Bérêche & Fils
| Vigneron | Raphaël and Vincent Bérêche |
| Location | Ludes (Marne) |
| Size of Domaine | 11.5 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate with Oceanic influence. Clay-limestone, sand, silt, marl, gravel on chalk bedrock. Various aspects, gentle slopes. 80-150m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Soils are ploughed, no herbicide or insecticide, sulphur and copper against mildew/oidium although fungicide might be used in case of extreme pressure. |
| View Bérêche & Fils wines ↓ |
The domaine has gone from strength to strength under the guidance of brothers Vincent and Raphaël Bérêche, who took over from their parents back in 2004. Based in Ludes (1er Cru), where a portion of their 11.5ha is found, they also own a clutch of well-placed vineyards in and around Ormes (Petite Montagne) and Mareuil-le-Port (Vallée de la Marne), as well as isolated parcels in the 1er Crus Trépail, Rilly-la-Montagne, and Chigny-les-Roses.
To complete the picture, they added small plots over the years in the Grand Crus of Mailly, Verzenay, Ambonnay, Cramant, and Aÿ, taking the domaine into a different league altogether. They started vinifying these prestigious crus under 'Négociant Manipulant' (NM) status; they now own vines in all except Cramant and Ambonnay where they work with trusted growers (working along organic lines). The brothers currently produce eleven champagnes and one Coteaux Champenois from over 20 parcels of vines averaging a high 45yo.
Vincent is in charge of viticulture aided by a team of thirteen full-time employees (around one hectare per person). The work is fastidious, restricting yields, ploughing both between the rows and vines (during plant growth but not in summer), and hand harvesting with a large team of pickers. They work without herbicides or pesticides; 'bouillie bordelaise' is applied against oidium and mildew although fungicide might be used in case of extreme pressure.
Raphaël’s work in the cellar is equally detailed and thoughtful. Wild ferment is the norm, and the still wines age for extended periods under oak – at least until May the following year. Raphaël comments, "the work on fine lees brings reduction and tension, it also helps for the quality of the 'prise de mousse' by increasing the protein that will 'coat' the bubbles." Most of the wines are now vinified in 350ltr barrels, and the reserve wines age in 600ltr demi-muids. The wines made from the 'taille' are only used to season the new barrels integrated into the 'parc à barriques' every year (none end up in the champagnes); all barrels were bought new from the finest suppliers, and they are used as many years as possible. Due to their low pH and high level of acidity, the wines generally don’t go through malolactic fermentation, which helps preserve finesse and ensure longevity.
Raphaël Bérêche All the Bérêche champagnes are now aged under natural cork – for additional complexity via micro-oxygenation – except for the Brut Réserve, which sees the more traditional capsule. In addition, the brothers have invested in tip-top equipment so that both the 'tirage' and disgorgement are made in-house, unusual in Champagne (most domaines use a 'prestataire') and yet another leap in quality. As cork nuts, we also have to compliment Raphaël for selecting the highest grade, called 'Fleur', with an extra density and strength that ensure a much lower incidence of 'chevillé' – where the bottom of the cork turns in and there is a risk of a little oxygen ingress.
As well as letting nothing slip in the cave, Raphaël is one of the most passionate ambassadors for grower champagnes, a fervent believer that joining forces with other like-minded Champagne growers generates a more powerful message and much more interest. He is at the forefront of arranging many tastings around the world, such as the Terres et Vins group that he co-founded with Aurélien Laherte and La Fête du Champagne in New York. He was recently invited along as the guest grower to one of Spain’s most anticipated celebrations, Comando G’s Fiesta de la Floración. Raphaël’s effervescent personality and driving, relentless energy, and the brothers’ attention to the smallest details are producing stunning results.
Bérêche & Fils Wines
BRUT RÉSERVE
30% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay
30% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This champagne reflects most of the terroirs at the domaine: Ludes 1er Cru, Ormes, and Trépail in the Montagne de Reims; and Mareuil-le-Port and Aÿ GC in the Marne Valley. The still wine ages mostly in 350ltr barrels, with some demi-muids and cuves too. The different bottlings are based on a given vintage and include 40% reserve wines from the previous three vintages. The Brut Réserve is bottled with a 'liqueur de tirage' at a classic 23-24g/l sugar (close to 6 bars pressure), as opposed to the other bottlings at the domaine which undergo second fermentation with a lower 22g/l liqueur. The bottles remain in the cellar 'sur lattes' for 24 to 36 months based on the different releases. Raphaël believes dosage is essential for overall balance and age-worthiness of the champagnes (following many years of dedicated trialling against low or no dosage). This is the flagship cuvée chez Bérêche & Fils; it beautifully combines savoury texture, chalk-induced structure, and developed complexity – a class act that punches well above its weight (given the price). The current bottling is based on the 2023 vintage (60%). Disgorged 06/26 - Dosage 5.5g/l.
