Girard-Bonnet
| Vigneron | Paul Girard |
| Location | Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (Marne) |
| Size of Domaine | 12 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate with Oceanic influence. Clay-limestone soil on chalk bedrock. Various aspects, gentles slopes. 100-200m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Certified biodynamic (Demeter) |
| View Girard-Bonnet wines ↓ |
Paul Girard created the domaine in 2018 by bringing both sides of his family holdings under a single entity: Oger Grand Cru (3.5ha) as well as Vertus and Voipreux 1er Crus (5ha) via his mother Dominique Bonnet, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru (3.5ha) via his father Philippe Girard.
Holistic in his approach and aware of the importance of marketing and communication in today's competitive marketplace, Paul took the unusual step of studying wine management in Bordeaux followed by work experience in the US before he started his project. In the vineyards, Paul is moving through the gears with pace.
The domaine has been organic from the start; biodynamics followed in 2020 (certified in 2023), and agroforestry soon after, with the planting of trees and hedges in and around the vineyards.
Paul sees animals as one of the missing links in modern agriculture and was keen to reintroduce them. Starting from 2021, sheep graze through the vineyards in winter and some of the oldest parcels are now horse-ploughed, a welcome sight in Le Mesnil and Oger where viticulture tends to be very conservative.
On top of working some of the most prestigious terroirs in the Côte des Blancs, Paul was privileged to inherit a majority of high-quality massal selections averaging 60yo, the oldest ones dating back to 1912!
After pressing, the must goes into barrels of different sizes, foudres, terracotta amphoras, and stainless steel tanks for fermentation and élevage. The wines are aged on full lees to protect them from oxidation and reduce the need for SO2.
As Paul points out, "I am not totally against SO2, I add a small amount under the press, but when the wine is on its lees, it doesn't need any!". Malos are completed, there is no fining or filtration, and the 'prise de mousse' usually takes place in summer after a minimum of 10 months ageing.
Paul is a smart, passionate vigneron brimming with energy and positivity. He caught Antonio Galloni's attention with his first release, no mean feat, and judging from the 'vins clairs' recently tasted from barrels, he's only just getting started.
Sheep grazing in winter Girard-Bonnet Wines
AU BOUT DU CHEMIN
1er Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The name of this cuvée – the end of the road – reflects the vines' location within Paul's holdings: the 1er Crus Vertus and Voipreux are the last and southernmost villages he cultivates – they mark the geographic end of the chalky slopes of the Côte des Blancs. The current bottling is based on the 2023 vintage, vinified and aged in stainless steel as well as 500-600ltr barrels. The final blend contains 20% of reserve wines from the previous two vintages. As Vertus and Voipreux lie further south and have a deeper clay topsoil before reaching the Campanian chalk (compared to Le Mesnil and Oger), the vines yield soft-textured wines with a generosity of fruit – this cuvée represents excellent value with high drinkability, a crowd-pleaser. Disgorged 12/25 – Dosage 2g/l.
À MI-CHEMIN
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
A blend of 50% Le Mesnil and 50% Oger, the current bottling is a 2023 base including 30% reserve wines aged in foudres. The still wine was vinified and aged in stainless steel as well as 350-600ltr barrels, bottled in June 2024 with a 22g/l 'liqueur de tirage', and the champagne matured 20 months 'sur lattes'. À mi-chemin translates as halfway – a cuvée symbolising the union of both branches of the family (see profile) – halfway between Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. It's a beautiful champagne, very elegant, floral, and sapid. It has an 'aérien' quality with its bright chalk-induced acidity and delicate mousse. Disgorged 12/25 – Dosage 1.5g/l.
MON VILLAGE
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This is Paul's tribute to his village, the prestigious Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with all the restraint and intensely mineral backbone the village is known for. 70yo vines spread across the village's two characteristic soils – outcropping Campanian chalk and shallow colluvium topsoil over chalk – give low yields of concentrated fruit. Vinification occurs in barrels of different sizes (around 25% new, seamlessly integrated) and the final blend sees 30% of of 'réserve perpétuelle' (started in 2018) matured in foudres. In Le Mesnil, the chalk is never far: often little or no topsoil, so the vines' roots hit chalk almost immediately, yielding wines with deep and complex bitter structures – this is why fruit from this Grand Cru village is so sought after. This 2022 base shows perfect balance with a gentle floral nose, fine soft mousse, ample yet 'ciselé' palate, and a long saline finish. Austere at first, it opens up beautifully in the glass and will reward a couple of years' cellaring post-disgorgement. Disgorged 02/26 – Dosage 1g/l.