Wines
Chartogne-Taillet Wines
SAINTE-ANNE
50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier
50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
This is a lovely, delicate style of champagne with fine bubbles (liqueur de tirage at 22g/l instead of the more typical 24g/l for the secondary fermentation), showing very pure citrus fruits with good energy, a hint of quince, brioche and a saline, mineral flavour. It comes from 35yo vines planted in sandstone, clay and chalk in Merfy. Made from the 2021 vintage mainly with some reserve wines, it was disgorged in November 2023, dosage 2.75g/l.
ROSÉ
50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier
50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
A delicate salmon pink colour, this rosé champagne is based on the 2020 vintage and was aged in a mix of 228ltr and 350ltr barrels. 15% pinot noir still wine from Orizeaux and Les Fontaines was assembled to give texture, structure and colour. It is very elegant and nuanced, layers of cherry and redcurrant fruits, underlined by subtle mineral/umami notes. The dosage of 6g/l brings balance and suits perfectly. Disgorged 11/22.
COUARRES-CHÂTEAU 2013
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
One of two single vineyard champagnes from Alexandre that he produces in very limited quantities, the pinot noir vines here were planted in 1987, in a parcel where there is 60cm of sandy soils over tufa. This is the third vintage released, aged in 3-6yo barrels with 22g/l for the secondary fermentation. While it shows an intensity and energy typical of 2013, it remains graceful and subtly poised, driven by its tense, pungent minerality. Its elegantly fragrant notes of red cherry and pear persist with excellent length on the finish, anchored by a pronounced salinity. 5.5g/l dosage. VLQ.
LES COUARRES 2016
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Les Couarres is a lieu-dit in the heart of Merfy on a gentle south-facing slope where Alexandre owns two parcels – one on tuffeau (soft, fine-grained, mica-rich limestone also found in the Loire) and another one on deep clay soil. Particularly sensitive to oxidation, Alexandre takes great care in protecting these wines by using 2-3yo barrels which he places in the coolest part of the cave and tops up regularly. The wines from this parcel take time to unfurl and reveal themselves, they have a fleshy, spherical quality imparted by the clay soils which also bring tension and fine bitters, and a fine, gentle stony dimension from the tuffeau. Disgorged 09/20 - Dosage 5g/l.
LES BARRES 2018
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
From a tiny parcel of ungrafted meunier vines planted in 1952 that were never touched by phylloxera (in a layer of sand that lies five feet above a bedrock of Campanian chalk), this was fermented entirely in 3-6yo oak barrels. It’s elegantly textured and sleekly built, marked by a graceful tension and a resonant briny signature of sandy soils. It unfolds on the palate with subtle layers of flavour, persisting with refined harmony and excellent length. Disgorged 05/22 - Dosage 3g/l.
LES BARRES ‘BLACK LABEL’ 2015
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Usually reserved for the production of a single vineyard ungrafted pinot meunier, Les Barres sits on 1.5m of free-draining Thanetian sand (the same soil as Les Béguines in Gueux) overlying Campanian chalk. Alexandre limits ploughing to the bare minimum (just once before winter and only under the row) to avoid compaction, and allows grass to grow to improve soil structure. Planted in 1987 on the west facing section of Les Barres, the pinot noir returns low yields on the sandy, free-draining soil. It has dense, unfurled fruit on the palate, characteristically generous thanks to the sand, with a brisk vein of acidity running through, and mineral salts as well as bitters driving the finish. A very fine inaugural release from Alex! Disgorged 07/19 - Dosage 4.5g/l.
ORIZEAUX 2017
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
This comes from vines planted in 1961 in sandy soil just above Alexandre's parcel of Les Barres. The parcel has always been highly prized by the Chartogne family as the wine reflects both the warmth of the Thanetian sandy soil and the mineral quality of the limestone bedrock. Aged in 3-6yo barrels with 22g/l for the secondary fermentation, it’s a champagne of refinement and class, with succulent, perfectly pitched red fruits and is sure to age very well. Disgorged 11/22 - Dosage 3g/l.
HEURTEBISE 2019
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Les Heurtes Bises is a lieu-dit on a windy plateau in Merfy, anchored in a sandstone bedrock with water holding capacity far inferior to that of chalk soils nearby. The vines are regularly subjected to excess or lack of water as a result, so Alex pays particular attention to canopy management to help the plant adapt, either promoting evapotranspiration (water loss through the plant’s leaves) in wet vintages, or suppressing it in dry vintages. Alex pushed the élevage up to 18 months in 228ltr barrels to bring breadth and volume to this finely chiselled, multi-layered mineral bomb. Disgorged 02/24 - Dosage 2.4g/l.
CHEMIN DE REIMS 2017
90% Chardonnay, 10% Arbanne
90% Chardonnay, 10% Arbanne (12.5% alc.)
1.1ha of vines (planted in 1980, 1995, 2011) often worked under a natural cover crop to limit water excess and vines' vigour. The iron-rich soil as well as S/SE exposure yield a full wine structured by tannins-like bitters. Aged in 350 and 600ltr barrels with regular top-ups to promote reduction and preserve the originality of this plot. Disgorged 05/21 - Dosage 6g/l.
Jérôme Prévost Wines
LA CLOSERIE (2020)
Les Béguines
90% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris & Chardonnay
90% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris & Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The initial still wine from the 2020 vintage was oak aged in new to 13yo barrels for ten months, before being bottled and then disgorged in August 2022 at which point 2g/l dosage was added. Rich, vinous, dense, complex and extremely long on the palate but all the time beautifully fresh and balanced.
LA CLOSERIE (2020)
Fac-Simile
90% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris & Chardonnay
90% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris & Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Jérôme makes this extremely delicately coloured fine rosé by the addition of one barrel of pinot meunier red wine aged for 11 months and then gently infused and married with the white wine – the idea of doing a saignée just for the sake of colour was not for Jérôme. It’s an extremely fine example with layers of delicately perfumed spiced red fruits and an incredible textural finesse. Disgorged 10/22 - Dosage 2g/l.
LA CLOSERIE (2020)
&
80% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay
80% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The 'Closerie &' cuvée was created to compensate losses due to different climate change related issues (hail, frost, storm etc). Grapes can come from different parts of Champagne depending on the year, some of them are tended by Jérôme and his team, others by the owners themselves – always in close collaboration i.e. both the date of harvest and sorting of the grapes are in Jérôme’s hands. In 2020, the pinot meunier came from Gueux while the chardonnay was sourced in Cuis 1er Cru (Côtes des Blancs). Disgorged 08/22 - Dosage 2g/l.
GRAND CRU (2020)
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
As per the 'Closerie &' cuvée (see above), grapes are bought from reliable and trusted sources. The chardonnay came from Le Mesnil GC (Côtes des Blancs) while the pinot was sourced in Puisieulx GC (Montagne de Reims), both plots were planted in the 1960s. No reserve wines, no dosage and disgorged 08/22. As Jérôme puts it, "my usual agricultural and winemaking practices are applied, and this bottling showcases the vineyards' noble pedigree."
Alexandre Lamblot Wines
MOUVANCE (2017)
55% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay
55% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
The 25-50yo pinot noir dominant vines here are planted in both Chenay and Vrigny in very sandy soils, that convey a lot of character, structure and finesse to a champagne that is especially suited to long ageing (Alexandre judges that it can be drunk until 2028). There is both a complexity and purity on the nose that are a signature of Lamblot champagnes, depth, lift and energy on the palate with minerals and enticing bitters keeping you riveted to the end. Disg. 12/21 - Non dosé.
INTUITION (2018)
60% Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay
60% Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This pinot meunier dominant blend comes from a selection of parcels on sandy and silty soils located in Gueux, Vrigny and Chenay, where the vines range from 30 to 60yo. The selection and blend change every year – this is an 'exercice de style' where Alexandre works 'by intuition' aiming at elegance and nuances. This cuvée is marked by the pristine character of its lifted and floral fruit, with harmony and energy at the fore. Disg. 04/21 - Non dosé.
FRÉNÉSIE (2018)
Vrigny 1er Cru
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12% alc.)
Frénésie is a 100% pinot meunier champagne from old vines (40-60yo) across four terroirs in the sandy soils of Vrigny (1er Cru). It’s a selection of the best four barrels of the domaine and it was given 31 months ageing 'sur lattes'. This is a champagne that will keep longer than others, Alexandre reckons that it has at least eight years to give post disgorgement – its fruit is tightly wound, it’s dense and vinous, but never too heavy, with distinct herbal notes, even a touch of chamomile on the palate. Its sapidity is marked with attractive bitters and salinity on a very long finish. Disg. 12/21 - Non dosé.
AMPLITUDE (2017)
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Alexandre’s confidential cuvée Amplitude (that isn’t made every year) comes from two tiny parcels of old vines – Les Fourgons in Vrigny (1969), and Grand Chemin in Janvry (1982). Just two barrels were produced in 2017 and what a wine! It has weight, depth and richness on the palate that reminded us of a Selosse champagne, but it also combines tension with crunchy acids and minerals. Given a longer period 'sur lattes' of 42 months during which three 'poignettages' (see profile) were carried out. It’s already outstanding and will age gracefully. Disg. 02/22 - Non dosé.
LA VIGNE À VOVONNE (2018)
Vrigny 1er Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This box set of two bottles – one red Côteaux Champenois and one Champagne made from the same plot – is named in honour of Alexandre’s inspiring grandmother Yvonne, superbly depicted on the label. This is a fascinating study of terroir, parcel and cépage – from 1984 pinot noir vines planted in the vineyard of Les Clos in Vrigny (1er Cru), the soil has a deep 1.5m top layer of Thanetian sand over clay and limestone. The still red Côteaux Champenois has an attractive reduction on the nose that soon wafts away, it has earthy notes with good dynamism and tension, typical of an excellent pinot noir, the tannins are ripe and fine grained. The champagne from the same vines is another stunning wine, tightly wound, dense and dynamic, floral and mineral, very long and lip-smackingly saline on the finish. Only 240 bottles were produced. Disg. 02/22 - Non dosé.
Guillaume Sergent Wines
LES PRÉS DIEU (2020)
1er Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Les Prés Dieu is sourced from two parcels that are harvested and pressed together: Les Prés in Vrigny, an east-facing vineyard on sandy soils, and Les Vignes Dieu, a south-facing parcel in Coulommes that’s a little chalkier in composition. The wine was vinified entirely in 3-7yo 228ltr barrels to 500ltr demi-muids although it only spent four months in wood before bottling. Malos were completed, and only 18g/l was used for the secondary, low pressure. The fragrant floral fruitiness typical of sandy soils is gracefully balanced and intensely site-expressive, and even in its youth, it demonstrated a fine complexity and detail. This is an exciting wine that has benefited from further bottle ageing. Disgorged 07/22 - Dosage 1g/l.
CHEMIN DES CHAPPES (2020)
Vrigny 1er Cru
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Pinot Meunier
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Pinot Meunier (12% alc.)
Chemin des Chappes comes from vines planted by selection massale in 1972 and 1982 in limestone and sandy soils in Vrigny and exudes tension, energy and class. The white orchard fruit, crushed rock and floral notes are beautifully focused. Aged as Les Prés Dieu this is an especially vibrant, salivating style for a pinot-based champagne, with more breadth and power than the chardonnay and yet all the elements are impeccably balanced. Disgorged 07/22 - Dosage 1g/l.
Emmanuel Brochet Wines
LE MONT BENOIT
Villers-aux-Noeuds 1er Cru
37% Pinot Noir, 33% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay
37% Pinot Noir, 33% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This comes from 40yo vines on a southeast facing hillside of the Mont Benoit in Villers-aux-Noeuds. It is made from a base of 80% 2020 and 20% 2019, aged in new to 12yo barrels for eleven months before resting 'sur lattes'. The malolactic fermentation was completed, the wine feels vivid and vibrant with a briny, oyster-like salivation and rich texture. Disgorged 02/23 - Dosage 2g/l.
LES HAUTS MEUNIERS 2013
Villers-aux-Noeuds 1er Cru
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12% alc.)
This is made from a massal selection of pinot meunier planted in 1962 at a density of 6,000 vines per hectare. Situated at the top of the Mont Benoit, there’s just about 25cm of top soil before reaching a deep layer of chalk imparting the wines with verticality, nerve, and incredible minerality. Vinified in 350ltr barrels, the wines go through their malo naturally and are left undisturbed (no racking or bâtonnage) for a year before bottling and five years ageing in bottle. Another example that turns on its head the perception of pinot meunier as 'the lesser varietal' of champagne’s main trio. This is intensely chalky, built on a bright core of acids and mineral salts, with a multi-dimensional finish. Bravo! Disg. 12/19 - Non Dosé. VLQ.
LES HAUTS CHARDONNAYS 2012
Villers-aux-Noeuds 1er Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
As per Les Hauts Meuniers, this is a selection of old vines planted in 1962 at the top of the slope of the Mont Benoit. It was made exclusively from the coeur de cuvée (the heart of the first pressing which contains the highest quality juice), vinified and aged in 350ltr oak barrels for a year (malo completed), before resting 6 years on the lees in bottle. Emmanuel only achieved half of the usual yields in 2012 (due to successive bouts of frost and mildew) leading to incredible concentration. Tightly coiled, it slowly unfurls from the glass with waves of mirabelle, lemon and pêche de vigne, expressing Villers-aux-Noeuds’ chalky terroir with a classical savoury backbone. It’s racy and subtle, up there with the very best chardonnays of the Montagne de Reims. Disgorged 12/19 - Non Dosé. VLQ.
Bertrand-Delespierre Wines
L’ENFANT DE LA MONTAGNE
1er Cru
45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier
45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Meunier (12% alc.)
This cuvée comes from vineyards in Chamery, Ecueil, Villedommange and Montbré, all 1er Cru villages on the Montagne de Reims. Fermented and aged in stainless steel for about eight months, the wine spent around three years 'sur lattes'. It is based on the 2019 vintage (60%) blended with reserve wines from the previous three vintages. The combination of completed malolactic and low dosage help sustain the fruit beautifully, it also brings bite and precision to the wine. Disgorged 01/24 - Dosage 2g/l.
Bérêche & Fils Wines
BRUT RÉSERVE
35% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay
35% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Based on the 2021 vintage and with initial ageing in a mix of barrels and cuve, this champagne reflects all the terroirs of the domaine and has 35% reserve wine from the previous two vintages. It has dense, clear-cut fruit, good texture and vinosity and, as per Galloni, it is "a model of finesse, the wine’s exceptional balance and overall class stands out most.” Disgorged 12/23 – Dosage 5.5g/l.
RIVE GAUCHE 2020
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
Made from two lieux-dits of low-yielding 45yo vines planted in a mix of clay, sand and limestone soils on a north-facing slope in Mareuil-le-Port. Vinified in 350 and 600ltr barrels and aged for three years in bottle under cork, it already shows a subtle complexity, with a soil-driven depth of flavours and citrusy freshness, buttressing pinot meunier's rich aromas of orchard and stone fruit. Disgorged 11/23 – Dosage 3g/l.
CAMPANIA REMENSIS 2019
60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier
60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
Raphaël vinified this exceptional quality rosé from 40yo vines in the village of Ormes, with its delicate colour coming from the addition of 5% Coteaux Champenois (pinot noir). It was aged 'sur lattes' for three years and disgorged in April 2023 with a dosage of 3.5g/l. It is fragrant and floral with delicate aromas of roses, raspberry and pomegranate; similarly the mouth has succulent flavours with a fresh, vital cut and saline stamp.
RILLY-LA-MONTAGNE 2019
1er Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
0.4ha of north-east facing pinot noir planted in 1980 in the lieu-dit Les Sablons where the soil is shallow and sandy with a lot of chalk. The still wine is aged for ten months in 350ltr oak barrels before second fermentation and further ageing 'sur lattes' under natural cork. This is a brilliant and classy expression of Rilly-la-Montagne's cool terroir, typical of the north-facing villages of the Montagne de Reims. The nose is refined and subtle, the palate is chiseled and 'tout en dentelle', with bright red fruits and gentle smoky notes that enliven a salivating and almost tannic finish. Disgorged 03/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
LES BEAUX REGARDS 2019
Ludes 1er Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
0.45ha of 50yo vines in the parcels of Beaux Regards and Les Clos on mid-slope in Ludes (1er Cru) – the soil is a very fine-grained clay with limestone and flint. The racier side of chardonnay comes through loud and clear in a wine built around density and texture. Lemon confit, apricots and cream, wild flowers and spices are fused together in a deep, expressive and age-worthy champagne. The breadth and power of the Montagne de Reims give the wine much of its personality, it will benefit from a couple of extra years in bottle. Disgorged 01/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
LE CRAN 2016
Ludes 1er Cru
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
The brothers made this champagne from Les Hautes Plantes and St-Jean, two of the finest mid-slope parcels in Ludes, that were planted in 1969, one facing east and the other west. The soil is very chalky in both parcels, and the grapes ripen fully but retain a naturally high acidity that is perfect for long ageing. Slow fermentation and short ageing occurred in young 350ltr barrels, it was then given 78 months bottle age 'sur lattes'. It offers brioche, ripe citrus and honey notes with depth and power that are quite out of the ordinary. In common with other Bérêche champagnes there is an attractive marrowy protein note – a savoury touch of 'gras' that acts as a beautiful counterpoint to the salinity and gentle bitters on the finish. Disgorged 07/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
MAILLY 2017
Grand Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
2,100 bottles were produced from a 0.40 ha plot of 60yo vines (lieu-dit Les Chalois) in a deep, dark brown, clayey and chalky soil. Fermented in fûts, the still wine was aged on its fine lees before being bottled off for a 54 months 'élevage sur lattes' under natural cork. It’s a very harmonious champagne, multi-layered and textural with incisive stone fruits flavours, floral and herbal notes as well as a hint of liquorice. Disgorged 07/22 - Dosage 3.5g/l.
AMBONNAY 2014
Grand Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
The latest addition to the range and one of the final pieces of the jigsaw for the Bérêche brothers. This comes from 0.4ha of 50yo vines in Les Tourets – right next to Ambonnay’s famous lieu-dit Les Crayéres. The deep, iron rich red clay soil imparts the wine with an incredibly fine, velvety touch on the palate. Fermentation and ageing in 350ltr barrels is followed by 54 months in bottle, on the lees and under natural cork, further increasing the soft, cushioned mouthfeel. It has an amazingly stretched and ample texture, a typical generous quality that only the prestigious south-facing slopes of Ambonnay can offer. Gorgeous red fruits and savoury spices linger in the mouth thanks to a distinct and enticing salinity. Disgorged 07/19 - Dosage 3.5g/l. 1,992 bottles produced.
REFLET D’ANTAN
30% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier
30% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier (12% alc.)
This is a very specialist champagne designed to show how complex reserve wines can become with age. Every year a selection of the best age-worthy wines, made from various plots on shallow and chalky soils, is introduced to a 'réserve perpétuelle' (500 and 600ltr barrels) that was started in 1985. In December 2017 two thirds of the solera was bottled off (leaving the balance to be blended with the young wines of the year) and then aged 'sur lattes' for 36 months before disgorgement. There is a crossover with wine from Jura here with subtle and moreish oxidative notes – Reflet D'Antan offers astonishing complexity with notes of dried fruits, green almonds and Manuka honey, while the umami-loaded mouthfeel finishes long with chalky bitters. Disgorged 12/20 - Dosage 6g/l.
Crus Sélectionnés Wines
CÔTE 2005
Avize Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
From the brothers' Crus Sélectionnés project (see profile). 2005 was a superlative vintage, and this champagne was produced from old vines on prime mid-slope in Avize. It was initially cuve aged for eight months, and then given 10.5 years (!!) of bottle age 'sur lattes' before disgorging with 4g/l dosage in December 2016. Restrained and elegant on the nose with floral hints, it has a silky fruit, with notes of fresh hazelnuts, is very pure and long on the finish. Nowadays a unicorn...
Benoît Lahaye Wines
BRUT NATURE
Grand Cru
90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay
90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This comes from Grand Cru rated vines in Bouzy and Ambonnay averaging 30yo. They are planted on brown clayey soils that vary from 40cm to 1.5 meters in depth. This is based on the 2020 vintage with some reserve wines. It was initially aged in 2-5yo barrels and then given two and a half years bottle ageing on the lees before disgorgement in December 2023 without dosage. Very expressive on the nose, the palate has depth and richness balanced with attractive bitters on the finish. A stunning wine from prestigious vineyards representing amazing value for money.
BLANC DE NOIRS (2019)
Bouzy Grand Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This comes from Grand Cru rated vines of 25yo, lieu-dit Cercets where chalk is more present than in the parcels used for the Brut Nature. It was initially aged in 2-5yo barrels before spending some time 'sur lattes'. More structure, depth and power here due to the presence of chalk, with notes of dried fruits, ripe apricot and citrus fruits, the lengthy saline finish features salivating bitters. Disgorged 01/23 - Dosage 4g/l.
ROSÉ DE MACÉRATION (2019)
Bouzy Grand Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Made from 35yo vines, lieu-dit Les Juliennes in Bouzy, the whole bunches macerated for 2.5 days before being pressed. The wine aged 50% in amphora and 50% in 300ltr barrels with completed malos, this has intensely fragrant strawberries and raspberries with a hint of rose on the nose, a seriously vinous and terroir-driven rosé with an incredibly sustained finish – the perfect champagne for versatile food and wine pairings. Disgorged 01/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
VIOLAINE 2017
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Vinified, aged and bottled without sulphur, Violaine comes from parcels on the Tauxières and Bouzy border with shallow clay soils (30-35cm) over a deep chalky bedrock. Quite flat, the windswept vineyards were planted in 1990, and like most of Benoit’s wines, this was fermented and aged in oak for 10 months prior to bottling and ageing 'sur lattes'. Vividly expressive with notes of pears, lemon oil, and exotic fruits, the mousse is fine and gentle (just 22g/l for the second fermentation), there’s incredible energy on the palate and chalky dry extract bringing a tannic dimension to the layered mineral infused finish. Disgorged 02/23.
MILLÉSIME 2017
Bouzy Grand Cru
85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay
85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
The 45yo vines are from the prime Bouzy lieu-dits of Monts de Tauxières and Haut des Argentieres. Fermented in 5yo 225ltr barrels with malolactics completed, the champagne was bottled off under cork without filtration in July 2018. Disgorged in December 2022 with a 4g/l dosage, it shows a tense, vinous depth of red fruits, the texture is silky and explosive with an extraordinary amplitude. It is a classy wine combining power and refinement with an excellent, fine beaded mousse and food-friendly chalky bitters on the finish – quintessentially Bouzy!
JARDIN DE LA GROSSE PIERRE 2018
Bouzy Grand Cru
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay,
Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, Petit Meslier,
Fromenteau, Gros Plant,
Teinturier + others!
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay,
Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, Petit Meslier,
Fromenteau, Gros Plant,
Teinturier + others! (12% alc.)
The vines here are co-planted starting off in 1927 by Benoit’s grandfather (who called an orchard he also planted here La Grosse Pierre), on a south-west facing hillside towards the base of Bouzy near the Chemin de Tauxières. Aged in 3-5yo barrels with just a touch of SO2 added at the press (17mg/l). It's quite a startling champagne – complex, distinct and richly fragrant with savoury, umami notes of green tea and wild herbs, it also has an incredible depth of energetic and expressive fruit. Disgorged 12/22 - Non dosé.
BLANC DE BLANCS
Voipreux 1er Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This is a confidential cuvée coming from a small holding in the village of Voipreux (between Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertus) in the Côte des Blancs. For now Benoît prefers to blend it and will not make this champagne every year. The vines here are 62yo (they have been ploughed by horse since 2010) and planted in shallow soil of clay and limestone with chalk at depth, giving grapes that are always healthy (never any rot) and ripe. It is made of equal parts 2014 and 2015 (the next version will be 16/17), aged in barrels for two years and one year respectively before being assembled and bottled off, then disgorged in late 2018 with zero dosage. No sulphur has been used at any stage. It is a notably spicy, dense, ripe champagne imbued with a rare sense of energy and vigour.
CÔTEAUX CHAMPENOIS 2019
Bouzy Rouge
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.8% alc.)
Grown in three of Lahaye’s oldest parcels (50yo) planted on mid-slope in the 'coeur de terroir', this floral, structured and mineral Bouzy Grand Cru is, as per Peter Liem, "not only one of the best examples of Bouzy Rouge but also one of the best still red wines in all Champagne." Destemmed by hand using a perforated wooden plank, the intact berries ferment in a gas-filled amphora for a month before pressing, and the wine is then aged in old 228ltr barrels for a year before bottling with the addition of 20mg of sulphur. It has a vibrant spicy nose, beautiful dynamic on the palate, and a distinct juicy peppery quality.
Mouzon-Leroux Wines
L’ATAVIQUE
Verzy Grand Cru
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
A blend collected from all their holdings on the three hillsides of Verzy, this is the domaine’s principal cuvée. It’s a blend of 55% 2019 and 45% 2018/17. It has a pale bright gold colour, delicate bubbles, a most attractive nose and palate, with lifted, stylish fruit and a good wisp of salinity on the finish. A real crowd-pleaser. Disg. 01/22 - Non dosé.
L’ASCENDANT
Verzy Grand Cru
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This comes from a solera system of demi-muids of L’Atavique first started off in 2010 – this bottling comprises 50% 2018 and 50% 2010 to 2017 wines. 50% of the solera is pulled off/renewed every year, bottled off for second fermentation and then aged for around four years 'sur lattes'. As expected, there is a touch more mid-gold colour here, and we’re now in the forest aromatically – according to Seb. It displays the domaine’s trademark purity of juice, but it’s more serious, gras and vinous than L’Atavique, less on the fruit, more on the earth and mineral, sapid and saline on a long and complex finish. Disg. 03/23 - Dosage 1.5g/l.
L’ANGÉLIQUE 2017
Verzy Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
The vines here are planted in a limestone-clay soil, overlying chalk on the first hillside to the south-east of the village. It’s a light soil that’s perfect for growing chardonnay, the name of the cuvée pointing to its character, pure, light and ethereal per Seb. He selected the best 500ltr barrels of still chardonnay 2016, second fermentation occurred and Seb gave it more than four years bottle age under cap (preferring the extra tension provided under cap to cork ageing). A beautiful pale-gold colour, the fruit is ripe but racy, extremely fine-tuned and elegant, with truffle notes, and a notable lift on the sustained, mineral-imbued finish. Disg. 10/22 - Non dosé.
Vadin-Plateau Wines
RENAISSANCE
Cumières 1er Cru
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12% alc.)
A champagne made from 40yo vines in Cumières. 80% 2021 vintage with 20% of reserve wines from 2017 to 2020, it was cuve aged with malos naturally not occurring, and was neither fined nor filtered. The champagne has a fine bead (just 22 g/l sugar for the fermentation in bottle), a beautiful floral, mineral nose, excellent depth and weight of attractive red fruits on the palate. Disgorged 09/23 - Non dosé.
BOIS DES JOTS 2014
Cumières 1er Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Only 600bts produced from 60yo vines in the 0.5ha lieu-dit of Bois des Jots – deep clay soils overlying limestone on a south-facing hillside. Here the yields average a very low 25hh which gives the wine a natural density, complexity and incredible length on the finish. Aged 70% in cement eggs, with the balance in stainless steel and old barrels, no malos, bottle-aged under cork and disgorged with zero dosage in January 2018, this champagne is pretty special and represents outstanding value for money.
Lamiable Wines
GRAND CRU
Souffle d'Étoiles
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Stylish, racy champagne with a fresh floral fruitiness and insistent mineral notes from the grand cru village of Tours-sur-Marne, located at the eastern end of the Vallée de la Marne and just below Bouzy. Based on the 2020 vintage (60%) and blended with wine from a perpetual reserve. Cuve aged with malolactic completed, it was disgorged in November 2023 with a 4.5g/l dosage. Great value for money.
GRAND CRU ROSÉ
Éclat d'Étoiles
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This is a real crowd-pleasing style, with salmon pink colour created by an assemblage of 10% pinot noir red wine. Delicate red fruits on the nose and palate balanced by good salinity on the finish. Made from the 2021 vintage with 40% of reserve wines. Ophélie Lamiable kindly agreed to a lower dosage level of 3.4 g/l for Vine Trail – we feel it perfectly suits the champagne’s weight, fruit and balance. Disgorged 10/23.
Laherte Frères Wines
ULTRADITION
60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir
60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
This is a subtle amalgam of the domaine’s holdings. Based on the 2020 vintage (60%) and reserve wines (40%), Ultradition was initially aged both in cuve and oak (foudres and fûts 3-15yo) – 60% of the malos were completed. It was given 22 months bottle age and disgorged with 6.5g/l dosage in November 2022. On the nose this gives complex notes of citrus zest, fresh baked bread, chalky tones and floral aromas typical of a cuvée based around pinot meunier. There are good depth of juicy berries with saline notes on the palate, a supple texture and refreshing finish. A serious and complex wine for the price, perfect for the apéritif, it will also compliment many types of food.
BLANC DE BLANCS
Brut Nature
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Aurélien makes this crowd-pleaser blanc de blancs from mid-slope vineyards in Chavot and Epernay where the vines average 35yo. 50% of 2021 still wine (aged in a mix of foudres and barrels with no malos) is blended with 50% barrel-aged reserve wines – it helps give an extra richness and flesh to the wine with a good weight of fruit on the palate. There is a nice play between a marrowy, protein quality, a structure that comes from the clayey and chalky soils, and good tension. Disgorged 07/23 - Non dosé.
ROSÉ DE MEUNIER
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
This is made from 25-40yo vines planted in limestone clay soil and Aurélien blends equal parts of 2020 and 2019 – with 60% white wine, 30% rosé de macération and 10% red wine, all from meunier grapes. It is a beautiful rosé with incredibly attractive delicate red fruits, a touch of pepper and a saline freshness on the finish. As well as being excellent on its own, its structure (thanks to the perfectly judged blend) makes it extremely versatile with food. A strong effort from Aurélien who has also designed beautiful, colourful and eye-catching labels. Disg. 01/23 - Dosage 2.5g/l.
LES VIGNES D’AUTREFOIS 2018
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
'Les Vignes d'Autrefois' refers to the venerable age of the vines with some ungrafted – the Laherte family works a few parcels planted between 1947 and 1953 in the villages of Chavot and Mancy. And although this is considered a pure meunier wine, some chardonnay, pinot noir and fromenteau are found through the plots. The still wine aged in 4-12yo barrels before being bottled off (with malos not completed). Following ageing 'sur lattes', the bottles were disgorged by hand in November 2021 with a 2g/l dosage. Very complex on the nose rather than varietal and fruit-driven, it has sculpted, incisive citrus and floral notes on the palate, sustained gorgeous fruit and marked salivation on a long finish.
EMPREINTES 2017
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
This cuvée is designed to exhibit just how good the terroir of Chavot can be. Here the pinot noir is planted in rich clay, and the 55yo chardonnay in chalk. The still wine was originally aged in 3-5yo barrels with no malos; the fruit is delicious showing tangerine, papaya and hints of ginger, all the time beautifully underlined by a striking mineral quality, with outstanding length and energy. Disgorged 10/22 - Dosage 4g/l.
LES GRANDES CRAYÈRES 2017
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Aurélien selected two chalky (crayères) west-facing parcels (40 and 60yo) where the particularly shallow topsoil (20cm) lies over a deep strata of Campanian limestone (Cretaceous period as in the Côte des Blancs). The absence of malo emphasises the wine’s chiselled and 'aérien' qualities, it’s fine and poised on the palate with impressive balance, racy acids, and fine chalk-infused bitters that drive a long sapid finish. Disgorged 12/20 - Dosage 4g/l.
LES 7
Brut Nature
18% Pinot Meunier, 18% Chardonnay, 17% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 14% Pinot Noir, 10% Fromenteau, 8% Arbanne
18% Pinot Meunier, 18% Chardonnay, 17% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 14% Pinot Noir, 10% Fromenteau, 8% Arbanne (12.5% alc.)
The idea here was not only combining many indigenous varieties, but also many different vintages – a unique champagne made from a solera system (or perpetual reserve) started in 2005 of seven older Burgundy barrels from which reserve wines are pulled off annually, they are bottled with wines of the year and represent 40% of the blend. The young vines here were co-planted by Thierry Laherte in 2002 and are tended biodynamically, the grapes are picked and pressed together. The current bottling is based on the 2015 vintage (60%), it is a complex and harmonious champagne, with a mix of chalky stone and truffle on the nose, subtle, stretched and restrained with savoury, earthy notes on the finish – a unique glimpse in Champagne's past and future. Disgorged 02/18 - Non dosé.
Aurélien Suenen Wines
OIRY
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Vines averaging 45yo planted in the chalky soils of Oiry (Grand Cru village). Vinified and aged in 'cuve inox' and 3-5yo barrels (with malos completed) this is based on 2019 with 45% reserve wines from 2013 to 2018. Given more than two years 'sur lattes' under cap, it has the purity and delicacy you would expect of fine blanc de blancs, a delicious expression of stone fruits and stewed Sicilian lemons with the limestone-dominant terroir impacting notable length and structure. Disgorged 03/23 - Dosage 4g/l.
C+C
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
The second of Aurélien’s specific terroir NV champagnes comes from 40yo vines on north-west, west, and south-east facing hillsides in Cramant and Chouilly where the soils are deeper compared to Oiry with silty clay over chalk – this adds flesh to the wines. Based on the 2019 vintage with 50% of reserve wines from 2013 to 2018; it was bottled in summer 2020 for the second fermentation and ageing 'sur lattes'. This is a tightly wound champagne, with more pronounced structure and texture as well as a razor-like cut of acidity. Very attractive umami flavours on the finish. Disgorged 03/23 - Dosage 4g/l.
LA COCLUETTE 2016
Oiry Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Suenen's vines, in the lieu-dit La Cocluette, were planted in 1925 on thin silty-clay soils over a Campanian limestone bedrock. Located towards the top of a gentle hill with 80% of the vines facing north and the other 20% facing south. Vinification and élevage take place in concrete eggs (55%) and demi-muids (45%), bottling occurred in summer 2017 before years of ageing 'sur lattes'. There’s a cool, intensely citric and 'aérien' feel running through the wine, a vertical backbone with pinpoint precision on the palate, and beautiful 'amers' driving the finish. Disgorged 06/22 - Dosage 2g/l.
LES ROBARTS 2016
Cramant Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Perched on a 'haut de coteau' at 168m, right on the border between Cramant and Avize – where the clay is richer and more compact than in Oiry – the vineyard sits on the ubiquitous chalky Campanian limestone. The vines are 40yo on average (planted from 1951 to 2005) and most of them face due south. Vinified in one 14hl foudre, the wine was then bottled in summer 2017 and spent almost 5 years resting on its lees before disgorgement. This is slightly larger and richer than the vertical Cocluette, with more breadth, a touch of 'gras', and a strong terroir imprint. Notable bitters and mineral salts are prominent on the finish, with an umami-rich salivation, the sign of an outstanding terroir (and a top vigneron!). Disgorged 06/22 - Dosage 3g/l.
LE MONT-AIGU 2016
Chouilly Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Le Mont-Aigu is a steep south-facing vineyard in Chouilly on poor chalky-white soils reflecting sunlight, a unique situation in this predominantly north-facing village that benefits from a warm micro-climate due to the proximity of the Marne river. Aurélien’s 0.25ha of 1978 vines are affected by cournoué (fan leaf disease), which doesn’t harm the vines but considerably reduces yields and emphasises further this site’s singular 'solaire' situation. Vinified and aged in one 600ltr demi-muid, it went through extensive ageing 'sur lattes' as per the other single vineyard bottlings. Exuberant and exotic, it’s rich on the attack with a touch of 'beurre noisette' and a nice pillowy mouthfeel, it has concentration and vibrancy at its core, balanced by racy acids and noble chalky bitters. Completely unique and a must-have for all champagne geeks out there. Disgorged 07/22 - Dosage 3g/l.
LA GRANDE VIGNE 2014
Montigny-sur-Vesle
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12% alc.)
La Grande Vigne in the Vallée de La Vesle is a NW-facing 0.2ha plot of 60yo vines, a qualitative terroir in the Massif de Saint-Thierry where ungrafted pinot meunier grow on deep Thanetian sand – a type of soil often found in both the Marne and Vesle valleys and particularly well-suited to pinot meunier. Fermentation and 9 months ageing in one 500ltr pièce before bottling (neither fined nor filtered) for an extensive 'élevage sur lattes'. A round, subtle and vibrant mouthfeel with nuanced and complex aromatics, this is built around umami and salivating bitters with notable length of flavours on the finish – another stunning wine from Aurélien. Disgorged 01/21 - Dosage 1g/l.
Pascal Agrapart Wines
LES 7 CRUS
90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir
90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This comes from vines in seven villages, including the Grands Crus of Avize, Cramant, Oiry and Oger. Based on the 2021 vintage (with some reserve wines) and given over two years 'sur lattes', the dosage of 6g/l is well-judged, helping to emphasize its driving fruitiness and minerality. It is a perfect example of how a good NV champagne balances character and authenticity with sheer, delicious drinkability. Disgorged 10/23.
TERROIRS
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
A blend of the 2018 and 2019 vintages, made exclusively from 25-40yo vines on prime plots in the Grands Cru villages of Avize (50%), Cramant, Oger and Oiry. Fabulous colour with more depth than Les 7 Crus, it is much finer and deeper, a more structured champagne aged for 36 months 'sur lattes'. Buttery notes and fresh almond on the nose with hints of menthol and liquorice on the palate. Disgorged 05/23 - Dosage 5g/l.
COMPLANTÉE
Avize Grand Cru
25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 15% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne
25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 15% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne (12% alc.)
Pascal co-planted 0.25ha of vines in 2003 in the lieu-dit Fosse à Bull in Avize. Aside promoting biodiversity, he aimed at showing that Terroir dominates grape varieties. Based on 2021 vintage, it was aged in demi-muids and then given around a couple of years in bottle before disgorgement. Slightly peppery on the nose, with citrus fruits and nuts on the palate, with a subtle chalkiness and gentle bitters that adds to the intrigue of a long finish. As of today, Pascal doesn’t think that tasting clearly indicates the specific character of any of the varieties, it’s all about terroir! Disgorged 10/23 - Dosage 5g/l.
MINÉRAL 2017
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Made from two different parcels, Champbouton in Avize GC and Les Bionnes in Cramant GC, where the vines get straight into the chalky bedrock (no topsoil) characterised by the ubiquitous Cretaceous limestone. Minéral has a beautiful pale gold colour and is taut and reticent on the nose with a pronounced chalky minerality cosseting the fruit. On the palate it is slightly salty with a hint of iodine (and becomes truffley with ageing), racy and stylish with a poise and fruit reminiscent of grand cru Chablis. Disgorged 10/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
AVIZOISE 2017
Avize Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This outstanding champagne comes from 60yo vines in the lieux-dits of Les Robarts and Les Gros Yeux on the Avize hillside, where there is a thin layer of clay over the chalk. The fermentation in bottle is carried out under natural cork rather than capsule, with a minimum of five years on lees. There is a notable step up in quality with Avizoise which has a dense, rich style and complex flavours. On the nose, you can smell mangoes and exotic fruits, which follow through on the palate, where ripe peaches show, with toasty, grilled notes (typical of a champagne aged under cork) and hints of truffle and mushroom too. Disgorged 10/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
VÉNUS 2017
Avize Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The 55yo vines are planted on a lower slope in Avize called La Fosse Aux Pourceaux. The soil here is light and airy, not compacted at all since no machines are used in this vineyard, just worked by foot and with a horse called Vénus. The vines are close to the chalk for the upper two-thirds of the coteau and then on deeper clay over chalk at the bottom. Like the Avizoise, this has been aged 'sur lattes' under cork for five years. By comparison, it is a tauter, purer style, with crystalline precision. On the nose, there are brioche and truffle notes, tethered by a chalky, iodine mineral quality. It is finely hued and harmonious on the palate with a silky texture and long finish. Disgorged 05/23 - Non dosé.
EXPÉRIENCE 2017
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
"The ultimate challenge of making Champagne nature", as the Agraparts put it. Old vines from Avize make the still wine that is aged in demi-muids. The 'liqueur de tirage' (second fermentation) is unfermented grape juice from the following 2018 harvest. So as Pascal says, "Expérience is made 100% from grapes, with natural yeasts for both the first and second fermentations, zero dosage and only a pinch of sulphur added". Pascal started experimenting with this cuvée in 2002, and the first commercial release was 2007 – it’s very tricky to make therefore not produced every year. The wine is juicy and grapey, with a delicate mousse and an unforced feel to it. Incredibly multi-layered and textural, it has complex flavours of pear, citrus fruits and sweet herbs, attractive bitters and marked spiciness on a sustained salty finish. Disgorged 08/22.
Jacques Lassaigne Wines
LES VIGNES DE MONTGUEUX
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Comprising fruit from eight different terroirs on the hill of Montgueux, LVDM is based on a blend of 2021, 2020 and 2019 vintages as well as older reserve wines. Emmanuel is forever restless in his search for improvements, and this cuvée is more complex and vinous than ever given greater use of reserve wines. This has ripe citron fruit with exotic notes, lovely salivation with great play on the palate and terrific texture. Just 20g/l for the secondary fermentation, it has a very fine gentle bubble. A pinch of SO2 at press only. Zero dosage although Manu prefers to label it as Extra Brut (like Le Cotet). Disgorged 02/24.
LE COTET
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This lieu-dit cuvée comes from 0.6ha of 45yo vines. It’s a blend of about 75% 2016, 15% of oak aged 2015 and 10% 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2008, 2006, 2004 and 2002 finished bottles of le Cotet that Emmanuel has opened up and 'remis en cercle'. It has a very pure, bracing fruit (making for a superb apéritif) mixed with hints of honeysuckle, straw and hazelnut, an amazing complexity from the older wines. Disgorged 09/20 - Non dosé. VLQ.
MILLÉSIME 2010
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This is a blend of old vines in Lassaigne’s three top vineyards of Les Paluets (40%), Le Cotet (40%) and La Grande Côte (20%). It is always vinified 100% in stainless steel which Emmanuel feels captures the purest expression of the terroirs. This has excellent balance with peach, stewed lemon and mango fragrantly ample and inviting, with an intense, detailed stony chalkiness (from Le Cotet). As this ages it takes on a Meursault character, a stunning wine finely showcasing the power of Montgueux. Disgorged 09/19 - Non dosé. VLQ.
LA COLLINE INSPIRÉE
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
The ‘Inspired Hill’ is the one main cuvée produced by Manu that is vinified and aged in oak, in this instance from 15 x 228ltr Burgundy and 1 x 500ltr older barrels. It is a blend of vintages, from 2013 (48%), 2012 (35%) and 2011 (17%). The grapes come mainly from the lieux-dits Haut Revers du Chutat and Grand Côte (plus five other plots across the hill of Montgueux). It was bottled off in May 2015 and disgorged 'a la volée' (by hand) without dosage in May 2018. It has perfectly integrated the oak, the fruit mixes stewed lemons, tropical fruit and hazelnut, it is rich and textural, perfectly balanced by a lovely saline cut on the finish. VLQ.
CLOS SAINTE-SOPHIE 2013
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Clos Sainte Sophie is one of the 13 official Clos in the whole of Champagne (think Clos du Mesnil, Clos des Goisses etc), and the only one located in the Aube. Enclosed by walls and a towering iron gate, it reached such a level of fame towards the end of the 19th century (long before Montgueux was officially included in the appellation) that in 1886 two Japanese gardeners were sent to study the Clos. A hundred cuttings were taken from the 20 varieties planted at the time, and they were used to plant the first vitis vinifera vineyard on Mount Fuji. "A befitting story for the best vineyard in Montgueux" as Manu puts it. There’s almost no topsoil here so the roots plunge deep into the Cretaceous chalk. Manu selected the oldest parcels of chardonnay (planted in 1968 and 1973), and chose to vinify them in 500ltr barrels previously used to age Burgundy, Jura, and even Cognac. There is such strength, concentration and energy in this wine that the élevage is barely noticeable. It is deep and structured, tightly coiled, with impressive dry extract and a tannic-like chalkiness. It displays Mongueux’s typical exotic perfume in a restrained manner, with intense iodine notes, it’ll be very interesting to follow this wine over the next decade. Disgorged 02/20 - Non dosé. VLQ.
SOPRANO, ALTO, TENOR
Acte IV Scènes 1, 2, 3
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Manu makes a few one-off wines privileging experiment and an off-the-beaten-track spirit, these special bottlings are labeled as acts and scenes. Soprano, Alto and Tenor are part of Acte IV, a trio of cuvées differentiated by a single detail, the length of time they spent in barrels before bottling. Harvest took place on 17 September 2012 in La Grande Côte, a south-east facing plot that sits just below Le Haut Revers du Chutat. Planted in 1963, the vines sit on a very shallow layer of silty clay over chalk, soaking up the sun from dawn till dusk. The grapes were loaded into a single Coquard press and the juice transferred into three 500ltr barrels. The first barrel was bottled after 8 months ageing on the lees (Soprano), the second one after 20 months (Alto), and the third one after 32 months (Tenor), and all three spent the best part of five years resting in bottle 'sur lattes' before disgorgement without dosage. It will be fascinating to see how these three wines evolve over time, and whether they will become more alike as time passes by. An amazing opportunity to delve deep into Montgueux and better understand the impact of élevage on terroir expression. Soprano (Scène 1) – bottled 05/13, disgorged 02/18. Alto (Scène 2) – bottled 05/14, disgorged 02/19. Tenor (Scène 3) – bottled 05/15, disgorged 02/20.
COTEAUX CHAMPENOIS 2017
Haut Revers du Chutat
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This exceptional still wine is only made in limited quantities in riper vintages (2010, 2015 were the previous versions) when the juice naturally hits an alcohol level (12.2%) that is too high to produce champagne. Made from vines planted in 1968 at the top of a south facing limestone slope, aged in six older fûts and a 500ltr barrel for 22 months, the balance of this wine is exemplary, putting many fine Côte de Beaune wines to shame. It shows exotic ripe fruits cut through with a vein of acidity and an electrifying stamp of saline minerals. Very low sulphur. For drinking now to 2027.
Clandestin Wines
BORÉAL (2022)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
The grapes come from 15-35yo vines in four different plots around Landreville – they’re all planted on north-facing coteaux, hence the name Boréal. The parcels are located mid-slope in the same strata of Kimmeridgian limestone (see cross-section on profile). The still wine was aged in older barrels before being bottled off and kept 15 months 'sur lattes'. It offers wild strawberry fruit on the nose, good balance with zesty freshness and salivating bitters on the palate; the finish is savoury and thirst-quenching. Disgorged 04/25 - Non dosé.
