Clandestin
| Vigneron | Benoît Doussot and Alexia Nicolas |
| Location | Landreville (Aube) |
| Size of Domaine | Micro négoce 8-12ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate. Kimmeridgian clay-limestone soil over hard limestone bedrock, some Portlandian limestone. Gentle slopes, various aspects. 140-220m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Buying from growers organic certified or in conversion. |
| View Clandestin wines ↓ |
Freshly graduated from the Lycée Viticole of Beaune in the summer of 2015, the young and talented Benoît Doussot devised the micro-négoce project Clandestin with Bertrand Gautherot of Vouette & Sorbée. The pair used to make champagnes in a converted barn next door to the Vouette & Sorbée cellar, in Buxières-sur-Arce. Fast forward ten years, Benoît is now flying solo. He’s based in the village of Landreville, where he completed the construction of a state-of-the-art winery in 2023, and sources grapes from 11 vignerons in the Côte des Bar.
Clandestin aims to showcase the different geological strata of the Côte des Bar: Kimmeridgian and Portlandian, both part of the Jurassic period and geologically similar to those found in Chablis – in contrast to the chalkier soils of the Vallée de la Marne, which are predominantly from the younger Cretaceous period. Kimmeridgian soils are rich in marl and marine fossils, lending the wines tension and finesse, while the purer limestone of the Portlandian tends to produce broader, more structured wines.
Benoît works closely with partner vignerons and purchases only organically grown grapes. The project encourages respectful viticulture by supporting growers in their conversion to organic practices and by valuing their work – allowing them to taste the final result of their labour, rather than seeing their fruit absorbed into unremarkable blends by the Marne-based big houses.
The winery was designed over two floors to allow gravity-fed operations, ensuring gentle handling of the wines. Long, spontaneous fermentations begin in temperature-controlled vats and continue in barrels. The still wines are aged for twelve months in oak, before spending another winter 'en masse' in vats. After the second fermentation, ageing 'sur lattes' typically lasts for 15 months.
Benoît grew up in Beaune and trained with Jean-Philippe Fichet while studying. Jean-Philippe spoke warmly of Benoît during our last visit to Meursault, highlighting his passion and dedication. His precision and Burgundian sensibility have helped him swiftly master vinification and ageing 'sous bois' – he favours older 500-600ltr barrels over the 228ltr 'pièces bourguignonnes' which promote reduction and minimise the need for SO2. "It does keep the wines chiselled and enhances purity", Benoît explains.
Clandestin Wines
BORÉAL (2022)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
The grapes come from 15-35yo vines in four different plots around Landreville – they’re all planted on north-facing coteaux, hence the name Boréal. The parcels are located mid-slope in the same strata of Kimmeridgian limestone (see cross-section on profile). The still wine was aged in older barrels before being bottled off and kept 15 months 'sur lattes'. It offers wild strawberry fruit on the nose, good balance with zesty freshness and salivating bitters on the palate; the finish is savoury and thirst-quenching. Disgorged 04/25 - Non dosé.
AUSTRAL (2022)
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)
As opposed to Boréal, the cuvée Austral comes from south-facing plots (seven in total). The vines are also planted mid-slope in Kimmeridgian marls, and the wine is made in the same way. As expected, it is a deeper and multi-layered champagne (compared to Boréal) with a rich and food-friendly mouthfeel. Disgorged 04/25 - Non dosé.
LES PASSAGERS (2022)
Fiole
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The label Les Passagers is for ephemeral wines – from single vineyards in expressive terroirs, sourced only as one-offs or over a few vintages. Fiole is a lieu-dit in the village of Ville-sur-Arce, on a north-facing slope. The vines sit atop a coteau and are planted in the Kimmeridgian ‘Superieur’ (see cross-section on profile). The wine is taut and saline, with a textured, nuanced profile and aromas of fresh almonds. Disgorged 04/25 - Non dosé.
LES PASSAGERS (2022)
Haut de Val Barmont
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Like the cuvée Fiole, the Haut de Val Barmont parcel is located along the Arce river in Ville-sur-Arce. The vines are NW-facing and planted in a plateau of Porlandian limestone. This is rustic and structured, with limestone-induced bitters; the finish is extremely long and complex.
LES GRANDES LIGNES (2020)
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This comes from the south-facing lieu-dit of Sorbée in Buxières-sur-Arce, where the limestone is Portlandian, considered one of the finest terroirs in the area. This champagne has amazing depth and finesse, with tense citrus fruits tethered by notable chalky salinity on the finish. Disgorged 11/23 - Non dosé.