Sylvain Pataille
| Vigneron | Sylvain Pataille |
| Location | Marsannay-la-Côte (Côte-d'Or) |
| Size of Domaine | 17 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate. Clay-limestone marls, alluvial sediments on mid-Jurassic (Bajocian and Bathonian) limestone bedrock. Gentle slopes. 250-320m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Certified organic (Ecocert), practising biodynamic. |
| View Sylvain Pataille wines ↓ |
A tasting with Sylvain Pataille is not one you’ll forget in a hurry. A mass of ginger curls and beard, small round spectacles and the air of an eccentric professor, he brims over with energy, running through the fine details of more than 20 different wines in rapid-fire French, whilst dealing with a never ending stream of phone calls. He has to be the busiest grower we work with – not only does he and his wife Maryse have 17ha in and around Marsannay (plus some grape purchases for a generic aligoté cuvée), he's also an independent consultant oenologist for many growers (around 20 back in the day) in the Côte-d’Or and Côte Chalonnaise.
Born and bred in Marsannay, although not from a winemaking family, Sylvain had to start from scratch to get a domaine of his own. From a young age he knew he wanted to be a vigneron, inspired by his grandfather and father while helping vinifying a few barrels "pour la consommation familiale". He went to the wine school in Beaune at age 14 and then to the wine university in Bordeaux in order to become an oenologist. And Sylvain explains, "since my parents didn’t have any vines or domaine, my plan was to travel and make several harvests a year. Instead I got a job at a lab in Beaune (with Kyriakos Kynigopoulos), where I stayed from 1997 to 2001. I learnt a lot but it was quite superficial – you try the wines during vinification and ageing, and after that you don’t exist anymore. The wines are not yours and the guy who made them has forgotten about you. I really needed to create something that I could call my own".
So, he started off in 1999 with just 1ha of vines, which leaped to 9ha in 2002 including Clos du Roy and La Charme Aux Prêtres. Sylvain acquired a cave in nearby Chenôve in 2004, although still keeping an old and jam-packed vaulted cellar in the centre of Marsannay for barrel ageing his wines. As the years have passed, he has gathered an enviable number of some of the finest terroirs of Marsannay, where a layer of limestone is never far from the surface – they have been tended biodynamically since 2015.
Sylvain loves to keep tiny parcels of very old vines and has become the leading proponent of the re-appraisal of aligoté. A grape which has many similarities to chardonnay, both were first grown in Burgundy in the 17th century and are natural crosses of pinot and gouais blanc – two of Western Europe’s most ancient and prolific progenitors. Sylvain produces a clutch of age-worthy single-vineyard aligotés that explore the grape’s nuances. He is one of five founder members of the Aligoteurs association, a group that now numbers 50 growers (mainly Burgundy) dedicated to showcasing the finest expression of the grape, and hosting a fascinating tasting every April.
Sylvain carries out new plantings of all the vineyards by massal selection with clippings from growers like Jean-Marc Roulot, and he uses a good number of low yielding rootstocks (strictly no SO4) to add complexity, planting at very high densities of 12-14,000 vines per hectare. Yields average a low 35hh, he uses an old vertical press, presses very slowly over 6-8 hours for both whites and reds, varies the percentage of stalks used for the reds, and carries out élevages of up to two years, in a mix of cuves, fûts, 350ltr and 600ltr barrels. The percentage of new oak rarely goes above a modest 20%, and many of the whites are only aged in older 7-8yo 350ltr barrels. Only the bottom 15% of vats are filtered for the whites, and sulphur use is minimal with total levels of around 30mg/l for whites (added after racking and before bottling) and 20-25mg/l total for reds. He decides on the bottling dates by taste, whenever the wines are ready.
Whilst some of the top lieux-dits like Clos du Roy give bottlings that will age very well, most of the wines are united by a digeste quality that makes them approachable and so enjoyable in their youth – you just want to drink them. Sylvain is equally adept at making whites and reds (quite rare in Burgundy) and his Marsannay Rosé is outstanding too – delicious from the outset it becomes even better given a few years bottle age.
