Peter Liem on Growers' Champagne
Decanter August 2015
Agrapart Minéral,Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, Côte des Blancs 2008 18.25 (94/100)
Made from 40-year-old Chardonnay vines in two parcels: LeChamp Bouton in Avize and Bionnes in Cramant, this is rich in depth yet sleekin structure, showing an elegantly refined texture and long, chalk-infusedaromas on the finish. Drink 2015-2028 Alc 12.5%
Chartogne-Taillet, Brut,Montagne de Reims 2008 18 (93/100)
From the clay-rich vineyard of Les Couarres, this blend of60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay combines ripe fruit with zesty acidity. Whileits intensity of flavour is alluring now, its structure emphasises itssuitability for long ageing. Drink 2015-2028 Alc 12.5%
Benoît-Lahaye, BrutBlanc de Noirs, Montagne de Reims, NV 17.5 (91/100)
Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this is a vivid, energeticChampagne, which shows the power and ripeness of the fruit grown in itssouth-facing vineyards, while also demonstrating a sophisticated elegance andpoise. Its ample, red-fruit fragrancepersists with great length, all anchored by chalky minerality. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 12.5%
Roses de Jeanne, Côtede Val Vilaine, Brut Blanc de Noirs, Côte des Bar 2012 17.5 (91/100)
From a south-facing parcel of Pinot Noir, planted in 1974,this is rich and ripe, with a vibrant, mouthfilling depth of fruit. It’s exuberant without being at all blowsy,and is firmly pinned down by its zesty acidity and stoney, flinty minerality. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 12.5%