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Wine Doctor Saumur Champigny Bobinet

Chris Kissack's Wine of the Week in the Wine Doctor on 9th July is Sébastien Bobinet Saumur-Champigny Amatéüs Bobi 2008 - In the glass the 2008 Sébastien Bobinet Saumur-Champigny Amatéüs Bobi, has a pure, dark and rich hue, not opaque but certainly concentrated, shimmering and bright despite the intensity of pigment. The nose is just captivating, loaded with bright and pure fruit character. Underneath there is a real blended, compote feel to it, a melange of summer fruits, but on top some pure and brightly defined fruit character shines out, with a freshness, definition and intensity of aroma that makes my jaw drop. In particular I find black cherry and raspberry, with a fruit stone character. With more time it shows a more smoky, minerally seam to it, but the fruit holds onto that freshness and purity throughout. The palate is just delicious too, concentrated, full of cherry fruit, crisp and yet textured, the fruit flavours rich and clear, the midpalate showing tangible fruit solids, but there is nothing here to suggest fatness, this is just purely balanced fruit, minerality and appropriate substance. Despite this on the finish it shows a beautiful black cherry swirled with cream character, the intensity and concentration backed up by a seam of grippy tannins, but with that fine, sappy, mouth-filling substance still here. All in all a brilliant wine, just stunning in its form, flavour, purity and freshness. 17.5/20

What a wine! The last time I had such a spine-tingling moment of excitement was with the André Perret Condrieu Chéry 2001, four years ago. The deeper you get into wine, the less often moments of true eye-opening, breath-taking discovery such as this come along I have found. It is the purity and haunting precision of the fruit aromas on the nose that I find so striking. In short this wine is thrilling; it is not necessarily the greatest wine ever tasted, as it misses the silky elegance on the palate that screams quality, and which can be found in the wines of Clos Rougeard or Antoine Sanzay, for example. But, thanks to those hauntingly pure and defined fruit aromas, I believe this wine is likely to be one of the most memorable of 2012. (9/7/12)

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