REFLET D’ANTAN
30% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay
30% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
This is a very specialist champagne that shows how complex reserve wines can become with age. Every year a selection of the best age-worthy wines – made from a similar selection of terroirs to the Brut Réserve (see above) – is introduced to a perpetual reserve in 600ltr demi-muids. This reserve was started in 1984 by Vincent and Raphaël’s grandfather and passed on to the next generations. Each year, two-thirds of the 'solera' is bottled off (leaving the balance to be blended with the young wines of the year) and then aged 'sur lattes' for 36 months before disgorgement. There is a crossover with wine from Jura here, showing subtle and moreish oxidative notes – Reflet D'Antan offers a reflection of the past with astonishing complexity, notes of dried fruits, green almonds, and Manuka honey, while the umami-loaded mouthfeel finishes long with chalky bitters. The brothers have opted for a magnum-only format for this cuvée, offering the best ratio of liquid to microoxidation for ageing. Only 1,200 magnums are produced each year. The current bottling is based on the 2019 vintage (two-thirds). Disgorged 11/24 - Dosage 6g/l.
RIVE GAUCHE 2022
100% Pinot Meunier
100% Pinot Meunier (12.5% alc.)
This is a pure meunier made from two lieux-dits of low-yielding 1969 vines planted in Mareuil-le-Port – Vallée de la Marne. The vines sit on a north-facing slope (rive gauche) in a mix of clay, marl, and limestone soils with fossilised shells. Vinified in 350ltr barrels and aged for three years 'sur lattes' under natural cork, it showcases the Marne Valley pinot meunier’s typical generosity with plump texture, depth of flavours, and subtle complexity. This cuvée has rich aromas of orchard and stone fruits, citrusy freshness, and thirst-quenching salty bitters. Disgorged 11/25 – Dosage 3g/l.
CAMPANIA REMENSIS 2022
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Campania Remensis was the first denomination given by the Romans to the terroirs located around Reims. This exceptional-quality rosé comes from 55yo vines in the village of Ormes (near Reims), previously owned by the brothers' grandmother. Its delicate colour comes from the addition of 5% Coteaux Champenois (pinot noir) made from the same plot on a south-facing coteau. The deep, light, sandy topsoil conveys elegance, lift and nuances to the wine – it is fragrant and floral with delicate aromas of rose, raspberry and pomegranate; similarly, the mouth has succulent flavours with a fresh, vital cut and a saline stamp. Disgorged 03/26 - Dosage 3g/l.
LE CRAN 2018
Ludes 1er Cru
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Domaine Bérêche & Fils traces its origins back to 1847 in the 1er Cru village of Ludes. Le Cran is the most emblematic cuvée chez Bérêche – Raphaël doesn't hesitate to pour it in between Grand Cru wines when showcasing the domaine's full line-up. It is made from 55-60yo vines planted by Vincent and Raphaël's grandfather in the lieu-dit Le Cran de Ludes. This is a cool terroir up in the Montagne de Reims Nord (230m), neighbouring Mailly Grand Cru to the east. The vines sit on steep west-facing and east-facing slopes with bedrock outcropping – the ground is littered with Campanian chalk from the Cretaceous period. The brothers make this champagne from Les Hautes Plantes and Vignes St-Jean, two of the finest parcels 'en haut de coteau' in Ludes. Due to the cool location and chalky soils, the grapes ripen slowly but fully and retain naturally high acidity that is perfect for long ageing. The still wine ferments in young 350ltr barrels and ages on fine lees before bottling for the second fermentation. The champagne is then given a prolonged 78-month bottle age 'sur lattes' to enhance texture and develop complexity. It offers brioche, ripe citrus and honey notes with depth and power that are quite out of the ordinary. In common with other Bérêche champagnes, there is an attractive marrowy protein note – a savoury touch of 'gras' that acts as a beautiful counterpoint to the salinity and gentle bitters on the finish. Disgorged 07/25 - Dosage 3.8g/l.
