David Williams on Duclaux Cote Rotie 2007

David Williams in The Observer 17thNovember 2013
on David & Benjamin Duclaux Côte Rôtie LaGermine 2007 (£32.10 inc VAT)

France’snorthern Rhône is syrah’s spiritual home, providing a template for the pepperybut fresh style that is followed by producers in cooler climates around theworld.

If I werehaving, say, a Hawksmoor Porterhouse rather than a Café Rouge minute steak, I’dgo for the Duclaux, a haunting mix of brambly berries and iron-in-the-bloodminerals.