AUSTRAL (2022)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
As opposed to Boréal, the cuvée Austral comes from south-facing plots (seven in total). The vines are also planted mid-slope in Kimmeridgian marls, and the wine is made in the same way. As expected, it is a deeper and multi-layered champagne (compared to Boréal) with a rich and food-friendly mouthfeel. Disgorged 04/25 - Non dosé.
LES PASSAGERS (2022)
Fiole
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The label Les Passagers is for ephemeral wines – from single vineyards in expressive terroirs, sourced only as one-offs or over a few vintages. Fiole is a lieu-dit in the village of Ville-sur-Arce, on a north-facing slope. The vines sit atop a coteau and are planted in the Kimmeridgian ‘Superieur’ (see cross-section on profile). The wine is taut and saline, with a textured, nuanced profile and aromas of fresh almonds. Disgorged 04/25 - Non dosé.
LES PASSAGERS (2022)
Haut de Val Barmont
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Like the cuvée Fiole, the Haut de Val Barmont parcel is located along the Arce river in Ville-sur-Arce. The vines are NW-facing and planted in a plateau of Porlandian limestone. This is rustic and structured, with limestone-induced bitters; the finish is extremely long and complex.
LES GRANDES LIGNES (2020)
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This comes from the south-facing lieu-dit of Sorbée in Buxières-sur-Arce, where the limestone is Portlandian, considered one of the finest terroirs in the area. This champagne has amazing depth and finesse, with tense citrus fruits tethered by notable chalky salinity on the finish. Disgorged 11/23 - Non dosé.
Vouette et Sorbée Wines
BLANC D’ARGILE (2018)
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This comes from low-yielding vines in the lieu-dit Biaune, a cool parcel planted alongside the forest on Kimmeridgian soil. The chardonnay vines are massal selections from Selosse’s Avize and Dauvissat's Chablis GC vineyards. Oak aged in 4-10yo 500/600ltr barrels before bottling for 'élevage sur lattes', it is richer, deeper and more complex than many blanc de blancs but still with tightly wound acidity and salivating minerals – like a top Chablis GC with fine bubbles. Disgorged 11/20 - Non dosé.
FIDÈLE (2020)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
The vines for this brilliant champagne are planted in the lieu-dit of Vouette (see profile), on a Kimmeridgian limestone slope facing due south. It offers a rich gold colour, typical of low yielding pinot noir, and is vinous on the palate with mineral vitality. Given a little time in the glass, and served ideally at 12°C, it evolves constantly, revealing flavours layer after layer. Disgorged 10/22 - Non dosé.
TEXTURES (2019)
100% Pinot Blanc
100% Pinot Blanc (12% alc.)
Following advice from Croatian and Italian friends, Bertrand decided to experiment skin-maceration vinifying in a buried Georgian qvevri (pinot blanc) and a couple of Italian dolia (chardonnay). This pinot blanc is planted on a deep limestone-rich clay, an extremely qualitative plot owned by his brother. The ten months long maceration in qvevri enhance flavours from a rather discreet variety, as well as creating a savoury, voluptuous and multi-layered mouthfeel. A stunning and iconic wine. Disgorged 11/21 - Non dosé.
SAIGNÉE DE SORBÉE (2019)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Sorbée sits on Portlandian limestone, a type of soil which represents less than 1% of the appellation, and was planted with an old massal selection from Domaine Lafarge in Volnay (this is a rare wine in many ways!). Bertrand explains, "as children we used to drink my grandmother's red wine from the Sorbée vineyard, which was traditionally planted with gamay – it was 10% alcohol and we would drink it in summer mixed with water. I am just copying the elders and paying tribute to my family." Whole-cluster pinot noir grapes go through semi-carbonic maceration before bleeding (saignée) occurs, it makes for a deep, red-fruited, peppery champagne. "Une tisane de pinots noirs", as Bertrand would say, reminiscent of a fine Rosé des Riceys. Disgorged 11/21 - Non dosé.
EXTRAIT 2008
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
A selection of a few of Bertrand’s favourite barrels of chardonnay and pinot noir, usually encompassing the different terroirs and soils of the domaine, and given long bottle age 'sur lattes' (nine years for the 2008!) before disgorging. This is a vinous and extremely complex champagne with lingering sherry-like tertiary flavours, a wine with endless possibilities when it comes to food matching.
Roses de Jeanne, Cédric Bouchard Wines
LES URSULES 2019
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
This is Cédric’s first and most emblematic cuvée which inspired the name Roses de Jeanne (see profile) – it comes from a parcel beside his parents’ house, located in the village of Celles-sur-Ource on the left bank of the Ource river. Relatively flat with a slight tilt to the north, the vines were planted in 1974 by Bouchard senior in the characteristic Kimmeridgian limestone soils of the Côte des Bar. According to Cédric, it has always given the most harmonious champagne in the range. Indeed, this is a wine of pure class with an exceptional balance between ripe fruit and refreshing acidity, complex flavours, and a long, persistent finish. Disgorged 04/23 - Non dosé.
CREUX D’ENFER 2020
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
This is one of Celles-sur-Ource’s finest terroirs on the left bank of the Ource river. Only a few minutes away from Les Ursules, the plot is located above the village on a relatively steep W/NW-facing slope surrounded by forest. The vines were planted in 1990/91 by Cédric’s father and uncle using a massal selection from Les Ursules. The shallow clay topsoil is extremely rocky, littered with limestone scree bringing density to the grapes and finished wines. To decide on the optimum harvest date, Cédric regularly tastes the grapes and chews on the stems – he would only make his 'rosé de macération' if both skin and stem are fully ripe. The whole bunches are gently foot trodden in an open vat, and skin contact lasts for 48 hours. Only the free run juice pours out for fermentation and ageing in cuve. Historically, Cédric has made this deep and multi-layered wine from a mere three rows of vines – hence the extreme scarcity – and even though he has taken over the adjacent 1ha from his cousin in 2021 (see profile), he’s decided to stick to these three rows to make his rosé in the future. Another cuvée Creux d’Enfer has been added to the range from the 2021 vintage, although it is made from directly pressed grapes. Disgorged 04/24 - Non dosé.
PRESLE 2019
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Cédric is convinced that co-planting different cuttings of vines brings complexity to the finished wine. He took this philosophy to a new level here: in 2007 he planted no less than ten different massal selections of pinot fin (from different growers in Gevrey-Chambertin) on multiple rootstocks – 0.25ha made of 15 rows totalling 3,000 vines so a very high density of 12,000 vines per ha. The plot is located on a W/NW-facing slope on the left bank of the Ource river. Initially, he planned to make a red Coteaux Champenois, but given the characteristics and quality of the juice, he quickly changed his mind. Sleek and perfumed with very good bitters and texture, the cuvée Presle is notably delicate and nuanced. Of note, 2020 was the last vintage produced (see profile). Disgorged 04/23 - Non dosé.
LA BOLORÉE 2019
100% Pinot Blanc
100% Pinot Blanc (12.5% alc.)
La Bolorée is an exceptional and unique terroir on the right bank of the river between Celles-sur-Ource and Landreville. The vineyard lies due south on the upper part of a dazzling hillside planted in 1960 with the ancient strain 'pinot blanc vrai'. The bedrock here is the rarer, harder, and younger Portlandian limestone – compared to the ubiquitous Kimmeridgian found in the Côte des Bar, both part of the Jurassic period. Above, the complex topsoil is made of 60cm of sandy clay overlying a vein of chalk (extremely rare in this part of Champagne). The first wine was made in 2005 from 0.21ha, and it has since become Cédric’s favourite cuvée – excitingly, he acquired the rest of the 1960 plot in the heart of La Bolorée in 2024. He now owns 0.63ha. There is a slightly herbal, green oolong note on the nose, a peppery hint on the attack, and the fine herbal notes intensify on the finish with salivating bitters reminiscent of ripe pear skin. It is subtle and yet powerful with an expansive texture framed by a mineral structure. Racy and energetic, it’s very long and extremely savoury; one of the finest and most distinctive champagnes out there! Disgorged 04/23 - Non dosé.
LA HAUTE LEMBLÉ 2019
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This is the only chardonnay champagne made at Roses de Jeanne. Cédric planted this tiny 0.11ha plot in 2002 with different massal selections taken from five growers in Meursault. The south-facing vineyard sits on a slope that descends gently towards the Ource River; the soil is made of 50cm Kimmeridgian marls over the limestone bedrock. Ripe, dense and tightly wound, this feels very close to the grape, with notable energy, vigour, and a lingering finish. Disgorged 04/23 - Non dosé.
VAL VILAINE 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Cédric’s plot is in the village of Polisy, a 5-10 minute drive from Celles-sur-Ource, where the vineyards are shaped and influenced by the Seine river – the Ource flows into the Seine to the north of both villages. Made from 1.45ha of 35-40yo vines, this wine has excellent weight and balance. It exudes delicate fragrances of flowers, red berries and plums with a mineral imprint from the calcareous-clay soil. Val Vilaine is always open and enjoyable in its youth compared to the other cuvées, although ageing suits it well too. This is the only wine in the range that remains one year 'sur lattes', as opposed to three years for the others (see profile). Disgorged 04/24 - Non dosé.
RDJ N°02
100% ??
100% ?? (12.5% alc.)
Cédric would not share any information for the RDJ bottlings, except that they are top wines made with love. He explains, "the aim is to be 'seul face au vin': intimately engaged with the wine, meditating on its intrinsic qualities, detached from any biased preconceptions, and hopefully experiencing a moment of bliss and happiness!". Cédric recommends sitting in a rocking chair for this exercise.
Ruppert-Leroy Wines
LES COGNAUX (2020)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
0.70ha vineyard high up in the hills, a two metres deep grey marl soil (overlying limestone) with tiny stones as well as cockles and oyster shells weathering out. The vines are between 15-30yo, S/SE facing, de-budded and ploughed to give low yields of ripe grapes. Aged in 2-8yo demi-muids (plus a few 228ltr), the fruit shows wild strawberry and plums, is silky yet chiselled and precise with a long mineral-driven finish. Béné and Manu comment that this champagne always needs the longest bottle ageing to reveal its qualities to the full. No sulphur. Disgorged 10/22 - Non dosé.
MARTIN FONTAINE (2019)
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This blanc de blancs comes from high altitude (380m), the essentially south facing 0.55ha plot has limestone outcropping and fossils weathering out on the surface. The soil here is deeper (around 1m) than Fosse Grely and the yields are usually 20% higher. The still wine was aged in older barrels for eight months before being bottled off. Malos were completed as per usual, no sulphur was added at any stage, no dosage either. This champagne is exquisitely balanced, neither too light nor too rich, with the oak very well integrated, and its intense salinity clearly reflects the limestone terroir. Disgorged 05/22.
FOSSE GRELY (2020)
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
The lieu-dit of La Fosse Grely (altitude 260m) was where Bénédicte’s father first planted vines back in the 1980s. Surrounded by forest where fauna and flora thrive, the vines here are on a S/SW facing slope in a thin layer (40cm) of red clay with lots of little stones and thick compacted limestone beneath. Aged for nine months in fûts and demi-muids, and then for 20 months 'sur lattes', like all of the Ruppert-Leroy champagnes there is a beautiful tension and feeling of controlled energy. Hints of black pepper on the nose, with citrus fruits, peach, biscuits and nuts, subtle bitters on the palate, so long and so complex. No sulphur. Disgorged 10/22 - Non dosé.
PAPILLON (2020)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This also comes from the lieu-dit La Fosse Grely – Gérard Ruppert's (Béné’s father) original plantation. This cuvée is made from 35 to 40yo vines of pinot noir, they were planted with an old massal selection and yield an extremely qualitative juice. The south to southwest facing rocky slope is surrounded by forest in a place where 30 species of butterflies (papillon) have been recorded. Vinified the same way as Fosse Grely, there is a similar tension and energy but with extra richness. It is fruit-forward with a creamy texture, ripe peach and zesty blood orange flavours, long and complex with food-friendly bitters. No sulphur. Disgorged 10/22 - Non dosé.
11,12,13…
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
11, 12, 13... is a 'réserve perpétuelle' started in 2011 using grapes from the domaine's different plots. The current bottling is made of all vintages from 2011 to 2021. After an initial élevage in oak, the still wine of the year (2021) is added to the reserve wines, the blend is kept in cuve to harmonise before being bottled off – the wine spends 18 to 20 months in bottle on lees before disgorgement . Oxidative Jura-like notes on the nose, rhubarb, pepper and sweet spices on the palate, this is a perfect mix of old and young wines with enough lift for a lengthy mineral infused finish. No sulphur and non dosé. Disgorged 10/23.
ROSÉ (2015)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Emmanuel and Bénédicte carried out a four days maceration of whole bunches to make this vinous and food-friendly rosé. Aged in cuve for nine months it is deep and structured, reminiscent of a light red Coteaux Champenois, and it offers flavours of stewed cherries, blood orange, with cinnamon and pepper hints. No sulphur. Zero dosage. VLQ.
Jean-Claude Rateau Wines
HAUTES-CÔTES DE BEAUNE 2020
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
30yo vines on the Hautes-Côtes limestone plateau that give a ripe, floral example of the variety. This is very finely chiselled with a hint of green tea. Vinified and aged in older barrels for six months.
BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2012
Les Coucherias
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The vineyard, once a quarry that supplied stone for Les Hospices de Beaune, is completely protected on all sides, and tilts slightly south, with a subsoil of quarry debris. The roots grow deep and bring a coolness and minerality to the warm fruit. A rich, complex and layered wine of lovely balance.
BEAUNE 2016
Cuvée Ronde
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This is an assemblage of Jean-Claude’s best lieux-dits in Beaune – Clos des Mariages, Les Prévoles, Les Bons Feuvres, and Les Beaux Fourgets – which he normally bottles individually but couldn’t in 2016 due to low yields. Cuvée Ronde is delicious, with sappy wild strawberry and red berry fruits, and a lifted, fresh, cool-toned succulent finish. Not a bruiser, there’s loads of charm and detail here. Old-fashioned in the best sense and a vibrant expression.
BEAUNE 2021
Les Beaux et Bons
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Jean-Claude’s Les Beaux et Bons comes from two tiny vineyards running into each other – Les Bons Feuvres where there is an iron-rich soil and Les Beaux Fougets with fine clay soil. The 25yo vines planted at 10,000 vines/ha give a very elegant wine (destalked 80%), with a soaring perfume, mineral backbone and fine-grained tannins.
BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2020
Les Reversées
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
Les Reversées is a wine from a parcel of 25 to 100yo vines planted in a deep soil of clayey brown limestone on a gentle east facing slope. It has a very pretty pale colour, also showing a touch of pepper and liquorice on the nose. On the palate its class is immediately apparent – silky mouthfeel, spicy raspberry fruit with good weight and energy. An age-worthy wine that feels detailed and very harmonious. For drinking now to 2030.
BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2019
Les Bressandes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
From a steep, due east facing slope that easily ripens the pinot noir and gives structure and depth as well as elegance, Rateau’s Les Bressandes is from a 1ha parcel of young and 50yo vines on prime terroir. More substantial than Les Reversées, the lovely weight of red fruit and spices is no less elegant and finishes very long. For drinking now to 2035+.
Pierrick Bouley Wines
POMMARD 2020
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
This comes from three parcels of 60-90yo vines totalling half a hectare, the largest holdings in Chanlins and Lamblins on terres blanches, high on the hillside and bordering Volnay. It is a richer, denser wine than Pierrick’s village Volnay, with the old vines playing their hand, offering spicy, earthy plum fruit. Perfectly pitched, with caressing yet structured, medium-bodied flavours (typically Pommard), it really coats the palate, and finishes long, saline, and mineral.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU 2018
Roncerets
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
A tiny 0.13ha parcel of 45yo vines here, from the heart of the parcel close to the village on a gentle slope, where the limestone has broken up providing lots of tiny stones. No new oak has been used as it would unbalance the wine. Succulent and stylish there is still some complexity and an impressive weight of dark, spicy fruit here, finishing fresh and mineral. The wine to drink whilst you are cellaring the Clos des Chênes for another couple of years. For drinking now to 2028.
VOLNAY 1ER CRU 2018
Clos des Chênes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
Along with Taillepieds, Clos des Chênes is the other stand-out 1er cru of the village (it is Michel Lafarge’s flagship wine), well exposed on a south-east slope. A rich deep purple immediately attests to the extra depth and concentration of this wine (aged in 20% new oak). There is dark fruit with a latent energy on the nose, with luscious, structured dark, almost blackcurrant fruit on the palate, Moroccan spices, and plenty of reserve and grip with a sappy finish. Brilliant wine. For drinking now to 2038.
Maison En Belles Lies Wines
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2022
100% Aligoté
100% Aligoté (12% alc.)
This is the first vineyard ever owned by Maison En Belles Lies, surrounded by fallow land and forest, Pierre planted fruit trees and settled beehives among the 50yo vines. This is a remote area along the road from La Rochepot down to Saint-Aubin, lieu-dit Les Genouvrées Au Sud. Located in the Hautes-Côtes on the plateau at 320m altitude the soil is white, 'terre blanche' of medium depth, it has a lot of stones and fossils perfectly suited to aligoté doré. Aged for 14 months in 30% stainless steel and 70% old 350ltr barrels. It is racked for clarification in the spring, not filtered as per all cuvées but bottled with a light 'sulfitage de protection' (15 mg/l). The wine feels very close to the grape on the aromatics, silky and ripe on the palate it is perfectly balanced by savoury and lip-smacking acidity.
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2022
Jarre à Bia
100% Aligoté
100% Aligoté (12.5% alc.)
This comes from the same plot as the straight aligoté, a selection of the best bunches were gently destemmed and layered down a 'jarre en terre cuite' (terracotta) for maceration and fermentation. Pressed after six months the fermenting juice went back into the jarre for ageing. No fining, filtration or SO2 added. Still pale coloured considering the length of skin-contact, this is textural and denser than the original version – the terracotta brings 'verticality' to the wine, a umami-loaded texture and savoury finish.
BOURGOGNE 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
50-60yo vines planted on an alluvial fan in Meursault, deep soils of sand and clayey silt. 15 months élevage in 350ltr fûts, no fining or filtration and bottled with 15mg/l SO2. Round and creamy with a tonic finish, a well-handled reduction bringing lovely toasty notes, this an extremely pleasurable wine for everyday drinking.
MONTHÉLIE 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Pierre made this wine from a 0.40ha parcel of 50yo vines high up a south-east facing slope of 'terre blanche' – a very stony limestone-clay soil which is difficult to plough and weathers out many fossils. Only 1% of Monthélie vineyards are planted with chardonnay, invariably at the top of hillsides. Aged for 15 months in 4yo 350ltr barrels, this wine coats the palate, it’s elegant with limestone-induced salivation, incisive freshness and a floral touch. The finish is lenghty, clear and precise. 15 mg/l of sulphur added at bottling.
SANTENAY 2022
Sous La Roche
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Located at the bottom of a coteau, lieu-dit Les Saunières, the soils are very red and made up of marls. The vineyard is 0.37ha and was planted 40 years ago. The terroir here lends a pronounced irony quality to the wine, dense in its youth it expresses lovely floral and herbal notes sustained by minerality on the palate. Aged in old 350ltr barrels for 15 months with 15 mg/l of sulphur added at bottling.
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2019
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
Pierre produces just two barrels from gnarled 85yo vines giving a tiny yield, from the fine lieu-dit of Le Charlemagne, the true heartland of this legendary appellation, on a south-west facing slope in white coloured marl with small chalky stones overlying a hard limestone base. The fermentation ticks along slowly in two fûts from 2010 and 2014 and a 18-months élevage follows – Pierre has always found that this 'climat' benefits from longer ageing. One of the finest white burgundies that we've tasted, it’s a wine of style and race, with density and yet finesse with a limpid quality, a marked salinity and just so much class.
L'ÉTRANGE 2020
Vin de France
60% Gamay, 25% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay
60% Gamay, 25% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay (10.5% alc.)
70yo vines planted 'en foule' – old school field blend – in the cold terroir of the Hautes Côtes at 400m altitude on a clay-limestone slope. Carbonic maceration of 30 days followed by 15 months ageing in old fûts and bottled without SO2. A unique glimpse in Burgundy's past, this is lightly coloured, perfumed and high-pitched with complex citrus flavours and acidulated red fruits on the palate. A refined and terroir-driven 'vin de soif'.
HAUTES CÔTES DE BEAUNE 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This wine comes from a 0.55ha holding of 50yo vines planted in a lieu-dit called Les Chataigniers at 310m altitude above the village of Saint Aubin – the soil here is of a medium depth and easy to plough. Low yield averaging 40hh, whole-bunch fermentation and free run juice only (press juice discarded). Aged in old 228ltr barrels for 15 months, pinch of sulphur added at bottling. Pale-coloured, it is juicy, fresh and elegant with sustained red fruits aromas typical of pinot noir. As Pierre likes to point out this is the perfect accompaniment for BBQs with good friends!
ALOXE-CORTON 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
The 60-65yo vines are planted in a deep soil of red clay at the bottom of a hill, lieu-dit Les Caillettes. Vinified from 100% whole bunches and very delicately extracted, aged in 7-10yo pièces bourguignonnes and neither fined nor filtered. Delicate colour, smooth and round texture, it's a wine with an excellent core of vibrant red fruits, a display of elegance and harmony.
MARANGES 1ER CRU 2016
Les Clos Roussots
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
The 0.49ha of vines here are over 60yo planted in a mix of clay and chalky marls. Made from whole bunches and aged in 3-7yo fûts, this wine has a lot of class, perfumed and racy on the nose, it is structured and perfectly pitched, with delectable black fruits and a saline freshness. A judicious match to game meat and creamy sauces. No SO2 added.
Jean-Philippe Fichet Wines
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2021
100% Aligoté
100% Aligoté (12% alc.)
Fichet's aligoté vines are planted in Meursault, on the flatter land below the famous hillside. Aged in 6yo 600ltr demimuids for one year this is a balanced, zippy wine, with finely tuned fruit and good minerality.
MEURSAULT 2021
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This is a superb example of village Meursault from six well-placed lieux-dits (including Les Clous and Narvaux) and old vines averaging 50yo. It offers good weight on the attack, buttery, apricot fruit, with a balancing mineral character and silky finish.
Pierre-Henri Rougeot Wines
MEURSAULT 2022
Sous La Velle
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This comes from Domaine Rougeot’s 55yo biodynamically tended vines in Sous La Velle. This lieu-dit sits on heavy clay soils just below the village of Meursault. Aged in a third new oak, there’s a whiff of reduction on the nose, the palate is rich and large, verging on opulent. There's a light touch of oak, that will integrate beautifully in time, supporting gorgeous, silky stone fruits.
SAINT-ROMAIN 2022
Le Jarron
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Le Jarron lies at the heart of 'St-Romain’s amphitheatre', facing due south, on a steep slope, and sits on very poor white soil. The fruit comes from a biodynamic producer, and ageing occurred in 20% new oak. The 40yo vines yielded a wine of more flesh and substance than most Saint-Romain we've come across, backed up by good tension and a limestone mineral print.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 2022
Le Paradis
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This is the assemblage of two lieux-dits Les Lombardes and La Goujonne located at the bottom of the slope, below the village of Chassagne. Lifted and elegant, the oak (25% new) is very discreet here – a bright and detailed palate of white flowers, lemon, and a touch of freshly churned butter. The palate has tension and vibrant limestone-induced bitters on the finish.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
En Remilly
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
En Remilly is a fantastic climat, a prime terroir linking St-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly to Chevalier-Montrachet GC. There's hardly any topsoil above the Bathonian limestone bedrock, bringing mineral imprint and structure to the wines. The 60yo vines struggled here in 2022, yielding just 30hh of pristine grapes. A multilayered umami bomb, the wine is concentrated, powerful, and packed with tannin-like bitters that enliven the finish. Grand Vin. For drinking now to 2028.
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The vineyard is located towards the top of the hill of Corton, close to the woods, one of the last plots to ripen. Vinified and aged entirely without SO2 – only a tiny adjustment three weeks before the final 'soutirage' pre-bottling. This is lifted and dynamic, with good weight and a floral touch. Perfect balance between silkiness and acidity, fruit and bitters, a beautiful wine with no hard edges and a lot of class typical of its pedigree. For drinking now to 2028+.
POMMARD 2022
Rue au Port
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
This is produced from Domaine Rougeot’s impeccable biodynamic fruit. Rue au Port is the last vineyard on the slope, below the village of Pommard on the Volnay side. Just three barrels produced here, one of which was new. This is a 'modern' Pommard – deep, powerful, and generous, the tannins are coated with round fleshy fruit. There's an iron ping running through the wine while the stems bring freshness and restraint.
BEAUNE 2022
Les Longbois
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This is a selection of pinot fin from Les Longbois, a cool site high up on the slope towards the Hautes-Côtes (330m altitude) with a S/SW exposition. The wine is pretty as well as restrained, long and lifted with very fine tannins. Slightly austere at first, it opens up beautifully with gorgeous bramble fruits aromatics and a long savoury finish.
CORTON GRAND CRU 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
The plot is on the Aloxe side of the hill of Corton, mid-slope close to the Bressandes lieu-dit. The coteau is fairly steep and the 45yo vines sit on a clay-limestone soil with optimum draining capacity. Despite only being into the second year of organic conversion, the vines yielded a generous 40hh in 2022. Deep purple in colour, explosive and lush on the nose, the whole bunches bring enticing herbal notes and lift to the rich and deep mouthfeel. A dynamic palate with sappy bramble fruits, beautifully fine tannins, impeccable balance, and a very long finish. For drinking now to 2030.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2022
En Reniard
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
The climat En Reniard lies south of the village, just below the 'route départemantale' – the 35yo vines sit in an 80cm deep clay topsoil. Aged in new (25%) to 3yo barrels for 18 months and bottled without fining or filtration. A perfect blend of structure and elegance, with enticing tannins, perfumed red fruits, and a savoury finish.
Sylvain Langoureau Wines
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU 2021
Champlots
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Sylvain's holdings totalling 8.5ha are largely in Saint-Aubin. He is a very thoughtful winemaker and he uses Sylvain Pataille as a consultant to bounce ideas off. His Champlots vines planted in marl soils with a south-west aspect are between 10-20yo. Aged in 20% new to 5yo barrels, this is a delicious wine enjoyable in its youth with good weight of citrus fruit, orange oil, hint of basil, liquorice and bay-leaf on the palate, tethered by a refreshing balancing acidity. Excellent value for money.
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU 2021
En Remilly
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This comes from vines planted by massal selection in 1989 on a steep south-west facing slope that is one of the appellation’s finest terroirs (effectively a continuation of le Montrachet as the hillside swings round to the west) where the soil is very sparse and you find just ground up limestone. Aged in 20% new to 5yo barrels, this is an attractive wine, accessible in its youth.
Marc Colin Wines
SAINT-AUBIN 2021
Luce
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
30yo vines here facing west giving a friendly, open, mineral wine. Damien ages most of his Saint-Aubins in a good proportion of 30hl foudres (here 50%), as foudres preserve more CO2 and freshness, and consequently allow him to use lower sulphur levels. Overall there is only 5% new oak with the oldest barrels 15yo.
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU 2021
La Chatenière
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Damien makes this fine 1er Cru from three parcels of 30, 40 and 50yo vines planted on a southwest-facing hillside. Here the soil is only 30cm deep and the limestone below is very hard. The wine offers a fine balance of citrus fruits, saline edge and Saint-Aubin’s characteristic tension.
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU 2021
En Montceau
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
According to Damien the 60yo late ripening vines planted south-west just around the corner from Chatenière, give the most mineral of all their Saint-Aubin vineyards. The soils here are white marls that produce a dense, vigourous, ripe lemon, mineral driven wine that slowly unwinds to reveal its qualities.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2021
Le Trézin
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The 35yo Trézin vines are located high up on the hill above the Puligny 1er Cru La Garenne. It is cooler here and so the wine always retains a good cut of acidity that marries beautifully with its steely, composed fruit.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 2021
Margot
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Margot is a wine named after Caroline and Damien’s paternal grandmother. It comes from four parcels of vines averaging 35yo, planted on the lower slopes of the appellation in limestone-clay soils. Aged in 20% new oak barrels for 12 months and then given six months in cuve, this is rich and yet firm, with good structure and fine depth to the fruit.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2021
Les Caillerets
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Situated just above Champs Gains, on a moderate, due east-facing slope, with shallow and stony clay-limestone soil, Les Caillerets is regarded as one of the very best Premier Cru vineyards in Chassagne. It comes from a few parcels planted in 1950, 1976 and 1990, and is vinified in tronconic wooden vats, transferred to foudres and 350ltr oak barrels for 12 months, before spending a further six months in cuve before bottling. This has flesh with yellow flowers, white fruits, and an oyster shell mineral lick on the finish.
SANTENAY 2021
Champs Claude
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This is an excellent red from 110yo 'vieilles vignes' in the lieu-dit of Champs Claude which lies below the Chassagne 1er cru of Morgeot. The soil here is quite rich, gravelly clay with a little sand that is well suited to pinot noir. The oak is very sensitively handled (10% new up to 6yo barrels). The cool raspberry fruit has been delicately extracted, and there is an old viney framework and structure.
Clair Obscur Wines
BOURGOGNE 2020
L'Origine
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This is the cuvée that started the domaine (see profile); it comes from a parcel in the village of Corpeau, planted in 1963, which Pierre inherited from his grandfather. The soil here is predominantly brown clay which gives a beautiful silky texture to the wine. Sorted in the vineyard, whole bunches are loaded into wooden vats for fermentation, gentle extraction with pigeages and remontages during a 10-day cuvaison. The wine is aged in 5-15yo 228ltr barrels for about a year before bottling with minimal sulphur. Like all of Pierre’s reds, this is succulent and quite sensual, the fruit coats the palate, the tannins are very fine and frame it nicely, it’s clear and precise, with cherries, wild berries and touch of smoke and earth. It is rare to find red burgundies that give so much pleasure in their youth while ageing gracefully.
BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAINS 2020
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Gamay
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Gamay (13% alc.)
As per L'Origine, this plot comes from Pierre's family in Corpeau – a 60yo field blend co-planted with pinot noir and gamay in a similar soil. Sappy and earthy, this wine has a lovely concentration of fruit, rustic tannins that call for 'charcuterie', and refreshing spices on the finish. See profile and cuvée L'Origine for details on vinification.
MARANGES 2020
Les Aubuzes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
The lieu-dit Les Aubuzes is characterised by heavy clay soils and cool temperatures (quite typical of Maranges) – the grapes here reach ripeness two weeks after Corpeau. The vines were planted in 1985 and converted to biodynamics in 2015, they yield a round and textural expression of Maranges – expressive on the nose, it feels relaxed on the palate, with silky and fine tannins. See profile and cuvée L'Origine for details on vinification.
MARANGES 2020
Sur Le Bois Sud
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
0.25ha of 30yo vines worked biodynamically since 2015. The plot Sur Le Bois Sud is only a few hundreds meters away from Les Aubuzes, separated from it by woods. It's a similar terroir although the clayey soil is slightly more rocky and has silica-rich sand which brings lift and nuances to the wine. Aged in Jennifer and Pierre’s tiny cave next to their house in Corpeau, the wine is made from yields of 25-30hh with no chaptalisation, fining or filtration. A minute 2-3mg/l of SO2 is added pre-bottling in November the following year. It offers a pale colour, with fresh cherries on the nose, the palate is frank, with vibrant fruit and sustained floral flavours, the grain of tannins is silky and refreshing.
Marc Jambon et Fils Wines
MÂCON-PIERRECLOS 2023
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
Succulent chardonnay fruit, good balance, and a slightly salty, chalky aftertaste define this excellent value wine.
Domaine Garnier Wines
PETIT CHABLIS 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The Garnier brothers have planted 4ha of young vines in Lignorelles on a south-facing slope renowned as the finest hillside in the Petit Chablis AC, in a sandy soil overlying Portlandian limestone. Vinified in stainless steel and bottled after a year, it has minerality and more depth of fruit than you’d expect from this appellation.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2019
Côte de Jouan
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
This is a brilliant wine from 45-55yo vines planted towards the bottom of a southeast facing hillside. The Garnier brothers bought the whole 1ha parcel from a friend who works his vineyard organically. Aged in a 2yo foudre and 3-5yo demimuids, this has good, racy, peppy fruit and there is a real dynamism to the wine which finishes with a characteristic saline lick. It’s at the same quality level as the Côte de Jouan that we have tasted from Pattes-Loup.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021
Fourchaume
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The Garnier brothers bought the grapes for this wine from two parcels in the sectors of Côte de Fontenay and Vaulorent, where the vines are 45yo and 20yo respectively. Aged in one 2yo foudre, it has a chiselled, lemon flecked fruit, with saline edge from limestone stamping the finish.
CHABLIS 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
The brothers planted their vines in 1985 on excellent quality rootstock (3309, strictly no high yielding SO4 which is the most widely planted in Chablis) in Kimmeridgian limestone. The wine has been 100% cuve aged before bottling after one year with high-quality corks and around 50mg/l of total sulphur. There is a character very reminiscent of the sea about this wine, like a delicious oyster, with iodine and saline notes, and good viticulture and lower yields help to give the wine great texture and balance.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021
Mont de Milieu
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This is a wine of real class, immediately announced by both the colour and the nose, and it is the 1er cru we often enjoy the most at the domaine. Made from 35yo vines on a south-facing hillside, with a red clay topsoil dotted with many oyster shells, the yield here was a low 40hh and it was aged for 18 months in 70% 600 litre barrels and 30% in stainless steel. The balance is impeccable, there is a real dynamism to the wine, with ripe grapefruit to the fore, and that quintessential Chablis mineral essence driving the finish.
CHABLIS GRAND CRU 2019
Vaudésir
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Vaudésir is renowned as one of Chablis finest Grands Crus and there is very little soil above the limestone. This is made from just 0.30ha of 20yo vines and was aged in 3-6yo barrels. There is an oyster essence on the nose, it is very saline with iodine notes, vibrant and persistent pithy fruit, stylish and complex with a long finish. For drinking now to 2029.
Domaine Oudin Wines
CHABLIS 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This is the main cuvée of the domaine from 7ha of vineyards spread over six well located parcels with an average vine age of 30yo. The wine has very precise citrus fruit, good texture and a saline quality suggestive of the limestone bedrock, it feels very composed and at ease.
CHABLIS 2021
Les Serres
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This comes from a plateau of limestone above the village of Chichée, next to the 1er cru of Vaucoupins. Cuve aged, it is given an extended élevage on fine lees before bottling after 20 months. More in line with a good 1er cru, it displays an extraordinary depth of fruit, with quite a leesy complexity and good salinity with great length.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2022
Vaucoupins
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This comes from one of the best sited of the 1er Crus – on quite a steep southerly facing vineyard planted in fragmented Kimmeridgian limestone, there is literally no visible soil in the Oudin’s vineyard. It comes from 50yo vines, has a gunflint quality on the nose, then ripe citrus fruits with a marked salty, chalky flavour on the palate.
Pattes Loup, Thomas Pico Wines
CHABLIS 2021
Vent d’Ange
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This comes from three parcels (2ha) around Courgis: La Ménarde, Les Malantes, and Pattes Loup which gave the name of the domaine. The vines are 40yo, issued from a massale selection, and in a full harvest yields average just 40hh (60 permitted). This wine was aged for a minimum of 18 months (some later bottlings occur) – two thirds in stainless steel, one third in 7hl cement eggs. There's always an amazing depth of fruit in Thomas' Vent d'Ange cuvée which offers ripe grapefruit, hint of apricot and saline minerality on the finish. Total SO2 around 35mg/l.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2019
Beauregard
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
Thomas made this 1er Cru from 30yo vines tended organically in Courgis (from one of the highest vineyards in Chablis). Aged in 4-6yo barrels for two years, then cuve for three months, it is more forward in its youth than the Butteaux bottling, offering very attractive redcurrant fruits on the nose, good weight and vinosity and a lingering finish with a mineral vibration.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2019
Butteaux
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Butteaux is a superb left bank 1er Cru at the south-western tip of the 1er Cru Montmains. Thomas does a 'mise tardive' i.e. he matures the wine for an extended period on fine lees – both in tank and neutral barrels (228ltr as well as demi-muids). It was bottled unfined and unfiltered with low SO2 added (usually less than 20mg/l of total). Bursting with confit lemon, apricot and honey flavours, on the palate, it's satiny, multidimensional and deep, with stunning energy and cut despite its long élevage, concluding with a long, sapid finish.
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2018
Les Vaillons
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Pico's Vaillons hails from a tiny quantity of organically farmed old vines, lieu-dit of Séchet, purchased from Gérard Duplessis but picked and vinified by the team at Pattes Loup. Aged for two years, the first in 80% older barrels and 20% cement eggs, before spending a second year in cuve after being assembled. The wine offers up lovely aromas of lemon oil, mandarin and bread dough, followed by a medium to full-bodied palate with notable purity and tension on the finish. Bottled in June 2020 with a total SO2 of 28mg/l. VLQ.
Thierry Richoux Wines
IRANCY 2019
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
Up to 70yo vines here, planted on high quality 41B rootstock, with low yield. Hand harvested and destalked 100% with gentle remontages during fermentation, it was given an 26-month élevage (14 in cement cuve and 6 in foudres). Restrained on the nose, offering a delicious, zesty red cherry fruit, it's well balanced and light on its feet with fine refreshing tannins. 50mg/l SO2 total.
Sylvain Pataille Wines
BOURGOGNE BLANC 2020
Les Méchalots
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This comes from a tiny 0.30ha parcel of 7yo vines planted in deep clay soils with many small stones and was transferred into 7-8yo oak barrels halfway through fermentation. Quite Chablisesque on the nose, it has a beautiful lime flower aroma that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, confit lemon and a saline twang on the finish.
MARSANNAY 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The white Marsannay comes from five parcels of very limestone influenced soil including fruit from newly planted vines in Couchée and shows some reduction on the nose. The palate is more indicative of the wine, displaying a fine thread of acidity, plenty of citrus lemon, lime and minerals, and a precise, lively finish. Once the reduction blows off the nose awakens and displays the qualities of a very fine wine.
MARSANNAY 2020
Le Chapitre
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Bottled as Marsannay from 2019 vintage, Le Chapitre was originally excluded from the AC despite its high-quality site (see profile). The vines (0.3ha) were planted in 1955 in a mix of marl and limestone scree soils, facing east on a very steep slope – similar to the climat Clos du Roy. The wine has a crisp, pure bouquet of stone fruits, gaining intensity with aeration. The fresh, focused palate is well balanced with a laser beam of acidity, quite tangy with sour lemon and quince on a lengthy finish. Excellent.
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2019
La Charme aux Prêtres
100% Aligoté
100% Aligoté (13% alc.)
La Charme aux Prêtres is a reference to the church that lies further down the slope, an historical climat in the village of Marsannay. The aligoté vines were planted in 1949 on gravelly, reddish-brown soil over a Comblanchien limestone bedrock. Aged for 24 months in 228-500l barrels, this is a powerful, resonant wine. The palate is generous to start, but there’s an iron fist behind. The acidity picks up from the mid-palate, driving a finish that is all about minerality – the imprint of limestone is so present that it imparts a gentle tannic grip. A chardonnay bottling is also made from vines planted in 1985, it is obviously another outstanding wine – La Charme aux Prêtres gives wines of 1er cru quality.
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2019
Les Auvonnes au Pépé
100% Aligoté
100% Aligoté (13.5% alc.)
0.8ha in the climat En Auvonnes, planted by Sylvain’s grandfather Armand in 1955 and 1961. This plot has been rented 'en fermage' over three generations, and is where Sylvain cut his teeth at an early age (see profile) – he has fond memories of his grandfather (pépé in French) and remembers hanging out with him at the local bistrot playing tarot with the elders! Sylvain makes a point of making the best wine he can year after year (regularly ranked in our top five) from these beautiful old vines of aligoté doré. En Auvonnes is found on the lower part of the slope, closer to the D974 and on the border of Marsannay with Couchey. Here the dense marl soil is littered with 'cailloux calcaires', it brings a reductive character to the wine, always age-worthy (3 to 5 years in bottle is often needed) with an incredible pillow-like mouthfeel, it’s almost 'sticky' balanced by electric acids and salt.
MARSANNAY ROSÉ 2019
Fleur de Pinot
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Beurot
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Beurot (12.5% alc.)
The tradition of rosé wine in Marsannay dates back 1919, following the war, the idea was to create 'un vin de fête' to revive business. Sylvain’s outstanding rosé is made from 50-90yo PN and pinot beurot (the Burgundian strain of pinot gris). The vines are planted in rocky white marls, from limestone-heavy terroirs usually dedicated to white grapes (Charmes aux Prêtres, Champ Forey), helping to confer a texture that is more typical of a white wine. Half comes from a direct press of the grapes and half from a 2-3 days maceration on the skins. Very unusually for a rosé, this benefits from a two years élevage (in older 600 ltr barrels). Savoury nose and then on the palate full of vivid raspberry fruit encased in lovely acidity and minerals with light tannins in evidence. Extremely persistent, suggesting that bottle age will benefit – Sylvain recommends at least two years. For drinking now to 2026.
MARSANNAY 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Sylvain has 3ha of 50yo vines for his red Marsannay. Aged in a mix of 2 to 10yo barrels plus several old demi-muids. This includes around 25% whole bunches, underpinned by a dark berry and briar bouquet with fine definition. The medium-bodied palate offers mulberry and red plum notes, moderate acidity and meat juices infusing the red fruit on the ample finish.
MARSANNAY 2020
En Clémengeots
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Located at the northern border of Couchey, this east-facing site is characterized by shallow 30-40cm clay soils over a plaque of very hard limestone. En Clémengeots comes from 1ha of 40yo vines and Sylvain kept 50% whole bunches. There are lovely ripe raspberries and griotte cherries on the nose, with floral hints of peonies too. The medium-bodied palate, layered and succulent, offers fine weight as well as grip and a tang of spice toward the lively finish.
MARSANNAY 2019
La Montagne
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
The climat En La Montagne is located north of Marsannay in what used to be a Comblanchien limestone quarry. The 0.5ha of 50yo vines sit atop the slope in a combe surrounded by forest, a cool and humid spot that yields extremely elegant wines with freshness and low alcohol. Mostly destemmed and gently extracted (infusion), this is aged in larger/older barrels. It's always highly drinkable with a lifted element to it, the nuanced aromatics linger in the mouth, carried by salty limestone-induced minerals.
MARSANNAY 2019
Le Chapitre
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Bottled as Marsannay from 2019 vintage, Le Chapitre was originally excluded from the AC despite its high-quality site (see profile). This is made from 1ha of 25, 40 and 70yo vines. Exhibiting aromas of orange rind, wild berries, plums and dark chocolate, it’s medium to full-bodied, with a muscular chassis of powdery tannin, savouriness and fine concentration. More structured than many of the domaine's Marsannay cuvées, this will really blossom with four or five years in the cellar.
MARSANNAY 2020
Clos du Roy
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Arguably the best terroir of the appellation, the east-facing Clos du Roy is one of the contenders for the 1er Cru classification to come. 2ha of mostly 60yo vines (2/3) on stony marls, it contains 90% whole bunches and was given a 18 months élevage. You cannot detect a single stem on the fulsome, generous bouquet of red cherries mixed with strawberry and raspberry. The fresh, vibrant palate is medium bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and one of the most precise finishes among Pataille’s reds. Classy, and always the wine at this address that will benefit from some bottle age. A rare and always outstanding aligoté bottling is also made from the Clos du Roy.
MARSANNAY 2021
L’Ancestrale
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
This is Sylvain’s top red cuvée, made from a selection of the best and oldest vines at the domaine – from the lieux-dits Clos du Roy, Clémengeots, and Les Ouzeloy, they were planted between 1930-1945 on 'grèzes litées' (imbricated rock fragments bedded parallel to the slope) that sit on white oolite limestone bedrock. The vines are only worked by horse through the season and they're weaved by hand, no trimming. The wine was fermented with a majority of whole bunches and given 24 months élevage. Deeply structured, with an abundance of very fine, pixelated tannins, it keeps changing in the glass, from crunchy red fruits to spices, green tea, oyster shell, and floral notes. A truly captivating wine although rare as hen's teeth, we cannot recommend it highly enough.
Thierry Mortet Wines
BOURGOGNE ROUGE 2021
Les Charmes de Daix
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Aged for 14 months in old oak and a few months in cuve, this is a working man’s Gevrey-Chambertin – from vines of the same village, displaying much of the same quality and breed of its illustrious neighbouring vineyards. Silky soft and perfumed, this is what good Burgundy is all about.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2020
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Thierry has six hectares of vines in some of Gevrey-Chambertin’s prime sites. This is really fine pinot noir, totally destemmed and punched down twice a day, it has a wonderfully pure definition of strawberry pinot fruit with that typical hint of game and touch of oak to add to its complexity. The 2020 vintage brings early pleasure, refined structure, and length. For drinking now to 2030.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2020
Vigne Belle
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Thierry owns 0.7ha in this very well-placed lieu-dit, alongside (east) the 1er cru of Petite Chapelle, renowned for providing the most feminine and elegant of the Gevrey 1er crus. Thierry’s Vigne Belle, from 30yo vines, is of a similar style, with enchanting pinot aromas, a depth of red fruits and flowers, real finesse and silky tannins. For drinking now to 2030.
Lucien Boillot & Fils Wines
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2021
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Pierre has 12 parcels of village Gevrey which total 2.8ha averaging 50yo, though many are both older and younger – they are spread all over the village, north towards Brochon, south towards Morey, some higher altitude and others lower. The importance here is the overall high average vine age, and Pierre likes to stress the importance of a wine and its tannins being in harmony from the start, especially for pinot. Destalked 100% in 2021 along with all the wines in the cave, there’s delicious cherry fruit with good depth, liquorice and touch of spice, very sapid with good lift on the finish where tannins are fine grained. It’s the emblematic cuvée of the cave (the most important holding) and sets a very high standard indeed.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2021
Les Evocelles
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
This is an unusually well-placed lieu-dit, lying at the northern tip of the bank of fine 1er Crus (including Clos Saint Jacques) that sweeps round to the north-west of the village. Les Evocelles faces due east, at the same height as most of the other 1er Crus on the hillside, and Pierre’s 0.27ha plot is right above the 1er Cru of Les Champeaux. It’s a rocky terroir with quite a diversified soil mix derived from limestone and marl. It seems a strange anomaly that this is the only vineyard in the bank that is not 1er Cru and Pierre is justifiably fiercely proud of it, as he believes it is the best non-1er Cru climat in Gevrey! The vines here are 70yo and confer a pronounced mineral character with an irony undertone to the wine. It is definitely a richer more gourmand style than the village wine, deeper in colour too, with a darker cherry fruit but lifted by a refreshing salinity. Like the village bottling you can drink this wine in its youth with great pleasure, but it deserves a few years in bottle.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU 2021
La Perrière
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Pierre has just 0.09ha of this excellent 1er Cru which lies just to the east of the country road that runs south of the village towards Morey. It’s about 100m away from the 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes, on the same gentle east-facing slope alongside the 1er Cru of Clos Prieur, and all of these 1er Crus are renowned for their elegance and subtlety. Many centuries ago, there was a quarry here, subsequently filled in and planted with vines. The 50yo vines are planted in a very shallow topsoil close to the limestone bedrock, and always confer a wine of grace and class. There’s an 'aérien' feel, with detailed, very pure lifted fruit which kids you into thinking that it is on the light side, but there’s actually an excellent and persistent stamp of mineral infused fruit on the finish. For drinking now to 2028.
