Emmanuel Lassaigne

Jacques Lassaigne

VigneronEmmanuel Lassaigne
LocationMontgueux (Aube)
Size of Domaine6 ha
TerroirContinental climate with Oceanic influence. Shallow clay-limestone topsoil over upper Cretaceous chalk, some flint. Up to 20% slope, mostly south facing. 150-250m altitude.
ViticulturePracticing organic
View Jacques Lassaigne wines ↓

Emmanuel Lassaigne owns a small holding (3.5ha) of old vine chardonnay, in the isolated village of Montgueux to the west of Troyes, also complementing this by buying grapes from trusted sources – 2.5ha of old vines planted on the slopes where he doesn’t own vineyards in the village. Here there is a Cretaceous strata of chalk, 15 million years older than in the Côte des Blancs.

Back in the 1970s his father Jacques, together with three brothers, became only the second family in Montgueux to own a press (Champagne Beaugrand, still in operation today, was the first). The estate sold both grapes and bottles of champagne before running into financial difficulties in the late 1990s. At this point in 1999 Manu ditched a successful job with an international manufacturing company and came home to help his parents, motivated both by the prospect of his family losing the estate and also by a sense of frustration he felt at the lack of recognition for Montgueux. Most of the other areas in Champagne can point to centuries of wine-making history – Montgueux can’t, and even when the négoce bought grapes from the village they tried to hide the fact. Manu explains, “To buy so much fruit and then deny it is not fair. I thought we must put Montgueux on our bottles and be proud of our terroir. I was born here. If people say where you were born is shit and you disagree, well you are motivated to do something about it".

“To buy so much fruit and then deny it is not fair. I thought we must put Montgueux on our bottles and be proud of our terroir. I was born here.”

The estate used to sell all the wines it produced at the door to the public, but with a clear vision, Manu changed this policy opting to look to the best restaurants and retailers to buy his champagnes, analysing what helped champagnes complement cuisine rather than just serve as an aperitif. It was a big risk. "By the end of 2002, I only had two customers, so it was not easy!" He also made changes in the way the domaine’s vines were tended and in how the wines were made and packaged. Many changes were small and implemented on the back of his direct experience, and this gradual evolution is constant today. As Manu puts it, “Each step is a detail. One detail doesn't change anything. But all details together make a big difference".

Manu disgorges by hand

In the vineyards, he eschews all chemicals even those permitted under organic viticulture. He works only with old vines and in the winery each parcel of grapes is kept separate, sulphur is added only at the press, most of his wines are cuve aged (a small proportion of oak is used to benefit texture in LVDM and Le Cotet), although there are two micro-cuvées La Colline Inspirée and Clos Sainte-Sophie aged 100% in barrels. He doesn’t fine or filter, uses a very low 20mg/l for the secondary fermentation, disgorges by hand and adds no dosage. “The only goal here is to catch and keep the aromas of the terroir, that’s the sole focus”. As well as the domaine’s emblematic cuvée Les Vignes de Montgueux, Le Cotet, Millésime and La Colline Inspirée, Manu also produces the occasional rare and experimental bottlings, and makes a quite brilliant Coteaux Champenois that is only released in ripe vintages.

There is a restless energy about Manu – every year he pushes the bar a little higher for himself and makes life more difficult but consistently interesting… and the champagnes that emerge are just exquisite. Blessed with a wicked sense of humour, with a naughty glint in his eye, and generous to a fault, he is also the uncrowned master of epic visits - be prepared for something quite out of the ordinary if ever you get the chance!

Jacques Lassaigne Wines

Jacques Lassaigne

100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)

Comprising fruit from eight different terroirs: 41% 2016, 32% 2015 and 27% 2014, LVDM is more complex and vinous than ever given greater use of reserve wines – Emmanuel is forever restless in his search for improvements. This has ripe citron fruit with exotic notes and is very saline, with great play on the palate and terrific texture. Just 20g/l for the secondary fermentation, it has a very fine gentle bubble. Disgorged with zero dosage in November 2018, (though like le Cotet, Manu prefers to call it Extra Brut). Low levels of sulphur used only at the press.

Jacques Lassaigne

100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)

This lieu-dit cuvée comes from 0.6ha of 45yo vines. It’s a blend of 76% 2015, 14% of oak aged 2014 and 10% 2013, 2012, 2011, 2008, 2006, 2004 and 2002 finished bottles of le Cotet that Emmanuel has opened up and ‘remis en cercle’. It has a very pure, bracing fruit (making for a superb aperitif) mixed with hints of honeysuckle, straw, hazelnut from the older wines and zero dosage. Very limited quantity.

Jacques Lassaigne

100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)

This is a blend of old vines in Lassaigne’s three top vineyards of Les Paluets (40%), le Cotet (40%) and la Grande Côte (20%). It is always vinified 100% in stainless steel which Emmanuel feels captures the purest expression of the terroirs. Brut Nature, this has excellent balance with peach, stewed lemon and mango fragrantly ample and inviting, with an intense, detailed stony chalkiness (from le Cotet). As this ages it takes on a Meursault character.

Jacques Lassaigne

100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)

The ‘Inspired Hill’ is the one main cuvée produced by Manu that is vinified and aged in barrel, in this instance from 15 x 228ltr Burgundy and 1 x 500ltr older barrels. It is a blend of vintages, from 2014 (48%), 2013 (35%) and 2012 (17%), and comes mainly from Haut Revers du Chutat and Grand Côte (plus five other plots across the hill of Montgueux). It was bottled off in May 2015 and disgorged ‘a la volée’ by hand without dosage in Nov 2018. It has perfectly integrated the oak, the fruit mixes stewed lemons, tropical fruit and hazelnut, and there is a lovely saline cut on the finish.

Jacques Lassaigne

Haut Revers du Chutat, Acte 1, Scène III
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)

Manu makes a few one-off wines privileging experiment and an off the beaten track spirit, and this exceptional still wine is only made in limited quantities in riper vintages (2010 was the previous version) when the juice naturally hits an alcohol level (12.2%) that is too high to produce champagne. Made from vines planted in 1968 at the top of a south facing limestone slope, aged in six older fûts and a 500ltr barrel for 22 months, the balance of this wine is exemplary, putting many fine Côte de Beaune wines to shame. It shows exotic ripe fruits cut through with a vein of acidity and an almost painful stamp of saline minerals. Very low sulphur. For drinking now to 2024.