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Peter Liem on Growers' Champagne

Decanter August 2015

Agrapart Minéral, Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, Côte des Blancs 2008 18.25 (94/100)

Made from 40-year-old Chardonnay vines in two parcels: Le Champ Bouton in Avize and Bionnes in Cramant, this is rich in depth yet sleek in structure, showing an elegantly refined texture and long, chalk-infused aromas on the finish.  Drink 2015-2028 Alc 12.5%

Chartogne-Taillet, Brut, Montagne de Reims 2008 18 (93/100)

From the clay-rich vineyard of Les Couarres, this blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay combines ripe fruit with zesty acidity. While its intensity of flavour is alluring now, its structure emphasises its suitability for long ageing.  Drink 2015-2028 Alc 12.5%

Benoît-Lahaye, Brut Blanc de Noirs, Montagne de Reims, NV 17.5 (91/100)

Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this is a vivid, energetic Champagne, which shows the power and ripeness of the fruit grown in its south-facing vineyards, while also demonstrating a sophisticated elegance and poise.  Its ample, red-fruit fragrance persists with great length, all anchored by chalky minerality.  Drink 2015-2020 Alc 12.5%

Roses de Jeanne, Côte de Val Vilaine, Brut Blanc de Noirs, Côte des Bar 2012 17.5 (91/100)

From a south-facing parcel of Pinot Noir, planted in 1974, this is rich and ripe, with a vibrant, mouthfilling depth of fruit.  It’s exuberant without being at all blowsy, and is firmly pinned down by its zesty acidity and stoney, flinty minerality.  Drink 2015-2022 Alc 12.5%

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