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU 2021
Les Corbeaux
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Les Corbeaux is a fine 1er Cru planted tight (high density) to the southern edge of the village, just above the road to Morey, and next to Mazis-Chambertin GC. In the Middle Ages there was originally a cemetery here hence the name 'les corbeaux' that translates as the crows! Two thirds of the 0.45ha of 60yo vines are planted going up the hill close to the limestone and one third at the bottom in deeper soils. One of our regular favorites at the domaine, there’s a distinct wet stone element on the nose, greater depth and range to the kernel of sour cherry and red berry fruit entwined with herbs and spices (fenugreek comes to mind), it’s the perfect weight, and the finish goes on and on. Grand Vin in our books. For drinking now to 2028.
Cécile Tremblay Wines
BOURGOGNE 2017
La Fontaine
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
It’s great to be able to welcome a new wine from Cécile, especially when it is such good value for money. Cécile purchased organically farmed grapes from the Domaine de la Cras in Dijon to make this wine (aged as all her wines in recent Chassin barrels) which is medium bodied, charming, open-knit and bursting with aromas and flavours of juicy cherries and strawberries with a floral note. While the grapes may be purchased, the wine's textural charm is quintessentially Tremblay.
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 2017
Très Girard
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This comes from a half hectare of 40-45yo vines situated just below the 1er Cru of Clos des Sorbets. The vines are sited on an easterly facing 25° slope to the west of the main road (where all the best village sites are found). It was 70% destalked and aged in 20% new oak Chassin barrels, and it has a most attractive red fruits nose, perfect weight of ripe, velvety red and black fruits with a spicy hint, typical Morey backbone, fine tannins and a touch of salinity derived from limestone on the finish. For drinking now to 2027.
VOSNE-ROMANÉE 2017
Vieilles Vignes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This comes from a 0.53ha parcel of vines in Jacquines (50yo) and also Aux Communes (40yo). 75% destalked and aged in 30% new oak this wine is a bright dark red colour, seems particularly harmonious in this year and has spicy, red cherry-mulberry fruits with good depth, lovely balance and tension. The tannins are extremely fine, and there is real lift on the long finish. Old vines give the wine its complexity and character. Always the last wine to finish its malos. For drinking now to 2027.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU 2017
Les Feusselottes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Cécile’s small holding (0.45ha) of 50yo vines lie on the upper slope of this 1er cru just to the east of the village. There is little soil here and the vines are very close to the limestone rock. Destalked 60% and aged for a year in 30% new oak before racking and transfer to stainless steel cuve for four months prior to bottling in March. It has a slightly reserved nose that quickly opens up giving crushed, fresh red cherries and strawberries, spice, beautiful weight of vibrant, refined fruit has both delicacy and intensity with a supple teasing quality on the palate with real depth and length on the finish. For drinking from 2022 to 2030.
ÉCHEZEAUX GRAND CRU 2017
Du Dessus
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
In the 1936 Grand Cru delimitation, Échezeaux grand cru extended only to the 3.57ha of Échezeaux du Dessus. Échezeaux now has 11 climats extending to 37.69ha. The vineyards of Échezeaux du Dessus unquestionably produce wine of the finest grand cru pedigree. Cécile produced three barrels from 45yo vines, and like in 2015 and 2016 decided to destalk 100% for the fermentation – it easily has sufficient matter not to need the support of stalks. Interestingly Cécile explained that Échezeaux is a very sensitive wine to any kind of movement, shutting down quickly, and even in bottle this is apparent – so when you do get round to drinking it, bring it up from your cellars a day or two in advance! The wine has a hauntingly beautiful perfume, quite spicy with hints of liquorice, soy, anise, and a distinct note of wild rose. On the palate, the wine has a spicy cherry and cranberry fruit, real depth and an elegant silky mouthfeel with very clear cut and salinity on the long finish. For drinking from 2026 to 2036.
CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU 2017
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This comes from a prized holding of 80yo vines (0.36ha) in a deep red, iron-imbued soil on a 15° slope just to the south of Gevrey-Chambertin. Cécile's vines are in the lieu-dit Les Gémeaux, next to the holdings of Domaine Claude Dugat. There are approximately 30cm of well-drained soil with many small pebbles lying over a limestone rock base. Made with 80% whole bunches and aged entirely in new oak, the quality of the juice here is magnificent and the wine spent an additional 4-5 months in barrel before bottling in May. Combining both elegance and depth of fruit with more of a sense of minerality with impressive body and incredible length on the palate, this is grand vin and will age effortlessly. For drinking 2025 to 2037.
Amiot-Servelle Wines
BOURGOGNE 2020
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (14% alc.)
This comes from 1.5ha near the RN74 east of Chambolle-Musigny. Using just 10% new oak (with the balance up to 4yo), this wine has a nose of earthy, dark berry fruit and a silky quality on the palate. Serious wine at this level.
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 2020
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
This very good value MSD comes from 0.46 ha of vines averaging 45yo in the lieux-dits of Clos Solon and Les Bras (one to the west and one to the east of the D974) where the soils are red and pebbly with a limestone base. It offers a crisp blackberry and raspberry-scented bouquet with light undergrowth/tobacco aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the attack.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 2020
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
This wine comes from eight parcels around the village ranging from 15-70yo (the largest holding is Bas-Doix) and was aged in 20% new oak barrels. It has always been a very consistent, pleasurable wine, usually made with 20-30% whole bunches. It shows race and charm on the nose with brambly fruit; the fleshy, ripe body has perfect pitch with enough depth and complexity to develop well in bottle.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU 2018
Les Charmes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
1.15ha that are a mix of young to 80yo vines on shallow (10-20cm) sedimentary soils over a limestone plateau. This is a notable step up from the Chambolle village and 1er Cru Les Plantes – made from 30-40% whole bunches, it offers commendable depth, sustained spicy plum fruit, and a very harmonious palate with good salinity and fine-grained tannins. It often needs a minimum of six years to open up beautifully. For drinking now to 2030+.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU 2015
Derrière la Grange
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
From vines planted in 1934 and sited just below the village towards Morey-St-Denis in a slightly deeper soil than Charmes. Amiot-Servelle is one of two proprietors with 0.36 ha of vines in this tiny 1er Cru which totals just 0.47 ha. As expected, this is a complex wine, quite reserved on the nose, with the structure, grip and concentration (35% whole bunches) from old vines evident on the palate. The fruit has black notes, is dense and has more weight and resonance than Les Charmes. Needs at least six years from vintage and will age for up to 15 years. For drinking 2021 to 2030.
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU 2017
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
This comes from 0.19 ha of 60-70yo vines in the upper part of the appellation that can also be called Mazoyères, where the limestone outcrops in places and there is a very thin, red coloured soil, imbued with iron. Always very black fruited on the nose with a note of herbal tea, it has a lot of density thanks to a tiny cluster of grapes from old vines. A seductive texture with caressing mid-weight flavours, the grippy tannins are ripe and well-coated (10% whole bunches used) presaging a long future. Will easily last for 20 years. For drinking 2024 to 2037.
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU 2016
Les Amoureuses
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
The 0.45 ha of vines here are planted in the highest part of this famous vineyard (two-thirds are from the 1950s and one third from 1996) in a thin, stony, limestone-heavy soil. Just two barrels produced in 2016 – for their top wines A-S use barrels where the oak has been seasoned for four years before use (a year longer than their other wines). This is a sensational wine, at the level of a fine grand cru, with an outstanding texture and energy, intense black cherry and blueberry fruits, notable spice, real depth of flavour and length, a mineral backbone and very fine tannins (10% whole bunches). It needs more than seven years from vintage date and will last for twenty. For drinking 2024 to 2036.
CLOS-SAINT-DENIS GRAND CRU 2017
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
The 0.17 ha of vines here (planted pre-phylloxera at an eye-opening 28,800 vines per hectare!) is located in the heart of the appellation on quite a steep, east-facing slope, in a marl dominant soil. Made with 20% whole bunches, there is a spicy, floral nose with layers of blackberry and raspberry fruit, and on the palate, it has mineral-inflected fruit with class, density, restraint and energy. Elegant and structured this is an exceptional wine. Needs 8 years and will last for 25. For drinking 2024 to 2037.
Domaine Chicotot Wines
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2018
Vieilles Vignes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
This is made from several micro plots of old vines averaging 85yo dotted around the village, although the majority come from the northern Vosne-Romanée end (plots such as Au Chouillet and Aux Saint Jacques). Medium to full bodied, floral notes of peonies and violets on the nose, with spicy, raspberry fruit to the fore, it is elegantly muscular with succulent acids and an old viney grip on the finish.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2019
Aux Allots
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
The Chicotots own five parcels in the climat Aux Allots (on the Vosne end, just below the 1er Cru Aux Vignerondes) – planted in 1924, 1956, 1968 and 1977, and totalling 0.9ha. Reddish brown clay soils, covered with 'chailles' (silica rocks similar to flint) that give wines approachable in their youth with elegant texture, round tannins, and enticing bramble fruit flavours.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2019
Aux Saint Juliens
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
Aux Saint Juliens comes from a small 0.22ha holding of 60yo vines – in a site near the cemetery at the northern Vosne end of the village. It’s made from one third whole bunches, and offers aromas of black cherry and raspberry, peonies and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and perfumed, it's one of the most alluring, charming cuvées of Chicotot’s communal lieux-dits.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2020
Les Plantes Au Baron
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (14% alc.)
0.17ha just below the outstanding 1er Cru Les Saint Georges. Every year the yields here are tiny – around 18hh, thankfully yielding just enough for one barrel. The rich, complex nose has intense dark berry fruit, spices, peonies and hints of leather. One has the impression of tiny grapes bursting with flavour. Dark berry fruits dominate on the palate, backed by discreet liquorice accents, and ripe, fine-grained tannins suggest it will age very well. For drinking now to 2030.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU 2018
Les Rues de Chaux
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (14% alc.)
A muscular, powerful wine from 0.28ha of 35 and 75yo vines growing in a very thin red-brown soil with roots into the fractured limestone bedrock – Chaux translates as lime (chalk). This is a medium to full-bodied, rich, and youthfully chewy effort that delivers aromas of black cherries, liquorice, roasted meats, spice and rose hips. Lively and structured, it will demand some patience (ideally ten years or more) or decanting. For drinking now to 2035.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU 2019
Les Vaucrains
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
From a 0.24ha parcel planted in 1942 in a bed of red clay with a rich, loamy stony soil. The name of this 1er Cru comes from Burgundian dialect describing its valley-like shape (Vau) forming a crack in the hillside (Crain). It unwinds in the glass with scents of blackberries and sloes and muskier notes. Only two barrels were produced in 2019 with one aged in new oak and the other in a 1yo barrel. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, with a textural attack and a deep, concentrated core, this is an impressive, rather old-school Vaucrains that will demand patience or long carafing. For drinking now to 2040.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU 2020
Aux Torey
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (14% alc.)
Aux Torey has fine gravelly soil overlying oolitic limestone that has broken down from the hillside above – it has a prime location to the north of the village close to Vosne-Romanée. The vineyard is gently sloping, superbly exposed to both S and SE, in similar fashion to Gevrey’s Clos-St-Jacques. The Chicotot family has 0.32ha of 70yo vines. Here we have the most charming and sensual of the 1er Crus with a beautiful purple colour that extends right out to the edge with flavours of wild berries, and hints of peonies, violets and liquorice. Medium to full-bodied, the fruit acid balance is spot on – it’s lively and supple with ripe tannins and an expansive finish. For drinking now to 2030+.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU 2020
Les Saint Georges
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (14% alc.)
Les Saint Georges is clearly the finest vineyard in NSG – the first in line for a future Grand Cru classification (the INAO has been working on it for years). Mid-sloped to the south of the village, the soil here is a deep brown colour, very stony, with deep limestone beneath. The 0.22ha of Chicotot vines were planted by Clément’s grandfather in 1942 and occupy the heart of the hillside where vines were first planted in 1000AD! An exceptional deep, dark cherry colour right out to the edge. The aromatic range plays on black fruits and spices mixed with truffle and musky animal notes, especially as the wine ages. This is a powerful, complex, full-bodied wine with a perfect weight, detail and structure that lets it face the years ahead without fear. So much class, it really coats the mouth and makes one’s spine tingle! For drinking from 2026 to 2050.
Antoine Lienhardt Wines
CÔTES DE NUITS VILLAGES 2022
Les Plantes aux Bois
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
This is Antoine’s finest single vineyard wine, and his largest parcel, unusually planted north to south in a prime location on a gentle, 20% east-facing slope with a shallow topsoil and deep limestone below. The vines are between 50-70yo, and the wine was given a 10 months élevage in 1-7yo barrels. A beautiful limpid colour, throughout there are lovely, tart red fruit tones that are open to interpretation: redcurrant, blackberry, tart cherry. It’s almost beside the point because each whiff, every sip, seems different. Around the edges, the wine’s aromas also recall spring (peonies) and autumn leaves at different intervals. But it is the exuberant acidity, delicate and playful tannins, and fierce saline minerality on the finish that make this wine so refreshing, enjoyable and impeccably versatile at the table.
CÔTES DE NUITS VILLAGES 2021
Emphase
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Antoine’s top wine comes from old vines (70-85yo) from all seven of his terroirs within Comblanchien (principally Plantes au Bois, Essards and Aux Vignottes). The soils are a mix of clay, limestone and sand, stony in places, both from hillside vineyards and on the flat. Made from whole bunches it was given a 10-month élevage in one third cement egg and two thirds older 228 and 500ltr barrels. It has a slightly deeper colour (compared to Les Plantes Aux Bois), gorgeous sour cherry fruit with floral almost potpourri hints. There’s real energy and power to the wine, a good mineral vibration, and supple, ripe tannins.
NUITS SAINT GEORGES 1ER CRU 2020
Aux Thorey
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
The excellent 1er cru Aux Thorey (sometimes spelt Torey – both are permitted) has fine gravelly soil overlying oolitic limestone that has broken down from the hillside above. The vineyard is gently sloping, superbly exposed to both south and east, in similar fashion to Gevrey’s Clos St-Jacques, and lies at the northern end of the village next to Vosne Romanée. Antoine likes to buy grapes from friends in the region and from vineyards with special appeal, so he naturally jumped at the chance to buy a small lot of organically certified old vine grapes from this fine location – from which he has made a single barrel on a one-off basis. There’s a lot of class from this excellent 1er Cru and we can clearly see why Antoine is so excited. Using 100% whole bunches, it has a beautiful purple colour, it’s racy and dynamic with flavours and aromas of wild berries, spice and hints of peonies, medium bodied with fine depth of fruit, ripe tannins and a long finish.
Roland Schmitt Wines
GLINTZBERG 2023
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (13% alc.)
30yo vines here in Glintzberg which touch the grand cru of Altenberg de Bergbieten. The soil is a clay-marl mix and like the grand cru, gypsum fragments in the subsoil are considered to bring a delicious freshness to the wine. The nose is floral and mineral, and on the palate the wine is most attractive with a clear-cut fresh fruit, with well-integrated sappy acidity and distinct saline notes on the sustained finish.
THALBERG 2018
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (14% alc, 3.9g/l of rs)
An excellent wine from 30-40yo vines lower down the hillside of Altenberg de Bergbieten and facing west. Fragments of gypsum can be clearly seen here weathered out on the surface. The wine has the same pitch and flavours as the Glintzberg, but the older vines give a juice that is just a little denser with a touch more structure.
Domaine Lissner Wines
CLASSIQUE 2023
Pinot Blanc
50% Pinot Blanc, 50% Auxerrois
50% Pinot Blanc, 50% Auxerrois (13% alc.)
The vines grow on loess down the slopes of Wolxheim. Fermentation and ageing in stainless steel for a year. Ripe and fruit-forward with peach and pear aromas, lovely freshness balancing a round texture, simple and easy-going, this is 'trés gourmand'.
HORN 2020
100% Pinot Blanc
100% Pinot Blanc (13.5% alc.)
Located to the east of Wolxheim, the hill of Horn has gentle to steep slopes with loess over Jurassic limestone – a fitting terroir for pinots. Slow press, fermentation and ageing in wooden foudres, no additives. This is surprisingly aromatic for pinot blanc with fresh herbs and citrus, the texture is smooth and multi-layered with intensity and drive, and a long salivating finish makes it extremely moreish. This is pinot blanc at its best, translating a unique terroir.
DIONYSIUSKAPELLE 2020
100% Sylvaner
100% Sylvaner (13% alc)
Dionysiuskapelle is a lieu-dit where a Roman chapel was once built. Located at the bottom of Wolxheim’s amphitheatre shaped hillsides, the vines sit on a fault line with clay and gravels eroded from the surrounding hills of sandstone and limestone. Aged in traditional foudres on its lees, this wine is extremely digeste with gin & tonic flavours, food-friendly bitters and a saline finish.
WOLXHEIM 2022
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (13% alc, 4.2g/l of rs)
Planted on the Soultzberg hill characterised by its Triassic soil of muschelkalk (mussel chalk) and clay – typical of the communal appellation Wolxheim, a terroir that produces powerful wines. The grapes come from different lieux-dits, mostly SE facing. Vinified in stainless steel and aged on its 'lies entières' for a year. Verticality and minerality define this wine, despite its full-bodied texture, with lip-smacking quince marmalade flavours and a saline finish.
ALTENBERG DE WOLXHEIM GRAND CRU 2018
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (13.3% alc.)
The south-facing, amphitheatre-shaped Altenberg sits at the heart of the Horn hillside, overlooking the village of Wolxheim. This exceptional and historical terroir is a sun trap made of Jurassic oolite limestone, a mineral-rich, porous and friable rock cut through by underground caves and sources; roots dig deep to fetch water and minerals allowing the vines to thrive among a luxuriant flora. This almost Mediterranean micro-climate produces perfectly ripe grapes, yielding extremely dense juice, almost oily as Bruno would say, which in turn ferments and ages in stainless steel on its lees for over a year. Bottling occurs without the use of any sulphur. This wine is an energy ball, intense and powerful, its lime induced acidity tames down after a few years in bottle and beautifully combines with glycerol and salt, displaying an astonishing array of aromas: spices, all citrus (Corsican mandarin, cédrat, yuzu, bergamot…), Mediterranean herbs – many of which are found in the vineyard (e.g. oregano, wild thyme)! The use of a carafe is recommended. For drinking from 2022 to 2030.
MACÉRATION 2022
100% Pinot Gris
100% Pinot Gris (13% alc)
Pinot gris from the Dionysiuskapelle lieu-dit where a Roman chapel was once built. The whole grapes macerated for four weeks before being pressed into demi-muids and 500ltr barrels for ageing. Similar to a light red, this wine has rustic and fresh tannins with a crunchy and spiced fruit.
Beck-Hartweg Wines
TOUT NATURELLEMENT PÉTILLANT 2022
Vin de France
40% Muscat, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Gris
40% Muscat, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Gris (12.5% alc.)
A rosé pét’ nat’ made from grapes grown at the bottom of slopes on heavier soils. Deeply-coloured this is 'pure juice' – zesty acids, crunchy bitters and the right amount of funk for fun times!
DAMBACH-LA-VILLE 2021
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (12.5% alc)
The designation Dambach-la-Ville distinguishes a unique terroir characterised by a homogenous pink granite bedrock on which the medieval village and its vineyards sit. This cuvée is made from three different lieux-dits (Lanzenberg, Frankstein, Breitstein) on sandy and rocky slopes exposed to the east. The grapes are slowly and gently pressed followed by an eight to ten months long fermentation in old traditional wooden foudres. Like all their wines bottled unfined and unfiltered after a year, this is a stunning terroir-driven riesling, crystalline and lifted, with flavours of pink grapefruit and roses.
FRANKSTEIN GRAND CRU 2020
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (13% alc)
The soil on the hillsides surrounding Dambach-la-Ville is homogeneous and all granitic. Unusually for Alsace, four distinct south-facing slopes have been classified as Grand Cru. The Beck-Hartweg family proudly possesses 25% of their holdings on Frankstein GC and their riesling comes from the Frauenberg and the Pflanzer lieux-dits, with two thirds of the vines averaging 70yo. The grapes are slowly pressed and ferment in old traditional wooden foudres for up to ten months. Frankstein’s early ripening and warm terroir forces the roots to go deep to find water, nutrients and minerals, which results in a bone-dry, deep and powerful wine straightened up by an extreme salinity. Rock salt, Mediterranean herbs, mint, yuzu and bergamot are all part of its complex, refined and aromatic bouquet. A stunner, for drinking now to 2030+.
FRANKSTEIN GRAND CRU 2019
100% Pinot Gris
100% Pinot Gris (13.5% alc)
In comparison to the riesling, the pinot gris is solely planted on the Frauenberg slope (north of the village) and despite its similar terroir and vinification it unsurprisingly produces a different interpretation of the Frankstein GC. Totally dry, it is fruit-forward, lush and round with liquorice and Chartreuse-like flavours. Saltiness and stony minerality cut through the wine’s richness to balance it perfectly. For drinking now to 2029.
GRANIT 2017
34% Riesling, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Pinot Gris
34% Riesling, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Pinot Gris (13% alc)
Grown on the typical granitic slopes of Dambach-la-Ville, the three grapes are harvested together and then slowly pressed with their stems. Fermentation takes place in old wooden foudres for eight to ten months and the wine remains on its fine lees for an extra few months before bottling. This atypical blend has a deep and golden colour, distinctive aromas of sweet toasted almonds and a fleshy texture. The common thread of tension, minerality and salinity is once again found in this wine. A consistent proof of the Beck-Hartweg’s dedication to showcase their unique terroir through thoughtful and meticulous viticulture.
RITTERSBERG 2019
25% Riesling, 25% Pinot Gris, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Gewürztraminer
25% Riesling, 25% Pinot Gris, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Auxerrois, 10% Gewürztraminer (13% alc.)
The south-east facing and humid coteau of Rittersberg is located above the village of Scherwiller, just south of Dambach-la-Ville. It sits on the same granite ridge but differs from Dambach thanks to layers of silt and granitic sand – a deeper topsoil (one meter) which brings mouthfeel and density. This plot is harvested later than the others and the different varieties are pressed together over six to eight hours – extracting structure, texture and color. The usual lengthy fermentation as well as ageing took place in foudres. This is a great addition to the Beck-Hartweg line-up (first vintage 2018) – voluptuous and multi-layered, it stretches and expands thanks to polished tannins and granite-induced salivation. Bright tangerine color, peaches and cream on the nose, roses, tarragon and gentian on the palate, the bouquet graciously evolves from glass to mouth finishing long, complex and crystalline. A unique, characterful and exhilarating wine. For drinking now to 2030.
DAMBACH-LA-VILLE 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc)
This cuvée comes from two different vineyards, Pfirdel and Rebbronn, both at the bottom of slopes with deeper soils of granitic sand and silt over pink granite bedrock. The grapes are carefully destemmed but not crushed, then macerated for a week before being pressed and aged in stainless steel for less than a year. The result is ripe pinot with a rustic and refreshing structure, lovely flavours of red stone fruits, spices and a gentle smokiness reminiscent of Lapsang Souchong tea.
Domaine Bohn Wines
SCHIEFERBERG 2019
Chapelle Oberhagel
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (13% alc)
The Chapelle Oberhagel is located in the middle of a 70yo vineyard planted in the heart of the Schieferberg, a unique Alsatian terroir made of 'Villé blue schist' – layers of shale dating back to the Precambrian age. It is through the schist soil that the vines draw minerals and impart character to the wines. This riesling was aged in traditional foudres on its fine lees for almost a year and bottled unfined with no sulphur added. This is a ‘vin de garde’ which combines incisive minerality and rich texture, the end of the mouth is long and saline with ripe peach and liquorice flavours lingering. For drinking now to 2030.
MUENCHBERG GRAND CRU 2020
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (12.5% alc)
The Muenchberg Grand Cru, in Nothalten, takes its name from the 12th century Cistercian monks who used to meticulously work the southern exposed slope. The croissant-shaped vineyard is a suntrap over sandstone and volcanic deposits, a unique terroir with poor and acidic soil – the pH is so low that vignerons, including local hero Patrick Meyer, practise liming to improve plant growth. The Bohns own 27 ares of vines averaging 70yo and yielding tiny grapes with thick skins. Slowly and directly pressed, the wine stays on its lees for a year in traditional foudres, and is racked once during élevage, bottling is made without any filtration or added sulphur. This is a 'grand vin de terroir', a multilayered umami bomb which graciously combines depth of flavours and intense salinity. A textural wine in its youth that will develop complex aromas over the years. For drinking now to 2030.
SCHIEFERBERG ZERO 2020
50% Riesling, 50% Pinot Gris
50% Riesling, 50% Pinot Gris (13% alc)
The S/SE exposed vineyards of Schieferberg are planted at high altitude (330 to 400m) and sheltered by the majestic Ungersberg mountain. The schist rock accumulates heat on sunny days and returns it to the vines during cool nights, an ideal scenario for the grapes which benefit from a prolonged and slow maturing process. Pinot gris and riesling are destemmed for one third and macerated in open vats for four weeks with gentle remontages to keep the cap wet. The top layer of the cap is discarded before pressing to remove any unwanted bacteria, and the juice finishes fermentation in traditional foudres before ageing. Schieferberg Zero is bottled without filtration or any SO2 added. Terroir driven and age-worthy, this wine has a deep and bright orange colour, fresh and polished tannins coated with a lush texture. Its complex aromas of morello cherries, quince and cocoa are lifted by an electric minerality.
L’INDIGÈNE 2021
100% Sylvaner
100% Sylvaner (13% alc)
L’Indigène is the first Bohn wine we came across – drunk en terrasse in Strasbourg, it stopped us in our tracks and triggered our first visit to the domaine. Old vines of sylvaner (70yo) growing for 2/3 on schist and 1/3 on sandstone. The grapes go through a 5 weeks maceration following a similar process to Schieferberg Zero. A gently glowing orange colour, it is refined and nuanced with enticing aromas of ripe apricot, pomelo and peppercorn. Schist and sandstone have imparted verticality and a lovely rusticity with fresh and salivating tannins.
ORANGE GAULOIS 2021
90% Gewürztraminer, 10% Riesling
90% Gewürztraminer, 10% Riesling (13.5%)
A 10-day infusion of gewürztraminer whole bunches into a juice of directly pressed gewürz and riesling – the gewürz grows at the bottom of a slope on deeper soil while the riesling comes from slate soils on the prestigious Schieferberg. The wine aged in traditional foudres for a year and delivers vibrant and fruit-forward aromatics. This is surprisingly poised for a gewürz, the gentle extraction via infusion brought balance and salivating salty bitters, a dynamism enhanced by the Schieferberg riesling. No SO2.
PAR NATHUR 2020
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc)
Arthur likes the texture and balance obtained when blending pinot noir grown on schist (70% in this case) and sandstone: the austerity coming from schist soils is tempered with the generosity and flesh given by sandstone. This pinot noir is the opposite of the regional cliché that is too often flabby and alcoholic; it is extremely digeste thanks to its smooth texture, refreshing acidity and bramble fruit flavours. Ageing is carried out principally in stainless steel and the wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any additives.
LE COUP DE JUS 2022
70% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Gris, 15% Riesling
70% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Gris, 15% Riesling (13% alc)
A short infusion (few days) of whole bunches pinot noir into blended juices of pinot gris and riesling. A technique that delivers vibrant and fruit-forward aromatics balanced (in this case) by the imprint of schist: all the grapes come from the amazing terroir Schieferberg with vines reaching deep into the slate soils. Another tour de force by Arthur who managed to combine extreme drinkability with sense of place. Lightly coloured, this is an electrifying wine that can prove addictive (beware!). No SO2.
Marc Tempé Wines
AMZELLE 2020
60% Pinot Blanc, 40% Auxerrois
60% Pinot Blanc, 40% Auxerrois (13% alc, 13.8g/l of rs)
Previously labelled as Zellenberg, the Tempés got into trouble with the AC body that (stupidly) forbids the use of the Zellenberg village as a cuvée name. It comes from nine parcels of 50yo vines on the flanks of Zellenberg’s hills where the soils are clayey marls. A good proportion of auxerrois favoured for body and spice, aged in foudres on fine lees for two years, this has incredible intensity and freshness, a fantastic food wine that tastes bone-dry despite the level of residual sugar. For drinking now to 2030.
AMZELLE 2020
100% Pinot Gris
100% Pinot Gris (14% alc, 3g/l of rs)
Previously known as the Zellenberg pinot gris, it had to be renamed (see pinot blanc). The clayey marls of Zellenberg gives this wine great structure and depth of fruit as per all Tempé wines, it was aged for two years on fine lees in traditional foudres. Touch of reduction on the nose, it opens up quickly showcasing warmth and richness, the fruit is yet restrained with pear, peach, and spices, lovely bitters on the finish that balance the wine's power. For drinking now to 2030.
GRANITE 2019
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (14% alc, 5.6g/l of rs)
This riesling comes from 50yo vines in the commune of Saint Hyppolyte (north of Zellenberg at the Haut/Bas-Rhin border) on acid soils of granitic sand. Two years ageing on fine lees in Alsatian wooden foudres. Full-bodied, earthy and mineral, textured and almost tannic, this achieves the duality of being both broad and precise in flavour, with exemplary balance and tension, notable bitters on the finish. For drinking now to 2030.
GRAFRENREBEN 2019
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (14% alc, 4.1g/l of rs)
The Grafenreben vineyard, which occupies the same flank as the Schoenenbourg Grand Cru spilling off the plateau just north of Riquewihr, comprises two tiny parcels planted in 1950 and 1977 totalling 0.30ha. According to Marc this is a fantastic terroir – better than Mambourg GC! The limestone soil here is relatively heavy with clay, making for a distinctly earthy and ageworthy riesling. Marc always harvests late here, yields are low, often half of what's permitted for a Grand Cru. Deeper in colour and richer than the Zellenberg, and aged for three years in Leflaive barrels, it’s all stony concentration and complexity, ripe fruit and beautiful balance. For drinking now to 2036.
RIMELSBERG 2016
100% Pinot Gris
100% Pinot Gris (14% alc, 14g/l of rs)
Marc’s top cuvée of pinot gris, aged in older barriques for two years, there is a distinct step up in class here. It is made from 30yo vines on the south-eastern flank of the Grand Cru of Schoenenbourg, where there is a deep clay-limestone soil. There’s notable concentration, tropical fruit, good balance, freshness and structure and it’s quite saline with good vitality on the finish. Will age especially well. For drinking now to 2036.
MAMBOURG GRAND CRU 2020
100% Gewürztraminer
100% Gewürztraminer (13% alc, 26g/l of rs)
Mambourg Grand Cru is an early ripening, south-facing hillside with a limestone derived topsoil in which iron oxide gives great complexity. Marc’s vines were planted between 1930 and 1977. The wine is as intensely floral as it is mineral, and full of zesty passion fruit that is balanced by an electric vein of acidity – something that this variety all too often lacks – fantastic with stilton! For drinking now to 2035+.
ZELLENBERG 2017
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc)
Marc’s pinot noir comes from 35-40yo vines planted in limestone-clay soils and he looks to pick fully ripe grapes to make this wine. Destalked by hand, the whole grapes are crushed and macerated for five weeks with a few remontages at the start. The élevage then follows in older barrels for two years, and the wine is not racked, fined, filtered or sulphured. There is a lovely red cherry fruit, the wine is silky and elegant, feeling very close to fresh-cut grapes.
Laurent Barth Wines
RACINES MÉTISSES 2018
55% Pinot Auxerrois, 15% Muscat, 15% Riesling, 10% Pinot Gris, 5% Gewürztraminer
55% Pinot Auxerrois, 15% Muscat, 15% Riesling, 10% Pinot Gris, 5% Gewürztraminer (13.5% alc, 12g/l of rs)
A blend of all the major Alsatian varietals (usually called Edelzwicker), ‘racines’ means roots and ‘métisses’ mixed breeds. From 12yo vines planted on light alluvial soils, it is vinified in cuve to retain maximum freshness; fragrant on the nose with notes of citrus and honey, it is off-dry on the palate but still with racy acidity and persistent length.
MUSCAT D’ALSACE 2016
95% Muscat d’Alsace, 5% Muscat Ottonel
95% Muscat d’Alsace, 5% Muscat Ottonel (13% alc)
Laurent crafts this excellent dry wine from three tiny parcels (averaging 40yo) including from the Grand Cru Marckrain (limestone-clay) and lower slope Grand Cru Schlossberg (granite). Foudre aged, it has excellent balance, feels very close to fresh grapes with a hint of jasmine, good texture and freshness, with a mineral stamp on the finish.
PINOT D’ALSACE 2017
95% Pinot Auxerrois, 5% Pinot Gris
95% Pinot Auxerrois, 5% Pinot Gris (13.5% alc.)
Mostly auxerrois with a touch of pinot gris for good measure this is fruit-forward even though bone-dry, the mouthfeel is dynamic and underpinned by refreshing ripe lime flavours. A lovely wine for everyday drinking.
S05 P164 2017
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc)
The cadastral number S05 P164 refers to two blocks of 40 to 50yo vines located above the Marckrain GC, planted in clayey marls and facing north-east. Laurent destalks all of his pinots according to the density of the initial juice, on this occasion he destemmed 50% of the grapes, by hand using a ‘tamis’ or mesh to avoid any crushing, and laid them down at the bottom of the cuve under the whole bunches. Following fermentation and well-judged pigeages the wine is aged just under a year, in three to four years old barriques, before being bottled with 25 to 30mg/l total of sulphur. This is an extremely elegant pinot with a soft texture balanced by fresh tannins, crushed wild strawberries, black pepper and menthol make for an enticing and complex bouquet. For drinking now to 2025.
M. S08 P93 2017
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc)
The Marckrain GC extends from the Mambourg GC, and curves east on sedimentary marno-calcaire soils where Laurent’s 40yo vines benefit from the morning sun and afternoon shade. This wine is vinified in the same way as the S05 P164, and the élevage occurs in younger barrels (2-3yo). The Marckrain with its active limestone makes for structured and age-worthy wines, and this pinot is multi-layered, almost southern in style with spicy flavours and distinctive aromas of blackberry and liquorice. For drinking now to 2030.
André Thomas Wines
SAND 2016
100% Pinot Blanc
100% Pinot Blanc (13% alc)
François Thomas has now been joined by his son and daughter, Gilles and Suzy, and they have been given the freedom to produce a few cuvées as they wish. This is one, a fine pinot blanc from 50yo vines on the famed hillside of Kaefferkopf (Sand is the name of the lieu-dit) where there is a sandy topsoil derived from the granitic mother rock. They have aged the wine on its fine lees in old foudres for a year, without adding sulphur at any point, and bottled it unfined and unfiltered (there is the tiniest touch of haze in the pale gold colour). There is a reserve on the nose initially, but acacia honey notes gradually emerge, and on the palate, it has a fine depth of confit citrus fruit. An excellent natural wine.
PETITS GRAINS 2016
100% Pinot Gris
100% Pinot Gris (13.5% alc, 28.7g/l of rs)
Aromas fairly leap out of the glass. It’s a rich yet restrained wine with pear, apples and exotic fruit flavours with a hint of spice.
Léon Boesch Wines
LES PIERRES ROUGES 2022
100% Sylvaner
100% Sylvaner (12.5% alc.)
Matthieu produces this wine from vines averaging 30yo on gentle south facing hillsides with a sandstone/limestone base. Fermented dry it’s a really attractive 'vin de plaisir', perfect to drink as an aperitif. On the nose you find hints of mandarin, mint and white flowers, and the palate is zesty and racy, with pears showing on the finish.
LA CABANE 2022
70% Pinot Auxerrois, 30% Pinot Blanc
70% Pinot Auxerrois, 30% Pinot Blanc (12% alc.)
Biodynamic viticulture here for east-facing vines on sandstone and clay. It has clear cut, zesty, lemon fruit with a hint of ginger. Matthieu has gradually reduced sulphur levels and this is now a low 35mg/l total. Pure pleasure for everyday-drinking.
LE COQ 2020
100% Pinot Gris
100% Pinot Gris (13% alc.)
An excellent example that is much drier than almost all other village pinot gris. It has an attractive pale gold colour, a spicy nose with hint of passion fruit, very good texture, with ripe fruits, lemon grass, cinnamon and cardamom flavours enhanced by a mineral lift on the finish.
LES GRANDES LIGNES 2022
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (13% alc.)
25yo vines planted in sandstone-clay soil above a limestone bedrock, the really long row (hence the cuvée name) are on an east facing hillside. A delicious wine with ripe citrus fruits that are cosseted by good acidity with a saline hint on the long finish.
LUSS 2022
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (12% alc.)
30yo biodynamic vines planted in a limestone soil on an east facing hillside. Almost painfully mineral on the palate, very dry, with grapefruit flavours and a touch of ginger, this is so good.
BREITENBERG 2020
100% Riesling
100% Riesling (12% alc.)
Matthieu decided to stop making a Riesling Grand Cru from Zinnkoepflé as the terroir there was so much better suited to gewürztraminer. Instead the top riesling from the domaine comes from 30yo vines at the western end of the Vallée Noble, where the vines are planted in a sandy topsoil with many fossils of ferns set in the sandstone below. It’s a windy, cooler spot here where the grapes are harvested late despite a south facing hillside. You find stony, floral notes on the nose, the fruit is dense and tautly chiselled by the minerality typical of the soil, and on the finish, there is a distinct salinity, herbal and grilled almond notes. For drinking now to 2030+.
LES FOUS 2022
100% Gewürztraminer
100% Gewürztraminer (12.5% alc.)
Boesch’s gewürztraminer shows the brilliant side of this grape when it is restrained by enough acidity. It beguiles with its rose, lychees and peach aromas, has good weight with freshness on the palate, and a gently spicy finish.
ZINNKOEPFLÉ GRAND CRU 2020
100% Gewürztraminer
100% Gewürztraminer (13.5% alc.)
Zinnkoepflé is a steep due-south facing hillside of limestone and sandstone that is especially suited to growing exceptional gewürztraminer. Half of the vines were planted in 1920, and the other half average 50yo. Bone-dry this is a powerful, dense and structured wine, combining good tension and delicious fruit: lychee and mango, with a notable dash of nutmeg and liquorice. Large to start with, this extraordinary wine has a very long and taut finish with distinct lip-smacking saltiness. For drinking now to 2030.
LES JARDINS 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
30yo vines here (and yields of 50hh) produce this delicious pinot noir made from 100% whole bunches and a limestone dominant soil. Aged in 7-25yo 228ltr barrels, well balanced with crunchy red fruits and fine tannins. Sulphur level around 25mg/l total.
ZINNKOEPFLÉ GRAND CRU 2018
Vendanges Tardives
100% Gewürztraminer
100% Gewürztraminer (13% alc, 121g/l of rs)
This excellent Vendanges Tardives was harvested in two 'sorties' in early October and late November. It’s an exquisite wine with complex aromas of nougat, grilled almond, stewed lemons, pine. On the palate it is at once both sumptuous and silky with perfectly ripe peach and mango fruit, and an incredibly long finish, that stays fresh with a saline hint. For drinking now to 2030+.
Lucien Aviet & Fils Wines
ARBOIS 2022
Cuvée des Docteurs
100% Melon à Queue Rouge
100% Melon à Queue Rouge (14% alc.)
Melon à queue rouge is an ancient strain of chardonnay (here from 50yo vines) grown by only three top producers in Arbois and Montigny. Aged in old foudres for 18 months and topped up, this has a pale gold colour, the mouthfeel of a fine white burgundy, restrained citrus fruits, a good cut of acidity, and is very saline on the finish.
ARBOIS 2016
Réserve du Caveau
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (15.5% alc.)
This was a stand-out at a recent tasting with Vincent. Given just as long barrel ageing (over six years) under voile as a Vin Jaune, Vincent deemed that this wine should not go into his Vin Jaune which had even more power and depth (does a wine really need any more?!) and will prove indestructible to time. Without quite the same power but with just as much class, this has a silkier mouthfeel and is easier to drink and perhaps more versatile with food. Notably truffley and walnuty, with a saline cut, it marries very well with white meats, sauces with a cream base, mushrooms and Comté cheese. An incredible bargain when compared to Vin Jaune pricing. For drinking now to 2060.
ARBOIS VIN JAUNE 2011
Cuvée de la Confrérie
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (16% alc.)
The golden coloured 2011 Arbois Vin Jaune is a selection of the domaine’s finest barrels of savagnin matured sous voile for seven years or more. Picked at 14% alcohol, the long élevage concentrates the alcohol. This is a textbook example of the style with aromas of curry, chicken broth, green walnuts and mushrooms. This has more volume, length and complexity than the domaine’s Réserve du Caveau, but at the same time, it's delicate and nuanced. Only 1,000 bottles were filled with this great Vin Jaune, which is guaranteed to develop beautifully in bottle. For drinking now to 2100.
ARBOIS 2020
Ruzard – Rosière
100% Trousseau
100% Trousseau (14.5% alc.)
A blend of the two parcels Rosière and Ruzard which also get bottled separately. Both are south-facing vineyards in Montigny-les-Arsures with similar terroir: light, gravelly soil with 'argile à chailles' (flinty clay) – Trousseau's most suited type of soil. Ruzard is higher up on the hill from Rosière and makes leaner wines compared to the deep and age-worthy Rosière bottlings. Altogether the vines range from 10 to 60yo. The latest bottlings are much richer and less angular than in the past (global warming), this has a delicate, mid-red colour, refreshing red cherry and cranberry fruit with real purity of expression and mineral stamp. For drinking now to 2030+.
ARBOIS 2019
Marne Rouge
100% Trousseau
100% Trousseau (13.5% alc.)
35yo vines on grey marls exposed 'plein sud'. Always a lovely texture and good balance, depth of fruit with a nice little lift on the finish. Vinified and aged (12 months) in foudres this is usually the second wine in the trousseau line-up, in a different league to Ruzard and often shown right before the top gun Rosière. During one of our visit Lucien noted that this particular cuvée (terroir) goes 'viande' after 5-6 years in bottle, referring to the developed and enticing meaty flavours. For drinking now to 2030.
Jacques Puffeney Wines
ARBOIS VIN JAUNE 2011
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (14% alc.)
Vin Jaune is the Jura’s real speciality, from late-harvested savagnin, pressed and aged under a veil of yeast in old oak for six years, then assembled and aged in foudre for a further year. It is bottled without filtration in a distinctive ‘clavelin’ bottle with a long neck and hunched shoulders, which holds 62cl – the volume that is said to remain out of one litre of wine following six years of slow and steady evaporation. Superb partner to rich, creamy dishes with mushrooms such as morels, it has a flavour similar to an aged amontillado sherry, with walnut and truffley tones, and the longer you keep it the more complex and resonant it becomes. For drinking now to 2100!
ARBOIS 2016
Les Bérangères
100% Trousseau
100% Trousseau (13% alc.)
After selling most of his vines in 2014 Jacques continued to make tiny quantities of trousseau up until the 2017 vintage, and we are very fortunate to have secured a small allocation from 2016 and 2017, which we will release when the wines start to open up. It comes from 35yo vines planted in loose, gravelly soil on a southeast-facing slope, perfect for the trousseau grape which demands very dry conditions to give its best. Classic pale colour similar to pinot noir, a touch more weight and depth of fruit than poulsard, with mulberries, raspberries, a hint of spice and mineral cut. According to Jacques, you need to exercise a little patience - as the wine ages it picks up weight and length on the palate and is at its very best at five to six years old. For drinking now to 2026.
Les Granges Pâquenesses Wines
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
100% Trousseau
100% Trousseau (13% alc.)
30yo vines planted on a south facing vineyard with gravelly topsoil near the Château-Chalon village of Voiteur. This is cuve aged only, a beautiful play on reduction with great balance and energy, mulberry fruit, typical hint of spice, and salinity on the finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2021
Le Plou
100% Poulsard
100% Poulsard (12% alc.)
Loreline has a tiny plot of 40yo vines in red marl soils on the fine hillside of La Côte de Feule in Pupillin. Destalked by hand, the grapes are not crushed and are fermented whole during a 20-days fermentation under carbon dioxide. Aged in cuve it has a very pale pinot colour, a subtle teasing quality on the palate, fresh red fruits, spices, hint of game and a good bite on the finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
La Mamette
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This comes from 40-50yo vines planted just south of Arbois in a soil which is essentially marl but also contains some limestone. Aged in topped up 3-5yo barrels for 15 months, this is an elegant, racy wine, with a hint of menthol on the nose, and on the palate offers citrus fruits with a marked refreshing mineral cut.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2019
La Pierre
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13% alc.)
La Pierre is the name of the lieu-dit in Pupillin, where the 25yo vines are planted in a light, sandy soil. This is a notably elegant style of ouillé (topped-up) savagnin which shows its supreme versatility as a food wine. Aged in 3-5yo barrels this has zesty lime on the nose, there is a perfect play of fruit and acidity on the palate, with stewed lemons, menthol hint, spice and characteristic salinity and attractive bitters on the finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
La Pierre Renaissance
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13.5% alc.)
Losing most of her production in 2017 led Loreline to reconsider the élevage of all her wines. She decided that some barrels of her topped up La Pierre merited an extra year in barrel – Renaissance seems denser and richer but still has that electric vein of acidity and twist of bitters and salinity on the finish that make topped up savagnin such an exciting wine.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2012
La Pierre Sous Voile
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (12.5% alc.)
Loreline has displayed admirable patience waiting for this excellent oxidative wine, giving it five years élevage ‘sous voile’ in older barrels. It was aged in a draughty attic on the first floor of her farm whose doors are opened to the elements throughout the year. It is a delicate style of oxidative wine – too often the oxidation can be a little overwhelming – but here the fruit feels very detailed, with fresh walnut and truffley notes mingling with stewed lemons and bitters with a refreshing cut. For drinking now to 2030.