LES BEAUX REGARDS 2022
Ludes 1er Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This is made from 60yo vines in the cool and chalky terroir of Ludes 1er Cru (see Le Cran) – two mid-slope plots called Les Beaux Regards and Les Clos. The racier side of chardonnay comes through loud and clear in a wine built around density and tension. Confit citruses, wild flowers and spices are fused together in a deep, expressive and age-worthy champagne. The breadth and power of old vines in the Montagne de Reims give the wine much of its personality; there is a chalk-induced bitter structure, and a strong iodine element on a long finish. This champagne aged 36 months 'sur lattes' and will still benefit from a couple of extra years post-disgorgement. Disgorged 03/26 - Dosage 2g/l.
MAILLY 2020
Grand Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
In 2011, the brothers acquired a 0.50ha plot of 50yo+ vines on the eastern side of Mailly, bordering the village of Verzenay (Grand Cru). Mailly is arguably the less renowned Grand Cru since it has mostly been owned by cooperatives, as opposed to independent growers seeking quality. It is also an austere terroir; the vineyards sit on the northern slope of the Grande Montagne de Reims, with a very cold microclimate (not so much nowadays thanks to climate change). This is pinot noir territory; the domaine's old vines are planted in a deep, ferrous red clay (over the chalky bedrock) and produce small, concentrated grapes. As per the wines from Ludes 1er Cru, this is delicate, nuanced with great ageing potential – Raphaël favours a long 54-month élevage 'sur lattes' under natural cork. It is a very harmonious champagne, multi-layered with an incisive acid backbone. Extremely lifted with refreshing blood orange flavours, it is floral and herbal on a long savoury finish. Disgorged 07/25 - Dosage 3g/l.
AMBONNAY 2020
Grand Cru
100% Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
Since 2014, the brothers have been sourcing grapes from 0.5ha of 45yo+ vines in the prized Ambonnay Grand Cru – this is the warmest area of the Grande Montagne de Reims with south-facing slopes which famously produce full-bodied pinot noir wines with ample texture and a generous quality of fruit (in opposition to Mailly Grand Cru, for example). The deep, iron-rich clay topsoil imbues this rare bottling with a very fine and velvety mouthfeel. Fermentation and ageing in 350ltr barrels, followed by 48 months 'sur lattes', further increase the multilayered texture. Gorgeous red fruits and savoury spices linger on the palate thanks to an enticing salinity. Disgorged 07/25 - Dosage 3.5g/l.
AŸ 2018
Grand Cru
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
In 2020, two days before harvest, the brothers acquired 1.3ha in the parcel La Côte Linguard, right next to La Côte Faron – "the most complete terroir of Champagne", Raphaël comments. An incredible addition to the domaine's holdings and one of the final pieces of the jigsaw for the brothers. The stunning south-facing coteau of Aÿ dominates the village, a designated UNESCO World Heritage site, at 100-150m altitude. From 2014 to 2019, the domaine harvested grapes bought from a local vigneron and friend: 0.6ha of 50yo+ vines that sit on shallow topsoil (30cm) – the roots plunge deep into the Campanian chalk, imbuing the wines from this site with pinpoint precision and longevity. Fermentation in 350ltr barrels was followed by 72 months in bottle before disgorgement. So much class in this wine, showing the power of this unique terroir, always with a degree of restraint and nuance. The palate is large and crisp, tightly coiled, with precise, razor-sharp red fruits. There are beautiful bitters reminiscent of a perfectly-balanced negroni, and a strong chalk-induced mineral stamp on a very long, vibrant, salivating finish. Disgorged 01/26 - Dosage 4g/l.
UNE CHAMPAGNE 2016
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
After 20 years spent producing vibrant single-terroir champagnes, Raphaël and Vincent pay homage, with this cuvée, to the region's tradition of blending from multiple villages and subregions. Une Champagne is a selection of barrels from the best sites in the brothers' portfolio: Cramant, Avize, Aÿ, Ambonnay, Mailly (Grand Crus), Le Cran and Les Beaux Regards (Ludes 1er Cru). The still wines are blended in spring and aged for nine years 'sur lattes', including two years 'sur pointe' (when champagne bottles are stored upside down after riddling). The nose is open and inviting with complex notes of orchard fruits, flowers and warm pastry. The palate is beautifully poised, showing both weight and tension, and unfolds seamlessly towards a long mineral finish. This will age gracefully, a rare and outstanding wine. Disgorged 01/26 - Dosage 4g/l.