Pascal Agrapart
| Vigneron | Pascal Agrapart |
| Location | Avize (Marne) |
| Size of Domaine | 12 ha |
| Terroir | Continental climate with Oceanic influence. Clay-limestone soil on chalk bedrock. Various aspects, omit gentle slopes. 100-200m altitude. |
| Viticulture | Soils are mechanically ploughed, no herbicide or insecticide. Sulphur and copper against mildew/oidium although fungicide might be used in case of extreme pressure. |
| View Pascal Agrapart wines ↓ |
The Agraparts have been renowned for the quality of their blanc de blancs champagnes for many generations and even when the world queues outside his door trying to get an allocation, Pascal continues to be modest, reserved and down to earth, a true farmer and man of the earth. No website here, certainly no social media, no mixed metaphors, complex allusions or word games. Logic and experience guide him – his own and that of his family before him. Taking over the domaine in 1985 Pascal has quietly progressed to the point where he is a true master of his profession.
They have 12ha of vineyards, and 50% of the vines are planted in the grand cru of Avize, where Selosse also has most of his vineyards. When asked about the vineyard practices he explains, "my model is the pyramid. If the foundation is not solid, then nothing else works. I viewed the practices of previous generations as the base. If I had used herbicides then I would have undermined the foundations." Pascal works according to the natural rhythms in the vineyard. "The best treatments are sunshine, air and ploughing the vines. 75% of a wine’s quality comes from the roots. We have ploughed here for five generations and the vines are very deep-rooted. In hot vintages, our wines always do well because the vines can find water and nutrients deep below. I work the soil four to five times per season, when I see earth turned over, gently steaming in the cool early morning air, I find that beautiful."
Pascal has gradually evolved his range of champagnes organising his pressings and tanks according to soil type, and, as exemplified by his fine vintage Minéral, is not afraid to blend the wines from two villages together. His champagnes are enhanced by an extremely well-judged élevage – three of the five wines are aged in a mix of cuve and 5–10yo 600ltr demi-muids when Avizoise and Vénus are aged solely in demi-muids. We also stock a small amount of Complantée made from six different varieties planted in the same vineyard (La Fosse) as Vénus. Stylistically the wines are of a naturally expressive and vinous character – there is no mistaking their inimitable class, style and capacity to age. They are mid-weight, in between Larmandier-Bernier’s rigour and tension, and Selosse’s concentration, power and complexity.
There are not many growers whose champagnes are pretty well guaranteed to age well, but Agrapart is one – we recently tried a 2004 Avizoise in spectacular condition – with the perfect élevage for each champagne, patience applied during ageing, ideal deep cellar and controlled temperature for the secondary fermentation, and an understanding of disgorging, dosage and quality of corks that reflect a grower at the top of his game. The only problem with Agrapart champagnes is that the demand for them is so high worldwide that prices have increased and will almost certainly continue to do so – it doesn't help that Anselme Selosse advised Pascal to move his prices up towards his level!
Pascal Agrapart Wines
LES 7 CRUS
90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir
90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This comes from vines in seven villages, including the Grands Crus of Avize, Cramant, Oiry and Oger. Based on the 2020 vintage (with some reserve wines) and given over two years 'sur lattes', the dosage of 6g/l is well-judged, helping to emphasize its driving fruitiness and minerality. It is a perfect example of how a good NV champagne balances character and authenticity with sheer, delicious drinkability. Disgorged 05/23.
TERROIRS
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
A blend of the 2018 and 2019 vintages, made exclusively from 25-40yo vines on prime plots in the Grands Cru villages of Avize (50%), Cramant, Oger and Oiry. Fabulous colour with more depth than Les 7 Crus, it is much finer and deeper, a more structured champagne aged for 36 months 'sur lattes'. Buttery notes and fresh almond on the nose with hints of menthol and liquorice on the palate. Disgorged 05/23 - Dosage 5g/l.
COMPLANTÉE
Avize Grand Cru
25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 15% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne
25% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier, 15% Pinot Blanc, 15% Petit Meslier, 15% Arbanne (12% alc.)
Pascal co-planted 0.25ha of vines in 2003 in the lieu-dit Fosse à Bull in Avize. Aside promoting biodiversity, he aimed at showing that Terroir dominates grape varieties. Made from equal parts 2019 and 2020, it was aged in demi-muids and then given almost a couple of years in bottle before disgorgement. Slightly peppery on the nose, with citrus fruits and nuts on the palate, with a subtle chalkiness and gentle bitters that adds to the intrigue of a long finish. As of today, Pascal doesn’t think that tasting clearly indicates the specific character of any of the varieties, it’s all about terroir! Disgorged 05/23 - Dosage 5g/l.
MINÉRAL 2017
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
Made from two different parcels, Champbouton in Avize GC and Les Bionnes in Cramant GC, where the vines get straight into the chalky bedrock (no topsoil) characterised by the ubiquitous Cretaceous limestone. Minéral has a beautiful pale gold colour and is taut and reticent on the nose with a pronounced chalky minerality cosseting the fruit. On the palate it is slightly salty with a hint of iodine (and becomes truffley with ageing), racy and stylish with a poise and fruit reminiscent of grand cru Chablis. Disgorged 05/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
AVIZOISE 2017
Avize Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
This outstanding champagne comes from 60yo vines in the lieux-dits of Les Robarts and Les Gros Yeux on the Avize hillside, where there is a thin layer of clay over the chalk. The fermentation in bottle is carried out under natural cork rather than capsule, with a minimum of five years on lees. There is a notable step up in quality with Avizoise which has a dense, rich style and complex flavours. On the nose, you can smell mangoes and exotic fruits, which follow through on the palate, where ripe peaches show, with toasty, grilled notes (typical of a champagne aged under cork) and hints of truffle and mushroom too. Disgorged 05/23 - Dosage 3g/l.
VÉNUS 2017
Avize Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12.5% alc.)
The 55yo vines are planted on a lower slope in Avize called La Fosse Aux Pourceaux. The soil here is light and airy, not compacted at all since no machines are used in this vineyard, just worked by foot and with a horse called Vénus. The vines are close to the chalk for the upper two-thirds of the coteau and then on deeper clay over chalk at the bottom. Like the Avizoise, this has been aged 'sur lattes' under cork for five years. By comparison, it is a tauter, purer style, with crystalline precision. On the nose, there are brioche and truffle notes, tethered by a chalky, iodine mineral quality. It is finely hued and harmonious on the palate with a silky texture and long finish. Disgorged 05/23 - Non dosé.
EXPÉRIENCE 2017
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
"The ultimate challenge of making Champagne nature", as the Agraparts put it. Old vines from Avize make the still wine that is aged in demi-muids. The 'liqueur de tirage' (second fermentation) is unfermented grape juice from the following 2018 harvest. So as Pascal says, "Expérience is made 100% from grapes, with natural yeasts for both the first and second fermentations, zero dosage and only a pinch of sulphur added". Pascal started experimenting with this cuvée in 2002, and the first commercial release was 2007 – it’s very tricky to make therefore not produced every year. The wine is juicy and grapey, with a delicate mousse and an unforced feel to it. Incredibly multi-layered and textural, it has complex flavours of pear, citrus fruits and sweet herbs, attractive bitters and marked spiciness on a sustained salty finish. Disgorged 08/22.