CRÉMANT DU JURA
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
35yo vines here from a vineyard south of Arbois near where Mamette is produced. It is flatter here, towards the bottom of the hill and the soil is very clayey. 100% from the 2016 vintage, the wine was cuve aged before bottling off with no fining or filtration with a low 20g/l for the secondary fermentation that provides a very gentle mousse. Sulphur was only added to the juice at the press and is less than 20 mg/l, and so the juice has a very pure relaxed quality. Showing gorgeous fruit, bitters and cut, this is one of the most exciting sparkling wines that we have ever tasted, and it’s better than many champagnes.
Les Dolomies Wines
LES COMBES 2022
Vin de France
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (14% alc.)
The original plot bought through Terre de Liens, the lieu-dit Les Combes is a stunning coteau with heavy and clayey red marlstone. As for most of the vines in Passenans, they were replanted in the 60s – relatively old vines that yield fruits of great depth and intensity. Aged in concrete vats for 2/3 as well as old barrels. A classy chardonnay that combines power and elegance with a depth of flavours that would make some top burgundy producers envious.
LES GRANDVAUX 2020
Vin de France
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (14% alc.)
Located in Passenans, the combe des Grandvaux is adjacent to and as qualitative as the terroir Les Combes. Naturally low yielding 50yo vines grow on brown and red marls, giving a tightly wound, dense wine with lip-smacking spicy flavours, and a chalky almost chewy finish.
LA CHAUX 2018
Vin de France
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13 % alc.)
35yo vines on marls with rocky limestone scree, a steep south-west facing hillside in Nevy-sur-Seille (lieu-dit La Chaux) – a village entitled to the Château-Chalon AC for many of its vineyards. Aged for ten months, the terroir cuts through the incredibly pure zesty fruit, with roasted almond notes, and the low yields give the wine resonance and intensity.
ARCO 2022
Vin de France
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (14% alc.)
35yo vines on stony marls in Nevy-sur-Seille lieu-dit La Chaux. Arco is the name of one of the two donkeys that help the team, during harvest, on that particularly rocky and steep slope. This is a sensational wine expressing a rapier cut of acidity and vibrant citrus flavours, with bitters and an intense mineral, saline impression on the finish.
CROIX SARRANT 2022
Vin de France
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13.5% alc.)
A tiny 0.3 ha 20yo vineyard in Château-Chalon on stony limestone-rich marl, this is a special terroir tucked away, up a cool and humid combe surrounded by a lush and biodiverse forest. Taken over in 2012 the vines have never seen any chemicals, they are ploughed by horse, and the only two neighbours are vignerons friends sharing the same sustainable approach. Packed with jolting acids and a dense texture it is reminiscent of a perfectly ripe apricot with salivating bitters, vanilla bean and fresh almond aromas sustaining a lengthy finish. Une grande bouteille.
LA CABANE 2022
Vin de France
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Situated in Fontenay, a village neighbouring Passenans, the vines are planted on argilo-calcaire, a warmer soil compared to marlstone. Known as the lieu-dit Les Boutonniers this is where the Gormallys have recently planted more trousseau and chardonnay. Bright and crunchy this pinot displays noble herbal flavours with bramble fruit and refreshing rustic tannins.
BORDEL C'EST BON 2022
Vin de France
100% Trousseau
100% Trousseau (13.5% alc.)
The wine and label are a tribute (hommage) to a close friend Gabi who passed away and was a successful cartoonist for the newspapers Le Monde and Le Canard Enchainé. Gabi's line 'bordel c’est bon' can be translated into 'god that's good' (polite version), and indeed it is! The grapes come from Les Combes, fully destalked and vinified without SO2, this is juicy and joyful with a lovely peppery black fruit.
Domaine Macle Wines
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2017
Ouillé
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
Laurent produces just a few barrels of this topped-up (ouillé) chardonnay, and such is the density and structure in the wine (25hh) that it needs an extra-long élevage, usually around three years. From north-facing vineyards in Château-Chalon in a limestone-clay soil, the wine is rich but balanced, and has stewed lemons and almond flavours with characteristic sapidity on the finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
Chardonnay Sous Voile
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (14% alc.)
A recent addition to the Macle line up – Laurent makes this oxidative wine from 50yo chardonnay vines planted in limestone clay soils on Château-Chalon’s north facing slope (like his chardonnay ouillé). Vinified and aged under flor for three years, this wine is more subtle and forward than the traditional oxidative chardonnay/savagnin blend, displaying a notable morel flavour with attractive spices and finishing quite saline. For drinking now to 2028+.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2009
50% Savagnin, 50% Chardonnay
50% Savagnin, 50% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
Another experimental cuvée made by Laurent, an interesting blend of savagnin aged in cuve that didn’t develop a voile, and chardonnay aged in barrel under flor. Blended and bottled in 2013, it has complex flavours of stewed citrus, spices and nutty, balsamic notes that remind us of oloroso sherry. Round and smooth texture with a lengthy finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
Tradition
85% Chardonnay, 15% Savagnin
85% Chardonnay, 15% Savagnin (14% alc.)
This oxidative cuvée shows what an incredible effect just 15% of savagnin can have on overall flavour. After a year of normal fermentation and ageing in cuve, this wine was then transferred into 50yo barrels and aged under flor for three years. It’s by far and away the best example of this style of wine (aged under flor) that we have tried, with a silky texture and notable terroir print on the finish. It is very complex, with floral notes, beeswax, acacia honey, walnut and almond, a good weight and subtle bitters on the finish. It’s easy to drink and has a surprising versatility with food (it’s brilliant with sushi and sashimi). There aren't too many other whites in the world that will still be going strong as this in 30yrs, we recently enjoyed a stunning 1989 at the domaine! For drinking now to 2040+.
CHÂTEAU-CHALON 2011
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (14.5% alc.)
This vin jaune is Macle’s speciality and a profound wine of the highest class. 2011 was a "trés beau millésime" with quality and quantity per Laurent, a classic vintage. The elegant and long-lived 2011 was vinified in cuve for a year, then transferred into old barrels and aged 'sous voile' for a further six years, where the aromas and flavours are all naturally amplified. Incredibly complex, on the nose you note stewed prunes, figs, chestnut and straw, and on the attack there is a tension between richness and acidity, with the terroir for the moment slightly hidden, and then sustained bitters on the incredibly long finish. We wouldn’t touch a bottle until it was a minimum ten years old – we tried a sensational bottle of the 1982 at the domaine that was still young. VLQ. Some serving advice from Laurent – never, ever carafe or serve too cold, it’s best around 17/18°C and opened the day before drinking. For drinking now to 2100!
MACVIN DU JURA
50% Chardonnay, 50% Savagnin
50% Chardonnay, 50% Savagnin (17.5% alc, 120g/l of rs)
Macvin is made by adding about a third grape marc to freshly pressed grape juice (which may have just started fermenting) The Macle family go a step further than normal by using their own marc, which is a blend of savagnin and chardonnay and aged for seven years – most marcs are commercially purchased three-year-old spirit. You can clearly taste the two grapes in this exceptional example (which was barrel aged for four years), chardonnay’s citrus fruits, and the richer more structured savagnin with stewed lemons and ripe grapefruit on the nose and more exotic fruit like papaya on the palate. Best with desserts or simply enjoyed by itself at the end of a meal, served at 8°C.
Les Marnes Blanches Wines
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
Les Molates
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Lieu-dit Les Molates, assemblage of different parcels on Lias marls in Gevingey (2.3ha), 35yo vines (on average) facing west. Aged in foudres with no bâtonnage, it was bottled in July the following year. This is a very well-balanced wine, with zesty lemony fruit and is the first of the Marnes Blanches chardonnays to open out.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
Les Molates
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13% alc.)
In the village of Gevingey, lieu-dit Les Molates (as per the chardonnay), 0.7ha of 25yo savagnin jaune vines. Aged in old foudres for 11 months, it is spot on with classic confit lemon flavours and notable bitters on the finish. Intensity, density and length typical of savagnin ouillé from the Sud-Revermont.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2021
En Quatre Vis
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
A selection of west-facing 50yo vines in shallow Lias marls in Cesancey. This wine, formerly called Vieilles Vignes, was aged in 500ltr barrels for two years (mise tardive, see profile) and is denser, more powerful, complex and age-worthy than Molates.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
En Quatre Vis
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13% alc.)
Savagnin vert variety that comes from the same Cesancey 40yo vineyard as the chardonnay En Quatre Vis. A stunning age-worthy wine with drive and tension, Géraud comments that the acid backbone is typical of the savagnin vert strain. Aged in foudres and concrete eggs for a year, it has exceptional balance, real class, and a spicier nose compared to Les Molates. On the palate, it offers stewed citrus fruits and gentle bitters on a lengthy finish. For drinking now to 2030.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
Les Normins
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
One of Marnes Blanches’ top wines, Les Normins is made from 65yo vines on iron-rich, fossilised red limestone in the village of Vincelles. The limestone gives an extra peps, energy and class to the wine, that was aged in 5yo 500ltr barrels for two years. It has a briny, iodine quality, and a buttery fruit that puts one in mind of serious wine from the Côte de Beaune. For drinking now to 2028.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
En Levrette
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
60yo vines from old massal selection, tip top 'matériel végétal' as per the nearby Les Normins. Top of the coteau in the lieu-dit En Levrette, there's not much topsoil with the roots getting deep into the iron-rich limestone bedrock. Two years ageing in old foudres and 500ltr barrels. Another class wine from Pauline and Géraud, deep and textural with lovely limestone-induced bitters, a lengthy and complex finish on vanilla pods and confit citrus flavours. For drinking now to 2028.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
Aux Bois
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13% alc.)
Aux Bois is located in the village of Vincelles as per Les Normins and En Levrette. This wine is made from south-facing vines planted in 2014 with top massal selections of savagnin vert and jaune from Arbois. A small proportion of old vines from a tiny neighbouring plot gets into the blend. Two years ageing on fine lees in 7-12yo 228ltr barrels. An impactful savagnin that retains minerality and typicity despite the young vines, this cuvée will become a reference at the domaine in the years to come.
VIN JAUNE 2015
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (14% alc.)
Savagnin jaune from Les Molates lieu-dit (see white wines). Aged in 10 to 20yo 228ltr barrels, stored on the first floor of their house with windows opened to the elements throughout the year, it was bottled after almost 7 years sous voile. This is an elegant, forward and 'user-friendly' style of Vin Jaune, with excellent fruit that is not covered up by the oxidative notes. You can drink the wines with great pleasure in their youth, but they’ll age too and develop extra complexity – an amazing value for money.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
100% Poulsard
100% Poulsard (12% alc.)
Young vines planted with a massal selection from Domaine Overnoy (Orbagna) that was originally planted with poulsard from Pierre Overnoy (Pupillin). 100% whole bunches, 15 days semi-carbo maceration, ageing in old foudres and bottling without SO2. The wine offers an herbal and fresh nose, a round and floral mouthfeel with ripe strawberries and pink peppercorn flavours. This is a characterful poulsard with low ABV and high drinkability.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
100% Trousseau
100% Trousseau (12% alc.)
Young vines planted in 2014 in the different terroir and villages. Géraud made a tiny quantity, enhancing freshness of fruit via whole bunches and a short cuvaison of 10/12 days. A very pale colour, extraction was clearly very delicate, but the wine has weight and some grip, and a very perfumed retro-nasal quality.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
The plots are in the En Quatre Vis lieu-dit (see white wines), one 40yo parcel as well as vines planted in 2017/18. Vinified, aged and bottled as per the other two reds from Marnes Blanches. Pale-coloured, it is juicy, fresh and vibrant with high-toned red fruits and herbal flavours.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2014
Vin de Paille
50% Savagnin, 50% Chardonnay
50% Savagnin, 50% Chardonnay (14% alc, 90g/l of rs)
After drying the grapes on beds of straw in small wooden baskets in their ‘grenier’, Gérard and Pauline pressed the raisin like grapes at the end of winter, and fermentation then ticked away slowly in old barrels during a three-year élevage. Sometimes we find too much alcohol burn in vin de paille but this example is well-balanced offering a lovely freshness, with sumptuous quince and orange marmalade flavours. For drinking to 2024.
Domaine Labet Wines
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
La Bardette
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
Before you hit limestone, where you find lots of fossils and seashells, there’s only 40 to 60cm of clay here. This together with old vines planted in 1947 gives a chiselled, beautifully balanced wine despite the notable power of 2018. Long ageing on fine lees helped taming the beast. It has many of the qualities you would expect in a top Puligny, deep layered texture with menthol hints that make you salivate. This is one of the Labet family’s finest terroirs.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2016
Champs Rouges
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This is one of the family’s larger parcels of 1.2 ha of 45yo vines, planted in a red clay soil overlying a layer of Bajocian limestone on a west-facing hillside. It was aged 70% in old fûts and 30% in demi-muids with a pinch of SO2 added at bottling. The old vines convey real energy to this wine, there are a good drive and tension on the palate, and the finish is sustained and mineral.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
En Chalasse
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (14.5% alc.)
This wine comes from three tiny parcels in marl with a Lias blue clay base, on a south-facing slope. The most recent plantation was in 2006, together with 0.18 ha planted in 1985 and 0.05 ha in 1950. This is quintessential Jura chardonnay, given 20 months of élevage in fûts with 7mg/l of total sulphur. It is quite structured in this vintage and will age well, with an intensity to the fruit that gives energy on the attack, good depth of citrus fruits on the mid-palate and both lift and length on the finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2019
Les Varrons
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.3% alc.)
The Labet’s Varrons is made from an ancient massal selection (including some melon à queue rouge) planted in 1932 and 1940 in decalcified, ochre-coloured clay over Bajocien limestone on a mid-slope facing east. The wine was given an extended élevage in old demi-muids. It has a very fine reduction on the nose, a mineral vibration on the attack, pithy, pingy citrus fruits on the palate, and the finish is sustained and intensifies.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2016
La Reine
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
La Reine is a tiny parcel of 0.16 ha of massal selected vines planted in 1947 in a red clay soil overlying Bajocien limestone on a gentle, north-facing slope. It's often one of the leading wines made by the domaine, and in 2016 it is stunning, with a lot of class, thanks partly to very low yields of just 20hh. It has a hint of reduction on the nose that soon wafts off, very composed succulent fruit with a fantastic, almost electric play on the palate, and is markedly saline on the finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
En Chalasse
75% Savagnin Jaune, 25% Savagnin Vert
75% Savagnin Jaune, 25% Savagnin Vert (14.4% alc.)
1.11ha planted in 1990 and 2003 on Lias blue marl, the wine was aged 22 months in a mix of demi-muid, fût and concrete egg. Very intense nose of hazelnut and warm stone with a hint of lemon. The mouth is lively, with very good acidity, hint of saffron and a little creaminess on the palate which brings even more volume to the wine. The finish is very long, dry with a salty and stewed lemon character. SO2 total 20mg/l, addition at bottling only.
VIN DE FRANCE 2020
Métis
45% Pinot Noir, 23% Gamay, 16% Enfariné, 16% Vieux cépages
45% Pinot Noir, 23% Gamay, 16% Enfariné, 16% Vieux cépages (13% alc.)
Métis, meaning mixed race, is a cuvée that has hit new levels of quality over the last couple of years. It's always a wine whose components will vary from year to year and includes a handful of forgotten old Jura varieties such as enfariné and petit béclan. Aged in 228ltr barrels for nine months and bottled off in July with less than 20mg/l total sulphur, extraction as with all the Labet reds is incredibly delicate. The fruit feels very detailed and precise, with a sappy 'acidulé' quality, and the mix of grapes brings complexity, leaving a gorgeous impression of fresh fruit on the finish.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
Les Varrons
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Made from a Bajocian limestone base and low yields from a tiny parcel massal selected and planted in 1983. It was aged in old barrels for seven months and bottled off with less than 7mg/l of total sulphur. The fruit has a sculpted quality, it’s floral with zesty cherries and salinity with incredible finesse.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
En Billat
100% Poulsard
100% Poulsard (12.5% alc.)
Labet’s rarest and most haunting expression of poulsard, this comes from a 0.31 ha parcel called Le Pré du Bief planted in 1988 that has an eastern exposure and Lias clay and schist soils. Destemmed but not crushed, the grapes are vinified very gently, with very little pigeage, to respect poulsard’s delicate structure. Ageing takes place in old foudres and no sulphur was added at any stage. The nose is bright and expressive, showing none of reductive notes that plague so many poulsards, it’s finely nuanced on the palate, showing a beautiful interplay between fruit, spice and savoury notes. Simply one of the finest examples in the region.
PAILLE PERDUE 2011
One third each Chardonnay, Savagnin and Poulsard
One third each Chardonnay, Savagnin and Poulsard (10% alc, 215g/l of rs)
The Labet family make this unique cuvée from a selection of old vines, leaving the bunches of grapes on a straw bed in wooden boxes to shrivel up to a raisin-like intensity. Pressed in late February it was then aged in old barrels for six years (three more than the legal minimum for vin de paille). Julien pointed out that due to using natural yeasts that only gave 10% natural alcohol and a much greater concentration of sugars than the norm, this wine did not fulfil the AOC criteria for a vin de paille (eg minimum 14% alc). The colour is reminiscent of toffee, it has sumptuous fruit – hints of passion fruit, walnuts, straw with a very long finish sustained by a precious and well-integrated VA.
Allante & Boulanger Wines
SAVAGNIN 2020
Vin de France
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13% alc.)
Mathieu and Christian recovered a historical terroir in Gizia at 400-450m altitude, turning a once-prestigious south-facing amphitheatre from fallow land to cultivated field – this is located right next to Vigne Au Daim where Almagamé also comes from. From 2011 to 2013, they planted savagnin vert and jaune on grey marlstone and schist 'carton' (laminated shale). Aged for two years in old 228ltr barrels, this is vibrant, deep and rich, with a perfectly pitched oxidation and schist-induced salt which makes for a versatile wine – perfect for food matching.
VIGNE AU DAIM 2020
Vin de France
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
45yo chardonnay on grey marl and schist 'carton' (laminated shale) in the village of Gizia. Directly and slowly pressed, the wine fermented and aged for 24 months in old barrels of different sizes. The name 'Vigne au Daim' is a reference to the many deer visiting the parcel, an area teeming with wildlife. The 450m altitude and cool nights bring lovely acids and length to the wine, a dynamism amplified by the salty minerals of the local schist.
AMALGAMÉ 2020
Vin de France
35% Petit Béclan, 25% Gamay, 20% Poulsard, 10% Trousseau, 10% Pinot Noir
35% Petit Béclan, 25% Gamay, 20% Poulsard, 10% Trousseau, 10% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
The cuvée Almagamé comes from the plot Vigne Au Daim in Gizia – Christian and Mathieu took over the parcel from a local elder in 2011 and co-planted many different varieties. "Virtually extinct Jura vine" is how Jancis, Julia and José describe the petit béclan in their book of reference Wine Grapes. Planted with some gamay, pinot, trousseau, and poulsard on a steep slope, its small bunches and thick skin bring rusticity to this unique Jura blend. Totally destemmed and co-fermented, aged in 300ltr barriques for 12 months, it has a dense and grippy structure with ripe black fruit and moreish acids.
PHENOMAYNAL 2020
Vin de France
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
90yo chardonnay on red marl over 'éboulis calcaires' in the village of Maynal (south of Rotalier on the way to Gizia). Christian and Mathieu took the plot over in 2005 at the start of their project – it was previously worked by their mate Fanfan (JF Ganevat). Fermentation and 24 months ageing on fine lees in 10yo demi-muids. This wine has a moreish and voluptuous texture perfectly balanced by zingy bitters. The emblematic and catchy label was drawn by a close friend, the depicted hand combines the sensual and feminine side of wine with the rough manual work of a vigneron(ne).
LA CHÈVRE 2020
Vin de France
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
Lieu-dit La Chèvre – 0.2ha of 90yo vines on white/grey marls perched atop a ridge above Rotalier. The low-yielding vines are not producing much grapes but the resulting wine has exceptional concentration and depth, the well-judged 24-month élevage in demi-muids helped bring focus and drive to this stunning orange wine (skin-contact in 2020 as opposed to 2019).
SOUS POIDS 2020
Vin de France
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
From the lieu-dit Patarate in Rotalier, 80yo vines on shallow grey marl over a limestone bedrock. Vinified and aged in wooden foudres for 20 months before being bottled "naked" i.e. without sulphites added – the label depict a certain vision of naturism or nudism in wine, beware mature audience only! Sapidity characterises this bottling with well-integrated VA that make a convincing case for umami in wine.
LA BARDE 2018
Vin de France
70% Chardonnay, 30% Savagnin
70% Chardonnay, 30% Savagnin (13% alc.)
La Barde aka La Bardette is a prestigious lieu-dit and fine terroir in Sud-Revermont (think Domaine Labet). The 90yo vines are planted on shallow red clay topsoil over hard limestone in which many fossilized seashells can be found. Vinified and aged in 228ltr barrels for 24 months, the savagnin spices up the chiselled and beautifully balanced chardonnay, adding impact and depth to the blend – a powerful wine perfectly framed by savoury minerals.
Domaine Overnoy Wines
CRÉMANT DU JURA 2020
80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir
80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Bottled at 5.5 bar pressure, it spent 18 months 'sur lattes' before disgorgement. Zero dosage. Fine and subtle bubbles underpin complex aromas of red fruits and citrus, the mouth is well-balanced, round and fresh with a long and saline finish. This beautiful crémant would give some champagnes a run for their money. A rosé version is also made with the addition of some pinot noir still wine bringing a plush texture to the wine.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2021
Charmille
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The vines are planted on red marl (with high clay content) in Orbagna, lieu-dit En Poinot. Grapes are directly pressed, fermentation in stainless steel, extended élevage of 24 months in 228 and 500ltr barriques, and bottling without filtration. 0.5g/hl SO2 added at press only – around 20mg/l total eventually. Round and creamy this chardonnay is a crowd-pleaser with spices and caramelised pear aromas.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
Vigne Derrière
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
0.2ha planted in 2001 by Guillaume's father in Cesancey on white and grey marls (high limestone content). Vinified, aged for 22 months, and bottled as per Charmille. This is dense and textural, terroir-driven with limestone induced bitters and structure. A step up in term of depth and complexity (compared to Charmille) although it retains the same moreish element.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
Clos Jerminy
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
This bottling comes from 2ha of 40-50yo vines above the village of Beaufort (the commune neighbouring Orbagna) on a stunning coteau known as the Clos Jerminy – the vines are surrounded by forest and a pond teeming with wildlife sits mid-slope. The wine is vinified and aged as per the cuvée Charmille, it beautifully combines freshness and texture with lengthy and complex aromas – a complete wine from top terroir!
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2020
Au Vignet
100% Chardonnay Muscaté
100% Chardonnay Muscaté (13% alc.)
A strain of chardonnay called 'muscaté' for its enticing aromatics, it also has a darker pinkish skin. Guillaume found this rare strain among old vines and decided to propagate it through massal selection – he planted Au Vignet in 2015. Vinified as per the reds in the range, it macerated for 18 days (grapes were not crushed), and was then aged for two years in old barrels. Aromatic and opulent, it is lifted by fresh tannins inducing lovely bitters and salivation. A surprising and extremely enjoyable wine. Around 20mg/l SO2 total.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2019
Savagnin Ouillé
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13% alc.)
0.8ha over three parcels in Orbagna (En Poinot) and Cesancey. Aged for three years in old 500ltrs barrels and regularly topped-up (ouillé) throughout the élevage. No SO2 added. A lovely savagnin that benefited from the long ageing on fine lees, the power has been tamed. Composed and relaxed, this has a umami-loaded mouthfeel, layers of spiced flavours, and high energy.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2018
Savagnin Typé
100% Savagnin
100% Savagnin (13% alc.)
The Jura expression "un vin typé" means the wine was aged sous voile (under flor) as opposed to "un vin naturé" that was ouillé (topped up throughout élevage). From the same 0.8ha as the savagnin ouillé, the wine was aged under flor for a good three years before being bottled off without sulphites. Deep and complex, this 'typé' has the perfect balance between fruit and 'goût de jaune' (flor flavours) – a stunning effort from Guillaume who displayed talent at a young age, he was 24yo then! N.B. A 'chardonnay vieilles vignes' version is also made in good vintages (e.g. 2019) and it's a banger too. The particularity of these 'typé' wines is that they are perfectly enjoyable in their youth (while ageing beautifully) as opposed to Vin Jaune that needs years in bottle before fully opening up.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Four parcels from 10 to 30yo in the villages of Cesancey and Beaufort-Orbagna. As per all reds at the domaine, grapes are manually destalked in the vineyard with a traditional 'crible' – a perforated wooden tray on which the bunches are rubbed – grapes are therefore not crushed. Two weeks cuvaison with gentle extraction, nine months ageing in barrels, three months 'en masse' in stainless steel with a homeopathic 0.5g/hl SO2 added, bottled unfiltered. Juicy, ripe and fragrant it displays moreish aromas of raspberries, morello cherries and wild roses.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2022
100% Trousseau
100% Trousseau (13% alc.)
Destemmed through the 'crible', aged and vinified as per the pinot noir, this wine was bottled at around 20mg/l of SO2 total. Lifted and nuanced with spiced fruit, this is an elegant wine with extra drinkability and sapidity, typical of a Sud-Revermont trousseau.
CÔTES-DU-JURA 2021
Rougissime
34% Poulsard, 33% Trousseau, 33% Pinot Noir
34% Poulsard, 33% Trousseau, 33% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
A traditional 'old-school' blend only made when yields are too low to bottle the three varieties separately. Destemmed, vinified and aged as per the other reds, the grapes were harvested and processed together. This is vibrant with enticing floral flavours, the poulsard adds a slight reduction and complexity to the blend while trousseau and pinot bring juicy texture and food-friendly tannins. A lovely wine quintessentially Jurassien!
Les Côtes Rousses Wines
LA PENTE 2022
100% Jacquère
100% Jacquère (11.5% alc.)
20 different parcels on steep slopes with limestone scree. Aged in 50% in foudres as well as sandstone amphoras and old barrels, the wine has a very pale colour and a dynamic mouthfeel. With low alcohol to boot it is the perfect wine to slate your thirst on a warm summer’s day. Nicolas comments it’s easy to work with low sulphur when the pH is as low as 3 – total SO2 of 18mg/l, only added before bottling.
ARMENAZ 2020
100% Jacquère
100% Jacquère (11% alc.)
Named after the mountain where Nicolas’ grandparents climbed their Tarantaise cattle during the summer. 0.5ha of stunning 30yo vines planted at 580m altitude, one of the highest and coolest parcels in the cru of St-Jean-de-la-Porte. Right at the outset, Nicolas commented that this foudre aged wine would need at least a year to begin opening out. It’s denser and richer than La Pente due to the rich ferrous clay on which the vines seat. Complex and attractive flavours of Sicilian lemon fruits cut through with a saline limestone twist, typical of this top terroir.
ENSEMBLE 2021
100% Altesse
100% Altesse (12.5% alc.)
The name of this cuvée gives thanks to all those who lent Nicolas and Marielle a hand with their first wines, a tribute to the collective energy around the domaine. Planted on the limestone hillsides of St-Jean-de-la-Porte, the vines range from young to 30yo and the wine was raised in different wooden vessels as well as sandstone amphoras which bring tension and a welcome reduction. There’s always more weight and spice to altesse wines, thankfully this bottling is lifted and fresh at the same time.
LES MONTAGNES ROUSSES 2021
100% Mondeuse
100% Mondeuse (11% alc.)
This is a cuvée named after the red clay typical of the famous mondeuse cru of St-Jean-de-la-Porte. 20yo vines, 100% whole bunches, very gentle extraction (see profile), ageing in terracotta and demi-muids to give the purest expression of the grape – black cherries, violets and spices, low alcohol, enticing rusticity, and a saline finish making this so easy to drink. 10 mg/l total SO2.
COTEAU DE LA MORT 2018
100% Mondeuse
100% Mondeuse (12% alc.)
The name of this cuvée (the coteau of death) refers to the steepness of the slope, reaching 40% in some parts, and how physically demanding it is to work. First planted by the Benedictine monks during the 11th century, this was prime terroir until it was abandoned in the 1930s, and only recently replanted (1999) at a density of 10,000 plants/ha. The red clay soils on a limestone base tend to give firmly structured wines built for ageing. Nicolas prefers the use of whole bunches, and there is no pigeage or remontage during a 14 days cuvaison to avoid over-extraction. The élevage takes place in demi-muids (including one Stockinger) for around ten months, the wine is bottled without fining or filtration and just 10mg/l of sulphur added. This is a very serious mondeuse, minty and peppery with a beautiful Chartreuse-like herbal quality, somewhat reminiscent of a fine northern Rhône syrah with its quality of tannins. Drink now to 2028.
Domaine Partagé Wines
CHIGNIN 2020
Le Jaja
100% Jacquère
100% Jacquère (11% alc.)
All white wines at Domaine Partagé are processed as follows: whole bunches, long gentle press of 4-5hr, fermentation and ageing in fibreglass, light filtration and 30mg/l SO2 total added pre-bottling around March the following year. Le Jaja comes from 0.7ha of 40yo vines planted in alluvial and clay soils overlying limestone on a SE facing hillside. Still light but pretty textural and deep for a jacquère – fleshy quince fruit, salinity and a chalky lift on the finish.
ROUSSETTE DE SAVOIE 2021
El Hem
100% Altesse
100% Altesse (12% alc.)
Vinification and élevage (in fibreglass eggs only) as per Le Jaja cuvée. Gilles named this wine after Maître El Hem, a lawyer who helped him out of a tight corner after a driving offence, she has now become a close friend. Emanating from a superb terroir, this age-worthy altesse has more body and weight than Le Jaja – an intriguing nose, fine tension and balance with a hint of spice and a ripe peach fruit on the palate. For drinking now to 2030.
CHIGNIN BERGERON 2021
Les Filles
100% Bergeron
100% Bergeron (13.5% alc.)
Bergeron is the local strain of the roussanne grape; it gives a dense, concentrated wine with apricot/peach fruit showing more dynamism and natural acidity than you usually find in the northern Rhône (roussanne’s heartland). Vinified and aged as per the other whites at the domaine, the cuvée Les Filles is a tribute to the many women involved in Domaine Paratagé. Harvested in various sorties when only the ripest bunches are selected, Les Filles comes from a south-facing plot with a deeper topsoil (as opposed to Les Fripons). Deep and textural, this wine will age gracefully for many years. For drinking now to 2030+.
CHIGNIN BERGERON 2021
Les Fripons
100% Bergeron
100% Bergeron (12% alc.)
Les Fripons (translating as 'the rascals') is a counterpoint to the cuvée Les Filles – the grapes come from a neighbouring east-facing plot where the vines get straight into the bedrock, almost no topsoil, a poorer soil compared to Les Filles resulting in wines with lower alcohol, leaner body, salivating bitters and salty acids. Another stunning bergeron bottling for drinking now to 2030+.
VIN DE SAVOIE 2021
La Deuse
90% Mondeuse, 10% Persan
90% Mondeuse, 10% Persan (10% alc.)
La Deuse is a memory of times past when many wines’ alcohol levels struggled to reach 10 degrees. Whole bunches in a sealed vat for two weeks semi-carbonic maceration before pressing. Fermentation and ageing in fibreglass, 20mg/l SO2 total – addition pre-bottling around April the following year. 1.2ha of mondeuse planted straight into the hard limestone bedrock, a poor soil with not much topsoil resulting in ripe grapes with low alcohol and high acids. Persan adds a little tannic structure and intense red fruits to the typical mondeuse aromas of violets, black fruits and pepper. Very sappy, racy fruit, with a wonderful texture and real digestibility. An iconic and sought-after Savoie bottling.
Maison des Ardoisières Wines
SILICE 2023
Vin des Allobroges IGP
100% Jacquère
100% Jacquère (11% alc.)
Maison des Ardoisières is Brice’s négoce, he supervises the work and buys the grapes from three domaines – 4ha of organically farmed 50-60yo vines on limestone scree and clay-limestone soils in Apremont. This cuvée ferments and ages in fibreglass vats for 9 months, bottled with less than 20mg/l of sulphur added. Fresh on the nose with touch of white flowers and lemon, there’s a bit of 'gras' on the attack and a lively finish with hints of quinine and lime. It’s pretty serious for the price, and the wine (in its youth) opens up beautifully over a couple of days.
Domaine des Ardoisières Wines
ARGILE BLANC 2022
Vin des Allobroges IGP
40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche
40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Mondeuse Blanche (12.5% alc.)
40yo jacquère, chardonnay and mondeuse blanche planted at high altitude (450m) on schist-based hillsides in St-Pierre-de-Soucy, vinified with 15% 80yo jacquère from Apremont on limestone scree. Ageing in fibreglass for nine months. A perfectly balanced weight and tension, with smoky notes on the nose, very frank, pure and at ease on the palate, with ripe lemon fruit, and intense mineral character (hot stone and saline) that really tugs on the salivary glands.
SCHISTE 2021
Vin des Allobroges IGP
40% Jacquère, 30% Roussette, 20% Malvoisie, 10% Mondeuse Blanche
40% Jacquère, 30% Roussette, 20% Malvoisie, 10% Mondeuse Blanche (12% alc.)
One of the domaine’s three top cuvées made from the great terroir of Cévins – the origin of Domaine des Ardoisières (see profile). A south east-facing terraced vineyard on a vertiginous 60% slope, bush vines 'sur échalas' straight into the bedrock of metamorphic mica-schist. Yields are just 25hh, and the wine is aged in 3-5yo barrels for a year. There is a great balance of dense fruit, apricot, pears, spice with a lick of acidity and a lip-smacking salinity on the finish. For drinking now to 2027.
QUARTZ 2021
Vin des Allobroges IGP
100% Altesse
100% Altesse (12.5% alc.)
As per the cuvées Schiste and Améthyste, the vines are in Cévins in the remote Tarantaise valley. Quartz comes from the heart of the coteau, full south-facing, where Lydia and Claude Bourguignon identified the most qualitative parcels and advised to only plant altesse – the emblematic Savoie grape. Bush vines 'sur échalas' on terraced slopes, almost no top-soil, the roots get straight into the slate giving low yields of 20hh. Direct press, fermentation with native yeasts, ageing for 18 months in 1-10yo barriques. Flinty, almost smoky nose with sweet spices aromas, this is deep and rich with savoury flavours, the schist soils bring verticality and length to the wine, framing and taming the powerful texture. Un grand vin. Brice advises four years in bottle minimum.
ARGILE ROUGE 2021
Vin des Allobroges IGP
65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan
65% Gamay de Chautagne, 25% Mondeuse, 10% Persan (11.5% alc.)
Since 2016 this includes 50yo mondeuse from limestone-clay soil in Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte, whereas gamay and persan come from 40yo vines on schisty marl hillsides in Saint-Pierre-de-Soucy. Vinified in cuve, the grapes are not destalked, and given a ten days cuvaison before nine months élevage in fibreglass tanks. The inclusion of mondeuse brings more depth and complexity, with added spiciness, and more structure to the palate. This offers an exciting aromatic range – violet, pomegranate, spicy red fruits and a very irony, stony mineral flecked palate.
AMÉTHYSTE 2019
Vin des Allobroges IGP
60% Persan, 40% Mondeuse Noire
60% Persan, 40% Mondeuse Noire (12% alc.)
This is the domaine’s top red cuvée from the coteau de Cévins – a south-facing terraced vineyard on a vertiginous 60% slope where the soil is derived from metamorphic mica-schists. Yields are just 20hh, and it’s made from whole bunches, then aged for 18 months in 2-10yo barrels. From an aromatic and taste perspective, it is most similar to a top Côte-Rôtie from the north of Ampuis where schist predominates. It has a stony, raspberry fruit, touch of pepper, perfect balance and a lip-smacking salinity on the finish. As per Argile Rouge, pinches of SO2 are added at racking and pre-bottling reaching 35mg/l total. For drinking now to 2029.
Domaine des 13 Lunes Wines
APREMONT 2023
Vin de Savoie
100% Jacquère
100% Jacquère (10.5% alc.)
This is a blend of multiple parcels in Apremont averaging 50yo, all of which are on the limestone scree soils that resulted from the Mont Granier’s landslide (see profile). Fermentation and élevage on fine lees take place in ovoid fibreglass vessels. The latest vintages were warm lending jacquère more weight and ripeness than usual – this wine offers silky, peachy fruit on the palate. Sylvain managed to extract lovely bitters resulting in a refreshing and saline finish.
AMI-AMIS 2018
Vin de Savoie
34% Veltliner, 33% Altesse, 33% Jacquère
34% Veltliner, 33% Altesse, 33% Jacquère (12% alc.)
Sylvain has just 0.15ha of 30yo veltliner, a low acidity pink-skinned variety. He likes to blend it with equal parts of altesse and jacquère. These two varieties are assembled as early as possible, often immediately after fermentation, and then aged in stainless steel. The veltliner is vinified and aged in oak barrels since Sylvain likes its oxidative quality. There’s a fine play between ‘gras’ and tension here, with fresh lemons, apples, moreish white fruits and a taut finish.
Les Grangeons de L’Albarine Wines
ALTIESSE EN PARADIS 2020
Vin de France
100% Altesse
100% Altesse (13% alc.)
Lieu-dit En Paradis is on the western side of the Coteau d'Argis – the SW-facing vines were planted from 2002 to 2006 (by the previous owner) at the foot of the Roche de Narse on 30-35 degree slopes; the soil is poor with extremely rocky limestone scree (from the Bathonian age, middle Jurassic) lying over grey marl – "on paper, this is top terroir that can produce the finest mineral white wines, but hey time will tell!", comments Luc. Fermentation and 12-month ageing in sandstone ('grés') amphoras, the only addition of SO2 (10mg/l) occurs then, before bottling without filtration. This is altesse like no other or at least unlike any we've tasted before, the mouthfeel is packed with fine bitters and mineral salts, forming an almost tannic impression on the gums and the tip of the tongue – not to be missed by all the savagnin and chenin aficionados out there. For drinking now to 2028.
LE GRANGEON DE MANO 2019
Vin de France
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13.5% alc.)
Mano is the proud owner of one of the last 'grangeon' (see profile) standing on the Coteau d'Argis – the stonewalled hut sits right at the bottom of Luc's steep chardonnay plot. Located east of the lieu-dit En Paradis (see Altiesse wine), and only separated from it by woods, the vines grow on the exact same terroir in the foothills of the Roche de Narse. Vinified and aged as per the Altiesse En Paradis, this wine is perfectly poised and, not surprisingly, it combines Burgundy's refinement with Jura's intensity; a class act that is up there with the best chardonnays from Pierre Fenals or the Labet family! For drinking now to 2025.
MONDOUZE LE CHÂTEAU 2022
Vin de France
100% Mondeuse
100% Mondeuse (10% alc.)
0.4ha in the lieu-dit Le Château on the eastern part of the Coteau d'Argis – in the continuity of En Paradis and Le Grangeon de Mano – where the steep slope is facing due south. The vines were planted in 2007 from a massal selection done at legendary domaine Prieuré St-Christophe (old strains of mondeuse). Luc practises severe pruning (two buds per shoot) to lower the yields of this otherwise generous variety. The grapes undergo a 10 days whole bunches maceration, followed by 12 months élevage on fine lees in 228 and 500ltr barrels, the wine is bottled unfiltered with the addition of 1g/hl SO2. This is mondeuse at its best – the colour is a gorgeous shade of purple, light on its feet and extremely digeste at 10% alc, it still manages to display concentration and texture with black cherries and bright violets aromas, complex peppery flavours on the palate, and the salivating finish makes you reach for another sip immediately.
ALTIESSE DE BEAUREGARD 2018
Vin de France
100% Altesse
100% Altesse (11.5% alc.)
The Clos de Beauregard is a south-facing slope in the village of St-Sorlin-en-Bugey (30min drive SW of Argis). The 70yo vines are planted on a mix of limestone scree and iron-rich clay-limestone soils, directly overlooking the Rhône at 300m altitude. Vinified and aged in demi-muids (5-6yo) for just over a year, no filtration and homeopathic dose of SO2 added pre-bottling. It is full on the attack, with delicious sun-gorged stone fruits and citruses, fine bitters and salivating umami flavours on the finish – another fine example of altesse that shows this noble variety belongs with the very best France has to offer. For drinking now to 2025.
TUTTI FRUTTI 2021
Vin de France
60% Altesse, 40% Aligoté, Chardonnay, Chasselas
60% Altesse, 40% Aligoté, Chardonnay, Chasselas (11% alc.)
110yo organically-grown roussette from Seyssel – a famous Savoie cru dedicated to the altesse variety, the AC seats on both banks of the Rhône at Bugey's eastern border – bought 'sur pieds' and harvested by Luc himself. Vinified and aged in 228ltr barrels for 11 months, it was then blended with leftover wines (from the different assemblages), and given an extra 6-month ageing in cuve before bottling 'sans souffre'. Fruit-forward with enticing flavours of white peach, this is a fun wine that delivers pleasure with enough depth of flavours to satisfy anyone!
COMBERNAND 2021
Vin de France
50% Chardonnay, 50% Aligoté
50% Chardonnay, 50% Aligoté (12.5% alc.)
The lieu-dit Combernand, also known as La Cluse des Peintres, is in the village of Rossillon halfway between Argis and Belley. 40yo vines of chardonnay and aligoté on glacial moraine soils – formed when the glaciers melted down, depositing a thick and compacted layer of rolled pebbles. Vinified in old demi-muids and bottled without sulphur, it’s rich and textured thanks to a spot-on élevage that added weight and breadth, there's dynamism on the palate lifted by a bright vein of acidity. Both grape varieties can also be bottled separately (under the same label) depending on yields in a particular vintage, and Luc's feel for the wines during élevage. N.B. some 100% chardonnay bottlings are made from that particular plot as well.
Franck Peillot Wines
BUGEY MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE
Montagnieu
60% Mondeuse Noire, 30% Altesse, 10% Chardonnay
60% Mondeuse Noire, 30% Altesse, 10% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This wine has real vinosity and much more quality and character than most other sparkling wines. It is made 100% from 2018, vinified in cuve, aged for 12 months 'sur lattes', disgorged in 12/20 with a 4g/l dosage. Very fine mousse, saline and long on the finish, the ripe red fruits from mondeuse noire give the wine a delicious lift.
ROUSSETTE DU BUGEY 2018
Montagnieu
100% Altesse
100% Altesse (12% alc.)
The vines here average 50yo, planted on the steep hillside of Montagnieu in soils of marl and limestone rubble, overlying a limestone base. Vinified in cuve and bottled last July, it is now beginning to open out. You’ll find quince, honey, acacia blossom, a touch of liquorice, peach and exotic fruits. It has an excellent structure, quite tense, with very precise detailed fruit and a lovely streak of acidity.
Philippe Balivet Wines
BUGEY CERDON NV
Classique
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (7% alc, 78g of rs)
Unusually for the appellation, Vincent and Cécile like to add some 'vieux vin' to the blend for consistency and vinosity. Therefore this cuvée is a blend of 2022 and 2023. The grapes are harvested by hand and vinified by méthode ancestrale (see profile) using low levels of SO2 – 16 mg/l total. Second fermentation lasts four months at 10°C for a slow 'prise de mousse'. The nose is bright and perfumed. The palate is fresh, precise and full of crunch, with cherry, raspberry, and violets underpinned by fine bubbles. A beautiful play between sugar and acids that keeps you going back for more until the bottle has suddenly disappeared!
BUGEY CERDON 2020
Récolte Cécile
50% Gamay, 50% Poulsard
50% Gamay, 50% Poulsard (7.5% alc, 62g of rs)
Same vinification as the cuvée Classique although this is ‘sans soufre’ and from a single vintage. The poulsard is planted on marl soils similar to those found in the Jura. Very expressive on the nose with confit fruits, wild strawberry and popping candy. The poulsard adds a touch of finesse and poise to the palate. It is complex with a vinous quality and a lengthy finish that displays savoury bitters. More serious than the cuvée Classique, but equally delicious and a joy to drink.
Daniel Bouland Wines
CHIROUBLES 2022
Chatenay
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
Daniel Bouland’s Chiroubles comes from a 0.65 ha vineyard, 30yo vines and a light yellow sandstone. A bright mid-cherry colour, it is a real 'vin de terroir', with quite an intense stony character and gentle raspberry fruit.
CÔTE-DE-BROUILLY 2023
Cuvée Mélanie
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (14.5% alc.)
Named after Daniel's daughter, this comes from 70yo vines in a schist and granite derived soil with blue diorite on the southern slope of Mont Brouilly. Aged in old oak foudres, with a fine plum colour, it has rich spicy fruit with a marked stony flavour on the finish.
MORGON BELLEVUE 2019
Sable
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
Bellevue is a lieu-dit part of the climat Corcelette, NW of Villé-Morgon. The vines average 40-50yo, they're planted in weathered sandy granite on low-yielding quality rootstock called Vialla. Using natural yeasts together with cement cuve ageing, this has a nice kernel of red fruits on the attack, and good mouthfeel with an irony, intensely mineral play on the long finish.
MORGON BELLEVUE 2023
Cailloux
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (14% alc.)
Bellevue is one of the highest lieu-dit in the climat Corcelette. The 'Cailloux' bottling comes from vieilles vignes only, around 80yo, planted on 420A rootstock specifically designed for terroirs that are very stony and have no topsoil, straight into the granite bedrock in this case. Fermentation and ageing in cement cuve, this has a similar profile to the 'Sables' with extra intensity, depth, salivation, and an incisive mineral finish.
MORGON CORCELETTE 2023
Vieilles Vignes Sable
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (14% alc.)
One of Daniel’s top cuvée comes from 1 ha of vines (just above the cave) planted in 1925 on very steep hillside, with sandy soils of decomposed schist and granite. Vinified and aged in foudres, this has lovely weight of fruit, dark cherry and blackberry, and intense mineral character. There is a quietly tannic, old viney grip to the finish that presages an excellent future. In typical fashion, Daniel also produces the 'Cailloux' version from vines planted into the granitic bedrock – no sandy topsoil meaning more verticality and rusticity in the finished wine.
MORGON LES DELYS 2021
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
The lieu-dit Les Delys is part of the climat Corcelette, it's located right where Domaine Chamonard sits – down the slope from Bellevue. The vines were planted in 1978 and 1980 in deep granitic sand – typical of Les Delys which brings roundness and texture to the wines. It was (cement) cuve aged and bottled in August the following year. N.B. Daniel also produces a 'Vignes de 1926' cuvée produced from a tiny section of the vineyard – a rare and outstanding wine!
