Paul Gosset
| Vigneron | Paul Gosset |
| Location | Aÿ-Champagne (Marne) |
| Size of Domaine | 4.2 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate with Oceanic influence. Clay-limestone soil on chalk bedrock. Various aspects, some steep slopes. 100-150m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Practising organic viticulture and agroforestry. |
| View Paul Gosset wines ↓ |
With records going as far back as 1584, the Gosset family spans an impressive 19 generations with Paul now carrying the torch. The family domaine, Gosset-Brabant, had long been run jointly by Paul's father and uncle. In 2016, the two split the estate between them, freeing Michel – and the newly returned Paul – to set out on their own.
Paul wasn't planning on joining the domaine and taking over, but his experience at Le Wine Bar in Reims opened his eyes to the remarkable diversity of styles and philosophies in the region. He felt inspired by vignerons such as Olivier Horiot, who works meticulously to make champagnes of real character, and decided to get involved.
Spread across four villages – Aÿ Grand Cru (1.6ha including 0.77ha in La Côte Faron, perhaps the most sought-after lieu-dit in prestigious Aÿ, think Selosse), and the 1er Crus Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Dizy, and Vertus – the vineyards Paul inherited were in pristine condition: aiming for limited yields, his father and uncle focused on feeding the soil rather than the vines since the 1980s, ditching fertilisers in favour of regular ploughing and manure.
The stunning coteau of Aÿ – UNESCO World Heritage 
Biodiversity is at the centre of Paul's vision. Cover crops are sown in autumn to structure and nourish the soil and also provide habitats for the local fauna. He also experiments with agroforestry, but only when planting new vineyards to promote synergy and avoid competition between the root systems of vines and trees. The same approach applies to the genetic selection of new plantings, favouring a 50-50 mix of massal selections from the domaine and reputed nurseries.
Paul believes that extracting the juice closer to the skin, which is richer in polyphenols, is vital to produce a wine that has complexity and balance. With this in mind, pressing occurs on a traditional Coquard press, only the juice from the 'retrousses' (pressure release and breaking up of the cake before pressing again) goes through 'débourbage', and all of the juice (both 'cuvée' and 'taille') is vinified. A 'pied de cuve' is used for a quick start of fermentation in enamelled vats (50%) and old demi-muids (50%), which allows for minimal use of SO2 (at racking only). From 2020, Paul has extended the élevage prior to bottling to two years for all his still wines, and the champagnes age a minimum of 15 months 'sur lattes'.
Paul Gosset was on everyone's lips on each of our last visits to the region, and judging from the quality of his wines, it's pretty clear why. This is one of the brightest young talents in the region, working on prime terroirs, a name to watch.
Paul Gosset Wines
DES JOURS ET DES MUIDS
80% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay
80% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Between them, the three villages of Aÿ, Dizy, and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ account for 89% of the domaine's holdings. Paul draws on plots across all three for this cuvée. The backbone of Des Jours et des Muids is a perpetual reserve started in 2004 that connects the different generations at the domaine. The current bottling is based on the 2022 vintage (70% of the blend), which was added to the reserve after fermentation and aged for two years before bottling (one year in 600ltr demi-muids followed by a year in vats). The nose is fragrant, with hints of cherry blossom and yellow plums; the palate is full and silky on the attack, and builds tension progressively towards a lifted and complex finish. Disgorged 10/25 - Dosage 1g/l.
LA MONTRE
90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay
90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Produced in very limited quantity, La Montre is a blend of the first press (no 'tailles' added) from the best parcels in Dizy, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and Aÿ (including La Côte Faron). Interestingly for a 'réserve perpétuelle' cuvée, the reserve wine (started with the 2016 vintage) is stored not in barrel or in vat, but in bottle under a light 'prise de mousse' – Paul operates what is known as a 'remise en cercle' when blending with the latest vintage. This specific élevage is highly unusual in the region and brings tension and vinosity to the wines. The current release is based on 2021 (40%); the still wine was aged for two years – as per Des Jours et des Muids – before bottling and a further 18 months 'sur lattes'. The palate is multi-layered and expansive, sustained by a gentle mousse; there is a long chalk-induced mineral finish, with a developed and complex bouquet. Fittingly, the watch on the label always tells the time in vintages: the hands point to however many years currently make up the blend. Disgorged 03/25 - Dosage 2g/l.