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Pierre and Jean Gonon

Pierre Gonon

VigneronJean and Pierre Gonon
LocationMauves (Ardèche)
Size of Domaine10 ha
TerroirContinental climate, Mistral (northern wind) influence. Decomposed granite, gneiss, calcareous limestone, ancient Rhône alluvium and loess on granite bedrock. Steep terraced slopes overlooking the Rhône, 180-280m altitude.
ViticultureCertified organic
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Pierre Gonon was a mainstay at Mauves for many years, making quietly understated wines. He was joined by his two sons Jean in 1986 and Pierre in 1988, with the brothers sharing most tasks. Their father had to retire early due to ill health in 1989, and since then the brothers have worked with a passion to raise this domaine to the point where it is now generally considered as the leading domaine in Saint-Joseph.

They initially made wines from two cramped cellars, but in 2002 they finished construction of a new winemaking cave and cellar, still linked to one of the two ancient, atmospheric cellars. The domaine's vines are planted in the original heart of the Saint-Joseph appellation, the granitic terraced hillsides of Mauves and Tournon (a good number of the vines in Mauves were planted by German prisoners of war during the second world war), and their wines came from these two sources until they started renting 1.5 ha of old vines in St Jean de Muzols (which represents 20% of their main red cuvée) from the legendary Raymond Trollat in 2004, which in more recent years they have now purchased.

All the vines that go to make the red St Joseph are from sélection massale, no clones are used whatsoever. In the vineyards, their work is now certified organic, and they plough by horse wherever they can (a Jura Comtois breed called Samson took the strain when Cath spent a week working in the vines in June 2012), and use a trident plough attached to a cable and winch in the steepest parts.

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The old atmospheric cellar
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Yields are in the low 30hh on average, and after picking the grapes are destalked on average 85%, transferred by conveyor belt directly into ancient wooden vats, punched down by foot by Jean and Pierre twice a day during a two/three weeks fermentation, with one remontage a day during the cuvaison. They are then aged for 12 months minimum in new to 15yo 600ltr demi-muids, assembled in cuve for 5 months before bottling unfined and unfiltered at the end of February with a low total sulphur level of around 35mg/l.

As well as the main cuvée of red, they produce an excellent white St Joseph from marsanne and roussanne planted on the lower slopes of Mauves in the Les Oliviers vineyard, in soils of ancient Rhône alluvium and some loess on a granitic bedrock. They occasionally bottle off one demi-muid from the old Raymond Trollat vines in St Jean de Muzols, but this cuvée is quite anecdotal - an allocation of 12 bottles per importer when the brothers choose to release the wine doesn't go far! They also make a syrah cuvée called Les Iles Feray that comes from parcels of vines less than 10yo, and a little chasselas from the Trollat vineyards too.

We met Jean and Pierre in 1992, just three years after Vine Trail was born in 1989, the same year the brothers took over from their father. Watching them grow and develop to become one of the Northern Rhône's leading domaines and the reference point in St-Joseph has been an immense joy.

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Vine are cross-weaved in summer and left this way till winter pruning
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Pierre Gonon Wines

Pierre Gonon

ST-JOSEPH 2017
Les Oliviers
80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne (14.5% alc.)

Les Oliviers, just to the north of Mauves, has a soil of ancient Rhône alluvium and some loess on a granitic bedrock. Pulled out of 228ltr barrels on September 3rd 2018 and then assembled in a stainless steel vat for almost six months before bottling in late February. Typically dense, textured, complex peach and apricot fruits, with a floral, honeysuckle note and touch of noble bitterness and ginger from the marsanne on the finish. Compares in analysis to 2015 per Jean Gonon. Low total S02 of just 35mg/l. For drinking now to 2027+.

Pierre Gonon

ST-JOSEPH 2017
100% Syrah (13.5% alc.)

Incorporates three hectares of 80 year old vines purchased from the legendary Raymond Trollat in St Jean de Muzols (representing one third of the wine) and Jean noted during my visit last year that no syrah clones are used at all now for this wine, just massale selection. Made from 100% whole bunches in 2017, it’s quite floral on the nose (violets), with typical stamp of blackberry fruit and notable tapenade and liquorice, and the palate staining quality typical of fruit from St Jean de Muzols – the dry extract and mineral print from this vineyard is such that it almost sucks all the saliva out of your mouth when young, and provides a perfect backbone to help the wine age very well – as a guide Jean Gonon recommends six years. The wine possesses great energy, balance and finesse, and is long, irony and saline on a mineral infused finish. For drinking now to 2026+.

Pierre Gonon

ST-JOSEPH 2015
Vieilles Vignes
100% Syrah (13.5% alc.)

The Gonon brothers made this wine from vines purchased from Raymond Trollat that were planted in 1910 and the 1920s on the steep hillsides of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols (where the soil is a crumbly granite). It’s a confidential cuvée made from time to time (the last vintage before this was 2010), to evidence what their work on the exceptional terroir of St Jean de Muzols can produce in the best vintages. They produced just one demi-muid of this dark, inky purple coloured wine. It has a brooding nose with ripe black raspberry, cassis and violets as well as vibrant notes of white pepper, allspice and smoky minerals, all part of an astonishingly complex bouquet. The palate presents stylish fruit, effortless 'gras', richness, with snug tannins that fit like a glove. The juice is elegant, the tannins are excellent, with a finish that is like essence of crumbled stone with an irony core, that sucks the saliva out of the mouth. This is complete, total, long-lived wine. Jean told us that he had no idea when this remarkable but extremely small-production wine would be released (and importers will be lucky to be offered even one case) but he did say that he didn't expect that he and his brother Pierre would be in any rush to do so. For drinking to 2040.