Marcel Lapierre Wines
MORGON 2022
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
Ripe grapes are meticulously sorted and cooled in refrigerated trucks before a semi-carbonic maceration. The Lapierres believe in diligent and controlled winemaking – they monitor the microbiological activity of their wines under microscope daily (during both fermentation and ageing) to be able to vinify without SO2. A finely sculpted wine here, with a mid-raspberry colour, delicately extracted, and beautifully pure old viney fruit, enhanced by ten months ageing in old barrels (from Prieuré-Roch in Burgundy) and wooden foudres. No fining and filtration, low SO2 might be added at bottling only – the bottles marked 'N' (for Nature) on the back label are made 'sans soufre'.
MORGON 2022
Camille
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
Cuvée Camille comes from a 1ha SW facing plot in La Roche du Py – a lieu-dit within the hilly Côte du Py, famous for its singular pocket of shallow granitic soil surrounded by 'roches bleues' (a blue schist soil of volcanic origin typical of the Côte du Py). The topsoil is very thin there and the 80yo vines plunge straight into the bedrock. The wine is deep and concentrated, with ripe fruit, wild herbs and spices; it’s rich and complex with an almost 'sudiste' quality. Beautiful salivating bitters lend freshness and peps on the finish. Drink now to 2035.
MORGON 2022
Marcel Lapierre
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
The cuvée Marcel Lapierre is only made in great vintages – it's a selection of the oldest vines at the domaine (more than 100yo on 2.5ha) sourced from the climats Côte du Py (roughly 70% of the blend) as well as Douby that borders the Fleurie appellation. The vines in Côte du Py grow on volcanic schist called 'roches bleues' whereas Douby sits on shallow granitic soil. Floral on the nose, this wine can be reduced in its youth, the palate is structured with fine tannins, concentration, and good acidity at its core; it is rich and layered, with spices, herbs, and earthy tones mingled with an irony finish. Drink now to 2035.
Domaine Chamonard Wines
MORGON 2017
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13% alc.)
Jean-Claude has 5 ha of old vine Morgon (up to 80yo) on the slopes of Corcelette, Grand Cras and Chênes. Aged for 11 months in 80% older fûts and 20% cuve, it is already showing beautifully. It has a gorgeous dark red cherry colour, totally at ease with itself, and composed harmonious fruit with silky tannins and an irony print on the finish. It’s a wine that can be drunk with great pleasure now but will also age well over the next five years or so.
Jean-claude Chanudet Wines
FLEURIE 2020
La Madone
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
La Madone, the most famous plot in Fleurie, and at 430m the highest of the appellation, offers a soil of pale pink decomposed granite, on a granite bedrock. Jean-Claude (along with Marcel Lapierre one of the forefathers of the movement towards better viticulture and lower use of sulphur) produces the most elegant expression possible from his wife Geneviève’s vines. It has a gentle colour, violet note on the nose, a wonderfully supple texture, and red and black fruits backed by a strong mineral character on the finish.
La Bonne Tonne Wines
RÉGNIÉ 2022
Agath' The Blues
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13% alc.)
Being a Régnié native, it was Thomas’ dream to produce a wine from this underrated Cru – this particular cuvée met such praise upon release that it’s become a real source of pride for the domaine. The vines are 60yo on average and come from two climats: 0.83ha in Le Mollard (sand and quartz over a pink granite bedrock), and 0.73ha in Buillats (clay). Aged in old barrels and concrete tanks, the sandy soils bring a floral, lifted quality to the nose. The palate is invigorating, showing wild strawberry and a touch of spice, with fine-grained tannins.
MORGON 2020
Grand Cras
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (14% alc.)
Planted in 1955, the vines sit on ancient alluvial terraces (old river bed) made of silica-rich clay and gravel soils – Le Grand Cras climat is located south of the AC down the Haut-Morgon and Côte du Py slopes. The semi-carbonic maceration lasted about three weeks before spending ten months in 228 and 400ltr old barrels, and another six months in concrete vats after the 'mise en masse'. With yields of around 30hh in 2020, this is dense and concentrated on opening, a bit of air helps the wine relax. There’s a savoury quality to it with a long and salivating finish. Hints of cherries and peonies emerge with air, as well as touches of black pepper and liquorice, all framed by fine tannins with a little grip.
MORGON 2022
Côte du Py
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13.5% alc.)
Of the 240ha that constitute this renowned climat, only a third sit on the famed 'roche pourrie' – a soil rich in iron and manganese made from eroded 'blue' schist of volcanic origin (locally named 'les pierres bleues'). Anne-Laure and Thomas are lucky to own 0.6ha of due-south 60-100yo vines with roots digging deep into the layers of schist. The whole bunches went through almost three weeks maceration before pressing and 12 months ageing in 400ltr old barrels. Bottled without SO2, it shows the amazing potential of this site with a sense of verticality and drive that sets it apart. The nose is discreet with hints of freshly picked mushroom, cherries, and gunflint; the palate is dynamic with crunchy, vibrant red fruits and violets, and firm but fine tannins. A lot of class and finesse here – the finish is long and complex showcasing an incredible mineral stamp.
MORGON 2022
Vieilles Vignes
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13% alc.)
Planted in 1901 in the prime climat Les Charmes (west of the AC), these are the oldest vines of the domaine. Only produced in the best years with yields that never exceed 15hh due to the age of the vines and the number of 'manquants', this cuvée is as confidential as it gets. The soil here is weathered granite with clay and sandstone over the granitic bedrock. Whole bunch maceration takes place in opened barrels for two to three weeks before pressing in a small vertical press, and ageing occurred in one single 400ltr barrel. The old vines bring a beautiful silky quality to the palate, and the many tannins, though present, seem coated in velvet. Fine and poised, it has a quality reminiscent of a top Volnay 1er Cru with complex notes of red fruits and spices, a long, multi-layered finish with earthy tones of undergrowth and cured meat.
Christophe Blanc Wines
LES GALETS 2022
Vin de France
100% Viognier
100% Viognier (14% alc.)
Christophe produces just 0.23 ha of viognier from young vines high up on the hillside on granitic soils in St-Michel-sur-Rhône. Very good value viognier, with typical notes of peach, pear skin, mineral touch and vigour on the finish.
CONDRIEU 2022
Les Vallins
100% Viognier
100% Viognier (14% alc.)
As the winery is 50 metres from his vines, and he has such a small holding (just 0.33 ha), Christophe is able to pick the grapes at the precise 'bon moment' and retain an acidity which is so often lost in late harvesting. A well handled élevage helps the wine retain freshness and it seems that the mica-rich granitic soil gives this age-worthy Condrieu added depth, complexity and tension. For drinking now to 2030+.
André Perret Wines
CONDRIEU 2020
100% Viognier
100% Viognier (14.5% alc.)
This is made by one of the masters of the appellation, 25yo vines with half of them growing on the famous Chéry slope. The unique soil, a sandy decomposed granite rich in quartz and mica, helps give the wine its ripe pear aromas, followed by exotic mango and apricot palate, with good tension and grip on the finish.
CONDRIEU 2020
Chery
100% Viognier
100% Viognier (15% alc.)
The appellation’s historical and finest terroir (once favourite of Emperor Probus) lies on a steep south-facing terraced hillside. Half of the vines were planted between 1987-1989, while the other half was planted in the 1940s. Aged in 2/3 fûts (20% new, 80% 1-4yo) and 1/3 cuve for 15 months, it has extraordinary depth of apricot and peach fruit that is very, very intense and yet has perfect balance, with notable ginger and floral notes, and slightly iodine, salty notes on the finish. Very limited quantity. For drinking now to 2030+.
Stéphane Othéguy Wines
CONDRIEU 2017
100% Viognier
100% Viognier (13.5% alc.)
Stéphane’s Condrieu comes from a very steep south-facing vineyard in the lieu-dit of Gonon at Malleval where the soil is granitic. Half aged in cuve and half in older barrels and never given any batonnage, it went through a long, two years élevage with malos completed, before bottling in September 2019. It is very well-balanced and at ease in its youth with just 10mg/l of sulphur added – in stark contrast to many examples of Condrieu which weigh in with 80 mg/l. On the nose you notice zesty pear skin and stone fruits, the palate is supple with an elegant gras, and there’s a teasing, alluring quality on the finish which builds and builds with the granitic terroir playing its hand.
SAINT JOSEPH 2018
Le Temps des Cerises
100% Petite Sérine
100% Petite Sérine (13.5% alc.)
This wine is made from vines that Stéphane planted by sélection massale in the lieu-dit of Veussette in the village of Chavanay. Stéphane has a 0.30ha holding with a south-east aspect on a steep, granitic slope with very little topsoil. Made from 70% whole bunches and crushed by foot, it was macerated for 23 days, before a 16 month élevage. It offers intense black cherry fruit with a mineral score and super fine tannins, ideal for drinking in its youth on the fruit.
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2019
Rozier
100% Petite Sérine
100% Petite Sérine (14% alc.)
Located just to the north of Ampuis on the Côte-Brune where schist is the dominant soil, Rozier is a superb vineyard with a steep, south-eastern slope. Stéphane and his old boss Vincent Gasse planted just 0.12ha of vines by massale selection in 2002/3. Production is minuscule, usually one to three barrels. Destalked 20%, the wine has a beautiful deep raspberry colour that extends right out to the edge. One sniff and you’re hooked by the hauntingly beautiful aromatics. On the palate the fruit is clear, harmonious and complex, with a core of blueberry and black cherry fruit, notes of liquorice with a thread of iron running through, and a schist imprint on the finish. For drinking now to 2029.
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2018
Les Massales
100% Petite Sérine
100% Petite Sérine (13.5% alc.)
Les Massales comes from 0.50ha of vines split equally between the Côte-Brune schist terroirs of Leyat and Bonnivière, where the vines are 65/75yo. Per Stéphane, "Bonnivière gives freshness and length from deeper soils on the plateau, whereas Leyat produces mature, rich wine from its steep, south facing slope". Destalked 20%, with a beautiful, clear-cut colour that runs right to the edge (as with Rozier), there is an initial reserve on the nose, with dense back fruit emerging. On the palate it is impeccably balanced and there is a sumptuous stamp of cassis fruit, with a stylish, ready flow, a hint of graphite and fine grained tannins on the finish. For drinking now to 2030.
Julien Barge Wines
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2020
Les Côtes
95% Syrah, 5% Viognier
95% Syrah, 5% Viognier (13.5% alc.)
Produced from different lieux-dits above Ampuis (see profile), this wine is predominantly from the outstanding Le Combard, Côte-Blonde, and Lancement. Of note, most growers bottle very expensive single vineyard cuvées Côte-Blonde and Lancement – this wine is a distinct cut above your typical village Côte-Rôtie. It was vinified and aged in cuve for six to seven months then transferred to Stockinger foudres for a year. Julien has reined in the extraction, giving a wine that is digeste and approachable in its youth, that in our mind is the essence of Côte-Rôtie – favouring finesse and elegance, with the most attractive fruit entwined with a mineral core. Initially a touch reductive on the nose, with smoky bacon-fat giving way to floral notes. The dark raspberry fruit is notably sapid on the palate, with a graphite core and saline lick on the finish. For drinking now to 2030.
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2019
Coeur de Combard
95% Syrah, 5% Viognier
95% Syrah, 5% Viognier (13.5% alc.)
Julien owns 2.5ha of Le Combard but his top wine only comes from 0.8ha of 40-60yo vines on the central core of the outcropping volcano (see profile). This plot has more of a southerly aspect, and it is protected from the wind by the surrounding forest (1.5ha of which is owned and taken care of by the domaine) – a unique and exceptional terroir in Côte-Rôtie, dramatically steep and terraced with underground aquifers where roots fetch water and minerals. Made from 40% whole bunches, the fruit is always more intense, open and expressive than Les Côtes. The magmatic soil here brings a vibrancy of fruit, with more depth and tannic spine than wines made on gneiss soil in the rest of the Côte-Blonde sector. There’s dynamism, complexity, and class on the palate – it’s an iron-clad wine, almost 'sanguin', with dark fruits, violet, rosemary and liquorice notes; there’s a sense of umami with a mineral undertow, and finely knit tannins on a long, lingering finish. Grand vin! For drinking now to 2035.
Domaine Garon Wines
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2016
Les Triotes
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (13% alc.)
This comes from four lieux-dits and 25yo vines in the Côte Blonde – pale, decomposed schist in the centre of the appellation just south of Ampuis. Aged for 21 months in new to 15yo barrels and demi-muids, the nose offers black fruits, violets, olives and pepper, and the palate is then supple and elegant, with fine grained tannins.
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2011
Les Rochins
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (12.5% alc.)
The vines here are planted in a superb site just north of Ampuis, on a steep southfacing hillside. The topsoil is quite rich, overlying blue and red schist imbued with iron oxide. Upon aeration, floral notes appear, then blackcurrant and mulberry. The palate is well-structured, rich, with a density of ripe fruit, good acidity and ripe tannins, and a little herbal touch on the long finish. Just 2,000 bottles of this top cuvée produced. For drinking now to 2030.
David & Benjamin Duclaux Wines
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2017
La Germine
95% Syrah, 5% Viognier
95% Syrah, 5% Viognier (13% alc.)
La Germine has a lovely, clear mid-red colour extending right out to the rim. Nicely stamped by a stony, irony flavour reminiscent of the gneiss, 2017 is a fine vintage with floral aromatics, and red fruits mingled with blackberries and liquorice. For drinking now to 2027.
CÔTE-RÔTIE 2020
Maison Rouge
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (13.5% alc.)
The Duclaux brothers make just five barrels of their top wine from vines planted in 1943 (also 1920s and 1980) at the southern end of the appellation on a punishingly steep, higher slope where the soil is mainly gneiss with a little granite. Here the vineyard is only planted with a massal selection of the low yielding 'petite sérine' strain of syrah. Destalked 80% and given a three-week maceration, it was aged in 40% new oak up to 5yo, mainly fûts with a few demi-muids. A darker colour than La Germine it offers a cool blueberry fruit with some liquorice, menthol and tar, and there is a real 'noblesse' to the fine-grained tannins with herbal bitters on the finish. For drinking to 2035.
Bernard Faurie Wines
HERMITAGE 2013
Les Greffieux - Bessards
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (13.5% alc.)
Les Greffieux is a lieu-dit where the soils mix alluvial Rhône stones and decomposed granite; Bessards, where the soil is granitic, provides structure and backbone. The vines average 80yo and produced a perfectly balanced wine with great texture, raspberry and black fruit, iron, hint of black pepper and fine-grained tannins. For drinking now to 2028.
HERMITAGE 2013
Bessards - Méal
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (13% alc.)
Bessards and Méal produce a richer, more long-lived wine which takes longer to unravel. You can taste gorgeous rich, black cherry and mulberry fruit, with liquorice, spice, graphite and pepper, all the time beautifully focused. Exceptional wine that merits a place in the cellar of any wine lover. For drinking now to 2030.
Laurent Habrard Wines
HERMITAGE 2019
Les Rocoules
100% Marsanne
100% Marsanne (14.5% alc.)
This comes from a precious 0.46ha south-facing plot shrewdly purchased by Laurent’s parents in 1970 from the family of General de Gaulle – consequently this is the oldest vine example of white Hermitage from any grower in the appellation. Laurent’s 60-120yo+ vines are sandwiched between those of Chave and Sorrel’s (see profile), and the quality of viticulture here stands up to the comparison of the very best in the appellation. In a good year, Laurent produces just six barrels with yields ranging from 5hh (top of the slope on shallow soil) to 40hh (down the slope). Picking is carried out on well-judged dates so that the different levels of maturity (along the slope) balance out to a perfectly 'digeste' 13.5-14.5% alcohol. The wine ages in 1-3yo 228ltr barrels with bottling in December the following year. A rich, mid-gold robe, with beguiling aromas of roasted nuts, acacia, fresh hay, and chamomile at the fore, and a silken texture on the palate. This is a classic white Hermitage that is multi-layered and built to age beautifully, with good weight, length and harmony. For drinking now to 2035+.
CROZES-HERMITAGE 2020
90% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne
90% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne (14% alc.)
The 2.5ha of 50-90yo vines are located around Gervans, the northern and cooler part of the appellation, planted in qualitative soils of loess over granite bedrock – this is a significant advantage for Laurent which allows him to produce fresh and elegant white Crozes despite the ongoing increase in temperature and regular hot summers. Fermented and aged in 'cuve inox', the wine was fined and lightly filtered before bottling in July the following year. Surprisingly lifted despite the round texture, it displays citrusy and peppery aromatics with green almond and vanilla notes.
CROZES-HERMITAGE 2022
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (12.5% alc.)
The syrah vineyards encompass 9ha in the village of Gervans (the granite-dominated part of the appellation), and 3.5ha around Chassis in the warmer south, where the clayey soil is deeper. 'Pieds de cuve' are made from each parcel (vinified separately); this process ensures a steady fermentation in concrete vats, where the wines also age. Lightly filtered and bottled without SO2 in July, this cuvée is juicy and savoury with a dynamic and moreish mouthfeel – top-notch Crozes-Hermitage here – Gervans' granitic slopes play a key role in bringing out the best in syrah within an appellation known for its heterogeneous terroir and quality.
SAINT-JOSEPH 2022
Sainte-Épine
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (12.5% alc.)
Laurent rents just 0.6ha of 20yo+ vines on the revered Côte Sainte-Épine (see profile). Yields are always low, under 30hh, partly due to the parcel being surrounded by forest creating good competition for the vines in such poor granitic soils. 100% destemmed, fermented in concrete vats, and aged in 2-5yo barrels before bottling (in December the following year) with no sulphur added at any stage. The extraction is spot on, there’s black fruits, liquorice and hints of violet and herbs on the nose. With a palate which is full of powerful intense fruit that’s spicy and energetic, restrained by an undertow of granite and fine-grained tannins on the finish. This is a wine with exceptional balance and sapidity. For drinking now to 2030.
Domaine du Murinais Wines
CROZES-HERMITAGE 2022
Vieilles Vignes
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (13.5% alc.)
Luc Tardy took over the reins at this domaine in 1998 and is fashioning better wines every year. His Crozes is very supple and pure with lip-smacking liquorice, ripe black cherries and a touch of spice on the palate, and the oak élevage marries really well with the weight of the wine.
Pierre Gonon Wines
SAINT-JOSEPH 2020
Les Oliviers
80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne
80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne (13.8% alc.)
Les Oliviers, just to the north of Mauves, has a soil of ancient Rhône alluvium and some loess on a granitic bedrock. Harvested from August 26th, it was aged for a year in 228ltr barrels and then assembled in a stainless steel vat for a further three months before bottling in December. There's a beautiful balance in 2020, a lot of class, and a welcome lower 13.8% alc – the east part of Les Oliviers gives freshness from soil and exposure. Textured, complex fine orange zest and brioche notes, with a noble bitterness, anis, salinity and ginger on the finish, with more freshness than usual. As Jean noted, "there's usually more exuberant fruit such as apricot, but this year it's a root wine with gentian, and lovely bitter notes." Total sulphur 60mg/l.
SAINT-JOSEPH 2021
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (12.5% alc.)
This bottling incorporates 3ha of 80yo vines purchased from the legendary Raymond Trollat in St-Jean-de-Muzols (representing around 40% of the wine). Jean notes that no clones are used at all now for this wine, just massal selections. Made from a lower 60% whole bunches in 2021, harvested in the last week of September, it was vinified in concrete before transfer in older demi-muids for ageing. A really beautiful black cherry colour that extends right out to the edge, from the start the class and elegance of the 2021 is evident. It's so lifted and harmonious with blackberry fruit and notable tapenade and black pepper – a lower 12.5% alcohol – much more freshness and cut than the previous vintages, and then an irony grip on the finish with the palate staining quality typical of fruit from St-Jean-de-Muzols. The dry extract and mineral print from this vineyard are phenomenal and provide a perfect backbone to help the wine age very well – as a guide Jean Gonon recommends five years. Fined by egg white but unfiltered. For drinking from now to 2030.
SAINT-JOSEPH 2015
Vieilles Vignes
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (13.5% alc.)
The Gonon brothers made this wine from vines purchased from Raymond Trollat that were planted in 1910 and the 1920s on the steep hillsides of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols (where the soil is a crumbly granite). It’s a confidential cuvée made from time to time (the last vintage before this was 2010), to evidence what their work on the exceptional terroir of St Jean de Muzols can produce in the best vintages. They produced just one demi-muid of this dark, inky purple coloured wine. It has a brooding nose with ripe black raspberry, cassis and violets as well as vibrant notes of white pepper, allspice and smoky minerals, all part of an astonishingly complex bouquet. The palate presents stylish fruit, effortless 'gras', richness, with snug tannins that fit like a glove. The juice is elegant, the tannins are excellent, with a finish that is like essence of crumbled stone with an irony core, that sucks the saliva out of the mouth. This is complete, total, long-lived wine. Jean told us that he had no idea when this remarkable but extremely small-production wine would be released (and importers will be lucky to be offered even one case) but he did say that he didn't expect that he and his brother Pierre would be in any rush to do so. For drinking to 2040.
PAYS DE L’ARDÈCHE IGP 2021
Les Iles Feray
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (12% alc.)
The Gonon brothers use juice from their youngest vines in St-Joseph for this really good IGP, giving it less full bunch maceration than the classic St-Jo. The nose shows mulberries and raspberries, with some bacon fat, and the palate bears a concentrated heart after a bright attack, there’s evident freshness in this with mineral notes and iron, and finely grained, nicely integrated tannins. It has character, more forward and 'pointu' than the St-Jo, like a ripe Crozes from Gervans – the northern granitic sector of that appellation.
Bernard Gripa Wines
ST-PÉRAY 2021
Les Pins
80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne
80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne (13.5% alc.)
This comes from 40yo vines in a limestone soil with granite base and is now aged 100% in oak, mainly in 6-7yo 600ltr demimuids. Peachy with a hint of acacia, it has a lovely purity.
ST-PÉRAY 2021
Les Figuiers
60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne
60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne (13% alc.)
This is Gripa’s top St-Péray made from vines averaging 60 years and aged in new to 5yo barrels and demi-muids. It has an extra dimension of richness, fine greengage and peach aromas, and retains the appellation’s characteristic mineral print. For drinking now to 2030.
ST-JOSEPH 2022
80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne
80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne (14.5% alc.)
Produced from 30yo vines on hillside terraces between Mauves and Tournon, Fabrice Gripa’s Saint-Joseph white is typically a little richer than his Saint-Péray (where there is more limestone in the soil) with a good bright gold colour. It offers an attractive hint of menthol and almond on the nose, is fresh and balanced on the palate, with mineral, spice and marsanne bitterness on the finish. The élevage is spot on (almost entirely in 600ltr demi-muids of which just 8% are new), and Fabrice has once again produced a wine with perfect balance – far from easy to achieve with whites from the northern Rhône these days. For drinking now to 2030+.
ST-JOSEPH 2022
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (14% alc.)
Gripa’s red comes 90% from vines planted in Tournon. Given a three days cold soak, then foot-trodden in open wooden fermenting vats at the start of the fermentation, it was aged in a mix of new to ten years old demi-muids (60%) and fûts (40%). Made from 25% whole bunches, it has good depth with delicious black cherry fruit, liquorice, hint of black olive/grilled meat with fine-grained tannins and an irony relief on the palate. For drinking now to 2030.
Guillaume Gilles Wines
CORNAS 2021
Les Rieux
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (12.5% alc.)
Guillaume purchased Les Rieux in 2010, the land never held vines before and was mainly planted with massales from Les Bessards (Hermitage). Sandy granitic soil to the south west of the appellation at 400-450m, the south-facing vines soak up the sun throughout the whole day. Guillaume gave this wine a shorter cuvaison otherwise vinified and aged in the same way as the Chaillot cuvée. Showing really well already despite the young vines, it is very floral (violets), supple and elegant but with a distinct mineral stamp. Excellent value. For drinking now to 2030.
CORNAS 2019
Chaillot
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (14% alc.)
From the exceptional climat of Chaillot where a myriad of massal clippings and different clones were planted by local legend Robert Michel. Very steep S/SE facing slopes, specifically the lieu-dits of Les Terrasses (1.2ha on pure granite planted in 1978), Les Grands Murs (0.7ha on granite with loess and sandstone planted in 1976), and La Combe (0.5ha on granite with clay planted in 1981). The cuvée La Combe de Chaillot will not be made anymore as the vines are now of age and the wine is so good that it incorporates into the senior cuvée Chaillot, adding depth and complexity to the assemblage. The bunches were kept whole and the wine has been aged in two-thirds 400ltr barrels and bottled without fining or filtration. A seductive nose, lovely weight of rich red/black fruit and liquorice on the palate, imprint of terroir, notably irony and very fine tannins – it’s all very harmonious, un grand vin! For drinking now to 2035.
Domaine de Lorient Wines
ST-PÉRAY 2022
66% Roussanne, 34% Marsanne
66% Roussanne, 34% Marsanne (13.5% alc.)
This comes from Lorient’s terroir of 'gore' (see profile) at 550m altitude – which makes it a strong contender for the highest altitude French wine in our list. With 4ha planted it's by far the domaine's most important wine at this stage. As the vines are young (planted from 2014 to 2018), they have reined back on the yields which have averaged around 20hh, and their choice of 2/3 roussanne versus 1/3 marsanne helps to provide more character. Fermentation and ageing occur in barrels – the oak regime is subtle, with 5% new to 15yo 400ltr and 228ltr fûts. The pH here is an incredibly low 3.2 which brings even more cut and energy to the wine, it also allows working with low sulphur levels, around 30mg/l total added post malolactic. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. There's a really attractive nose to this wine, a touch of reduction initially with apricot, hazelnuts and anis gradually unfurling. It's very pure, tense and elegant on the palate, with typical granitic verticality and salinity on the finish. Impressive for such young vines, the future is bright.
CORNAS 2021
La Cabane des Chasseurs
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (12.5% alc.)
The 'hunter’s hut' cuvée comes from a tiny 0.3ha parcel of terraced hillside vines that Laure and Dimitri planted in 2014 (from massal selection) in the east-facing, prime terroir of Eygas – at the northern end of the village, 300m altitude, just above the prestigious Chaillots (where much of the Colombo family holdings are), it's an isolated vineyard surrounded by oaks, chestnut trees and forest. Here there is no topsoil, the vines are planted directly into the granite bedrock. The grapes ripen a week later than at the southern end of the appellation, and this together with the relative acidity of the soil, organic viticulture and a light hand in the cave ensure freshness and dynamism. 2/3 destalked, cuve-aged (stainless steel), bottled in June unfined and unfiltered, a tiny 10mg/l of sulphur was added at bottling only. Blackberry fruited, the wine is naturally concentrated but sapid with violets, spice, black pepper and menthol hints, the palate is expressive and immediate, with a lick of salinity on the finish.
Domaine Lattard Wines
SYRAH 2022
Vin de France
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (14% alc.)
The Lattard brothers chose Autichamp, a remote corner of the Drome, 30km south-east of Valence to plant their vines. This comes from two parcels on calcareous sand planted in 1995 and 1997 on south-east facing slopes, yielding 40hh. Fully destemmed and given 15 days maceration with daily remontage, the wine is aged for a year in stainless steel and is bottled just before harvest with no sulphur used at any stage. It’s a very honest syrah, ripe and juicy on the palate, it tightens up on the finish which is fresh with beautiful bitters and marked salinity.
GAMAY 2021
Vin de France
100% Gamay
100% Gamay (13% alc.)
Planted in 1997 on a south-east facing slope, the soil is sandier (a mix of sandstone and limestone) compared to the syrah vineyard. The ripe and healthy grapes (35hh) go through semi-carbonic maceration in stainless steel, as per ageing for 9 to 12 months. Bottled without fining, filtration or SO2 added, this is juicy and sapid with concentration as well as structure. The well-integrated VA provides balance and an umami-boosted drinkability. Amazing value for money.
La Péquélette Wines
VINSOBRES 2019
Émile
75% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% Carignan/Cinsault
75% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% Carignan/Cinsault (14.5% alc.)
Émile was Cédric's grandfather who created the domaine. Yields are extremely low at around 18-20hh from 50 to 90yo vines. Vinified in concrete vats and cuve aged for 18 months, it has a delectable, very pure black cherry, raspberry, liquorice and cinnamon flecked fruit, old vine framework and fine tannins with a cleansing, saline note on the finish. A very digeste and sapid style despite the typical southern concentration. Low SO2 at bottling only – 18mg/l total. "This is my best bottling of Émile to date, an amazing vintage that made age-worthy wines", proudly says Cédric. For drinking now to 2030.
La Luminaille Wines
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2022
Luminaris
60% Clairette, 30% Marsanne, 10% Bourboulenc
60% Clairette, 30% Marsanne, 10% Bourboulenc (12.5% alc.)
One hectare of 30yo vines on clay-based terraces with 50% planted in the forest of Rasteau at 350-400m altitude where it is a little cooler and more humid. The whole bunches were slowly pressed for a little extra texture, and the finished wine was then cuve aged. The malos often don’t take place although they are not intentionally blocked. The wine has surprising freshness (low pH 3.3), low alcohol and a lovely density. Freshly sliced pear on the nose, a hint of provencal herbs on the palate and fine bitters on the finish.
RASTEAU 2022
Garance
70% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 5% Mourvèdre
70% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 5% Mourvèdre (15% alc.)
Garance is a natural dye, made from herbs found in the vines, that produces a deep red colour. Made from the oldest parcels of vines on the property, around 90yo+, this wine was destalked 100%, vinified in amphora, then aged in cement (cutting out demi-muids previously used for ageing part of the wine). It has spicy black fruits on the nose with plums and even blood orange notes on the palate, Provencal herbs and a saline twist, all with a very digeste quality and fine-grained tannins. Unfined and lightly filtered with less than 40mg/l of total sulphur. For drinking now to 2030+.
RASTEAU VIN DOUX NATUREL 2021
Grenat
90% Grenache, 10% Carignan
90% Grenache, 10% Carignan (16% alc, 90g/l of rs)
A VDN much paler in colour compared to many of its peers, this is very delicately extracted and cuve-aged. 'Muté' or fortified when reaching 8% alc, it offers cherry/blackberry fruit with a hint of menthol and spice. Light on its feet with a digeste quality, this has very fine tannins and a savoury finish.
Domaine Houillon Wines
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2021
Vieilles Vignes
100% Grenache
100% Grenache (13.5% alc.)
2021 was a beautiful vintage chez Houillon – a relatively cool season with significant rainfall yielded lifted and elegant wines at 20hh average. This cuvée is made from the oldest grenache at the domaine – 70yo+ vines. The grapes were destemmed for a 10-week maceration (see profile), ageing occurred in stainless steel on fine lees before bottling in March 2022. Aurélien racks once and bottles when the wines are "happy, relaxed and completely clear". This is fruit-forward and peppery, it beautifully combines density and freshness – well balanced with rustic and savoury tannins triggering a lengthy salivation.
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2021
Canne
70% Grenache, 30% Syrah
70% Grenache, 30% Syrah (13.5% alc.)
The word 'canne' refers to the wooden tap on traditional foudres which allow for free-run juice to be sampled. This is indeed pure 'jus de goutte' (the 'vin de presse' goes into a different cuvée) made from 50-60yo vines following a 10-week cuvaison. Ageing and bottling as per the Vieilles Vignes wine. Expansive mouthfeel and texture, smooth tannins, lifted and fresh aromatics sustained by fine bitters, this is simply excellent.
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2020
Indigo
60% Syrah, 40% Grenache
60% Syrah, 40% Grenache (13.5% alc.)
This is one of the top wines at the domaine – old vines yielding concentrated grapes, vinification 'en cuve fermée' (see profile) for 10 weeks, ageing in stainless steel vat and bottling in June 2021. This is where Aurélien's fine touch comes into play, the wine is deep and structured but he manages to retain so much freshness and nuances within it. Indigo also expresses complex and enticing aromas of bramble fruits, viola flowers and blood orange – a stunning bottling from the Houillons.
Roucas Toumba Wines
VIN DE FRANCE 2021
Les Prémices
20% Marsanne, 17% Roussanne, 16% Clairette, 15% Grenache Gris, 14% Viognier, 14% Rolle, 4% Picpoul/Picardan/Carignan Blanc
20% Marsanne, 17% Roussanne, 16% Clairette, 15% Grenache Gris, 14% Viognier, 14% Rolle, 4% Picpoul/Picardan/Carignan Blanc (13.5% alc.)
Eric was forced to declassify this cuvée from Vacqueyras to VDF – picpoul, picardan, rolle and carignan are non-authorised varieties despite their clear local and Mediterranean roots. He has just 0.85 ha of massal selected white grapes, and whilst the vineyard is relatively young, his yields are just 16hh. He also harvests at 7am in the morning to preserve freshness. Aged for one year in 2-4yo barrels, the wine is age-worthy, complex and dense but has retained an integral freshness and balance, with intriguing aromas of white fruits and flowers.
VACQUEYRAS 2022
Rosé de la Roche
34% Cinsault, 33% Grenache, 33% Mourvèdre
34% Cinsault, 33% Grenache, 33% Mourvèdre (13.5% alc.)
A selection of young vines on sandy soils producing big juicy bunches. The different varieties were processed together, as it comes, 2/3 were vinified as a 'rosé de saignée', the remaining was directly pressed. Aromatic both on the nose and palate, it has a round and rich texture perfectly balanced by well-pitched acids and umami, a long finish on ripe peach, melon and liquorice. Pure pleasure to be shared with friends.
VDP MÉDITERRANÉE 2022
Pichot Roucas
34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 33% Carignan
34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 33% Carignan (14% alc.)
A micro-production here from 50yo grenache/carignan planted on silt from the Ouvèze river, and young vine syrah on iron-rich sand in the lieu-dit Grandes Roques (located at the bottom of the terraced hillside producing the top Vacqueyras). Harvested by hand and vinified in concrete tanks, Eric keeps 50% of whole bunches for the carignan (while the rest is destemmed) and gives it a 6 months élevage. It is a superbly made VDP with a dark cherry, spicy fruit and southern print, it is supple, not too dense and has that most important quality of being easily drinkable. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with low level of SO2.
VACQUEYRAS 2020
La Grande Terre
50% Grenache, 35% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah
50% Grenache, 35% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah (15% alc)
A blend of all Eric’s Vacqueyras younger vines as opposed to Les Restanques' old vines. The three varieties are destalked 100%, vinified separately and then blended before cuve ageing. It has a beautiful dark plum colour, with a fresh black cherry nose intermingled with violets, pine, ink, and smoke. On the palate there is vigour and depth balanced by a discreet minerality and a 'belle fraîcheur' despite the heat and concentration of the 2020 vintage.
VACQUEYRAS 2020
Les Restanques de Cabassole
60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Viognier/Clairette/Grenache Blanc
60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Viognier/Clairette/Grenache Blanc (15% alc)
Old vine grenache (60-80yo) two thirds destalked is the heart of this excellent wine aged in 500ltr barrels for two years. It has a beautiful deep plum colour, and a fresh black cherry nose intermingled with violets, thyme, ink and smoke. On the palate the wine is rich but freshened by a discreet minerality, with liquorice nuances of violet zan (french sweet!), dark chocolate and menthol supported by old vine tannins. For drinking now to 2030+.
Moulin de La Gardette Wines
GIGONDAS 2021
Tradition
80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah
80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah (14.5% alc.)
Made from a selection of old bush vine parcels tended organically including La Gardette, St Jean, Jasio and Grames, largely at high altitude to the south of the village, where the soils are a complex mix of marls, safres (sands) and limestone-clay. Vinified from whole bunches and aged primarily in old foudres this is an extremely fine and elegant example of Gigondas – it has an attractive red cherry colour, bramble fruits with menthol and pine on the nose, and an amazing palate, offering beautifully judged raspberry and blackberry old viney fruit, liquorice, leather, hint of violets, nutmeg and cinnamon stick, relieved and lifted by a juicy berry acidity and a saline lick, all held together and enhanced by fine grained tannins. It’s so pleasurable to drink now with its very digeste quality and excellent balance, but will improve over the years. For drinking now to 2035+.
Gour de Chaulé Wines
GIGONDAS 2021
Tradition
90% Grenache, 10% Counoise, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah
90% Grenache, 10% Counoise, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah (13.5% alc.)
This comes from 24 parcels around the village, 70% from the hillsides and principally sandy soils (see profile) that confer a lot of finesse to the wine, and 30% from down the hill (around Santa Duc) on red clay that brings generosity and depth. With 30% whole bunches in 2021, it was vinified in cement, aged for 18 months (two-thirds in cement tanks and one-third in old foudres), then bottled unfined and unfiltered. There is a touch of reduction on the nose that soon wafts away – reduction is key for Paul who seeks to enhance a delicate 'touché de bouche', and one of the reasons why he much prefers cement to oak barrels. As ever, his touch is spot on – the nose is floral, herbal, and spicy with red fruits to the fore, the extraction is pitch-perfect with great balance and finesse, much more than you would expect from a Gigondas, and the fruit has a very pure and lifted quality. For drinking now to 2030.
GIGONDAS 2021
Le Gour
99% Grenache, 1% Syrah
99% Grenache, 1% Syrah (13.5% alc.)
A fabulous wine from a single 0.8ha parcel of 80yo vines from the hillside vineyard of Le Gour, right next to the domaine. Here the old gobelet grenaches dominate, planted in a dense, sandy terroir of 'safres' which suits the vines perfectly, allowing for quick drainage and perfect maturity. It’s quite rare to find a single vineyard parcel in an area where blending is the norm. Made from 25% whole bunches, the wine was aged in one 19hl concrete egg for 18 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It has a beautiful pale red, almost Gevrey colour and is a wine of incredible finesse. Mid to full-bodied, it offers a floral nose (violets and wild rose) with raspberry and blood orange fruit on the palate, notes of pine, menthol, and spice, a lick of salinity and very fine-grained tannins. Simply put, this is one of the finest reds we've tried from the Southern Rhône!
Gaël Petit Wines
TAVEL 2022
La Combe des Rieu
50% Grenache Noir, Blanc and Gris, 20% Cinsault(s), 20% Carignan Noir and Blanc, 10% Clairette Blanche and Rosée
50% Grenache Noir, Blanc and Gris, 20% Cinsault(s), 20% Carignan Noir and Blanc, 10% Clairette Blanche and Rosée (14.5% alc.)
The top wine chez Gaël comes from the lieu-dit Les Vestides in the Combe de Malaven – the Malaven is a precious underground stream that flows through the Urgonian limestone bedrock (Cretaceous period). The co-planted bush vines (planted in 1965, 1969, 1976) enjoy steady capillary access to water and a cool north exposure; they sit in a rocky red clay topsoil littered with tile-shaped limestone scree (locally called 'lauzes'). The 3.5ha usually yield 25hh on average and Gaël practices a SO2-free, semi-carbonic maceration using the 'mille-feuille' technique (see profile). Its colour is like an unfiltered pinot noir rather than a delicate rosé. The flavours include spicy black cherry, juniper, and bay leaf. There’s a gentle tannic pull on the palate, a good sense of freshness and salinity, and a very long limestone-induced finish. Low pH level of 3.30 and total SO2 at 20mg/l. It holds up extremely well when open for a few days auguring well for its ageing potential – Gaël reckons it should drink perfectly for at least five years from vintage. He strongly suggests drinking cellar cool (12-14C), and highlights that it’s ideally suited to spiced, garlicy Mediterranean cuisine.
TAVEL 2023
Postérité Soixante-Dix
40% Grenache Noir, Blanc and Gris, 30% Cinsault(s), 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Bourboulenc
40% Grenache Noir, Blanc and Gris, 30% Cinsault(s), 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Bourboulenc (14% alc.)
The name Postérité 70 is a historical reference to the birth years of Gaël (1970) and his great-grandfather Aimé Roudil (1870) who created the appellation (see profile). For this cuvée Gaël has settled on blending two of the historical terroirs: the vallon of Manissy on deep sand – grenaches and cinsaults go through semi-carbo maceration and the wine ages in concrete vats – and the plateau of Vallongue, where vines sit in glacial stones and sandy limestone – here the grapes are directly pressed and the wine ages in old oak. This traditional combination enhances the smooth, pillow-like texture of grenache on sandy soils. The colour and overall structure are lighter compared to the Combe des Rieu, it shows incredible dynamism on the palate with aromas of blood orange and salty citrus peel bitters. This wine is quintessentially Mediterranean – a crowd-pleaser with extremely high 'buvabilité'.
Domaine de Ferrand Wines
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2022
Mistral
40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 10% Vaccarese
40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Carignan, 10% Vaccarese (14.5% alc.)
Mistral refers to the local northern wind, it is made from young to 40yo vines located on sandy slopes between Châteauneuf and Orange, Philippe kept 20% whole bunches, and the much higher proportion of syrah opens up the wine and makes it perfect for drinking on the fruit. Cuve aged and bottled early in June the fruit is delectable – spicy cherry and raspberry with very silky tannins. Ideal wine for a barbecue or Sunday roast.
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2020
Vieilles Vignes
90% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Clairette
90% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Clairette (14.5% alc.)
50yo vines from the best CDR sites surrounding the Châteauneuf AC and the grapes are destalked at 60%. It offers violets and herbal notes on the nose, with attractive strawberry and mulberry fruit (very close to the fresh grapes), black olives, liquorice, cinnamon, and black pepper with good freshness. Fine grained tannins on a lifted finish – Côtes-du-Rhône from a good Châteauneuf estate is always a great bargain!
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020
95% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre/Cinsault/Syrah
95% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre/Cinsault/Syrah (15% alc.)
Since 2010 Philippe has kept 50% of the whole bunches for the fermentation which helps to give a better framework for the wine and adds an extra note of spice and complexity. Made from 90yo vines planted on old rootstock that help to reduce vigour and give very limited yields (typically around 25hh), this is a dense, rich wine with real breadth of aromas and flavours, offering layers of raspberry and black cherry fruit, spice, liquorice, menthol and garrigue herbs, fine tannins and a long, mineral imbued finish. Though it can be enjoyed in its youth it will benefit from at least three years ageing. For drinking now to 2030+.
La Biscarelle Wines
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020
80% Grenache, 20% total of Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, Syrah, Counoise
80% Grenache, 20% total of Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault, Syrah, Counoise (14.5% alc.)
Jérôme Grieco’s CNDP comes from old vines in a mix of limestone-clay, deep red clays and typical 'galets roulés' river stones. He aims to produce an authentic but easily drinkable wine, and so this is a wine blessed by clarity of fruit expression and none of the souped up sweetness so prevalent in CNDP today. Cuve aged, it offers a mix of spicy red and black fruits, touch of menthol and garrigue herbs, and a long finish featuring fine grained tannins.
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2017
Les Anglaises
100% Grenache
100% Grenache (14.5% alc.)
Jérôme Grieco’s top cuvée of CNDP comes from 80yo old vines planted in sandy soils on a north facing hillside towards Orange. Not destalked and cuve aged, it has an excellent dark cherry colour that extends right out to the edge, is denser and has more matter than the normal cuvée, liquorice, menthol and clove notes on the palate, and has a long, sustained finish and perfectly judged tannins. For drinking now to 2027+.
Domaine Charvin Wines
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2023
45% Bourboulenc, 25% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc
45% Bourboulenc, 25% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc (13% alc.)
Attractive easy drinking, this cuve aged wine has a quiet charm, with peach and a hint of citrus, a little spice, with a sudiste expression and saline twist on the finish.
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2023
90% Grenache Rose, 10% Bourboulenc
90% Grenache Rose, 10% Bourboulenc (13% alc.)
Made from 50yo vines on a steep west facing hillside in sandy soil with many classic CNDP 'galets roulés'. A few too many CNDP whites are oily and alcoholic, but this is far removed, with low pH of 3.3 and no malos. Aged in stainless steel, there is a little hint of reduction, nicely layered fruit, with notes of ripe lemons, pears with floral and spice notes. It shows real energy with saline/iodine notes and finishes mineral and very long.
CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE 2022
81% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, 4% Carignan
81% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, 4% Carignan (15% alc.)
This wine is given just the same care as Charvin’s Châteauneuf. There is a cuvaison of 20 days with no destemming before 16 months in cuve prior to bottling without filtration. This 2022 is another excellent example with stylish, spicy fruit, good structure and freshness despite the power of that vintage. There's always a natural, unforced quality with this cuvée.
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020
82% Grenache, 8% Syrah, 5% Vaccarèse, 5% Mourvèdre
82% Grenache, 8% Syrah, 5% Vaccarèse, 5% Mourvèdre (15% alc.)
An age-worthy wine emanating from superb work in the vineyard, and the least possible intervention back in the cave to capture all the fruit's potential. It has spicy, chewy cherry fruit, a hint of thyme and is rich, long, but always fresh with salivation on the finish reflecting the lime-rich soils. For drinking now to 2035+.
Château Sainte Anne Wines
BANDOL 2021
50% Clairette Verte, 50% Ugni Blanc
50% Clairette Verte, 50% Ugni Blanc (12.5% alc.)
This scarce cuvée (only 5% of Châreau Ste Anne’s total production) is made from 50yo vines planted on north-facing silica-rich 'restanques' (see profile) – yields are around 25 to 30hh. The grapes are directly pressed for three hours, the wine ferments and ages in enamelled steel vats. Bottling occurs in June the following year. Total SO2 35mg/l. Mid-gold in colour, this is richly textured with notable balance and purity, the aromatics are complex hinting at melon, straw, fennel, anise, and citrus. On the finish, there is a little sea salt and an attractive bitterness. For drinking now to 2030.
BANDOL 2023
70% Mourvèdre, 20% Cinsault, 10% Grenache
70% Mourvèdre, 20% Cinsault, 10% Grenache (12.5% alc.)
Average 50yo vines that give a yield of just 25hh with 20% of the mourvèdre share coming from young 10yo vines. Alone among the top Bandol producers, Ste Anne continues to make its rosé the old-fashioned way with the 'saignée' method (bleeding as opposed to a direct press), using ambient yeast, allowing alcoholic and malolactic fermentations to work at their own pace without SO2 till racking. Similar ageing and bottling than the white cuvée – total SO2 35mg/l. Château Ste Anne simply produces the most complex and age-worthy rosé of the AC – this wine has a very attractive onion skin colour, multi-layered texture with red fruits, fennel, garrigue herbs and a hint of sweet spices. It is also interesting to note that Jean-Baptiste continues to only make 20% of rosé despite the local high demand – these days rosé represents 75% of the Bandol AC’s production. For drinking now to 2030+.