N.B. When the Marsannay appellation was created in 1987, it comprised the entire villages of Couchey and Marsannay, but only the southern part of Chenôve. A small scale wine-growing village till the 1950s, Chenôve was absorbed into the urban conglomeration of Dijon. Le Chapitre, one of the last vineyards standing in Chenôve is indisputably one of the greatest in the whole Marsannay area. Continuing along the same line of hillside as Clos du Roy, it was left out of the appellation for political reasons, and bottled under the generic Bourgogne AC. This injustice has been righted from the 2019 vintage, when it became a recognised climat of the Marsannay AC.
The other quest for the appellation has been to secure a well-deserved 1er Cru status for the AC’s best climats (Clos du Roy, Les Longeroies, La Montagne, La Charme aux Prêtres, Les Grasses Têtes, Le Chapitre etc) – the claim was filed with the INAO years ago and, hopefully, the first positive results should come out soon.
Sylvain Pataille Wines
BOURGOGNE BLANC 2020
Les Méchalots
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This comes from a tiny 0.30ha parcel of 7yo vines planted in deep clay soils with many small stones and was transferred into 7-8yo oak barrels halfway through fermentation. Quite Chablisesque on the nose, it has a beautiful lime flower aroma that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, confit lemon and a saline twang on the finish.
MARSANNAY 2021
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The white Marsannay comes from five parcels of very limestone influenced soil including fruit from newly planted vines in Couchée and shows some reduction on the nose. The palate is more indicative of the wine, displaying a fine thread of acidity, plenty of citrus lemon, lime and minerals, and a precise, lively finish. Once the reduction blows off the nose awakens and displays the qualities of a very fine wine.
MARSANNAY 2020
Le Chapitre
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Bottled as Marsannay from 2019 vintage, Le Chapitre was originally excluded from the AC despite its high-quality site (see profile). The vines (0.3ha) were planted in 1955 in a mix of marl and limestone scree soils, facing east on a very steep slope – similar to the climat Clos du Roy. The wine has a crisp, pure bouquet of stone fruits, gaining intensity with aeration. The fresh, focused palate is well balanced with a laser beam of acidity, quite tangy with sour lemon and quince on a lengthy finish. Excellent.
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2019
La Charme aux Prêtres
100% Aligoté
100% Aligoté (13% alc.)
La Charme aux Prêtres is a reference to the church that lies further down the slope, an historical climat in the village of Marsannay. The aligoté vines were planted in 1949 on gravelly, reddish-brown soil over a Comblanchien limestone bedrock. Aged for 24 months in 228-500l barrels, this is a powerful, resonant wine. The palate is generous to start, but there’s an iron fist behind. The acidity picks up from the mid-palate, driving a finish that is all about minerality – the imprint of limestone is so present that it imparts a gentle tannic grip. A chardonnay bottling is also made from vines planted in 1985, it is obviously another outstanding wine – La Charme aux Prêtres gives wines of 1er cru quality.
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2019
Les Auvonnes au Pépé
100% Aligoté
100% Aligoté (13.5% alc.)
0.8ha in the climat En Auvonnes, planted by Sylvain’s grandfather Armand in 1955 and 1961. This plot has been rented 'en fermage' over three generations, and is where Sylvain cut his teeth at an early age (see profile) – he has fond memories of his grandfather (pépé in French) and remembers hanging out with him at the local bistrot playing tarot with the elders! Sylvain makes a point of making the best wine he can year after year (regularly ranked in our top five) from these beautiful old vines of aligoté doré. En Auvonnes is found on the lower part of the slope, closer to the D974 and on the border of Marsannay with Couchey. Here the dense marl soil is littered with 'cailloux calcaires', it brings a reductive character to the wine, always age-worthy (3 to 5 years in bottle is often needed) with an incredible pillow-like mouthfeel, it’s almost 'sticky' balanced by electric acids and salt.
MARSANNAY ROSÉ 2019
Fleur de Pinot
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Beurot
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Beurot (12.5% alc.)
