduring costly legal battles which he famously won in the early 2000s.
Following an initial collaboration with his father from 1998 to 2001, David forged his own path before returning to Meylet in 2012 to officially take the reins in 2015. He inherited his father’s sensitive nature and works instinctively, placing much emphasis on his own observations to tweak and adapt his viticultural practices. A significant proportion of the work is done by hand to minimise soil compaction and maintain a close connection with each vine: minimal work of the soil with one light ploughing per year, incorporation of compost made in-house, sowing of cover crops, 'tressage' (braiding of the vine’s apex), backpack spraying of biodynamic preparations – these are common practices at the domaine.
In an effort to promote biodiversity and preserve Meylet’s functional ecosystem, David and Michel bordered the domaine, in the early 2000s, with hedgerows and fruit trees (apple, medlar, fig, hawthorn, plum and pear). They also interplanted the vines with heritage rose varieties.
Château Meylet is located northwest of Saint-Émilion, descending from the limestone plateau towards Libourne, a prime terroir surrounded by estates ranked as 'Grand Cru Classé'. The soils here consist of a mix of clay, limestone, and sand, resting on a subsoil of molasse (a soft sedimentary rock). The domaine itself comprises three historical parcels: 0.8ha in the lieu-dit Meylet with 70yo vines; 0.6ha in La Gomerie, an 80-110yo plot (including some ungrafted pre-phylloxera vines!) in particularly sandy soils; 0.3ha in Gravet with 40yo vines in gravelly soils with high content of 'crasse de fer' (iron-rich clay famously found in Château Pétrus). Of note, the lieu-dits Meylet and La Gomerie are just 500m apart, while Gravet lies 6km further towards the northwestern edge of the AC, bordering Pomerol. Yields are naturally low due to the venerable age of the vines, hovering around 25hh on average.
Additive-free winemaking requires rigorous attention to the sanitary condition of the grapes – they are meticulously sorted twice: first by the 'vendangeurs' who remove any imperfect berries, then again at the 'cuverie' to ensure only pristine grapes get into the vat. Fermentation takes place in 50hl tronconic foudres with delicate pigeages – rather than the more common and forceful pumping over – to extract fine, silky tannins. David favours a gentle approach working exclusively by gravity and avoiding pumps entirely. Ageing is tailored to each vintage and carried out in a mix of oak barrels, clay jars, sandstone amphora, and glass demijohns. A tiny dose of SO2 might be added pre-bottling if deemed necessary, never exceeding 15 mg/l total.
The wines are nothing short of exceptional, true clarets reminiscent of the pre-modern oenology and Parkerisation era of Bordeaux; when elegance, restraint, and drinkability defined the region. Burgundian is often used to describe them, a convenient shorthand that reflects how far they diverge from modern expectations. But perhaps it is time to stop reaching for comparisons and simply call them what they are: quintessential Bordeaux. It is no surprise that Château Meylet has long been a fixture at Paris’s most dynamic bars and restaurants – Septime, Le Baratin, Bistrot des Tournelles, Le Verre Volé to name a few – the real puzzle is why so few have joined the chorus outside of France?
Château Meylet Wines
SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU 2017
60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec & Petit Verdot
60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec & Petit Verdot (12.5% alc.)
Meylet’s extraordinary genetic heritage – pre-phylloxera vines, ancient strains and historic varieties – undeniably adds complexity and depth to the wines, allowing a more complete expression of terroir. The bunches were fully destemmed by hand and the 'cuvaison' lasted for 15 days in tronconic foudres. Following two years of élevage in older 500ltr barrels, the wine was neither fined nor filtered before bottling with a pinch of SO2 (15mg/l total). The robe shows a pale raspberry hue, and the wine has a lightly structured and medium-bodied palate – the result of pinpoint extraction. The nose is lifted and nuanced, with red berries, orange peel and rose petals. This is already a joy to drink, with emerging tertiary notes enriching the subtly attractive bouquet. For drinking now to 2030.
SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU 2016
Jarre
60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec & Petit Verdot
60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec & Petit Verdot (13% alc.)
A selection of the finest bunches macerated for six months in a sandstone amphora using the 'mille-feuille' technique: alternating layers of full clusters and hand-destemmed grapes. Following pressing, the wine went back into the amphora for nine months followed by another three months ageing in 2-3yo 500ltr barrels. The combination of semi-carbonic and extended maceration has resulted in a deep, complex, and savoury wine. The chiselled texture is supported by an intense yet extremely fine-grained tannic structure. The expansive palate carries a long, persistent finish, showing red berries, fresh tobacco and herbal notes. The classic and stunning 2016 vintage shines through with finesse and an unmistakably lifted quality – almost 'Ligérien' in style. This is truly outstanding. No SO2 added. For drinking now to 2036+.