BANDOL 2018
60% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 20% Cinsault
60% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 20% Cinsault (13% alc.)
50yo+ bush vines, 80% of the grapes are destemmed with the whole bunches going at the bottom of the cuve. The open vats are punched down only once per day, by hand with a simple wooden tool, and they're cooled down with a sprinkler hose when necessary – rudimentary but efficient technology! Élevage in traditional wooden foudres for 20 months. Ste Anne's red has exceptional colour, a clear raspberry extending right to the edge. On the nose and palate, you find spiced black fruits, liquorice, a hint of game, leather and a lightly saline note. The palate is supple and mid-weight, it's a very elegant and nuanced wine (a rare quality for many mourvèdres) drinking beautifully now although a long future is assured (2035+).
BANDOL 2016
Cuvée Collection
95% Mourvèdre, 5% Grenache
95% Mourvèdre, 5% Grenache (13.5% alc.)
This comes from a 'sélection parcellaire' – a particular north-facing 'restanque' where mourvèdre thrive and grow old, 80yo+ in this case. Vinification and 20 months ageing as per the classic red. This is extremely deep and concentrated as you would expect from such old vines, still retaining Ste Anne mineral stamp, freshness and nuanced texture. "Un grand vin Provençal", that will age beautifully over decades.
Château Val d’Arenc Wines
BANDOL 2022
80% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, 10% Cinsault
80% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, 10% Cinsault (13.5% alc.)
This is a Bandol rosé with a particularly high percentage of mourvèdre which helps enhancing structure while reducing alcohol – a higher proportion of grenache gives more alcohol. Good share of west-facing old vines grown on the typical sandy clay-limestone soils of the appellation. The grapes are crushed and macerated for a few hours, the temperature is controlled (16C) during fermentation in stainless steel, and the wine is aged on fine lees for a few months only. Lovely freshness with a saline hint on the finish – amazing value for money from a prestigious AC.
Domaine de Cébène Wines
FAUGÈRES 2019
Les Bancèls
60% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache
60% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache (14% alc.)
Les Bancèls, old patois for terraces, is an extraordinary 1ha north-facing (NE to NW) vineyard terraced by "les anciens". They carved into a rocky schist hillock (320m) following the elevation contours to prevent leaching of the soils. This is one of Brigitte's favourite plots to work on for its "vibration and energy" as well as the stunning panoramic view. Mainly syrah and some grenache were replanted a little more than 20 years ago, and Brigitte blends them with mourvèdre from a due south-facing plot. The terroir and power of schist help to imbue the fruit with a signature stony mineral flavour. Black cherry and blueberry fruit is abundant and dense, with spicy and wild garrigue notes, and this wine opens out really well with a good carafeing (or enough bottle ageing). For drinking now to 2029.
FAUGÈRES 2020
Belle Lurette
85% Carignan, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre
85% Carignan, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre (13.5% alc.)
This wine is based on the 6ha parcel of 70-100yo vines surrounding the cellar, Brigitte purchased the plot when the former owner was thinking of digging the vines up. The parcel yields just two bunches per vine and two vines make one bottle of wine! The vineyard is planted in an iron imbued schist, it mainly faces due north at 300m altitude and is regularly swept by the cool Tramontane. Made from two-thirds whole bunches and cuve aged, this has exceptional balance, length and verticality – a typical feature of schist. It is savoury, earthy, spicy and tastes very close to the grapes; a stunning wine that will benefit from carafeing, bottle ageing and big glasses. "Il y a belle lurette" is a French saying referring to the old times – a wink to the venerable age of the vines. For drinking now to 2030.
PAYS D'OC IGP 2016
Ex Arena
90% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre
90% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre (13.5% alc.)
The only wine in the range not made from vines on schist – ex arena means ‘from sand’ in Latin – it takes its name after the deep bed of sandy marine deposits in Corneilhan, 25km south of Faugères closer to the Mediterranée. Yields are very low, between 10 to 20hh. Vinified and aged in cuve, this wine has a lovely dark plum but translucent colour. A 100% whole bunch fermentation provides an excellent structure, and the wine has spicy, black cherry fruit with a most attractive freshness.
Lacroix-Vanel Wines
CÔTEAUX-DU-LANGUEDOC 2016
Fine Amor
60% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Syrah
60% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Syrah (14% alc.)
Low yielding old vines planted in gravel and basalt soils and tended organically. This wine offers clearly defined fruit, with dried figs and black cherries to the fore, with an attractive floral hint too. It has been sensitively extracted, there is a distinct terroir imprint, smoky and hot stone (you can detect the volcanic print), and there are fine tannins on the finish which is long and sustained.
La Grange de Quatre Sous Wines
BU N’DAW 2020
Vin de France
100% Petite Arvine
100% Petite Arvine (14.5% alc.)
An individual, dry white from a top Swiss variety emblematic of the Valais region. The whole bunches are slowly pressed, the wine is vinified and aged in 4yo 500L barrels over 18 months. It naturally carries out its malolactic fermentation with SO2 total of around 40mg/l. An attractive pale gold colour, there is a floral hint on the nose, a well-balanced attack, with ripe citrus fruit and a saline kick on the finish.
PAYS D’OC IGP 2020
Garsinde
60% Malbec, 25% Syrah, 15% Cabernet Franc
60% Malbec, 25% Syrah, 15% Cabernet Franc (14.5% alc.)
Hildegard’s red is produced from the cooler terroirs of Assignan in the St-Chinian appellation. 100% destalked, the grapes are lightly crushed, cuvaison in stainless steel vat for 25 days with pumping-over. Press wine is blended with free-run juice, ageing for 10 months in stainless steel. The wine has succulent, spicy, dark cherry fruit with a hint of garrigue herbs. Structured, it’s still fresh and very easy to drink.
Domaine des Terres Falmet Wines
CARIGNAN 2022
Vin de France
100% Carignan
100% Carignan (13% alc.)
Yves Falmet’s wines have attractive, unforced fruit with excellent texture and mouthfeel. This low yield, hand harvested, old vine carignan (80-90yo) comes from the same north-facing vineyard as his St-Chinian and has been cuve aged to retain all its spicy, dark raspberry, spicy fruit, with a saline finish.
ST-CHINIAN 2019
L’Ivresse des Cimes
50% Mourvèdre, 35% Syrah, 15% Grenache
50% Mourvèdre, 35% Syrah, 15% Grenache (13.5% alc.)
From a steep hillside vineyard in the Montagne Noire, this comes from 40yo vines, and is minerally, very spicy and tobaccoey. In our view St-Chinian is one of the finest appellations of Languedoc, and this is a really good, honest example.
Emmanuel de Soos Wines
PAYS D’OC IGP 2021
Domaine Rougié
100% Viognier
100% Viognier (13.5% alc.)
Very low yields (30hh) provide the base for this half cuve and half oak-aged viognier with a characteristic apricoty, peachy stamp, and a good cut of freshness.
MINERVOIS 2017
Château de Rieux
90% Syrah, 10% Grenache
90% Syrah, 10% Grenache (14% alc.)
This syrah dominant Minervois has lush, attractive blackberry fruit, liquorice, a touch of oak and silky tannins.
Étienne Fort Wines
LIMOUX 2022
Samo
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
SAMO, this is named after Jean-Michel Basquiat's political and poetical graffitis in late 1970s NYC – Étienne is a fan! A still wine Limoux AC made from 40yo massal-selected vines at high altitude (the two plots are respectively at 400 and 520m), this was vinified and aged in older demi-muids for 10 months. It retains an incredible freshness and limestone-induced acidity, well balanced and at ease (with low SO2), this puts us in mind of good Jura chardonnays – pure pleasure and top value for money.
BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX
Monsieur S
100% Mauzac
100% Mauzac (12.5% alc.)
Étienne Fort makes brilliant sparkling wines by the 'méthode traditionnelle' (as for champagne), from parcels at 400-500m altitude on limestone soils in the foothills of the Pyrénées. This is based on the 2021 vintage which was aged for six months in cuve, some reserve wine from 2020 was added before being bottled off for ageing 'sur lattes' – disgorged in December 2023 with no dosage, this exceptional value fizz has a fine bubble, and fruit-forward spicy flavours typical of the local mauzac variety.
CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX
Monsieur S
65% Chardonnay, 25% Chenin, 10% Pinot Noir
65% Chardonnay, 25% Chenin, 10% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
Étienne’s Crémant is a more complex sparkling wine (compared to the Blanquette), sourced once again from low-yielding vines at high altitude which helps preserving freshness and cut. Wild yeast fermentation in wooden foudres, 12 months ageing in old 'demi-muids' before being bottled off for second fermentation and ageing 'sur lattes'. This is based on the 2021 vintage with some reserve wine from 2020, disgorgement in December 2023 with zero dosage – the wine has attractive citrus fruits, syllabub and lime blossom, a limestone-induced saline freshness and gentle bitters on the finish.
Clos du Rouge Gorge Wines
CÔTES CATALANES IGP 2021
100% Maccabeu
100% Maccabeu (13% alc.)
70yo maccabeu planted on hillsides of gneiss and orthogneiss (north and east facing which helps preserve freshness). The wine is aged with no bâtonnage in a new 500ltr barrel made by famous Austrian tonnelier Stockinger and several 4yo barriques. Delicacy, precision and terrific freshness characterise this wine, citrus and white fruits with herbal notes of lemon thyme, anise, lavender, mint, a mineral cut and saline with gentle bitters on the long finish. Unfined and unfiltered, very low sulphur. For drinking now to 2030.
CÔTES CATALANES IGP 2017
L’Ubac
100% Grenache Gris
100% Grenache Gris (13% alc.)
Cyril’s top cuvée of white comes from minuscule yields of 65-70yo vines planted in gneiss on a dramatic 70% north-facing hillside – Ubac is Occitan for the shaded side of a mountain, a location which enhances freshness in the finished wine. Mechanisation is impossible here, so viticulture is either carried out on foot or with the help of a horse. Vinified and aged slowly over 20 months in Stockinger demi-muids, this was bottled by hand with a micro touch of sulphur added at bottling of around 10mg/l. The finesse and lifted aromatics are astonishing, the fruit is so sleek and stylish, the finish goes on forever with gneiss imparting a subtle stony character – the kind of wine that sends shivers down one’s spine and puts most white burgundies firmly in the shade. For drinking now to 2030.
CÔTES CATALANES IGP 2021
Jeunes Vignes
100% Grenache
100% Grenache (13.5% alc.)
Cyril’s 'young vines' are 25-30yo, planted in thin soils developed over upturned schist. Vinified in 500ltr wooden cuve for three months, and then aged in stainless steel for eight months, to capture the fruit and freshness, Cyril’s approach is one of extreme delicacy, producing a floral, finely tuned grenache with a notable schisty, mineral print and very fine grained tannins, miles away from the rustic brutes that grenache can sometimes produce.
CÔTES CATALANES IGP 2019
95% Carignan, 5% Grenache
95% Carignan, 5% Grenache (13.5% alc.)
Very low yields from 70 to 100yo vines, meticulous grape selection in the vineyard, gentle extraction (more like infusion), sensitive handling of oak (ten months in recent 500ltr and older barriques), and minimal sulphur – a few factors that produce this extraordinary wine. It has a gamey hint of reduction on the nose that quickly floats off to reveal complex notes of dark cherry fruit with thyme/oregano, menthol, and a hint of nutmeg. This wine has radical finesse and freshness for a wine from Roussillon (or anywhere from the south of France). Unfined and unfiltered. For drinking now to 2030+.
Hors Champ Wines
CÔTES CATALANES IGP 2021
La Femme Soleil
100% Maccabeu
100% Maccabeu (11.5% alc.)
Purchased from the organically certified Domaine de Rancy, the maccabeu comes from 70yo vines planted on the lower slopes of Montner in a schist derived soil. Aged in cuve primarily with just 15% in barrique for a little added texture, sulphur here is a very low total 10mg/l, the wine is very pure, and the fruit supple and attractive, with pears and peach to the fore and a hint of spice and pepper, with a nice saline touch on the finish. N.B. a pure grenache gris version of the Femme Soleil is also made – another amazing value wine with more 'gras' and texture than the maccabeu.
CÔTES CATALANES IGP 2021
Une Vie la Nuit
100% Syrah
100% Syrah (13.5% alc.)
This wine comes from purchased grapes picked at the highest altitude in Roussillon at 600m on the hills of Trevillac and Montalba, permitting a long, slow maturing cycle, which help the freshness and delicacy in the wines. Cyril’s idea was also to work the juice very delicately and make wines as close to the grape as possible. Aged in older barrels for just under a year and bottled off with a minute 10mg/l of sulphur it is very digeste and sapid, with black cherry fruit and hint of spice and salinity.
Domaine de Rancy Wines
CÔTES CATALANES RANCIO SEC 2011
100% Maccabeu
100% Maccabeu (18% alc.)
Well accustomed to exercising patience with their élevages, the Verdaguer picked the grapes late in 2011, fermented out dry to 18% and then gave this ten years demi-muids ageing (double the AC’s minimum élevage requirement), before bottling unfined and unfiltered. A pale amber colour, the nose gives a blast of aromas from almonds, chestnuts, confit orange, fenugreek to marked salinity and even seaweed. On the palate it is very well-balanced offering up almond flavours, good acidity and a saline, umami quality playing and driving the wine on, with dry extract marking the finish. Like a dry Amontillado or Sercial Madeira, it’s typically served at around 13C as an apéritif or alongside seafood, like the Côte Vermeille’s famous anchovies, and it’s brilliant with manchego and blue cheese too. For drinking now to 2030+.
RIVESALTES AMBRÉ 1992
Vin Doux Naturel
95% Maccabeu, 5% Grenache Blanc/Gris
95% Maccabeu, 5% Grenache Blanc/Gris (18% alc, 125g/l of rs)
Late harvested grapes were fermented in cuve, before the fermentation process was arrested by the addition of home-made marc. It was then given 24 years élevage in old demi-muids, not topped up at any stage before bottling in 2017. A deep amber, tobaccoey colour, it offers a herbal, medicinal nose, with prunes, saffron and typical saline edge. The palate is rich but silky and seamless (there’s no heat whatsoever), with fig and prunes, orange peel, totally integrated sugars, umami and salinity leavened by an acidic cut and a super long finish. It would be extremely difficult to find a better Vin Doux Naturel and even the finest Tawny Ports would suffer by comparison. For drinking now to 2035.
Oiseau Rebelle Wines
XRS 2015
Vin de France
85% Grenache Gris, 15% Grenache Blanc
85% Grenache Gris, 15% Grenache Blanc (14.5% alc.)
This cuvée was macerated on the skins for 18 months until March 2017 and, inspired by the wines of Xeres (Jerez), 150ltr was aged in one 220ltr 3yo barrel under flor until Sep 2019 when the flor broke down. Just 360bts of 370ml were bottled in October 2019. It offers a beautiful onion skin colour with a glint of pink and is subtly nutty with a hint of oak on the nose. It is dense, dry, spicy and nutty on the palate with herbal, medicinal notes, with the flor conferring almond flavours, sapidity and a silky texture with both lift and umami on the very sustained finish. For drinking now to 2025+
BRMTH 2015
Vin de France
100% Grenache Noir
100% Grenache Noir (17.5% alc.)
In 2015 one of Guido and Melanie’s young daughters tragically died, hitting the family very hard. Amidst their sadness they were somehow inspired to produce another unique cuvée. They decided to produce a wine like a Vermouth from black grapes but rather than adding sugar to a base wine, simply used the clear juice from ripe late October harvested grenache noir (so a blanc de noirs). The grapes were pressed hard (for three days) to extract the maximum bitters. It was fermented dry leaving just 0.9g/l of rs and an alcohol level similar to most dry Vermouth, then aged in a reductive atmosphere in stainless steel for two years without touching at any stage. It offers a beautiful deep coppery colour, intense herbal, menthol, black cherry on the nose with notes of dark chocolate, tobacco and Indian spice. On the palate there is a terrific play between the fruit and bitters, with a restrained power and gentle tannic grip, salinity, and excellent lift on the finish.
CRBR 2016
Vin de France
95% Grenache Noir, 5% Grenache Gris
95% Grenache Noir, 5% Grenache Gris (14% alc, 224g/l of rs)
Guido and Melanie explain the reasoning behind the name of this cuvée: "We’ve opted out of the Banyuls appellation and Cerbère is the name of the little village close to us and next to Banyuls. It’s also the name of the mythical dog with three heads that guards hell!" If conclusive proof were needed that you don’t need to corrupt top quality juice with the addition of spirit to make the finest Banyuls, this extraordinarily good and naturally sweet (red) wine provides it. Super late harvested on 22nd November (with sugars indicating a potential alcohol of 26.5%!), destalked by hand, then foot trodden, the juice was given plenty of pigeage at the outset, then allowed to tick along, slowly fermenting in a stainless steel vat with no sulphur added whatsoever. The vat was put outside in the early summer heat, Guido explained, "Based on a very simple, practical consideration: if fermentable sugar is not metabolised under conditions that promote fermentation (a wine temperature of 27C) then there is the greatest possible certainty that unintentional fermentation after bottling is also impossible." Bottled in July 2017, on the nose it has a mesmerising array of aromas – fig, pine needles, cigar-leaf, spice, menthol. There is a tannic framework on the palate, with notable dry extract but the voluptuous sweet fig and prune fruit is set at ease by a beautiful freshness and acidity, super ripe tannins, sense of umami and saltiness on the finish. For drinking now to 2030.
Domaine de La Quilla Wines
MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE SUR LIE 2022
100% Melon de Bourgogne
100% Melon de Bourgogne (12% alc.)
Quilla’s wine is a blend of wines from different terroirs in the commune of La Haye-Fouassière. Quintessential Muscadet, it offers clean, crisp fruit, with a gunflinty note on the nose, nice balancing acidity and a long minerally finish.
Michel Delhommeau Wines
MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE SUR LIE 2021
Symbiose
100% Melon de Bourgogne
100% Melon de Bourgogne (12% alc.)
This cuvée is made from 3ha of organically tended 35yo vines planted in a soil of gneiss which Michel believes conveys more minerality than the gabbro soil of the VV. It has an attractive marine, sea breeze quality on the nose, zesty, ripe fruit and a sustained finish.
MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE SUR LIE 2022
Clos Armand, Vieilles Vignes
100% Melon de Bourgogne
100% Melon de Bourgogne (12% alc.)
This is a superb cuvée, made from 70yo vines planted in a soil of gabbro. A very attractive pale gold colour with greeny glints, this is denser and more reserved than Michel’s first cuvée. It is very pure and juicy with good texture on the palate and the sustained finish reveals a mineral piquancy.
Clément Baraut Wines
SAVENNIÈRES 2022
Le Pitrouillet
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (12.5% alc.)
Bought from Nicolas Joly of La Coulée de Serrant fame, the 2ha of 45yo vines are in the lieu-dit Le Puit Rouillé (which translates as 'the rusty well'). This natural clos is surrounded by trees and tilts slightly to the north. Le Pitrouillet wine comes from the bottom of the parcel where the soils are 80cm deep over a schist and sandstone bedrock. Clément prefers direct and slow pressing to accentuate chenin’s natural depth, and this is made entirely from high quality 'coeur de presse' (see profile). It ferments in neutral oak and ages on fine lees without sulphur until bottling in the summer. It is fruit-forward but still bright and crisp with a strong saline stamp and an intriguing play on texture.
SAVENNIÈRES 2022
Le Coteau de L'Ayre
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (12.9% alc.)
The lieu dit Le Puit Rouillé is part of the Coteau de L'Ayre. This wine comes from the same parcel as Le Pitrouillet but, in this case, the grapes are from the top part of the plot where the shallow soil shows more rocks and stones – the vine roots are closer to the schist bedrock. Vinified the same way as Le Pitrouillet, the cuvée Coteau de L'Ayre shows more intensity, depth and sapid minerality – a case in point of the impact of geology and topography on wine. For drinking now to 2028.
SAVENNIÈRES ROCHE AUX MOINES 2022
Les Petites Combes
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13% alc.)
Clément Baraut is one of only 8 vignerons to own a parcel (0.4ha) in the prestigious Roche Aux Moines (33ha) that was recently awarded Grand Cru status. Planted on steep south-facing terraces built and planted by the Cistercian monks, the roots go deep into the schist bedrock while the topsoil is littered with igneous, volcanic rocks (rhyolite, spilite). Harvested from perfectly ripe, botrytis-free grapes and fermented dry, the wine has a sumptuous texture on the palate and notable umami. Rich but balanced and very long, this is a sensational wine that will need some time in a glass or carafe to unwind. Pinch of sulphur added at bottling only. For drinking now to 2030+.
VIN DE FRANCE 2022
Les Herbes Folles
40% Chenin, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Grolleau Gris
40% Chenin, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Grolleau Gris (12.5% alc.)
The chenin comes from the rebêches of Savennières (see profile) as well as some young vines. Sauvignon and the rare grolleau gris are organic-certified grapes bought from Domaine du Verger in Anjou. Fermentation in stainless steel and 6 months ageing in old barriques, the wine was bottled off with a tiny addition of SO2 (0.8g/hl). An interesting and smart blend, this is the perfect apéritif wine, sapid and digeste with moreish citrus flavours – top value for money.
Thomas Batardière Wines
L’ESPRIT LIBRE 2021
Vin de France
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13% alc.)
Most of the 30 to 90yo vines are in the lieu-dit L’Éspérance near Rablay-sur-Layon, next to the Domaine des Sablonettes (Jérémy Ménard and Thomas are mates regularly helping each other) on a gravelly plateau of red sand, quartz and clay. Thomas prefers stainless steel to accentuate chenin’s natural tension, a judicious choice in the recent hot vintages. This wine ages on fine lees without sulphur until bottling in the summer. It is fruit-forward but still bright and crisp with a strong saline stamp.
LES COCUS 2021
Vin de France
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13% alc.)
The Clos des Cocus is a climat neighbouring Montbenault on the coteau of Faye d’Anjou – the prestigious Layon’s right bank. Thomas’ 0.6ha plot (planted in 1968) is at the top of the hill therefore exposed to drying and cooling winds – perfect to prevent diseases and preserve acidity – a gentle south-west facing slope with hardly any topsoil (20-30cm) forcing vine roots to get deep into the schist bedrock. An austere terroir which makes for age-worthy, characterful and complex wines. Fermentation and ageing in 1-6yo barrels for 10 months, transfer to stainless steel for a few more months before bottling in October with low SO2. Cocus tends to naturally reduce therefore decanting does the wine well in its youth. Alive, deep, multi-layered and almost chewy. This is simply a stunning wine – soil to glass transfer showcasing the power of schist. For drinking now to 2029.
LES NOËLS DE MONTBENAULT 2020
Vin de France
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13% alc.)
From top to bottom the emblematic Montbenault covers roughly 40ha. In 2012 Thomas bought 0.25ha of fallow land in the heart of the coteau. He planted the 10% slope in 2015 with tip-top sélections massales from legendary domaines Huet and Clos Naudin (Vouvray). First release in 2018. As per the neighbouring Clos des Cocus there's hardly any topsoil, the main difference here is the high concentration of igneous, volcanic rocks (spilite and rhyolite). A soil yielding concentrated grapes of the finest quality, savoury and packed with minerals – think Richard Leroy. Vinif and élevage in stainless steel for 8 to 10 months, transfer into oak barrels for another four months (the opposite of Les Cocus), and bottled with low SO2. So much drive and character for such young vines, the reduction blows off quickly and reveals umami backbone, class and energy – the potential is huge! For drinking now to 2026.
MAMA ROSE 2018
Vin de France
40% Grolleau, 40% Chenin Blanc, 20% Cabernet Franc
40% Grolleau, 40% Chenin Blanc, 20% Cabernet Franc (12% alc.)
Thomas wanted to make a light rosé with an interesting mouthfeel and so harvested the cabernet franc early to bring tension, and the grolleau late for the aromatics. Both were pressed after one day of maceration and blended with the chenin after fermentation. It’s quite pale and aromatically expressive with notes of red fruit and pepper from the grolleau, while the chenin brings weight and texture to the palate.
CLOS DES NOËLS 2017
Vin de France
100% Cabernet Franc
100% Cabernet Franc (13% alc.)
Clos des Noëls is a lieu-dit close to Rablay-sur-Layon. Thomas owns 0.15ha planted in 1932. The soil is mostly metagraywackes – a variety of sandstone rich in clay and feldspar – with water retaining capacity well suited to cabernet franc. Thomas aims to extract fine tannins from the stems as well as skin and pips, thus vinification is whole bunch and without remontage or pigeage over a five to six week cuvaison. Both fermentation and ageing take place in stainless steel, bottling is without SO2. It's a vibrant and free expression of cabernet franc. The fruit is red and crisp, it’s light and floral with beautifully fine tannins and food friendly bitters.
OSCAR 2017
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (11% alc, 270g/l of rs)
This comes from the oldest plot (also used in L’Esprit Libre), a 90yo massal selection developed specifically to produce sweet wines: bush vines with small bunches and tightly-packed berries to promote the onset of botrytis. Oscar is only made in years when botrytis settles early, preserving high levels of acidity, and this 2017 is a perfect example of the balance for which Thomas looks. It is incredibly lifted and digeste despite its 270g/l of residual sugar, and the old vines add complexity and depth. For drinking now to 2025.
Richard Leroy Wines
LES ROULIERS 2018
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (14% alc.)
When ten years of efforts trying to establish a 1er Cru hierarchy came to nothing, rather than continue to use the Anjou appellation that had few quality associations, Richard took the nuclear option of declassifying his sensational wines to Vin de France. Reduced on the aromatics, there is a finesse and restraint to this wine (from only 0.70 ha of low yielding vines) with a mineral flavour possibly emanating from the underlying schist. Fermented completely dry with malolactic completed, no bâtonnage and no sulphur used in the cave at all, it shows chenin in its deepest and most elegant style. For drinking now to 2028+.
LES NOËLS DE MONTBENAULT 2018
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (14% alc.)
The vines here are planted in soils developed over the eroded base of an ancient volcano on the plateau of a windy ridge of hills overlooking the river Layon. Harvested from only ripe grapes (any botrytised grapes were individually cut out) and fermented dry, the wine has a sumptuous concentration on the palate, with a hint of quince and a notable mineral (irony) flavour. Rich but balanced and very long on the finish, this is an exceptional wine, it will just need some time in bottle to unwind. No sulphur at all from 2011. For drinking now to 2028+.
Deboutbertin Wines
ACHILLÉE 2019
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (13.5% alc, 6g/l of rs)
Stéphanie and Vincent produce this wine from 0.77 ha of 30yo vines located in Faye d’Anjou, grown on a north tilting plateau with 30cm topsoil where rhyolites (a heavy primary rock comprising iron, magnesium, feldspar and quartz) are dominant. Yield is a low 25hh, grapes are very slowly pressed, the juice is transferred into old barrels for a slow-paced fermentation and 18 months élevage, the finished wine is bottled without fining, filtration or sulphur. Slightly reduced when young, it offers dense confit citrus fruits and pear on the palate with a hint of spice, great balance with a mineral vibration.
PACOTILLE 2019
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (14% alc.)
Pacotille is made from 0.4 ha of 50yo vines located in Beaulieu-Sur-Layon, a stunning south-facing coteau overlooking the Layon with vines growing right onto the bedrock of dark schist, prime terroir in the Anjou Noir. Yields are less than 20hh of dense but extremely sapid juice, the finished wine has lengthy and complex aromas, beautifully combining fleshy fruit, electric acidity and salivating bitters, the typical and addictive stamp of chenin on schist. Bottled off under cap to allow residual sugar to ferment, carafeing or big glasses recommended.
BALIVERNE 2018
Vin de France
100% Grolleau
100% Grolleau (12% alc.)
This comes from 0.75 ha of 60yo vines planted on a plateau with schist and quartz as a base. Selected from a series of tries, whole bunches were gravity-fed into cuve for gentle crushing by foot, a 15 days cuvaison ensued before 12 months ageing in old barrels. Bottled without fining, filtration or sulphur, this is a brambly, cherry fruited natural wine, super digeste but with depth and good terroir print on the finish. This bottling and label are a tribute to Anatole, a Percheron horse and cherished member of the family. VLQ.
LA NOUE BLANCHARD 2017
Vin de France
100% Cabernet Franc
100% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
Named after the lieu-dit where the vineyard is located, La Noue Blanchard comes from 50 to 70yo vines on deep silty and gravelly soil over schist. This type of soil particularly suits cabernet franc as well as apple and apricot trees co-planted by Stéphanie and Vincent for biodiversity. Pruned quite short and with yields never above 20hh, they harvest small perfectly ripe grapes which are foot trodden on arrival and vinified with stems. Daily manual pigeage follows during a three weeks maceration, and ageing takes place in 10yo barrels for a year with no racking. It is a serious style of cab franc, dense, complex with very fine-grained tannins.
L'AUNIS ÉTOILÉ 2020
Vin de France
100% Pineau d'Aunis
100% Pineau d'Aunis (12.5% alc.)
Pineau d’aunis (aka chenin noir) is one of the unsung heroes of the region, an underrated grape greatly appreciated by Stéphanie and Vincent. Whole bunches are crushed by foot in an open vat and macerate 8 to 15 days, the juice is slowly and gently extracted using a manual basket press and the wine ages for a shade longer than a year on its lees. The wine offers a floral and fresh nose, a round mouthfeel with ripe strawberries and pink peppercorn flavours, and is a characterful pineau d’aunis with depth and grip.
LE PANTOUFLARD 2013
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (14.5% alc.)
2013 was an extremely difficult vintage with a cool and stormy season, grapes struggled to reach maturity, therefore Stéphanie and Vincent decided to harvest late and include bunches affected by noble rot. Following a four years oxidative ageing (no top-up) in one old barrique, this sweet wine was bottled (once completely stable) without fining, filtration or sulphur. Perfectly balanced thanks to a very well-integrated volatile acidity, this is a stunningly complex and unique wine with lengthy aromas reminiscent of malmsey Madeira and Palo Cortado, the perfect match for anything chocolate or the finest cigar. VVLQ. For drinking now to 2030.
Julien Delrieu Wines
PONT BOURCEAU 2023
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (10% alc.)
Lieu-dit Pont Bourceau planted in 1973 – the plot is usually harvested in three 'passages' and the resulting juice of the first one makes the cuvée Pont Bourceau; it is fermented and aged in fibreglass and stainless steel, usually bottled without SO2 in February/March. This is a 'vin de printemps' – fresh and quaffable with a schist stamp that brings drive to the palate.
LA JOUE 2022
Vine de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (13% alc.)
The grapes also come from the lieu-dit Pont Bourceau but are harvested one to two weeks later (during the following two 'tries' – see cuvée Pont Bourceau). Half of the wine is fermented and aged in 228ltr barrels (bought from local hero and friend Stéphane Bernaudeau), it was bottled without fining or filtration. This is a textural and food-friendly chenin with a bone-marrow-like protein quality. Of note: La Joue is the name of Julien’s father’s farm in the Pyrenées.
LE JEAU 2022
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (14% alc.)
Lieu-dit Le Jeau planted in 1955 – a west-facing schist slope overlooking the Lys river (that flows into the Layon). Interestingly, this plot is adjacent to Les Nourrissons of Bernaudeau fame. Fermented and aged in old 228ltr barrels with no SO2 added, this is the top chenin at the domaine, often harvested mid to end of September, it combines power and structure with salty bitters enhanced by a lengthy electric mineral stamp. Attention grand vin!
LE JEAU ROUGE 2023
Vin de France
60% Grolleau, 40% Cabernet Franc
60% Grolleau, 40% Cabernet Franc (11.5% alc.)
This is a blend of grapes from two different lieux-dits: Le Jeau (see cuvée Le Jeau), and Saint-Martin on deep gravelly soil with a good proportion of clay. Each variety is vinified separately in fibreglass vats, whole bunches are lightly foot-trodden and macerate for a week with one pigeage a day by hand. Bottled without fining or filtration, 10mg/l SO2 might be added. A delicious spicy and juicy fruit with high drinkability.
Stéphane Bernaudeau Wines
LES ONGLÉS 2021
Vin de France
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (11.5% alc.)
On average Les Onglés suffers frost one year in two, it’s a cold spot here and the wine’s name refers to the frozen fingers you often get when working in this vineyard. This dry white comes from less than 2 ha of 40 to 60yo vines planted in a superb terroir of schist on a gentle south-west facing slope. Aged in 4-10yo barrels with malos completed, it was bottled after a year with a low total sulphur level of 40mg/l. It is tense and racy and benefits from carafeing (when young), crunchy bitters, lifted texture, orchard fruits, thyme and white pepper make for an outstanding bottle. For drinking now to 2028.
LES NOURRISSONS 2020
Vin de France
97% Chenin, 3% Verdelho
97% Chenin, 3% Verdelho (13% alc.)
This hectare of chenin planted in 1910 was bought in 2000 from Eric Calcutt, an exceptional but ephemeral vigneron-artiste who made unicorn wines, oxidative in style, under the name The Picrate from 1996 to 1999. The vines sit on a plateau of schist that descends gently to the Lys river, a tiny off-shoot of the Layon, and intriguingly, this vineyard also includes 3% of the Portuguese grape variety verdelho (which he prizes for adding extra iodine/saline notes) though Stéphane has no idea how this came to be planted here! Aged in older oak barrels, it is a dense wine offering a rare vigour and energy, with deeply set fruit and with an incredible texture and persistence. It is a privilege to work with a wine as good as this, which like Richard Leroy's Noëls de Montbenault is one of France's greatest dry whites. Best carafed when young. For drinking now to 2028.
Le Petit Saint-Vincent Wines
SAUMUR CHAMPIGNY 2021
100% Cabernet Franc
100% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
A selection from the 50 different plots of the domaine, usually vines averaging 40yo on gentle slopes with sandy, gravelly and loamy soils. Macerated for three weeks in concrete vats this cuvée has an attractive black cherry nose, packed with peppery raspberry fruit and nicely underscored by crunchy acidity.
SAUMUR CHAMPIGNY 2019
Les Poyeux
100% Cabernet Franc
100% Cabernet Franc (13.5% alc.)
The most unique terroir in the appellation has a layer of very fine aeolian sand (1.5m on the highest part of the slope) over tuffeau, almost like a dune sitting on limestone bedrock. Vinified in concrete vats and aged for a year in foudres, the 0.87ha of 55yo vines yield a wine with great heart and the most velvety tannins (a typical feature of the sandy soils), the weight of red and black fruits is perfectly balanced by a very long saline finish. For drinking now to 2030.
Domaine de Bellivière Wines
JASNIÈRES 2022
Prémices
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13% alc, 10g/l of rs)
Bellivière’s entry-level chenin blanc is a selection of the most open and forward barrels from their younger vines (5-20yo) in Jasnières. The fruit comes from a range of sites on flinty clay soils over tuffeau, fermented in 5-8yo old 350ltr oak barrels and aged for 12 months on average. Total SO2 40mg/l. While it is the most open and giving white in their arsenal with its beautifully detailed orchard fruit and pear, it doesn’t lack complexity and shows a strong mineral print. Usually demi-sec, the residual sugar is always perfectly balanced with lovely acidity. Great value and a brilliant match with fragrant and spicy food.
JASNIÈRES 2022
Rosiers
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13% alc, 7g/l of rs)
Jasnières, a 6km long crescent-shaped appellation of south-facing vines on a steep hillside comprising clay studded with flint overlying limestone. Same plots as Prémices (5-20yo vines), Rosiers is a selection of the best and most age-worthy barrels. Aged for ten months in 5-8yo 350ltr barriques with malos permitted, there is more depth and density in this cuvée (compared to Prémices). Total SO2 30mg/l. The quince fruit is detailed and precise with floral notes, thrilling tension between fruit and acidity, the residual sugar is perfectly balanced with notable bitters and a mineral lick of salinity.
JASNIÈRES 2019
Calligramme
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13.5% alc.)
80yo vines here from nine parcels that in a good year yield 20hh as opposed to the young vines giving 35hh. This is one of Bellivière’s emblematic wines, that will age effortlessly way beyond the point when most fine Burgundies have started to tire. Calligramme (a poem where the text is arranged in such a way as to create an image) is dry and tense, it has a peach backdrop on the nose but is still tight and unwound, followed by a very deep, sustained palate, quite pithy, with a lovely energy. It is grippy too, and there is a perfumed interest coming from the fruit, all wildflowers and the scented orchard fruit of chenin blanc. Christine advises that the family like to drink this wine when it is ten years old. For drinking now to 2030+.
COTEAUX-DU-LOIR 2020
Vieilles Vignes Éparses
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13.5% alc.)
80yo vines here ('éparses' means scattered) with more of a south-western tilt than the Jasnières vines, planted in a clay soil with a little flint overlying limestone. The wine aged in 20% new to 4yo 350ltr barrels. With less exposure to the south, the wine's aromatics are slightly reductive in its youth with a pear-skin character emerging and distinct salinity, cool and reticent. The palate follows this aromatic cue, showing an incisive structure, with reserved, confit lemon, grapefruit, quince and green tea notes laced with minerals and charged with a thrilling acid freshness and quite electric finish. Simply beautiful, this is a wine of the highest class. For drinking now to 2030+.
COTEAUX-DU-LOIR 2021
Rouge Gorge
100% Pineau d'Aunis
100% Pineau d'Aunis (12.5% alc.)
45yo vines planted in heavy, siliceous clay over limestone which give yields that the Nicolas family limit to a maximum of 25hh, destalked 100%, and cuve fermented with just a little pigeage 'à la main' with a three weeks cuvaison. Pressed and assembled it was then aged in old demi-muids for a year and bottled with no filtration and a total of 30mg/l of sulphur. It has a hauntingly beautiful perfume of wild strawberries, mulberries, cracked pepper with a floral note, it follows through on the palate with concentration and a silken feel. The finish is very pure, cleansing and saline with a peppery twist. Best served lightly chilled (14 to 16C).
COTEAUX-DU-LOIR 2020
Hommage à Louis Derré
100% Pineau d'Aunis
100% Pineau d'Aunis (15% alc.)
Bellivière’s top red wine comes from one hectare of 90 to 110yo vines of pineau d'aunis grown on heavy clay and silex soils over limestone in eight tiny parcels. Yields rarely reach 25hh, the destemmed foot-trodden grapes are vinified in tronconic wooden tanks and given one month maceration. The wine is aged for 12-18 months in 3-5yo demi-muids before bottling with no filtration and 20mg/l of total sulphur. A touch darker than Rouge Gorge with purple hints, the nose is beautifully perfumed and complex, with layers of dark fruit, cracked pepper, incense, tea, violets and a mineral edge. The palate is dense with firm tannins and exceptional length, a serious bottling for a cépage often associated with quaffable wines. This is a tribute to their altruistic neighbour, Louis Derré, who helped them at the beginning of their adventure – and it could well be the finest pineau d’aunis on the planet. For drinking now to 2030.
Bertrand Galbrun Wines
BOURGUEIL 2020
Amicale
100% Cabernet Franc
100% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
Bertrand’s first cuvée comes from low yields (25-30hh) of biodynamically worked 30yo vines planted in Restigné (sand and gravel soils with limestone at depth). Fermentation is carried out by gentle infusion with just three or four pumping overs during two weeks, ageing for ten months in cement. This is a lovely 'vin de soif', it has a clear mid-red colour with cherry glints, and attractive red fruits on the palate. Low sulphur of around 30mg/l total.
BOURGUEIL 2020
Impétueuse
100% Cabernet Franc
100% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
In a normal year Bertrand makes just 3,000 bottles of this excellent wine from 45yo vines in a fine lieu-dit on a plateau with soils of deep gravels overlying limestone. The wine was cuve aged to retain all its fruit, has a dark raspberry colour, is well-balanced with some spice on the nose and sappy cherry fruit, fine grained tannins and is very clear cut with a saline mineral quality on the finish. SO2 around 30 mg/l total.
Château de Coulaine Wines
CHINON 2020
Clos de Turpenay
100% Cabernet Franc
100% Cabernet Franc (13.5% alc.)
This comes from 30 to 60yo vines planted high on a due south-facing hillside in a soil of sand, limestone and yellow 'millarge' (soil derived from underlying shell-rich sands). Fermented in cuve and aged in 4-5yo 400ltr barrels, this age-worthy Chinon has notable red fruit aromas that lead to a palate with a marked saline/mineral flavour due to the limestone bedrock. Amazing structure here with ripe tannins and beautiful length. For drinking now to 2030+.
Michel Autran Wines
VOUVRAY 2019
Les Enfers Tranquilles
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (14.5% alc.)
This comes from the lieu-dit Les Enfers translating as 'hell', a particularly hot south-facing site in Noizay, where Michel owns 1.5ha of 50yo vines on 'perruches' (flinty clay-limestone soils). As per both cuvées, fermentation starts in stainless steel, it is then racked off by gravity into barrels (4-12yo) bought from Vincent Carême. The wine is transferred into stainless vats after a year, and stays there for another 12 months. Sulphur was added at débourbage and before bottling for a total of 40mg/l. An avid Jazz fan, Michel likens Les Enfers Tranquilles to a soprano saxophone for its tension, crystalline quality, incredible length, and perfect balance. Loaded with baked peach, confit quince and balanced by crushed stone minerality, it delivers a mouth-watering finish that just won't quit. This is Vouvray for white Burgundy-lovers and therefore represents astonishing value. For drinking now to 2030.
VOUVRAY 2018
Ciel Rouge
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (14% alc.)
Named after the French saying "ciel rouge du matin, patouille en chemin" which relates to "red sky in morning, sailor's warning". It is a reference to the red clay-limestone soils (aubuis) which tend to 'patouille' (become heavy and sticky) when clogged up with rain. This superb Vouvray terroir is planted with 80yo vines that yield 25hh on average. The wine has a pale bright gold color, with subtle aromas of stone fruits and honeycomb toffee. The palate has a smooth texture with chalky, almost electric acidity and complex herbal notes. Although vinified the same way as Les Enfers Tranquilles it shows more weight and depth, this is nevertheless equally crystalline – a classy bottling indeed.
Vincent Raimbault Wines
VOUVRAY SEC 2021
Bel Air
100% Chenin
100% Chenin (13.5% alc.)
Zippy fruit and a nice mineral touch on the nose, it is clean and dry on the palate, with good lift on the finish. It would make a good accompaniment to terrine de poissons.
Domaine Ricard Wines
TOURAINE 2023
Le Petiot
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (12.5% alc.)
Really good sauvignon here thanks to organic viticulture, very low yields (45hh compared to most Sancerre at 60hh), good flint-rich terroir and fine touch from Vincent Ricard. The wine has lovely texture, citrus and mineral notes with a nice herbal touch of mint and lemon verbena.
Vincent Gaudry Wines
SANCERRE 2022
Tournebride
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13.5% alc.)
Vincent explained that when wine was still sold by the barrel, the négociants of Paris used to blend the three different terroirs of Sancerre in equal parts to make a wine that was complete. A nod to this old tradition, Tournebride is a blend of 'caillotes' from Verdigny, 'terres blanches' from Sury-en-Vaux and 'silex' from Saint-Satur from 6 to 40yo vines. A very pure expression of Sancerre, delicately perfumed with a touch of gras and mineral tension.
SANCERRE 2021
Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13% alc.)
Mostly one parcel in the lieu-dit La Rabotine, a west exposed slope on Kimmeridgian clay (terres blanches) in Sury-en-Vaux where the vines are 50 to 90yo. Ploughed by horse, the topsoil is no more than 30-40cm before reaching the limestone bedrock which is hard to penetrate for the roots. Vinified and aged in tronconic oak vats until bottling in July, it’s quite a step up from Tournebride, more restrained aromatically and more complex, deeply textured with a very intense mineral backbone.
SANCERRE 2020
Constellation du Scorpion
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (14% alc.)
Gaudry’s third cuvée comes from the lieu-dit Les Bouloises in Saint-Satur, a SW exposed slope just under a wood where the soil is silex – a mix of flint with loose, quite sandy siliceous clay. The concentration of silex on the surface increases as you travel up the slope and at the top the floor is completely covered with flint. Like Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes it was vinified and aged in tronconic oak vats until bottling in July. The silex seems to bring more tension here, deeply textured again and very bright with flinty undertones. Another sensational wine from Vincent.
SANCERRE 2020
Vincengétorix
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
Vincent’s reds are an absolute joy to drink and testament to Sancerre’s potential to make fine, delicately framed pinot. A blend of three plots on Kimmeridgian clay in Sury-en-Vaux, one on the flat and exposed to the sun from dawn till dusk, and the others on south to south-east facing slopes. The vines are 20-40yo and the soil is deeper with up to 50-60cm of clay before the limestone bedrock. Vincent uses whole bunches and adapts the level of extraction to obtain very fine tannins. Ageing takes place in tronconic vats and stainless steel in varying proportions to suit the vintage. It’s a very pretty, elegant style of pinot with beautiful texture and a long, saline finish.
Domaine Thomas Wines
SANCERRE 2020
Le Pierrier
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (14.5% alc.)
This cuvée was the clear winner in a blind tasting of 20 domaines that we conducted in the winter of 2018. It is a blend of all the 'caillotes' (limestone pebbles) parcels of the domaine, the vines are 25yo on average, vinified in stainless steel and aged for at least a year. Quite textured for a Sancerre it shows restraint and precision, expressing its terroir rather than simple varietal character.
SANCERRE 2019
Grand’Chaille
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13.5% alc.)
Grand’Chaille comes from slightly older plots (40yo) on ‘silex’ in the villages of Saint-Satur, Ménétréol and Thauvenay. The silex gives this cuvée a slightly broader profile than Le Pierrier, there’s more gras on the palate but it’s also more incisive. Its mineral backbone brings focus and it lengthens the palate which finishes with intense notes of fennel and flint.
Gérard Boulay Wines
SANCERRE 2023
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (12.5% alc.)
This comes from 35yo vines on the hills of Chavignol from where the best Sancerres emanate. Vinified and aged in cuve, it has a lovely, bright pale colour with greeny glints. On the nose it offers pure, restrained sauvignon, with an evident salty character and hint of iodine which follows through on the palate with a touch of lemon, ripe grapefruit, fennel and blackcurrant leaf.
SANCERRE 2022
Monts Damnés
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13.5% alc.)
This outstanding wine comes from 40yo vines located on the central, finest plot of this famous hillside. Vinified in 3-4yo barrels (good Tronçais oak), then aged in cuve. Restrained on the nose, it has much more evident weight and exotic fruit, then becomes really quite racy with salty, iodine notes on the finish. For drinking now to 2030+.