The tradition of rosé wine in Marsannay dates back 1919, following the war, the idea was to create 'un vin de fête' to revive business. Sylvain’s outstanding rosé is made from 50-90yo PN and pinot beurot (the Burgundian strain of pinot gris). The vines are planted in rocky white marls, from limestone-heavy terroirs usually dedicated to white grapes (Charmes aux Prêtres, Champ Forey), helping to confer a texture that is more typical of a white wine. Half comes from a direct press of the grapes and half from a 2-3 days maceration on the skins. Very unusually for a rosé, this benefits from a two years élevage (in older 600 ltr barrels). Savoury nose and then on the palate full of vivid raspberry fruit encased in lovely acidity and minerals with light tannins in evidence. Extremely persistent, suggesting that bottle age will benefit – Sylvain recommends at least two years. For drinking now to 2026.
MARSANNAY 2021
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Sylvain has 3ha of 50yo vines for his red Marsannay. Aged in a mix of 2 to 10yo barrels plus several old demi-muids. This includes around 25% whole bunches, underpinned by a dark berry and briar bouquet with fine definition. The medium-bodied palate offers mulberry and red plum notes, moderate acidity and meat juices infusing the red fruit on the ample finish.
MARSANNAY 2020
En Clémengeots
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Located at the northern border of Couchey, this east-facing site is characterized by shallow 30-40cm clay soils over a plaque of very hard limestone. En Clémengeots comes from 1ha of 40yo vines and Sylvain kept 50% whole bunches. There are lovely ripe raspberries and griotte cherries on the nose, with floral hints of peonies too. The medium-bodied palate, layered and succulent, offers fine weight as well as grip and a tang of spice toward the lively finish.
MARSANNAY 2019
La Montagne
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
The climat En La Montagne is located north of Marsannay in what used to be a Comblanchien limestone quarry. The 0.5ha of 50yo vines sit atop the slope in a combe surrounded by forest, a cool and humid spot that yields extremely elegant wines with freshness and low alcohol. Mostly destemmed and gently extracted (infusion), this is aged in larger/older barrels. It's always highly drinkable with a lifted element to it, the nuanced aromatics linger in the mouth, carried by salty limestone-induced minerals.
MARSANNAY 2019
Le Chapitre
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Bottled as Marsannay from 2019 vintage, Le Chapitre was originally excluded from the AC despite its high-quality site (see profile). This is made from 1ha of 25, 40 and 70yo vines. Exhibiting aromas of orange rind, wild berries, plums and dark chocolate, it’s medium to full-bodied, with a muscular chassis of powdery tannin, savouriness and fine concentration. More structured than many of the domaine's Marsannay cuvées, this will really blossom with four or five years in the cellar.
MARSANNAY 2020
Clos du Roy
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Arguably the best terroir of the appellation, the east-facing Clos du Roy is one of the contenders for the 1er Cru classification to come. 2ha of mostly 60yo vines (2/3) on stony marls, it contains 90% whole bunches and was given a 18 months élevage. You cannot detect a single stem on the fulsome, generous bouquet of red cherries mixed with strawberry and raspberry. The fresh, vibrant palate is medium bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and one of the most precise finishes among Pataille’s reds. Classy, and always the wine at this address that will benefit from some bottle age. A rare and always outstanding aligoté bottling is also made from the Clos du Roy.
MARSANNAY 2020
L’Ancestrale
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This is Sylvain’s top red cuvée, made from a selection of the best and oldest vines at the domaine – from the lieux-dits Clos du Roy, Clémengeots, and Les Ouzeloy, they were planted between 1930-1945 on 'grèzes litées' (imbricated rock fragments bedded parallel to the slope) that sit on white oolite limestone bedrock. The vines are only worked by horse through the season and they're weaved by hand, no trimming. The wine was fermented with 95% whole bunch and given 24 months élevage. Deeply structured, with an abundance of very fine, pixelated tannins, it keeps changing in the glass, from crunchy red fruits to spices, green tea, oyster shell, and floral notes. A truly captivating wine although rare as hen's teeth, we cannot recommend it highly enough.