Pattes Loup,
Thomas Pico
| Vigneron | Thomas Pico |
| Location | Courgis (Yonne) |
| Size of Domaine | 22 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate. Clay-limestone on Kimmeridgian and Portlandian (late Jurassic) limestone bedrock. 200-300m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter). |
| View Pattes Loup, Thomas Pico wines ↓ |
Thomas Pico, one of Chablis’ most talented and dynamic growers, was raised in Courgis in a family of vignerons. After studying viticulture in Beaune, he returned in 2004 to join his father at Domaine de Bois d’Yver. In 2006, he made the first wine under his own Pattes Loup label, from 2.5ha of vines.
The name comes from the lieu-dit Pattes Loup (translating as 'wolf’s paws'), a parcel Thomas inherited from his beloved grandfather at a young age. He recalls his granddad telling him shortly before his passing: "do not make the same mistakes I did in the vineyard!" – this moment proved pivotal, Thomas convinced his father to abandon chemicals and pursue organics in 2005, achieving certification in 2009. Thomas also learnt under the wing of local luminaries Alice and Olivier de Moor – these days, the three friends co-run the renowned wine fair 'Chai l’Un Chai l’Autre'.
Kimmeridgian limestone in the steep slope of Beauregard Over the years, Thomas has often spoken out about Chablis’ dependence on chemicals, pointing to erosion and loss of life in the soils. In a region where herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides remain widespread, Pattes Loup and its fastidiously tended vines – happily living among a wide array of wildflowers and plants – feels like a world apart.
Nowadays, Domaine Pattes Loup is certified biodynamic (since 2021), it extends over 22ha – mostly family plots acquired over the years – all situated on the left bank of the Serein river around the hills of Courgis and Préhy. Thomas and his team of 11 full-time employees practice agroforestry to break Chablis’ monoculture and reintroduce biodiversity. They sow cover crops and cut them in spring to create a mulch, supporting soil health and resilience. The cohesive and well-organised team handles every single task 'in-house', from making and spreading compost to bottling wine with their own equipment, ensuring precision at every stage.
Agroforestry and young trees in Courgis Winemaking takes place at Bois d’Yver in a modern, functional winery with a state-of-the-art underground ageing cellar. Thomas and team harvest later than most to achieve full ripeness from low-yielding vines. Fermentation occurs in a variety of vessels (concrete eggs, barrels, foudres, stainless steel vats) with long ageing on lees to preserve tension, texture, and balance. There is no filtration of the wines and minimal SO2 is added at racking and pre-bottling only, with levels transparently declared on labels (ranging from 15 to 35mg/l total).
Challenges during the vintages 2015, 2016, and 2017 – including frost, hail, and disease – resulted in drastically low yields and financial pressure. Rather than compromise his convictions, Thomas embraced extended ageing – a practice he had long aspired to – which pushed the wines to a new level of complexity and depth. Since 2018, 'élevage long' and 'mise tardive' have become the hallmark of Pattes Loup: from a minimum of two years for the cuvée Vent d’Ange to four years for the 1er Crus, with the exact bottling dates appearing on the labels. The result is Chablis of striking vitality, density, and transparency that reflect Thomas’ passion and uncompromising vision.
The vineyards of Courgis in the lieu-dit Bois d'Yver Pattes Loup, Thomas Pico Wines
CHABLIS 2022
Vent d’Ange
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This cuvée comes from 17 parcels representing just under 17ha around Courgis (south-west of Chablis). As per all holdings at Pattes Loup, the vines average 35-40yo with the oldest reaching 70yo, they are planted from massal selections on Chablis' ubiquitous Kimmeridgian soil (Jurassic period). A full qualitative harvest yields an average of 30 to 40hh. The wine spends two to three winters on fine lees in a variety of vessels: concrete eggs and vats, barrels and foudres of different sizes as well as stainless steel vats. Bottling and the subsequent releases take place on different dates based on Thomas' selection in the cellar – the exact bottling date appears on the labels. The cuvée Vent d'Ange consistently shows remarkable drinkability, vitality, and depth of fruit with aromas of ripe grapefruit and wild herbs. Quintessentially Chablis in character, this is Pattes Loup's flagship wine.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2020
Beauregard
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The steep and rocky coteau of Beauregard is Courgis' emblematic 1er Cru. It sits on a SE-facing slope, just south of the village, and rises to 300m making it one of the highest and coolest 1er Cru in Chablis. Aged up to four years in foudres and 4-6yo barrels from 228 to 600ltr, the wine spends three months in cuve before bottling. It is more forward in its youth than the Butteaux 1er Cru cuvée, offering very attractive redcurrant on the nose. It beautifully combines lift and vinosity with a lingering salty finish. For drinking now to 2030.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2020
Butteaux
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Butteaux is a superb left bank 'climat' at the south-western tip of the 1er Cru Montmains. Located on top of the hill, it is a cool and steep site with a shallow and stony topsoil. As per all 1er Cru wines at Pattes Loup, this ages in a mix of barrels and foudres of different sizes, mostly of French origin but also including some Stockinger foudres. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered with low SO2 (see profile). Bursting with confit lemon and apricot on the nose, Butteaux tends to have a firmer, more austere texture than Beauregard. It is deep and structured by chalky bitters, the wine always shows stunning energy with a long and sapid finish. For drinking now to 2030+.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2020
Les Vaillons
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This Vaillons 1er Cru is made with purchased grapes from Gérard Duplessis, one of Thomas' close friends. It hails from organically farmed old vines in the lieu-dit Séchet. The grapes are picked and vinified by the team at Pattes Loup. Aged for three to four years and made in tiny quantities, it is typically richer and rounder than Beauregard and Butteaux, still with notable purity and tension on the finish, showcasing the vineyard’s prestigious pedigree.