SANCERRE 2022
Clos de Beaujeu
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13% alc.)
This comes from 30-60yo vines that were previously in the ownership of the Bourges cathedral (for 500 years!). The vineyard is very steep and south-east facing, helping to give the wine a little more backbone, nerve and salinity than the due south facing Monts Damnés. Vinified in cuve, then aged 100% in 3-4yo 300ltr barrels, it will age magnificently. For drinking now to 2030+.
SANCERRE 2022
La Côte
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13% alc.)
One of Boulay’s top cuvées, this comes from the same Grande Côte hillside as the Cotat wine of the same name. A due south-facing hillside, the soil here is much chalkier than Monts Damnés. It gives an entirely different range of more exotic flavours with passion fruit to the fore with a menthol hint, but at the same time retains good tension and is firmly structured, vital and grippy with a saline twist on the finish. For drinking now to 2030.
SANCERRE 2022
Comtesse
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13% alc.)
Gérard’s top cuvée comes from 0.40 ha of 65yo vines planted on the prime slope in the heart of Monts Damnés. As long ago as 1870, Comtesse was considered to be Sancerre's finest vineyard – Gérard first rented the vineyard back in 2004. Vinified in 300ltr barrels and then aged in cuve. A wine of the highest class that will age superbly, on the palate it has a silky fruit quality, good matter, touch of verbena and a most attractive hint of bitterness on the finish. For drinking now to 2030+.
SANCERRE 2022
Sibylle
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
100% pinot noir from old vines gives this supremely elegant wine with fine fruit, salivating minerality and a sustained finish. The perfect rosé, terroir-driven, food-friendly and extremely drinkable.
Domaine Mabillot Wines
REUILLY 2022
100% Sauvignon
100% Sauvignon (13.5% alc.)
The young Mabillot brothers now in charge of this 8ha domaine produce a sauvignon far removed from the sulphur bound lean wines that predominate in the Loire. From lower yields than is the norm in Sancerre, the 25yo vines planted in Kimmeridgian limestone with many shellfish fossils weathered out to the surface, give a wine with a good weight of elderflower fruit, and a lick of salinity on the finish.
Château Graves de Pez Wines
SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2020
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot (14% alc.)
Made by Maxime St-Martin who, in his late twenties, is the youngest vigneron in the appellation. This is a 3ha estate where the 45yo vines are planted in gravelly soils overlying limestone clay. Aged in 25% new to 3yo barrels, this wine has a bright ruby colour, an aromatic richness characterised by red fruit and spices, good intensity of fruit on the palate, a suppleness of texture and fine well integrated tannins. For drinking now to 2030+.
Osamu Uchida Wines
HAUT-MÉDOC 2021
Miracle
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
100% Cabernet Sauvignon (12.5% alc.)
Osamu has just 0.60ha of 30yo vines in a remote spot near Cissac-Médoc surrounded by pine forests from which he produces just 2,400bts in a good year. All steps of vinification and élevage are carried out by hand in his tiny cellar (no machinery) – grapes are destemmed, a cool fermentation with manual pigeage follows, the extraction is extremely gentle (a partial semi-carbonic maceration occurs), the ageing is done in old 500ltr barrels, and there's no fining or filtration. It's all about finesse, the wine has a very delicate colour with a silky texture, lovely blackberry and blackcurrant fruit with energy and salivating finely-knitted tannins. SO2 total around 40mg/l.
Domaine du Jaugaret Wines
SAINT-JULIEN 2012
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec (13% alc.)
A jewel of a wine made from a clutch of low yielding 50yo plus vines in Beychevelle, surrounded by vines from the famed St-Julien Crus of Ducru- Beaucaillou and Gruaud-Larose. Aged in 2-10yo barrels for three years and racked every four months, it is no wonder that in its youth it doesn’t taste anything like wines aged in new oak that are then rushed into bottle after 18 months. Whether the authorities deem his wine St-Julien or Vin de France, it’s all the same to owner Jean-François Fillastre. This is strictly for those with a little patience who can age this wine. Given proper ageing, its purity and finesse make it a rival for its Grand Cru Classé neighbours. For drinking now to 2040.
Château Micalet Wines
HAUT-MÉDOC 2020
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot (13% alc.)
Really good Haut-Médoc from a 7ha organically certified property in Cussac-Fort-Médoc where the 30yo vines are planted in sandy gravelly soil. On the nose the wine is most attractive with a slightly floral element, feeling very close to the grape in style. Extraction and oak ageing have been sensitively judged, the wine offers ripe plum and herbal notes, and is composed and well balanced. Exceptional value for money.
Château Bel Air Marquis d’Aligre Wines
MARGAUX 2001
35% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec
35% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec (12.5% alc.)
It’s quite rare to be the first UK importers of this wine direct from the estate (it’s sometimes available via the grey secondary market) from a vigneron who has already produced 68 vintages in his life and is 85yo (in 2018)! The vines here are suitably old, some over 100yo, from the west of the appellation above Virefougasse, where there is a fine, sandy texture to the soils. Jean-Pierre Boyer has never followed trends, dispensing with all oak for ageing back in the 1960s and instead carrying out a long patient three years élevage in cement cuves, and then selling the wine when it’s at least ten years old. All his wines are renowned for their long ageing capacity. Tasted from cuve the young juices show incredible breed and class, they are very pure (no herbicides) and harmonious with an old viney stamp and reserve. The 2001 is quite open, offering a brick red colour, black cherries and red currants, mid weight with good intensity on the palate. For drinking now to 2030.
Closeries des Moussis Wines
HAUT-MÉDOC 2020
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
High density, biodynamically tended vines worked by their own horses, situated on the sandy, gravelly plateau of Sénéjac near Le Pian-Médoc. Average yield of 35hh for 45yo vines. The extraction is very delicate by occasional pigeage, and the wine is aged for 18 months in sandstone amphoras as well as new (10%) to 7yo 300 and 500ltr barrels (rather than the traditional 225ltr). It would be difficult to find a purer fruited wine (using older/bigger barrels and low sulphur really help) which mingle black and red fruits, with a dynamism, freshness and very digestible quality, and fine tannins on the finish. And we don’t usually mention labels, but the design is lovely too, and is just another sign of the care and love behind this wine. 25mg/l SO2 total. For drinking now to 2030.
HAUT-MÉDOC 2019
Baragane
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot Noir, 10% Cabernet Franc/Goudable/Malbec/Petit Verdot/Carménère/Vieux Cépages
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot Noir, 10% Cabernet Franc/Goudable/Malbec/Petit Verdot/Carménère/Vieux Cépages (13.5% alc.)
This particular bottling comes from pre-phylloxera vines located in Cantenac (Margaux) on silty-clay soils, a 0.4ha field blend with forgotten and unknown varieties. Expert pépiniériste Lilian Bérillon took some cuttings to study and propagate them. Wild leeks locally called 'baragane' regularly grow among the vines. Yields rarely go above 10hh, the grapes are carefully destemmed to keep the berries intact, and transferred to a 10yo 600ltr barrel for fermentation. After three weeks of maceration the wine goes into 5yo 225ltr oak barrels for élevage during 18 months. Around 700 bottles and a few magnums were made following a light filtration and less than 20mg/l of sulphur added. The century-old vines and gentle winemaking techniques confered texture, structure and depth to this incredible wine. Complex, lifted and high-tone this is Médoc in its most beautifully classic and restrained style; a unique glimpse in Bordeaux's past (and future?). A few years of cellaring will reward the lucky few. Best carafed in advance when young. Drink now to 2030+.
MARGAUX 2019
40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc
40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc (13.5% alc.)
One parcel in Margaux on the typical terroir of graves, the vines average 25yo and yield around 40hh. Fermentation in cement vats, delicate extraction by occasional pigeage, and ageing in old 225, 300, 400, 600ltr barrels. Only 1 g/hl SO2 added after malolactic completed. Rustic and wild in its youth it requires some air to relax and display complex floral notes on the nose. Grippy texture, salivating tannins, gamey flavours with spices and acidulated griotte cherries on a lengthy finish. For drinking now to 2030.
Château des Graviers Wines
MARGAUX 2018
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, Carménère and Malbec
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot, Carménère and Malbec (13% alc.)
Each grape in this wine is produced on the terroir best suited to its qualities and vigneron Christophe Landry practises a different method of pruning for each grape. His merlot is aged in 400ltr barrels and cabernet sauvignon in 225ltr barrels. The percentage of new oak is adjusted according to the strength of the vintage – fluctuating around 30% – the balance comprising 1-2yo barrels. It offers a clear, bright black cherry colour, a kernel of rich fruit with great depth, and superb texture with good freshness and marked mineral flavours. Very, very long on the finish. For drinking now to 2030+.
MARGAUX 2018
Quintessence
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 10% Merlot, 5% Malbec
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 10% Merlot, 5% Malbec (13.5% alc.)
Christophe only makes this wine in good vintages and then selects the components by taste from the barrels/cuves/amphoras that please him most, making a bit more than 2,000 bottles from around 0.50ha of vines averaging 30yo. The juice is vinified by parcel and by grape variety for one year in a mix of new and 1yo 400ltr barrels, 600ltr cuves 'en bois', 170ltr clay jars and 500ltr amphoras. It is then assembled and aged for a further year in 30% new 400ltr barrels, 30% 1yo 400ltr barrels and 40% in 170ltr clay jars. As will be clear, there is a lot of work and thought involved! Christophe is driven by texture in his wines, and ensuring that oak élevage does not dry out the fruit in any way – all the wood used in his barrels are chosen at source by Christophe and then the wood is aged for a minimum of four years before being made into barrels. The combination of grape varieties and selection of the best lots combine to give a wine with a thrilling purity of fruit, with more depth and resonance than the main cuvée, and a marked mineral salinity on the finish. For drinking now to 2035.
Clos du Jaugueyron Wines
HAUT-MÉDOC 2016
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot (12.5% alc.)
This is a wine of real poise from a small domaine where no effort is spared to produce exceptional wine from biodynamic viticulture. Mid-plum in colour, the nose is understated with hints of cherry and mocha. The palate offers supple, silky fruit. Oak has been well handled and the fine tannins are well knitted in. 2016 was a beautiful classical age-worthy vintage, it brings depth and complexity. Low sulphur of around 25mg/l total. For drinking now to 2028.
MARGAUX 2018
Nout
55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon
55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% alc.)
Nout (Egyptian goddess of water and fertility) comes from 25yo vines planted in a gravel-clay soil in the lieu-dit of Tertre. Yields are a low 29hh, and the wine was aged for a year in 50% new oak and 50% 1yo barrels. We love this cuvée with its higher proportion of merlot making it relatively open in its youth, it has the purity, clarity of fruit and elegance that you come to expect from Jaugueyron, with a mineral fleck of salinity on the finish. For drinking now to 2030.
MARGAUX 2017
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc (13% alc.)
Clos du Jaugueyron’s top cuvée is a selection from specific parcels and barrels oriented towards cabernet on the best terroirs – the soils are deeper and more gravelly in the higher part of the vineyards where cabernet is usually planted, and sandier for merlot in the lower part. This cuvée is aged for 12 months in 85% new and 15% one-year-old barrels, then allowed nine months in cuve to settle. Michel adapts the proportion of whole bunches each year to find balance in a given vintage. This has a dark cherry colour, very sensitive extraction, the class and reserve of cabernet, and terrific fine-grained tannins on a long finish. An outstanding wine for drinking now to 2035.
THE RISK-TAKERS 2020
Vin de France
50% Petit Verdot, 50% Merlot
50% Petit Verdot, 50% Merlot (12% alc.)
Michel & Stéphanie attended our London trade tasting 'Bordeaux The Risk-Takers' back in March 2019. On their way back to the Médoc, they dreamed about creating a new cuvée, a special one to be labelled with the striking visual from the event's poster. Michel explains, "I wanted to make a 'poulsard-like' Bordeaux, an extremely 'digeste' wine with lovely bitters – mission impossible with our varieties and climate, right?". The resulting wine comes from vines on graves soils around Macau (Haut-Médoc); hand-destemmed petit verdot steeped in free-run juice merlot for a short cuvaison (without extraction) in concrete vats. Eight months ageing in old 400ltr barrels, and bottled with a homeopathic dose of SO2 only. 1,100 bottles produced, intended for drinking with friends and family. Stéphanie adds, "we loved this event, we were thrilled by the dynamism of the crowd, and got touched by the poster design – the visual captures the essence of what we do, it inspired us." Special dedication to designer Mateusz Piekarski at GPWorks, merci Monsieur!
Château Moutte-Blanc Wines
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2019
50% Merlot, 25% Petit Verdot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon
50% Merlot, 25% Petit Verdot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% alc.)
Stunning wine from a 3ha vineyard planted in 1939 in the Margaux commune of Macau. It's rare to find a Bordeaux Supérieur in the Médoc, the more so when it has such a high percentage of petit verdot. Vigneron Patrice de Bortoli is the petit verdot specialist in the whole of Bordeaux – the grape gives distinct freshly milled black pepper and spicy notes to the wine. Oak aged for 14 months in recent barrels, this has an elegance and unforced texture only displayed by wines with real breed. Best carafed pre-service.
HAUT-MÉDOC 2020
Marguerite
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
100% Cabernet Sauvignon (14% alc.)
Patrice, whose estate qualifies as one of 46 Crus Artisans, has a tiny plot of 0.30ha on a superb terroir of reddish coloured gravel opposite Ch Cantemerle in Macau. Here the vines are 20yo and give a superb wine, aged in a mix of new, one and two year old barrels, with a class, reserve and elegance of dark cedar flecked fruit. A real bargain. For drinking now to 2030.
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2020
Moisin
100% Petit Verdot
100% Petit Verdot (14.5% alc.)
Moutte Blanc’s top wine comes from 0.70ha of gnarled 80yo PV, 300 metres from the estuary, planted in ‘Palus’, a pebbly, clay soil. Although PV is very capricious and demands more than twice as much work in the vineyards as merlot, the spectacular wine that results is worth the effort. Given a low temperature extraction (necessary for PV) it was aged in 60% new oak with the balance from one and 2yo barrels. It was racked by an ancient practice ‘à l’esquive’, barrel by barrel, to avoid pumping and filtration, and fined by egg white in each barrel (half an hour’s work per barrel!) again to avoid pumping. It offers a fabulous bright dark plum colour, dark fruits and pepper on the nose, is very complete wine with depth and complexity, a fine tannic structure and is fresh and persistent on the finish. For drinking now to 2030+.
Château Haut-Lagrange Wines
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2017
50% Sauvignon, 50% Sémillon
50% Sauvignon, 50% Sémillon (12.5% alc.)
This is a very thoughtfully made white, 90% aged in cuve and the balance in two new barrels. A pale gold colour, it has peach flesh on the nose, citrus fruits on the palate, and is very harmonious with a subtle stamp from the complex terroir, which leaves stony, saline notes on the finish. At its best after five years from vintage according to Ghislain Boutemy.
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2017
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot (13% alc.)
This is made from 2.7ha of superbly sited vines just below Haut-Bailly, where the topsoil is gravelly with limestone-clay beneath, and a 5.75ha parcel next to Rochemorin where there are also deep gravels but a touch more clay. The vines are planted on very good rootstock and yields are lower than average for the appellation. Aged 60% in cuve and 40% in new barrels for 18 months, there is a quality to the fruit that only the best terroirs give; it is very harmonious again, and nothing is out of place or exaggerated. The black fruits, blackcurrants and ripe plums have a touch of pepper, all the time relieved by a perfect acidity.
Château La Grave Singalier Wines
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR 2020
Château du Barrailh
75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% alc.)
From vineyards on the banks of the River Garonne, this wine misses out on the Graves appellation by only 200 metres. Soft and fruity with an attractive cedary fragrance.
Clos 19 Bis Wines
VIN DE FRANCE 2017
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
Usually Vincent Quirac produces one red and a Sauternes from his immaculately tended 2 ha of vines. Back in 2015 (and again in 2018) he also produced a second young vine red, but the quantities were too low in 2017, after the crop was ravaged by a late frost. His sole red in 2017 comes from vines averaging more than 50yo in a limestone-clay soil in Ilats in the Graves appellation and is certified organic by Ecocert. Cuve aged, this wine feels very close to the grapes, with fresh fruit and a hint of liquorice and bay leaf on the nose, a brilliant play of fruit on the palate and notable salinity on the finish. Very low total sulphur level of 25mg/l. Best carafed.
SAUTERNES 2016
90% Sémillon, 5% Muscadelle, 5% Sauvignon
90% Sémillon, 5% Muscadelle, 5% Sauvignon (12% alc, 133g/l of rs)
Vincent came across a tiny 0.30ha of ancient vines in Sauternes when the owner, an older lady, approached him. She asked if he’d look after her vines, the condition was that he let her have two bottles of the finished wine, he gave her 24! The botrytised must is vinified and aged in 1-2yo barrels, the nose is expressive while the palate is textural, and the finish is long with spices and poached pears aromas.
Rousset-Peyraguey Wines
AISTHÉSIE 2010
SIGP
80% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle
80% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle (12.5% alc, 220g/l of rs)
Aged for 2.5 years in a mix of 100yo acacia barrels (which help to preserve acidity) and oak, protected by natural volcanic sulphur, this wine comes from minute yields of 6hh from a parcel closest to Yquem where there is a sandy topsoil and blue clay and cobalt beneath. It has floral and spicy bread aromas and the fruit is notable for fresh quince. Unfined and unfiltered.
PUPHLUNS 2013
SIGP
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle (12.5% alc, 308g/l of rs)
Puphluns was an Etruscan god equivalent to Dionysus in Greek religion. This cuvée comes from old vines yielding around 4hh harvested in different 'passages' through October and November – Alain explains, "we only picked when the moon was in one of the 'air constellations' which I believe enhances acidity into the grapes and finished wine". After a year fermenting in cuve, it was aged for seven years in a mix of oak and 100yo acacia barrels. Very complex stewed citrus fruits and spices on the palate, it is rich and sumptuous and yet as ever with Rousset-P wines there is a vein of acidity that keeps everything in balance. Unfined and unfiltered.
CRÈME DE TÊTE - TEERTHYATRA 2011
SIGP
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle (12.5% alc, 380g/l of rs)
'Crème de Tête' wines are only made in top vintages from a selection of the best grapes affected by botrytis cinerea. In 2011 Alain identified five plots where grapes had a pronounced "goût d'oranges amères" – harvested through October, the plots were vinified altogether and aged for seven years in old oak and acacia barrels. Amber in colour, it has a sumptuously rich depth of confit orange zest and citrus fruits with hazelnuts and a little spice on the finish. Very harmonious with a superb play on the palate lifted by lingering bitters and umami. Teerthyatra means pilgrimage in Indian, this is a tribute to a country Alain loves and regularly travels to.
CRÈME DE TÊTE 2012
SIGP
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle (13% alc, 380g/l of rs)
The Crème de Tête 2012 was made from grapes harvested the third week of December "when the moon was in the constellation of Leo, a fire constellation that brings power and plenitude". Alain sprays some mineral (silica based) biodynamic preparations to help the shrivelled grapes holding onto the vines so late into the season – reaching extreme concentration (the unicorn Crème de Tête 2005 was harvested during the last days of December!). Aged for eight years in both oak and acacia barrels, this is fuller and richer than the 2011 and 2013, viscous on the palate and slightly hidden at opening, it develops into a stunningly complex wine balanced by layers of umami flavours.
CRÈME DE TÊTE 2013
SIGP
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle
90% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Muscadelle (13% alc, 380g/l of rs)
This 2013 was made from two separate 'tries' in October and November, both under the constellation of Leo as per all Crème de Tête wines (see 2012 vintage). Aged for eight years in the usual oak and acacia barrels, this is more lifted than the 2011 and 2012 with salivating acids, refreshing bitters and bright aromas of bergamot, Corsican mandarin and juicy tropical fruits. A more classical vintage according to Alain, "très droit et d'un équilibre magnifique!".
Château Dauphiné-Rondillon Wines
LOUPIAC 2010
Cuvée d’Or
75% Sémillon, 25% Sauvignon
75% Sémillon, 25% Sauvignon (13.5% alc, 160.7g/l of rs)
Loupiac is an appellation on steep gravelly banks of the right bank of the Garonne, opposite Sauternes. This is the château’s top cuvée from 70yo sémillon and 20yo sauvignon. It has a rich gold colour, intense fruit on the nose and fine concentration on the palate – nuts, honey, marmalade and a touch of vanilla, with excellent relief and balance.
Château du Champ des Treilles Wines
CDT BLANC 2022
Vin de France
34% Sémillon, 33% Muscadelle, 33% Sauvignon
34% Sémillon, 33% Muscadelle, 33% Sauvignon (13% alc.)
Corinne is fortunate to have 3ha of white varieties over 60yo. The vines are located atop a hill and the soil is full of flint. Fermentation rumbles on gently over a couple of months (malolactic fermentation is allowed) in a mix of cuve and cement eggs. A very elegant wine of real finesse, with a relatively high proportion of muscadelle playing its part, providing gentle, floral aromas and flavours. As it ages it takes on delicious apricot, honey, and hay notes.
CDT ROUGE 2022
Vin de France
50% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot
50% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot (14.5% alc.)
Corinne and Jean-Michel capture the essence of biodynamic fruits by delicate extraction (pigeage by hand, no remontage), and cuve-ageing in concrete vats – no oak whatsoever, "to avoid any 'maquillage', enhance purity, and preserve our forests!". From 2020 the couple has decided to make only one red cuvée (Petit Champ and Grand Vin cuvées are no more) since the different vineyards are now of age. The fruit is ripe, natural, with dark cherry, fruits of the forest, hints of spice, and dark chocolate. It has a lovely play on the palate with great freshness and very finely tuned, ripe tannins. A brilliant wine of astonishing value.
BORDEAUX 2018
Grand Vin
60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot
60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot (14.5% alc.)
Champ Des Treilles’ top wine comes from 60yo vines and has been aged for 16 months in 1yo barrels from Pontet-Canet before bottling without fining or filtration. Very luscious, ripe black fruits here with a touch of liquorice and vanilla, and fine, well-integrated tannins. For drinking now to 2028.
Les Trois Petiotes Wines
CÔTES-DE-BOURG 2015
50% Merlot, 35% Malbec, 15% Cabernet Franc
50% Merlot, 35% Malbec, 15% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
A very unique blend in Bordeaux at present (with so much malbec), this is a beautiful, hand-crafted wine made biodynamically from just 3ha of vines. Aged in 1-3yo barrels it has been very sensitively and gently extracted, giving on the nose a wine with blackcurrants, violet, menthol and cooked prunes. It is ripe but supple and very silky on the palate, with perfect acidity and long finish with a lot of freshness. Valérie uses minute levels of sulphur (13mg/l) and this helps to give the wine a very vibrant and digeste quality.
Chȃteau Lamarche-Canon Wines
CANON-FRONSAC 2019
70% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec
70% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec (14.5% alc.)
4ha of 45yo vines worked biodynamically give this exceptional and very good value wine. Aged for one year in larger foudres as well as barrels, followed by a year in cement, this patient approach gives a pure fruited harmonious wine, that is already starting to show very well with good depth to its black cherry fruit with a hint of almond (like a clafoutis), finegrained tannins and an attractive salinity on the finish. Low sulphur. For drinking now to 2030.
Château La Grave Figeac Wines
SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU 2019
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc (13% alc.)
Surrounded by the châteaux of Cheval Blanc, Figeac and La Conseillante in Pomerol, this 6.5ha estate on sandy, gravelly soil is a jewel, and well up to most Cru Classé estates in quality. One hectare of the cabernet franc vines is 100yo which definitely plays its part, as does the biodynamic viticulture. Sensitively aged in one third each of new oak, one year old barrels and cuve, yields around 35hh are very low for the appellation. This 2018 shows well now although it will age perfectly; it is very harmonious, feeling composed and classy with a touch of menthol and spiced plum fruit, an old vine feel to the deep structure. Total SO2 35mg/l. For drinking now to 2035+.
SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU 2015
L’Essai
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc (13% alc.)
Laurent’s first ever wine made without sulphur – rugby fans will love the label designed by a well-known cartoonist working for the satirical newspaper le Canard Enchaîné. There is more merlot used in this cuvée which comes from sandier parcels than the main cuvée. Aged in cement cuves for 16 months, it has a crystalline purity to the fruit, with plums and red berries and a floral hint, with silky tannins and salty mineral quality on the finish. Laurent advises that it is best decanted for a couple of hours. For drinking now to 2023.
CHÂTEAU PAVILLON FIGEAC Wines
SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU 2014
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc (13% alc.)
Pavillon Figeac is the 'second vin' from Château La Grave Figeac, a selection of lighter wines that will develop beautifully but faster compared to the 'grand vin'. The ageing is mainly done in concrete vats with some older 225ltr barrels as well. Amazing value for money, it's light and approachable but still with depth and complexity – as you'd expect from such a classical vintage. Simply put, this is the perfect luncheon claret!
Château Moulin de Lagnet Wines
SAINT-ÉMILION 2021
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon (13% alc.)
Made from young to 35yo vines tended organically in sandy clay soil around the estate in St-Christophe-des-Bardes. The grapes are meticulously sorted so that only healthy grapes go into the vat, helping to reduce the required level of sulphur. Cuve aged in stainless steel, it is medium-bodied, with classic hints of eucalyptus and mint on the nose and intense red fruit and saline flavours.
Château Thibeaud-Maillet Wines
POMEROL 2019
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc (13.5% alc.)
A tiny 1.7 ha estate, the 30-50yo vines are planted in a sandy, gravelly alluvial soil, which overlies clay. The wines from this estate have a subtle, teasing, complex fruit with a silky delivery on the palate. For drinking now to 2030+.
Château Beynat Wines
CASTILLON-CÔTES-DE-BORDEAUX 2021
70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc
70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc (13% alc.)
This wine comes from 25yo vines in the west of the appellation on the south facing limestone-clay hillsides of St-Magne-de-Castillon. Organically certified and vinified with indigenous yeasts, it has been aged in cement for 15 months and has a clear, attractive not over extracted mid-red colour. The nose is clearly printed by saline notes from limestone, and the palate offers a delicious raspberry fruit, with a little spice and hint of cinnamon.
Château Cru Godard Wines
FRANCS-CÔTES-DE-BORDEAUX 2021
65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec
65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec (13.5% alc.)
This wine comes from low yielding, organically tended vines on a south facing limestone hillside, and we love the fact that the independently minded owner Franck Richard does everything according to his own feel and doesn’t lean on an oenologist. Aged half in cuve and half in 3-5yo barrels it has ripe fruit (low sulphur), nicely cosseted by a refreshing saline quality emanating from limestone.
Domaine de Perreau Wines
MONTRAVEL SEC 2022
60% Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, 40% Sémillon
60% Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris, 40% Sémillon (12.5% alc.)
Montravel is a tiny area in the hills north of the Dordogne providing Bergerac’s finest whites. An interesting blend – sauvignon provides a tangy fruit, but the addition of sémillon gives an extra structure with a dash of honey on the palate. Excellent value for money.
Le Jonc Blanc Wines
FRUIT 2019
Vin de France
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Malbec
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Malbec (14% alc.)
Franck Pascal pulled out of the Bergerac appellation in 2012 as his rich, natural, unfined and unfiltered wine had little in common with most of the wines from this appellation. His wine spends two winters in the cellars for natural stabilization before bottling. Black and red fruit gradually emerge on the nose, with deep structured fruit on the palate that is held firm by the wine’s chalky minerality backed by delicate tannins. No added sulphur.
ANTI-GEL 2016
Vin de France
60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc
60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc (12.5% alc.)
After the catastrophic late frosts of 27th April 2017 destroyed 100% of his potential production of red wine, Franck was quick off the mark to buy this organically certified red wine from the limestone hillsides of Saussignac to help his business survive. It has a similar feel to the wine above, although is lighter on its feet and not quite so structured. It has attractive plum fruit cosseted by the impact of limestone and is unfiltered with just a low dose of sulphur at bottling.
Domaine de La Bérangeraie Wines
CAHORS 2018
Cuvée Juline
90% Malbec, 10% Merlot
90% Malbec, 10% Merlot (13.5% alc.)
The soil here, siderolithique (limestone, clay and sandstone with a high iron content) is specific only to Cahors. An elegant approachable wine, it has a deep raspberry colour, a mix of blueberry, cassis, liquorice and menthol hints on the nose and palate, nice weight and fine silky tannins on the finish.
CAHORS 2020
Cuvée Maurin
100% Malbec
100% Malbec (14% alc.)
The vines for Maurin are again planted in siderolithique soil (limestone, clay and sandstone with a high iron content). Exceptional wine made from 100% pure malbec, this has a much deeper, almost black cherry colour. Given a longer cuvaison than the cuvée Juline, it has more structure and a different aromatic profile – slightly tobaccoey, with fruit more redolent of figs/prunes and a touch of menthol and spice on the finish.
CAHORS 2018
Les Quatre Chambrées
100% Malbec
100% Malbec (14% alc.)
This is Bérangeraie’s top unoaked wine and comes from a due south-facing hillside where the soil is a deeply weathered limestone imbued with iron deposits (siderolithic soil). Yields are usually 15% lower than the Maurin cuvée and the temperature of fermentation is never allowed to exceed a low 25°C (above which point harsher more unstable elements are extracted). It has bigger, riper fruit again than the Maurin, with notable menthol, liquorice, limestone and iron notes and tremendous depth.
CAHORS 2019
La Nuit des Rossignols
100% Malbec
100% Malbec (13.5% alc.)
This comes from a cooler north-facing Kimmeridgian limestone hillside and was aged for 12 months in 1yo barrels. It has a bright blackcurrant colour, has happily integrated the oak, and has dark, fresh prune and fig flavours, balanced by perfect acidity. For drinking now to 2030+.
CAHORS 2015
La Gorgée de Mathis Bacchus
100% Malbec
100% Malbec (14% alc.)
Bérangeraie’s top cuvée, Mathis Bacchus comes from 35yo vines planted in Jurassic limestones and marls on the hillsides of Floressas. Vinified in cuve, it was then transferred to new oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and bottled after fining but no filtration after a three years élevage. The oak is very well integrated, and the wine shows intriguing malbec character of mocha, eucalyptus, bay leaves and cloves. For drinking now to 2030+.
Parlange & Illouz Wines
CAJOLLE 2022
Vin de France
100% Jurançon Noir
100% Jurançon Noir (13% alc.)
Jurançon noir is native to the area and is a natural cross between folle blanche and côt (malbec). It makes for light wines, low in alcohol and colour, and was historically the favourite variety for everyday drinking. Jérémie vinifies the 'gamay of Cahors' by semi-carbonic with five days of maceration, ages in stainless steel and bottles in the spring without SO2. Thirst-quencher par excellence, this is lifted with a lovely spicy fruit, pure joy that surely will inspire more plantings!
PRINZET 2017
Vin de France
50% Malbec, 25% Valdiguié, 25% Jurançon Noir
50% Malbec, 25% Valdiguié, 25% Jurançon Noir (12.5% alc.)
Jurançon noir (see description Cajolle) and Valdiguié (related to malbec) come from a 0.8ha plot on iron-rich siderolithic. The 70yo vines are affected by court-noué (fanleaf degeneration) however this yields qualitative low alcohol, high-acid grapes at 15hh only. The malbec comes from a different parcel planted on limestone. The three varieties co-ferment with their stems for 10 days before pressing, age in 5-10yo barriques bordelaises for 12 months followed by six months in cuve, no SO2 added at bottling. Bright cherry colour in the glass, lovely scents of black fruits and fresh peppercorn, a harmonious mouthfeel perfectly pitched and close to the grapes, this is a characterful wine with refreshing tannins and a moreish finish. For drinking now to 2023.
LA PIÈCE 2020
Vin de France
85% Malbec, 15% Merlot
85% Malbec, 15% Merlot (13% alc.)
Different plots of malbec and one of merlot, all on late Jurassic limestone soils. Whole-bunch fermentation with light extraction during eight days of cuvaison, 12 months ageing half in tank and half in old 225ltr barrels, 1g/hl SO2 'à la mise' (less than 30mg/l total). Juicy, dense and refreshing this is a proof that Cahors can be approachable young. Extremely drinkable despite its concentrated fruit, it has lovely flavours of wild blackberry, liquorice and viola flower. Combining pleasure and sense of place, this bottling showcases Jérémie’s savoir-faire and fine touch.
HAUTE PIÈCE 2019
Vin de France
100% Malbec
100% Malbec (13% alc.)
This cuvée comes from the oldest vines of malbec at the domaine (50yo+) – two distinct parcels on siderolithic soil. This acidic and manganese-rich terroir comes from the erosion of the nearby Massif Central. Extremely high quality it adds umami, salinity and verticality to the wines and brings an enticing savoury element. Whole-cluster fermentation of 12 days before pressing, 12-months élevage in 225ltr barrels bought from Guillaume Thienpont at Vieux Château Certan followed by another six months in stainless steel. No SO2 added. Intense, powerful as well as refined and nuanced this wine has an expansive mouthfeel - textural and structured with loads of polished tannins. Complex aromatics of dark cocoa, freshly ground coffee, juicy Mediterranean tomatoes, peonies and marshmallows are enhanced by a lengthy, irony and almost meaty finish triggering endless salivation. A stunning effort. For drinking now to 2030.
Domaine des Buis Wines
ENTRAYGUES & LE FEL 2023
Les Brumes
100% Chenin Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc (12.5% alc.)
Chenin Blanc is perfectly suited to the area with its cool climate, granitic soil and proximity to rivers. It has been found in northern Aveyron for several centuries, it was brought by the monks via the 'camino de Santiago' and after centuries of adaptation/mutation, local strains have emerged with their own characteristics. They’re often co-planted with clonal or massal selections emanating from the Loire. Pauline comments that having vineyards planted to chenin was a big draw for her when taking over the farm. The 1.2ha of 40yo vines are planted at the bottom of the slope (lieu-dit Les Buis) on deep granitic sand, right next to the river Lot, benefiting from this particular micro-climate with its misty environment – 'les brumes' translates as mist. Whole bunches are slowly pressed, fermentation occurs without SO2 added, the wine ages in vats on fine lies during winter, it is racked when spring comes and usually bottled around June. Always a textural wine that opens up beautifully in the glass or after a couple of years in bottle, it has a fleshy and moreish fruit with refreshing bitters and a granite-induced salty finish. There’s so much character and identity in this wine – it is the perfect blind taste for any chenin-lover out there!
ENTRAYGUES & LE FEL 2022
Chauffe Marcel
Fer Servadou, Gamay, Jurançon Noir, Cabernet Franc, Négret de Banhars, Mouyssaguès, Négrette
Fer Servadou, Gamay, Jurançon Noir, Cabernet Franc, Négret de Banhars, Mouyssaguès, Négrette (13% alc.)
This wine comes from the oldest vines at the domaine (averaging 50yo, oldest 70yo) – a parcel co-planted with obscure varieties including the hyperlocal négret de banhars (Banhars is a village 5km away) and the extremely rare mouyssaguès (1ha left in the whole of France!). Working with indigenous varieties is important for Pauline, "as it is crucial for preserving the biodiversity and history of the region". This field-blend 'à l’ancienne' is harvested at once, with each grape at different stages of maturity (from underripe to overripe via perfectly ripe). It is vinified like a white to capture the essence of the terroir focusing on mouthfeel and mineral print – whole bunches are directly pressed, fermentation, ageing and bottling as per the cuvée Les Brumes. A beautiful rose colour with brilliance and bright orange hue, this is multi-layered and dynamic with an enticing savouriness. Of note, Chauffe Marcel is the title of a famous song from legendary artist Jacques Brel.
ENTRAYGUES & LE FEL 2022
Marin D'Eau Douce
60% Fer Servadou, 40% Cabernet Franc
60% Fer Servadou, 40% Cabernet Franc (12% alc.)
Fer servadou is the emblematic variety from Aveyron, also known as mansois locally and braucol in Gaillac, it originates from the Basque Country similar to cabernet franc – both grapes are part of the Carmenet ampelographic group (cf. Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson), they were then propagated through SW France (and further afield in the case of cab franc) by the pilgrims and monks on their way to and from Santiago de Compostela via the notorious 'camino'. This wine beautifully combines juiciness and rusticity – two traits of the fer servadou – medium bodied with refreshing tannins, it has complex ripe bramble fruits aromatics with a spicy and savoury (almost bloody) twist to it. The 25-40yo vines are located higher on the coteau (lieu-dit Les Buis) at 300m altitude, they’re therefore planted on shallow topsoil, closer to the granite bedrock conveying extra savouriness into the final wine. Pauline tames the 'wild side' of both varieties via whole bunches semi-carbonic maceration, the cuvaison lasts for 10-15 days before ageing in older barrels and demi-muids for six months, the wine gets racked and aged for a few more months in vat before bottling in June.
Labranche-Laffont Wines
MADIRAN 2019
70% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc
70% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc (14% alc.)
Two thirds of Christine Dupuy’s 45yo vineyards produce this cuve-aged wine whose dense ripe black fruit puts us in mind of good northern Spanish reds. Low yields, optimum maturity for grape picking, a gentle touch when it comes to extraction, low sulphur after malos (35mg/l total), and a three years élevage help to give the wine notable freshness and balance.
MADIRAN 2020
Vieilles Vignes
100% Tannat
100% Tannat (14.5% alc.)
Old vines here are an average age of 50yo (with one small parcel of pre-phylloxera vines over 140yo). The vines are pruned hard to ensure a low yield. Light pigeage is applied during the fermentation in cement cuve before one year in oak barrels (25% new). The wine has a deep blackcurrant colour, offers ripe cassis and liquorice on the nose, intense fruit with a hint of spice on the palate, and a long, sustained finish. For drinking now to 2030+.
UGO Wines
SUR LE FIL 2016
Vin de France
70% Petit Manseng, 30% Gros Manseng
70% Petit Manseng, 30% Gros Manseng (14.5% alc.)
Petit and gros manseng are harvested from the end of October to early November. The resulting grapes, passerillés by the foehn winds, are vinified bone-dry thanks to Pierre’s unique technique (see profile). This wine was aged in old 400ltr oak barrels for two years and bottled without any sulphur. Made from juice that usually produces ‘moelleux’, it has a similar complex and expressive nose of candied quince, ripe apricot and tropical fruits with cinnamon and dried vanilla pod. The powerful and multi-layered mouthfeel is perfectly balanced by salivating bitters, zesty acids and a lengthy minerality. Sur Le Fil is a sommelier’s favorite thanks to its versatility with food, from spiced seafood to game birds, it is also a stunner with grilled foie gras! For drinking now to 2028.
SANS VOILE 2015
Vin de France
70% Petit Manseng, 30% Gros Manseng
70% Petit Manseng, 30% Gros Manseng (14.5% alc.)
As with Sur Le Fil, the grapes are harvested passerillées and directly pressed (over five hours) into concrete tanks, the juice is then transferred to barrels by gravity for a ‘turbocharged’ fermentation (see profile). The twist for this cuvée occurs during élevage. Following a year in 400ltr barrels the wine moves into an open stainless steel vat for oxidative ageing without any flor (sans voile). Françoise and Pierre regularly taste, when they find too much oxidation (usually after three to five weeks) the cuve is sealed off with a floating cap. They noticed that suddenly going towards reduction allows the wine to naturally re-adjust and find the perfect balance between fruit and (controlled) oxidation. Alive and constantly evolving in one’s glass this is a mesmerizing wine, ripe fruits and sweet spices are in perfect harmony with rancio-like flavours and complex nutty aromas, a hint towards the finest palo cortados. This is a stunning effort, a wine which makes the drinker think and reflect. It also allows for countless food matchings, holding particularly well against spicy dishes. For drinking now to 2030.
DOMAINE GUIRARDEL Wines
JURANÇON 2012
Marrote
100% Petit Manseng
100% Petit Manseng (14% alc, 60g/l of rs)
Marrote is a single plot of 1.2 ha of petit manseng deeply rooted into the vein of poudingues (puddingstone) that goes through the estate. Charged with minerals this is an extremely qualitative soil/terroir carried here by an ancient glacier – rocks, pebbles and sand were rolled and compacted over huge distances. Intensity and salinity characterized the grapes harvested on 30th October at a yield of 17hh. A more classical vinification here with fermentation and ageing in 400ltr barriques for 10 months, followed by stainless steel till bottling in May 2014. The total sulphur has completely combined thanks to the many years of bottle ageing. This is a ‘grand vin de terroir’ which integrates salt, bitters, sugar and umami perfectly: a dynamic mouth with nuanced, complex and lifted flavours; all sustained by a combination of acidity, minerality and saltiness; moreish salivation and lengthy finish almost recreate the wine once sipped – all the fame and history of Jurançon encapsulated in a bottle! 2300 bottles produced. For drinking now to 2040.
Domaine Montesquiou Wines
JURANÇON SEC 2022
Cuvade Preciouse
60% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng, 10% Petit Courbu
60% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng, 10% Petit Courbu (14% alc.)
This is Montesquiou’s top cuvée from very low yielding 40yo vines. Sensitively aged in new to 5yo barrels, the wine’s intense, exotic fruit is nicely tethered by a characteristic, refreshing acidity.
Clos Thou Wines
JURANÇON 2021
100% Petit Manseng
100% Petit Manseng (13% alc, 70g/l of rs)
This is Clos Thou’s top wine and only 1,500 bottles of this exceptional sweet wine are made every year. Produced from minute yields of late-picked grapes that are left to shrivel on the vine (passerillage) until early December, when the snows are falling in the nearby Pyrénées. It is an intense, exotically fruited white with a cut of acidity so often lacking in other sweet wines.
Domaine Rotier Wines
GAILLAC VENDANGES TARDIVES 2017
Renaissance
100% Loin de l’oeil
100% Loin de l’oeil (12% alc, 155g/l of rs)
This wine is made from tiny yields of grapes concentrated by pourriture noble. It is a rich complex wine with pears and apples coming through very clearly on both the nose and palate. This wine would be the perfect match for foie gras or go equally well with chocolate-based desserts or blue cheese.
Bodegas Albamar Wines
RÍAS BAIXAS 2023
100% Albariño
100% Albariño (12.5% alc.)
This is made by Xurxo Alba, one of the most talented young winemakers in the region, well respected by fellow leading winemakers, who positively fizzes with energy and ideas. The vines come from many different plots, planted in sandy, granitic soils close to the Atlantic (in places 25m away) and his main production is of this delicious wine, one of the very few albariño in the region to be made via natural, indigenous yeasts. 95% cuve aged, and pressed from whole clusters, Xurxo didn’t let the wine go through malolactic to preserve acidity. He’s always looking for transparency, acidity and freshness, and this wine mixes a delicious mineral vibration with a dense core of fruit with a marked salinity on the finish.
RÍAS BAIXAS 2020
Sesenta e Nove Arrobas
100% Albariño
100% Albariño (13% alc.)
Xurxo produces around 1,000ltr of this brilliant wine (equivalent to 69 arrobas, an old unit of measure), Luis Gutierrez’s regular top-rated Rías Baixas albariño. Made from five parcels of vines from 50yo to over 100yo, this is the one and only white wine that's aged for almost two years on fine lees (stainless steel only) and bottled with no filtration. Subtle and rather discrete on the nose, it explodes into action on the palate, intensity and drive, with stewed lemons and apricots, mango, passion fruit, a saline and iodine mineral core, all beautifully relieved by acidity. It’s worth adding that carafeing this wine works very well. For drinking now to 2030+.
RÍAS BAIXAS 2021
Alma de Mar
100% Albariño
100% Albariño (13% alc.)
One of Xurxo’s top single-vineyard bottlings, this comes from 40yo vines planted right next to the ocean in a sandy clay weathered out from granite. Aged on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks with regular batonnages, malos completed and lower sulphur levels, this is an exceptional wine. Beautifully balanced, the nose is very perfumed, the flavours are deep and resonant, and the texture shows the impact of lees stirring. Quite austere at the outset with a print of granitic mineral flavour, this wine will age well – Xurxo enjoys it after four years in bottle. For drinking now to 2030.
RÍAS BAIXAS 2021
Pepe Luis
100% Albariño
100% Albariño (13% alc.)
This bottling and label is a tribute to Xurxo's elder brother who sadly passed away. Five parcels of 40yo vines close to the Atlantic on sandy granitic soil. Direct press, fermentation and ageing in foudres on fine lees for a year. The élevage in Stockinger and old German (Mosel) foudres is well-judged, the wine is textural while retaining all its Atlantic character. Sapid and mineral, this is terroir-driven Rías Baixas at its best. A limited and sought-after production that will age well. For drinking now to 2028.
RÍAS BAIXAS 2022
O Esteiro
34% Caiño, 33% Espadeiro, 33% Mencía
34% Caiño, 33% Espadeiro, 33% Mencía (11% alc.)
Sourced from a multitude of miniscule plots of old vines (totalling about 0.5ha) on the typically sandy, granitic soils of the region, the whole bunches of grapes here were foot trodden in an open vat before transfer to old 228ltr barrels for a year and bottling unfined and unfiltered. All three of Xurxo’s reds are made the same way, they have low alcohol levels and pale red colours more akin to Jura reds but will startle with the energetic freshness and purity of their fruit. Here for example you’ll find a wine with a shade more colour than the caiño below, with a slightly riper mouthfeel, darker fruits and an irony quality from the mencía, a touch of balsamic and spice plus herbal twist on the mineral finish. Like poulsard, Galician reds are incredibly versatile food-wise.
RÍAS BAIXAS 2022
Capitan Xurelo
34% Caiño, 33% Espadeiro, 33% Mencía
34% Caiño, 33% Espadeiro, 33% Mencía (11% alc.)
Xurxo pulls together this wine from the barrels that have the most attractive, forward fruit otherwise destined for the more structured O Esteiro bottling. Xurxo (or Xurelo) is known as 'El Capitan' all over Spain, a nickname given by his mates and symbolising Xurxo's energy and enthusiasm. It used to only be sold to friends and local restaurants but we persuaded him to make an exception for us. Supple and easy to drink with a spicy and tangy fruit, pure pleasure!
RÍAS BAIXAS 2016
O Esteiro Caiño
100% Caiño
100% Caiño (11.5% alc.)
There are less than 1% of red grape vineyards in Rías Baixas and just two barrels were made from very old vines (even Xurxo’s grandmother could not recall their age!) of caiño da terra, longo and redondo. A light raspberry juice in colour, it shows sour cherries on the nose, following through on the palate with redcurrants, cranberries and black pepper. A subtle wine with low alcohol and silky fine tannins on the mineral infused finish. You won’t find many reds around the world that go better with shellfish (e.g. fresh crab) and fish with stronger flavoured veg or sauces.
