2017 11 28 ATLAS OF TASTE CHAMPAGNE 78960
Alexandre Chartogne

Chartogne-Taillet

VigneronAlexandre Chartogne
LocationMerfy (Marne)
Size of Domaine12 ha
TerroirContinental climate with Oceanic influence. Clay, sand and sandstone over chalk bedrock. Gentle slopes, various aspects. 80-150m altitude.
ViticulturePracticing organic
View Chartogne-Taillet wines ↓

Chartogne-Taillet based in Merfy just north-west of Reims and run by Alexandre Chartogne is hitting new heights of excellence. Starting out in 2006 at the age of just 23, Alexandre worked briefly with Anselme Selosse, who has heavily influenced his ideas on viticulture (although their winemaking styles are radically different).

Setting out to understand all his terroirs and sub-soils (clay and sand over chalk), Alexandre has worked closely with renowned soil analyst Claude Bourguignon, comparing the still wines he made from each lieu-dit to 17th-century family records of barrels of wine from the same terroirs. These were sold to the monks in a local abbey, who knew their stuff and paid up to ten times more for wines from certain parcels, and Alexandre notes that there was an incredible correlation between the plots highlighted for their qualities by Bourguignon, and the monks preferred parcels.

“By choosing to work with plots, I continue the work of understanding and interpreting nature. I try to capture the natural wealth and translate it in the best way in my cellar, without modification”
2017 11 28 ATLAS OF TASTE CHAMPAGNE 78802
Chicken coop in the middle of the vineyard

He now produces no less than eight special, single parcel bottlings such as Les Barres from ungrafted pinot meunier planted in calcareous sand overlying a bedrock of chalk in 1952, or Les Orizeaux, a pinot noir champagne from 1961 vines planted in broken limestone over deep sands. “By choosing to work with plots, I continue the work of understanding and interpreting nature. I try to capture the natural wealth and translate it in the best way in my cellar, without modification”. Focus here is always on the health of the individual soils – soil and place are of vital importance. Chickens and sheep are allowed to roam around in the vines to eat bugs, grubs and control pests, and help manage weed control. Ploughing by horse, no herbicides or pesticides (but no organic certification), lower yields, natural yeasts, sensitive élevage in oak barrels (ageing some wines under flor) are now the norm, and his champagnes taste very elegant, chiselled and poised.

When we last visited in spring, work on a new cellar was well advanced, and massive old limestone blocks were being winched into place with the aim of everything being finished in time to receive the 2019 harvest. Alexandre is forever experimenting, with restless energy and curiosity at the heart of everything that he does. “I don’t feel good when I’m sure about something” he comments.

10_Vine_Trail_Chartogne_Taillet_16_9 At work in Couarres-Château

Chartogne-Taillet Wines

Chartogne-Taillet

SAINTE-ANNE
55% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)

This is a lovely, delicate style of champagne (22g/l instead of the more typical 24g/l for the secondary fermentation), showing very pure citrus fruits with good energy, a hint of quince, brioche and a saline, mineral flavour. It comes from 30yo vines planted in sandstone, clay and chalk in Merfy and is made 60% from the 2016 vintage, and 40% from 2015, and was disgorged in late 2018 with a 4.5g/l dosage.

Chartogne-Taillet

COUARRES-CHÂTEAU 2013
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)

One of two single vineyard champagnes from Alexandre that he produces in very limited quantities, the pinot noir vines here were planted in 1987, in a parcel where there is 60cm of sandy soils over tufa. This is the third vintage released, aged in 3-6yo barrels with 22g/l for the secondary fermentation. While it shows an intensity and energy typical of 2013, it remains graceful and subtly poised, driven by its tense, pungent minerality. Its elegantly fragrant notes of red cherry and pear persist with excellent length on the finish, anchored by a pronounced salinity. 5.5g/l dosage. VLQ.

Chartogne-Taillet

LES BARRES 2013
100% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)

From a tiny parcel of ungrafted meunier vines planted in 1952 that were never touched by phylloxera (in a layer of sand that lies five feet above a bedrock of chalk), this was fermented entirely in 3-6yo oak barrels. It’s elegantly textured and sleekly built, marked by a graceful tension and a resonant briny signature of sandy soils. It unfolds on the palate with subtle layers of flavour, persisting with refined harmony and excellent length. 5g/l dosage. VLQ.

Chartogne-Taillet

ORIZEAUX 2013
100% Pinot Noir (12.5% alc.)

This comes from vines planted in 1961 in sandy soil just above Alexandre's parcel of Les Barres. The parcel has always been highly prized by the Chartogne family as the wine reflects both the warmth of the sandy soil and the mineral quality of the limestone bedrock. Aged in 3-6yo barrels with 22g/l for the secondary fermentation and 2g/l dosage, it’s a champagne of refinement and class, with succulent, perfectly pitched red fruits and is sure to age very well.

Chartogne-Taillet

ROSÉ
50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)

A delicate salmon pink, this champagne comes mainly from the 2015 vintage and was aged in a mix of stainless steel and barrels. 15% pinot noir still wine from Orizeaux was assembled to give the colour and it was disgorged in Dec 2018. It is a very elegant rosé, with nuanced, layered red cherry and redcurrant fruit, underlined by subtle notes from the soil. The dosage of 5.5g/l suits perfectly.

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