RÍAS BAIXAS 2016
O Esteiro Espadeiro
100% Espadeiro
100% Espadeiro (11.5% alc.)
And finally, we arrive with the rarest of all red grapes planted in Galicia (apparently also known as Camaraou Noir in Jurançon and Béarn where it has almost disappeared), and Xurxo has produced just one barrel of 300bts from ancient vines. This wine has an exquisite delicate red colour, red berry perfume that puts you more in mind of pinot noir, and is juicy, fresh and vivid with balsamic notes, an attractive spice and grainy edge.
Emilio Rojo Wines
RIBEIRO 2016
70% Treixadura, 10% Loureiro, 10% Albariño, 5% Godello, 5% Lado
70% Treixadura, 10% Loureiro, 10% Albariño, 5% Godello, 5% Lado (13% alc.)
Emilio planted his 1.2ha of 30yo vines on a steep, east facing terraced hillside (supported by walls) at 300m altitude, in an isolated spot surrounded by oak and chestnut trees above an ancient rural settlement abandoned 40 years ago. Here the soil is a sandy, decomposed granite called sábrego from which Emilio fashions just 5,000bts of one wine (at 30hh), which has become one of Spain’s most soughtafter whites. Aged in cuve on the fine lees for 18 months before bottling by hand with no filtration, this is a profound wine, tightly wound with an electric freshness, that is much more about a mineral character than fruit, with a hint of herb and balsamic note, and marked salinity. It ideally needs a few years in bottle or opening well in advance and given plenty of air, and even then, constantly changes and amazes in the glass. VLQ. For drinking now to 2026.
Augalevada Wines
OLLOS BLANCO 2022
Treixadura, Albariño, Palomino, Godello, Caíño Branco, Torrontés, Lado
Treixadura, Albariño, Palomino, Godello, Caíño Branco, Torrontés, Lado (12.5% alc.)
The wines labelled Ollos (previously named Mercenario) are made from grapes bought from like-minded growers practising 'clean' farming. Vineyards are on decomposed granite soils throughout the Ribeiro DO on the banks of the Miño, Avia and Arnoia rivers. The different varieties are directly pressed, native yeasts trigger fermentation in stainless steel before transfer into barrels and tinajas (see profile). Texture and sapidity characterise this Mercenario, its well-integrated VA and savouriness make a convincing case for umami in wine.
MERCENARIO BLANCO 2020
Parcela O Balado
80% Doña Branca, 20% Palomino, Treixadura, Godello, Torrontés
80% Doña Branca, 20% Palomino, Treixadura, Godello, Torrontés (12% alc.)
One of Iago’s Mercenario wines, Parcela O Balado is a 80yo single vineyard in the Monterrei DO – a sandy south-facing plot overlooking the Alberellos river – the grapes come from the kind and generous José Luis Mateo of Quinta da Muradella. Fermentation in stainless steel and 10 months ageing in old chestnut barrels. This wine is built around texture with doña branca bringing its typical moreish richness and bitters.
CRIANZA BIOLÓXICA 2021
100% Albariño
100% Albariño (12% alc.)
This year the 'crianza biolóxica' (ageing under flor) comes from Parcela Eiravedra, a single vineyard in Rías Baixas (Val do Salnés) – Iago gets the grapes thanks to his well-connected friend Xurxo Alba (Albamar). Fermentation in stainless steel, transfer into 500ltr and 600ltr barrels in which Iago adds 5% of wine from 'la madre' – a buried tinaja under a thick layer of flor started off in 2011. A 12 month ageing under flor follows. This is an amazing bottling worth serving blind among Jura wines 'elevés sous voile' and other Vin Jaunes...
OLLOS DE ROQUE 2021
60% Treixadura, 20% Lado, 20% Agudelo
60% Treixadura, 20% Lado, 20% Agudelo (12.5% alc.)
Ollos de Roque translates as Roque's eyes in Gallego – Roque being Iago's son. This is the jewel in the crown made from Augalevada's own grapes as opposed to the Mercenario wines. Iago planted the vines in 2009 and decided to re-graft some of them (see profile) with lado as well as the promising agudelo – a chenin cultivar brought by the monks via the Camino de Santiago centuries ago. The wines were aged under a thin layer of flor in a mix of 500ltr, 600ltr barrels and buried tinajas. Blended in June and bottled in August the following year, the finished wine was then bottle-aged for another year before release. SO2 was only added at bottling to reach a low 25mg/l total. Crystalline and lifted, with flavours of pink grapefruit, tarragon and roses, this is lush and round while packed with salivating razor-like acids. Saltiness and fine bitters extend a lengthy and energetic finish – a stunning wine that showcases all of Iago's talent! For drinking now to 2028.
MERCENARIO TINTO 2021
Caiño Longo, Caiño da Terra, Brancellao, Espadeiro, Sousón
Caiño Longo, Caiño da Terra, Brancellao, Espadeiro, Sousón (12% alc.)
From 15-30yo vineyards throughout the Ribeiro DO (see Mercenario Blanco) – field-blends with many native grape varieties. Fermentation was carried out in open vats where whole grapes were foot trodden and then 'massaged' by hand for light extraction. 10 months ageing in old demi-muids (2/3) and tinajas (1/3). This nuanced red wine is pure joy, combining aromas of watermelon, menthol, spices and cured meat. Its lifted flavours and high drinkability will please many Jura lovers!
MERCENARIO TINTO 2020
Selección de Añada
34% Caiño Longo, 33% Caiño da Terra, 33% Brancellao
34% Caiño Longo, 33% Caiño da Terra, 33% Brancellao (12% alc.)
As per the classic Mercenario Tinto, the Selección de Añada is made from vineyards on the different river banks throughout the Ribeiro DO – but the vines are older on this occasion (up to 45yo), Iago selects the best plots and harvests them a bit later "to produce deeper and meatier wines", as he explains. He also adds some grapes from Augalevada for good measure. This refined red wine is in the same vein as the classic Mercenario Tinto although complexity, depth and length are significantly stepped up!
Quinta da Muradella Wines
MONTERREI 2019
Candea Blanco
34% Doña Branca, 33% Verdello, 33% Treixadura
34% Doña Branca, 33% Verdello, 33% Treixadura (12% alc.)
José buys grapes from 3ha of 20yo vines (white and red grapes) on clay soils in Tamagos – south of Verín in the Támega valley – where he supervises the work and harvest. The three varieties were co-fermented with indigenous yeasts, and the wine aged on fine lees for a year (no stirring) in stainless steel vats. Fresh and easy-going, it has low alcohol and good acidity – the perfect entry-level wine.
MONTERREI 2019
Alanda Blanco
50% Doña Blanca, 20% Treixadura, 20% Verdello, 10% Monstruosa de Monterrei
50% Doña Blanca, 20% Treixadura, 20% Verdello, 10% Monstruosa de Monterrei (12% alc.)
This comes from all of José’s fincas spread around the hillsides of Verín where the soils are a mix of slate and clay, sandy gravel and decomposing granite. Made from yields around 30hh, cuve aged with malos blocked, and kept on fine lees (no stirring) before bottling in August 2021. Like all of the Muradella whites this is subtle and elegant, quite tightly wound initially with vibrant acidity, displaying a strong mineral character with subtle peach, fennel and eucalyptus notes gradually emerging. For drinking now to 2025.
MONTERREI 2014
Gorvia Blanco
100% Doña Blanca
100% Doña Blanca (13.5% alc.)
Gorvia is the original plot owned by the family (see profile) – 1ha on a slope at 420m altitude down the hilltop castle of Monterrei. The vines were planted (by massal selection) in the late 1980s on slate soils with red clay. Here, José Luis has settled on tiny yields of around 12hh to fully capture the potential of doña blanca that yields textural wines. Ageing for a year in older foudres, and then two years and a half in stainless steel before bottling unfined and unfiltered. It is vibrant, complex, and impeccably balanced with some yellow plum and citrus fruit, salty and savoury, with attractive bitters on a long finish. For drinking now to 2025.
MONTERREI 2015
Muradella Blanco
100% Treixadura
100% Treixadura (13% alc.)
José’s finest white comes from one particular plot in finca Muradella (see profile), where the soils are a mix of slate, granitic sand, and clay with high iron content. Some of the vines were planted in the early 1990s while some others are 60-100yo. Also called the Trajadura grape in Portugal, it has always been renowned for its quality and vigour, but there are no other growers who have explored its quality boundaries by dropping the yields down to a mere 9hh, perhaps helping to explain why Luis Gutierrez believes this wine is at the quality helm of all Galician whites. Aged initially in older foudres for a year then in cuve for over two more years before being bottled unfiltered. This age-worthy wine has exotic spices aromas as well as fennel and hints of hay on the nose, with savoury, intense, high pitched flavours, all the time wrapped up with an austere mineral quality. For drinking now to 2025.
MONTERREI 2016
Treixadura Bajo Velo
100% Treixadura
100% Treixadura (13.5% alc.)
This was aged 'sous voile' or 'bajo velo' translating as 'under veil'. José tamed the flor element of this wine by transferring it from a wooden foudre to a smaller stainless steel vat (after a few months of the veil developing) – less oxygen and space resulted in a finer veil. 2,300 bottles were filled up in March 2018 and then bottle ageing occurred for another 3-4 years before release. The ageing under flor amplified minerality and length on the palate, while the flor aromatic per se is mild and subtle, nicely binding with fruit-forward and spicy flavours. José reckons the effect of the veil will keep on growing with time in bottle (while remaining nuanced), and we do agree – this is a long-lived wine that will age gracefully! For drinking now to 2036.
MONTERREI 2019
Candea Tinto
Mencía, Arauxa, Garnacha Tintorera, Mouratón
Mencía, Arauxa, Garnacha Tintorera, Mouratón (13% alc.)
Unoaked and fruit-driven blend of different varieties including arauxa aka tempranillo – the 20 to 70yo vines are scattered around the village of Tamagos (not far from the Portuguese border) at 370m altitude. It fermented with 1/3 whole clusters in stainless steel, and ageing occurred in the same vat for almost two years. The wine has complexity and lightness, it's delicious and delivers a lot more than the price point suggests.
MONTERREI 2016
Alanda Tinto
Mencía, Bastardo, Garnacha Tintorera, Mouratón, Gran Negro, Arauxa
Mencía, Bastardo, Garnacha Tintorera, Mouratón, Gran Negro, Arauxa (13% alc.)
The red version of Alanda is a blend from the different vineyards, sub-zones, and soil types (many sit on granitic bedrocks) within the Monterrei DO. The different grape varieties (harvested at around 25hh) were fermented together, part in stainless steel, part in cement, with 1/3 of whole clusters and aged for one year in used barrels and cement tanks. It was then assembled and matured for a further year in stainless steel before bottling neither fined nor filtered. The nose is fruit-driven, with cherry, herbs and a pinch of spice, and a medium-bodied palate with focused, red cherry flavours, fine tannins and balanced acidity. For drinking now to 2025.
MONTERREI 2016
Gorvia Tinto
90% Mencía, 5% Bastardo, 5% Caiño Redondo
90% Mencía, 5% Bastardo, 5% Caiño Redondo (13% alc.)
Planted by José's father in the late 1980s, this is Muradella's original plot (see profile) where the tip top massal selection yields around 20-25hh. The 1ha south-facing vineyard sits on iron-rich clay, slate and quartz at the foot of Monterrei hilltop castle. It was fermented in an open stainless steel vat with 60% whole bunches and a long maceration, aged for six months in the same vat and then transferred into older 300 and 500ltr barrels. 3,000 bottles were filled by hand, unfined and unfiltered in May 2018, bottle-ageing followed as per usual at Muradella. On the nose you notice wild strawberries, and floral perfume of violets and dry roses, with sour cherries, spice and an earthy sensation on the palate. This is a superb Galician red with a Burgundian accent and the finesse that is typical of the reds from José Luis Mateo. For drinking now to 2030.
MONTERREI 2018
Castro Baroncelli
100% Mencía
100% Mencía (13% alc.)
Castro Baroncelli is the name of a famous Celtic settlement in the Monterrei hills. This is José's oldest and most qualitative mencía massal selection in the highest part of the Gorvia plot (see Gorvia wines) – where grapes usually ripen earlier. The trellised vines were converted to 'gobelet' (bush vine) to provide less sun exposure to the bunches, and reach better overall balance. Fermentation and 6-month ageing in stainless steel, followed by 12 months in old 500ltr barrel. Only 656 bottles were bottled in January 2020. This shows less ripeness than the Gorvia Tinto – José aims at finesse through gentle extraction to express the complex nuances of mencía growing on decomposed slate. A stunning wine for drinking now to 2025.
MONTERREI 2016
Bastardo
100% Bastardo
100% Bastardo (13% alc.)
Bastardo is also known as merenzao in other parts of Galicia – Portuguese growers tend to prefer the use of bastardo – and trousseau in the Jura. The grapes come from finca Muradella (see profile), on clay and sandstone soils at 470m altitude, where José re-grafted vines using an old massal selection from the mountain plots. The uncrushed whole bunches fermented with indigenous yeasts in open foudres and matured in 400ltr barrels, 2,200 bottles were filled up in August 2018. It's deep and austere, slightly hidden at first, it opens up nicely in a decanter (or big glasses) displaying texture and power, the palate reveals rustic but fine tannins (that will polish with bottle age), gorgeous berries and peppery aromas. For drinking now to 2026.
MONTERREI 2015
El Pliegue
Bastardo, Mencía, Carabuñenta, Brancellao, Caiño Longo
Bastardo, Mencía, Carabuñenta, Brancellao, Caiño Longo (13% alc.)
El pliegue translates as 'the fold', a reference to the wave-like geologic fold that occurred at the top of a hillside in finca Muradella (see profile). This rocky plot is strewn with quartz, granite, and slate decomposing in iron-rich clay – an amazing terroir that José identified in the late 90s, and finally planted in 2001. In his constant search for the ideal combination of ancient varieties, José used this plot as a "campo de probas" – a test field – where he co-planted, and re-grafted some parts over the years, to finally settle (circa 2012) on a field blend of bastardo, brancellao, mencía, carabuñenta (touriga nacional), and caiño longo. All varieties co-fermented with 50% whole clusters, the wine aged in a 24hltr oak foudre, and 2,505 bottles were filled up in May 2018. It has a lovely rusticity due to fine tannins, displaying nuanced earthy and floral notes with a lovely energy and salivation on the finish. El Pliegue combines restrained style with character, this is a unique glimpse in Monterrei's pre-phylloxera past and a testament to José's hard work!
Adega Algueira Wines
RIBEIRA SACRA 2016
Cortezada
40% Godello, 40% Albariño, 20% Treixadura
40% Godello, 40% Albariño, 20% Treixadura (13% alc.)
The impressive Cortezada vineyard was carved into an amazingly steep amphitheatre around 1900. Fernando and his team have rebuilt it to its original shape over 17 years, as it was abandoned and covered by the forest. Located in the Riberas do Sil sub-region, the vineyards walled terraces are two to three meters high and 200m long on gneiss, quartz and slate! Fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in stainless steel to help preserve fruit and minerality, the wine combines power and elegance with ripe yellow peach and apricot aromas.
RIBEIRA SACRA 2015
Pizarra
100% Mencía
100% Mencía (13.5% alc.)
Originally from Castilla y Léon (think Bierzo) the now ubiquitous mencía has adapted extremely well to Ribeira Sacra, especially on the hot southern exposed slopes of the prestigious Amandi cru. Named after the slate (pizarra) soils of the Carballocovo vineyard, the grapes were (like most of their reds) foot trodden with full clusters in wooden open vats, fermented with natural yeasts and aged for just over a year in oak barrels of different sizes and ages. This wine has depth and an almost chewy texture with complex flavours of cured meat, black cherries and Mediterranean herbs. For drinking now to 2025+.
RIBEIRA SACRA 2016
Risco
100% Merenzao
100% Merenzao (14% alc.)
Also called maria ordoña in Galicia, bastardo in Portugal and trousseau in Jura, the merenzao grape was a regular on the Camino de Santiago tagging along the monks. Foot-trodden with full clusters in open wooden vats, fermented with natural yeasts and aged for just over a year in oak barrels of different sizes and ages. Pale in colour and translucent despite a warm vintage, balsamic and earthy on the nose, round texture with ripe red berries and morello cherries, smoke and dried roses. Oak tannins are still present but will rapidly integrate. A regular star on the Algueira portfolio. For drinking now to 2030.
RIBEIRA SACRA 2015
Serradelo
100% Brancellao
100% Brancellao (12.5% alc.)
A true native Galician variety, the brancellao grape has been nicknamed ‘the pinot noir of Galicia’ by the new wave of local winemakers (e.g. Envínate). Foot-trodden with full clusters in an open wooden vat, fermented with natural yeasts and aged in old oak only (5yo minimum) to preserve the grape’s subtleties and vivacity. Also pale in colour, this is a lifted and leaner style of Ribeira Sacra with a vertical acidity and minerality given from the slate and schist soils. The bouquet has clarity with refreshing aromas of cranberry leaf, blood orange and black pepper, with cherries and tar on the palate. Brancellao is naturally back in favour and has a lot to say. For drinking now to 2025.
Veronica Ortega Wines
BIERZO 2020
Cal
100% Godello
100% Godello (12.5% alc.)
Cal comes from 50yo vines giving tiny grapes planted in limestone (a very rare soil in Bierzo where slate and clay are more usual) above an old quarry near the town of San Juan de la Mata. Macerated on the skins overnight, it is aged for 14 months – 50% in 800ltr amphoras and 50% in 228ltr and 600ltr barrels. Due to the type of soil the pH of the wine is extremely low (between 2.7 and 3.1) and the acidity is so high that it naturally does not go through malolactic (sometimes partially as per 2020). It makes for an intensely mineral wine, with a zesty fruit, giving notes of green tea, almonds and chamomile. A fresh vertical mouthfeel and marked salinity enhances its electric energy. Sadly this bottling was discontinued following the 2020 vintage – Raúl Perez took over the lease of that particular plot rather unexpectedly.
BIERZO 2021
La Llorona
100% Godello
100% Godello (12.5% alc.)
2019 was the first vintage of La Llorona. 35yo vines on sandy clay soil located in the town of Pieros at 500m altitude. The grapes were destemmed and macerated overnight, spontaneous fermentation and ageing for 15 months in 600, 500 and 225ltr as well as stainless steel (15% of the final blend). Total SO2 30mg/l. The sandy soil and cool temperatures at high altitude bring a crystalline quality to the wine. It's vibrant with subtle notes of chamomile, fennel and citrus. This bottling is a tribute to the amazing Mexican singer Chavela Vargas and her interpretation of the legend La Llorona.
BIERZO 2021
Quite
100% Mencía
100% Mencía (13% alc.)
Veronica is based in Valtuille de Abajo, and this wine comes from various parcels of organically tended vines around the village. Averaging 80yo the vines are planted in the typical sandy, iron-rich clay soils yielding around 25hh. Given a 15-day cuvaison and aged for seven to nine months, half in 800ltr amphoras and half in 2-3yo barrels, total SO2 40mg/l. This wine has an excellent texture, most attractive mulberry and brambly fruit and floral hints with some liquorice and herbal notes – so delicious and easy to drink. Veronica’s father was a bullfighter and 'dar un quite' is originally a bullfighting term, now commonly used and meaning 'to offer a helping hand'.
BIERZO 2020
ROC
90% Mencía, 10% Palomino, Doña Blanca
90% Mencía, 10% Palomino, Doña Blanca (13.5% alc.)
Veronica’s finest and longest-lived wine is named with the initials of her oldest brother who sadly passed away. It comes from two small parcels (La Rata and El Couso) averaging 100yo and planted in the sandy red clay of Valtuille de Abajo. Here the sands give more aromatic finesse and precision to the fruit, complementing the muscular texture and structure conferred by the clay. Made from 100% whole bunches and gently extracted over 20 days, it was aged in 2-3yo barrels for 14 months. There’s a darker fruited character to this wine (compared to the other bottlings) with brambly fruit and violets on the nose as well as hints of liquorice and incense, all of which you’ll taste on the palate with an herbal note too. Full-bodied it is still a subtle, deep, complex wine with fine tannic structure and very good balance that’s built to last. 40mg/l total SO2. For drinking now to 2030.
BIERZO 2022
Cobrana
75% Mencía, 25% Doña Blanca, Palomino, Godello, etc
75% Mencía, 25% Doña Blanca, Palomino, Godello, etc (13% alc.)
This is made from 8 different plots of 90-100yo bush vines in the village of Cobrana (district Villa de Congosto) – one of the highest altitude, coolest vineyards of the Bierzo Alto (750m), in the north-east of the DO. The soils are a decomposing slate with red clay. Here it was traditional to co-plant different red and white varieties. Made from 100% whole bunches, the different grapes co-fermented in open tronconic wooden vats with minimal extraction (as per the local tradition), and the wine aged in a mix of amphoras and older barrels for 13 months. This has a delicate colour, a very floral nose with dried rose notes, attractive ripe strawberry and raspberry fruit on the palate, with balsamic and menthol in the background, and a fine grained tannin nicely integrated. Total SO2 27mg/l. Best served around 14 to 16C.
BIERZO 2022
Kinki
60% Mencía, 10% Alicante Bouschet, 30% Palomino, Godello
60% Mencía, 10% Alicante Bouschet, 30% Palomino, Godello (12% alc.)
The grapes for Kinki also come from the village of Cobrana, one of the last area to ripen in the Bierzo DO (10-15 days after vineyards on the valley floor). Veronica selected younger vines with higher yields, compared to the Cobrana bottling, and the alicante bouschet is harvested early to preserve acidity – vinification as per Cobrana with an even lighter extraction and shorter élevage of nine months. Veronica makes a point to create a light-bodied red wine full of crunchy fruit – respecting local winemaking tradition (see Cobrana) while crafting a fun and smashable wine. The aromatics are packed with red currants, sour raspberry as well as balsamic and black pepper notes reminiscent of a top Loire Valley pineau d'aunis!
Goyo Garcia Viadero Wines
RIBERA DEL DUERO 2020
Finca Los Quemados
100% Tinto Fino
100% Tinto Fino (14% alc.)
As per all of Goyo’s Ribera del Duero wines, fermentation took place in open foudres and ageing occurred in top quality used French oak (minimum 8yo) selected with care from his family winery Bodegas Valduero. Finca Los Quemados comes from 100yo vines just under 900m altitude on a deep and light soil of ferrous sand and pebbles; it spent one year in barriques before six months bottle ageing. High pitched with an incredible freshness thanks to the high altitude vines this wine has attractive aromas of viola and graphite with a juicy and meaty texture.
RIBERA DEL DUERO 2018
Finca El Peruco
85% Tinto Fino 15% Albillo
85% Tinto Fino 15% Albillo (13.5% alc.)
The 1.5ha 100yo vineyard El Peruco is located in Anguix north of Roa. At more than 900m elevation this is one of the highest points in the Ribera and has white sandy soils with limestone, clay and rolling stones. It was aged for almost two years in barrels followed by some bottle ageing. It is slightly reduced, with some notes of barbecued meat quickly opening up onto milky chocolate, clove and blueberries. It is a vertical wine packed with refreshing acids, and with an irony finish. El Peruco is always more ethereal and lifted compared to Valdeolmos or Viñas de Arcilla due to high content of sand in its soil.
RIBERA DEL DUERO 2018
Finca Valdeolmos
90% Tinto Fino 10% Albillo
90% Tinto Fino 10% Albillo (14% alc.)
Finca Valdeolmos is located around the prestigious town of Roa at 860m altitude on stony and sandy soils with high content of active limestone (chalk). It was aged for almost two years in barrels followed by some bottle ageing. This is riper than El Peruco with more structure and horizontality due to the active limestone, the fresh and fine-grained tannins sustain length and salivation. The aromatic displays some notes of bitter chocolate, spices with hints of red fruit and blood orange. A stunning wine.
Bodega Akutain Wines
RIOJA 2021
Cosecha
97% Tempranillo, 3% Garnacha
97% Tempranillo, 3% Garnacha (12.5% alc.)
Hand crafted Rioja by a very small independent 6.5ha estate in the Rioja Alta where the finest Riojas emanate, here the 25-40yo vines are planted in a pale calcareous clay at 500-650m altitude and give a yield averaging 40hh. The first of the Akutain wines is aged in cuve 100% and bottled unfiltered after a year. On the palate it is very much on the fruit with attractive depth of ripe raspberry and plum fruit with liquorice, a fleck of cinnamon and bay leaf, it finishes clean and saline where the influence of limestone soil can clearly be sensed.
RIOJA 2018
Crianza
93% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Viura
93% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Viura (13% alc.)
This is a blend from the four parcels of vines worked by Akutain, vinified in tank then transferred into 45% new to 6yo, and 55% 7yo and much older oak barrels which as per a long Rioja tradition come 75% from the Appalachian region of USA, with the balance from France. Aged for 20 months in barrel (six months longer than the minimum 14 months prescribed) and racked barrel by barrel twice a year it was bottled without filtration, and then aged for a further eight months in their deep under-vineyard cellar. As you’d expect this is more of a traditional Rioja, with a mix of plum and prune fruit and herbal touch with the wine's vanilla aromas soon evolving and melding into its savoury backdrop. Once again, the finish is clean and saline due to the calcareous soil. Benefits from carafeing or opening an hour before serving. For drinking now to 2030.
RIOJA 2017
Reserva
93% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Viura
93% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Viura (14% alc.)
Akutain’s top wine is also a blend of their four parcels, but here there's a higher percentage from their high altitude vineyard of Gembres (650m). Cool nights and larger diurnal temperature range impact on the quality of the juice giving exquisite fruit, more acidity and ageing potential. Vinified in tank and then barrel aged in the same way as the Crianza, the Reserva receives an additional two months in barrel and four months in bottle before release. There is more structure and complexity here with spicy, plummy, dried fig fruit as well as a herbal edge; oak ageing seamlessly integrated and allows a fresh and lifted finish, with salinity keeping everything in focus. For drinking now to 2035.
3 Viñerones Wines
RIOJA 2018
La Esquirla del Bardallo
97% Tempranillo, 3% Viura
97% Tempranillo, 3% Viura (13.5% alc.)
An 'esquirla' is a shard-shaped rock used as a cutting tool during the Neolithic period, it is often found around the barranco (lieu-dit) El Bardallo. It was fermented in open fiberglass vats from foot trodden grapes with 50% stems for balance and freshness. Ageing on fine lees took place in different French and Austrian barriques (2 to 3yo minimum) for just over 12 months. A reduced and earthy nose slowly opens and reveals intriguing aromas of bramble, menthol and maraschino liquor; the mouth is restrained and structured with fresh and lovely tannins triggering salivation and length. This is a characterful and modern Rioja in the best sense of the word.
Masseria del Pino Wines
ETNA ROSSO 2020
I Nove Fratelli
90% Nerello Mascalese, 10% Nerello Cappuccio
90% Nerello Mascalese, 10% Nerello Cappuccio (13.5% alc.)
Made from 120 to 140yo vines on the ancient terraces of a north facing clos at 800m altitude above Randazzo. Working organically and tending the vines meticulously, Cesare and Federica bring in a minute yield (averaging 14hh) into their palmento (winery) and after destalking trod the grapes by foot in ancient vats made of volcanic basalt. An open-air fermentation begins, the cap is punched for a few days, then it’s not touched bar keeping the cap moist for the rest of the cuvaison, after which the wine is decanted off into one 300ltr and five 600ltr barrels, with the solids pressed and added, and the wine then remains until bottling after partial filtration 16 months later. These primitive techniques have changed little since vines first appeared in Contrada Pino in the 9th century, and one can imagine this is what the wine might have tasted like back then. It is a profound Etna Rosso, very close to the grapes, richly flavoured with black cherry, balsamic spices, and a fresh-laid-tar suggestion often found in young Barolo but with a lovely acidity keeping everything in focus. Its gripping, yet silty-fine tannin is a trademark of wines from Contrada Pino and there is much more freshness and energy than you find in many Etna Rosso that weigh in at 15% or more.
ETNA ROSATO 2021
Super Luna
90% Nerello Mascalese, 10% Nerello Cappuccio
90% Nerello Mascalese, 10% Nerello Cappuccio (13.5% alc.)
The farm and vineyard at Masseria del Pino are surrounded by ancient woods where abandoned vines have returned to their liana-like natural state (lambrusque); climbing up to the canopy a few meters high they still produce grapes. Federica and Cesare usually wait for a full moon (super luna) to kick off the harvest, they pick these 'wild' grapes (40 to 50kg) from 4am, under the moonlight, and make a pied de cuve with them. They add this to tiny yields of directly pressed grapes to produce just 800bts of this exquisite rosé. It’s harvested a little earlier than the red for lower alcohol and higher acidity. Cuve aged and bottled in May the wine has a strawberry red colour, cherry and pomegranate fruits with a thrilling mineral vibration that only volcanic terroir can confer. No added sulphur. The label designed by Federica is just beautiful too.
VINO BIANCO 2020
Caravan Petrol
55% Carricante, 20% Minella, 20% Catarratto + others!
55% Carricante, 20% Minella, 20% Catarratto + others! (12% alc.)
Caravan Petrol is a famous Neapolitan song – used here as a reference to the success of Etna wines and big brands that have gone on a buying and planting spree in the area. Federica's label is a dig at this gold rush and the DOC body that promotes it: the seven deputies on the DOC committee are depicted riding their camels on a desert Etna. The 140yo ungrafted vines are scattered among the nerellos and some of them are so ancient that the varieties are unknown. The whole bunches are slowly pressed in two 500ltr barrels for fermentation and ageing – one French Taransaud and one made by a local tonnelier from the farm's 100yo chestnut trees. Bottled in June the following year, no SO2 was added at all. Such a unique wine that combines power and gras with salty acids, moreish honeydew melon aromas and lengthy herbal aftertaste. We hear the local Eric Narioo (Vino di Anna) and his mate JF 'Fanfan' Ganevat are big fans.
Giardini ColeRinger Wines
EPHALUMP 2022
50% Grecanico Dorato, 50% Carricante, Minella, Catarratto, Insolia
50% Grecanico Dorato, 50% Carricante, Minella, Catarratto, Insolia (12.5% alc.)
This comes from the ungrafted pre-phylloxeric vines in the 'orchard-vineyard' at the family’s farmhouse (see profile). The indigenous varieties (20% of whole bunches) were macerated for six days in open vats and then aged in stainless steel for 11 months. Beautifully combining power and elegance, this is saline, fruit-forward with a somehow austere but enticing structure. Ephalump is a character from Winnie-the-Pooh, "a scary but kind in spirit big grey elephant – just like the Etna!"
E LA NAVE VA 2022
80% Nerello Mascalese, 15% Grenache, 5% Nerello Cappuccio, Teinturier
80% Nerello Mascalese, 15% Grenache, 5% Nerello Cappuccio, Teinturier (13.5% alc.)
This is the one wine that caught our attention on a late night at Cave Ox (Solicchiata) when Eric Narioo pressed Sandro (Cave Ox' owner) for a nightcap! As per Ephalump, this comes from the family’s own 'garden of Eden' in the prestigious contrada Nave (see profile). The bunches were harvested fully ripe, destemmed by hand to preserve the integrity of the grapes. 15 days of semi-carbonic maceration in closed vats were followed by 15 more days of maceration in open vats. The wine was basket pressed and aged for one year in stainless steel. This is a stunning wine of depth and sapidity – a beautiful play between the lush mediterranean fruit and refreshing tannic structure with complex spicy and herbal aromas. There’s a fascinating element of plenitude in this wine undoubtedly carried by the intense minerality of the own-rooted vines. E la Nave Va ('and the ship sails on') is a pun based on the title of Federico Fellini’s 1983 masterpiece – it summarises the idea of letting go and embracing what may come.
CENDRE 2022
100% Grecanico Dorato
100% Grecanico Dorato (12% alc.)
Ginger, Romain and their family are active participants in the community of Randazzo, they’ve befriended a few elder farmers who happily sell them grapes grown following the local type of permaculture – an ancient savoir-faire that Giardini ColeRinger has proudly embraced. Grecanico dorato is arguably the most emblematic white variety in the contrada Nave. Here, the grapes were sourced from a plot at 1070m altitude. Following a slow direct press, the wine fermented and aged in chestnut demi-muids for one year. The barrels were regularly topped up throughout élevage with the Ephalump wine. The name Cendre (ash in French) comes from a deposit of volcanic ashes that appears at the bottom of some bottles – it obviously does not alter the taste or health of the drinker as a charcoal stick that filters water. The wine is generous on the palate with tropical fruits and spicy aromas, it is perfectly balanced thanks to savoury bitters and lip-smacking acidity.
NESSUN CI DIVIDERÀ 2022
100% Grenache
100% Grenache (12.5% alc.)
This comes from four small parcels of old grenache planted at 900-1000m altitude in contrada Nave (2km away from the family’s farm). The four plots were harvested altogether, the grapes macerated for over two weeks, and the resulting wine aged in chestnut demi-muids during nine months. The aromatics display a discreet peatiness that enhance moreish flavours of ripe cherries, almond, pistachio and cloves. On the palate, this is a lifted light red combining great drinkability and character – reminiscent of the best mountain wines! 'Nessun ci dividerà' translates as 'nobody will divide us' – the four plots are now one wine and indivisible; at a deeper level it represents the family’s adventure and move to Sicily facing all the challenges involved as one.
Alessandro Viola Wines
NOTE DI BIANCO 2023
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Grillo
100% Grillo (12.5% alc.)
The grapes come from Santa Ninfa and Pietrarenosa down the valley (250m) on clayey soils. Alessandro points out that grillo is a strong variety which adapts easily to drought and consistently delivers quality and quantity. Vines are 15yo, grapes were harvested early September at 40hh and directly pressed. It was fermented and aged in stainless steel before early bottling in January with 20mg/l SO2 added. This is the azienda’s flagship, fruit forward with lovely pear skin bitters, it is joyful, fresh, lifted by a citrusy and salty finish. An extremely smashable wine.
SINFONIA DI BIANCO 2021
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Grillo
100% Grillo (13% alc.)
As per Note di Bianco the grillo grapes come from vineyards around Santa Ninfa and Pietrarenosa – this is a selection of the most qualitative plots harvested a few days later for extra ripeness. The grapes stay on their skins for three days without extraction before being pressed, the wine ages in old chestnut botti, bottling with low SO2. Intense, textural and aromatic it displays refreshing and food-friendly bitters (a perfect match with couscous alla Trapanese!), and showcases how versatile grillo can be.
LE MIE ORIGINI 2021
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Catarratto
100% Catarratto (12.5% alc.)
The jewel in the crown and Alessandro’s favorite grape – he has fond memories devouring catarratto during harvest as depicted on the slick wooden label. The vines for Le Mie Origini (My Origins) were planted by the grandfather more than 30 years ago, they grow up on the mountain pass at 500-600m altitude. Limestone soils, north-east exposition, underground water and cool sea breeze are ideal for cataratto. A variety which is able to express terroir like no other according to Alessandro. Usually picked at the end of September, the grapes go through one night maceration into the press, fermentation and ageing happen in 2,500ltr botti with well-judged lees stirring and no SO2 added until bottling (10-20mg/l). Deep in color while the palate is round and rich, the expansive mouthfeel is perfectly balanced by salty acids, an umami bomb with complex flavours of juicy peach, spiced apricot, fresh hay and peated cereal – an aromatic profile reminiscent of the best white Châteauneuf-du-Papes. The finish is long, taut and salivating, this is a food-friendly and moreish wine in the purest Sicilian form.
ROSÉ 2023
Terre Siciliane IGP
90% Nero d’Avola, 10% Nerello Mascalese
90% Nero d’Avola, 10% Nerello Mascalese (11.5% alc.)
Nero d'avola from the valley near Santa Ninfa and a touch of nerello from Alcamo, both picked early, directly pressed and vinified/aged in stainless steel to enhance freshness of fruit. Zesty with acidulated red fruits, blood orange, and peppery aromas, this is the perfect spring/summer wine, pure pleasure and indeed pretty 'smashable'.
NOTE DI ROSSO 2022
Terre Siciliane IGP
40% Nero d’Avola, 40% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Perricone
40% Nero d’Avola, 40% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Perricone (13% alc.)
"The perfect Sicilian blend", as Alessandro says, juicy and thirst-quenching, typically Mediterranean with summer strawberries and liquorice roots flavours. The fruit-forward nero d'avola is planted in a valley inland near Santa Ninfa, while the rustic nerello and earthy perricone come from Alcamo, a 10yo massal selection from local old vines. Alessandro insists on the fact that the massal of nerello does not come from the Etna, Alcamo’s nerello is somehow different and better-suited to the area. Grapes were totally destemmed, a week maceration followed by fermentation and ageing in stainless steel.
Tanca Nica Wines
SOKI SOKI 2023
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Zibibbo
100% Zibibbo (13% alc.)
Different plots of zibibbo bush vines (alberello Pantesco) from different contradas, with various altitudes and expositions. Grown mostly on pumice-heavy 'soki soki' soils (see profile), the parcels were vinified separately undergoing different lengths of maceration – from one night to a week – based on ripeness and aromatics of the skins. Low yields bring concentration, intensity, and balance. Aged on fine lees in 6yo barrels and stainless steel, and bottled with the addition of 15% 'riserva perpetua' started in 2018. This is fragrant, almost medicinal, with moreish mediterranean herbs, a perfect balance of texture and tension, and a lengthy salivating finish. A stunning wine with high drinkability. Total SO2 15mg/l.
TERRA FORTE 2023
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Zibibbo
100% Zibibbo (13.5% alc.)
The clayey and sandy 'terra forte' soil is a degradation of basalt and obsidian and does not contain any pumice (soki soki), this is a rich type of soil that confers power and structure to the zibibbo grapes. As a wine, Terra Forte is therefore the antithesis of Soki Soki – viscous, age-worthy and tannic "como un vino rosso!", this is a class act with flavours of bergamot, mandarin and peach skin bitters. The grapes come from a single vineyard in the contrada Bonsulton (neighbouring Bukkuram), the vines were planted in 1931 and grow between the outcropping bedrock with little topsoil. Winemaking involves 15 days of maceration on skins, and ageing occurs in glass demijohns as well as stainless steel vats. Only 1,000 bottles are produced each year.
KAFFEFI 2023
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Catarratto
100% Catarratto (12.5% alc.)
Traditionally planted against the terrasses’ walls (see profile), the 40-80yo catarratto vines come from different parcels. Harvested around September 20th, the grapes go through a 24 hours press for extra structure. The wine fermented and aged in stainless steel on lees with batonnages, bottling occurred without any additives. Typically low in alcohol and pH (3.2), the catarratto variety has always been the Pantesco’s favourite for everyday drinking – Francesco aims at emulating the elders’ taste characterised by crunchy texture and rusticity, while carefully expressing the 'soki soki' terroir of contrada Kaffefi.
FIRRI FIRRI 2022
Terre Siciliane IGP
85% Catarratto, 10% Pignatello, 5% Inzolia
85% Catarratto, 10% Pignatello, 5% Inzolia (11.5% alc.)
Firri Firri is a traditional hoe used in the vineyards, and also the nickname of the old vignaiolo who previously owned the land. 50yo bush vines on volcanic sand, a cool NE exposed plot at 300m altitude, the vines were harvested at the end of September, and the whole bunches were processed altogether – three days maceration, fermentation and ageing in vats. Blended with 10% of 'riserva perpetua' before bottling, 15mg/l SO2 total. The wine has an attractive poulsard-like colour, lifted aromatics of pomegranate, mandarin and liquorice, a juicy texture with refreshing tannins and a salty finish.
PASSULATA 2022
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Zibibbo
100% Zibibbo (14% alc, 150g/l of rs)
"For me, this is the wine that truly represents Pantelleria; it’s wild and unpredictable, it re-ferments several times, and tastes different in every season. Passulata is the passito before the 'passito', the old ways – the real deal." That’s how Francesco introduces an ancestral style of wine that nobody makes anymore – the yields are low, the cost and risk are high, and there is no mention of the method in the oenology books, only a few old farmers can teach it. Harvest kicks off in August with a first passage through the vines; early-ripening bunches with loose and large berries are selected and laid on draining 'soki soki' soils (see profile). The grapes are flipped over every two days against humidity and rot while the heat of the ground dries them. The skills reside in knowing when to stop the drying process and combining the right amount of grapes with a fermenting pied de cuve. The must macerates on skin for a couple of months, it’s then pressed in demi-johns where it will remain for a year (outdoors, exposed to the elements) before bottling without any additives. Salt, sugar, umami, bitters, VA, ethanal, volcanic mineral stamp, complex medicinal aromatics – so much for the senses – a 'vino di meditazione' that also opens many doors with food. For drinking now to 2060?
NB X TN 2021
Terre Siciliane IGP
95% Catarratto, 5% Zibibbo
95% Catarratto, 5% Zibibbo (12.5% alc.)
Nino Barraco X Tanca Nica: a collaboration between close family friends and talented vignaioli with a common vision of wine. The aim was to create a wine that links the territory of Marsala on the mainland with the island of Pantelleria, "this is to pay homage to the historic pilgrimage across the Sicilian channel. Pantelleria and Marsala have always been united by a 'fil rouge' – in the past Pantesco sailing ships brought raisins and capers to the mainland and took everything we lacked in exchange”, Francesco explains. This scarce bottling is based on Nino's catarratto in contrada Stagnone (in front of the island of Mozia looking towards Pantelleria), where only a few meters separate the vines from the sea. Some of Tanca Nica's passulata (made from the 1931 zibibbo plot in Bonsulton's 'terra forte') was added to the still wine for the second fermentation. The vino frizzante obtained has a pressure of about 1.5 bars – a fine 'perlage' that highlights its amazing salinity. No disgorgement, it remains on its lees to ensure a long life!
NIVURO NOSTRALE 2020
Terre Siciliane IGP
100% Pignatello
100% Pignatello (12.5% alc.)
Nivuro Nostrale is the Pantesco name for the pignatello grape also known as perricone on the mainland. As per the catarratto, pignatello prefers shadow and humidity, and the 80-90yo vines here are mostly found growing against the terrasses’ walls. Grapes are partially destemmed and macerate for 10-15 days before gentle pressing. The wine feeds a 'riserva perpetua' started in 2016 – every year 150ltr are taken from the old barrels and bottled with a pinch of SO2. Vertical, lifted and rustic the wine displays spicy and peppery aromatics, the mouthfeel is dense and umami-loaded with cured meat, capers and balsamic notes – quintessentially Pantesco!
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Wines
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
En Cailleret
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Regarded as one of the outstanding premiers crus of Chassagne, En Cailleret is a vineyard with shallow, rocky limestone that turn more marly at the top of the slope, and a superb south-east exposition. Thibault owns 0.65ha planted between 1985-1990, and this was aged in 30% new 350ktr barrels on fine lees for 16 months. The nose is a little timid, as often is the case with Cailleret in the early stages, showing precision and cut. The limestone truly takes over on the palate, bringing drive and salivation. There’s good ripeness to the predominantly citrus fruit, with a touch of white fruit. Beautiful bitters and dry extract on the long, saline finish. Drink from 2028-2034.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
La Romanée
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Higher up on the hillside, this is a beautiful 0.8ha parcel of vines planted in 1957 surrounded by shrubs and trees, more akin to a vineyard in the Jura than the normal unbroken sea of vines in this area. The trees also protect the vineyard from the north wind, thus helping the grapes to ripen early. The soils here are red, with the limestone breaking out in places, and vary in depth from 30cm to 1.2m, producing a wine renowned for both opulence and an intense minerality. Clear pale colour, a touch of reduction at first that quicky lifts off. The detail starts to emerge and it’s a little riper than Caillerets, the fruit a touch plumper, a fine trace of acidity behind, almost painful minerality, balanced, understated, classy. Will age very well.
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2022
Les Pucelles
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
Lies alongside Bâtard-Montrachet and one of Burgundy’s finest white vineyards giving magical floral wine, the quintessence of Puligny. From a 0.20ha parcel of vines planted in 1997. Here the soil is ploughed by horse and the vine apex is tressed rather than clipped. Pale lemon colour. Elegant, pure and airy aromas display notes of passion fruit, honeysuckle, smoky mineral reduction, the sheer class quickly apparent. The generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence while exhibiting excellent focus on the sappy, persistent and beautifully refined finale. This is very complete having both the flesh of the vintage and some backbone. 40% new wood 12.6% alc. Drink from 2028-2034.
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
From a south-west facing slope in white coloured marl with small chalky stones overlying a hard limestone base. It’s a wine of style and race, with a little mineral reduction, spice and smoky notes on the nose, density and yet finesse, a limpid quality, marked salinity, and a lot of precision on the attractively textured and stony finish that is nicely complex and persistent.
BATARD-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU 2022
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (13% alc.)
From a tiny 0.13ha parcel of vines planted in 1996 and located on the Chassagne side of the slope. As for Pucelle, ploughing is done by horse and the vines are not clipped but tressed. Pale primrose colour. Impressive fruit volume on the nose without feeling over opulent, features notes of peach, acacia blossom, jasmine and exotic spice nuances. The wood is perfectly integrated. Develops well in the glass, but with classic Morey-Coffinet restraint. The sleek, intense and beautifully precise, broad-shouldered flavours deliver stunningly good length on the compact and superbly well-balanced finale. Excellent acidity. Thankfully not a blockbuster, just a really fine Bâtard-Montrachet. 50% new wood.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 2022
Les Chaumes
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13% alc.)
Lower down the hill here, there is a Chassagne 1er Cru of the same name, though the 50yo vines here lie alongside the 1er Cru of Boudriotte and are planted in a shallow, compact limestone-clay soil. Destalked 100%, given a 20 days cuvaison, no pigeage, with ageing in 35% new to 3yo oak 350ltr barrels, unfined and unfiltered with 50mg/l total sulphur. Mid-purple, a restrained, elegant nose combines ripe raspberry aromas with floral and discreet spice wisps. There is good energy and delineation thanks to fine-grained tannins shaping the finish. A very good Chassagne villages and worth your interest.
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU
Morgeot
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (13.5% alc.)
Prime territory for pinot noir here to the south of the village where the hill starts to decrease, the 60yo vines are in the sector of Francemont, planted facing south-east in a relatively shallow soil (60cms) where limestone has more influence than clay. The wine can be quite muscular when young but mellows with age. Aged in 50% new oak 350ltr barrels, just a little bit more intense in purple. The fruit is balanced and at the perfect pitch of ripeness. Much more powerful on the palate with some black cherry notes as well as a little red fruit, with dry extract that helps to buffer the notably firmer tannic spine shaping the lengthy finish.