Domaine Pattes Loup Thomas Pico Chablis - Robert Parker The Wine Advocate August 2011 reviewed by Antonio Galloni
Pattes Loup is arguably the single most exciting young domaine in Chablis today. Proprietor Thomas Pico owns five hectares of vineyards under his name and purchases additional fruit from vineyards owned by his father but that Pico farms himself, all in Courgis and Chablis itself. Both sets of vineyards are farmed biodynamically. The approach in the winery is similarly hands-off. The 2009 harvest began during the 3rd week of September, towards the later side for the year in Chablis, yet the wines retain a level of crystalline purity and nuance that is quite rare for the vintage. The 2009 premier crus were mostly vinified in neutral oak with ambient yeasts (unusual in Chablis), where they remained on their lees with no rackings through the malos. The wines were racked in August, 2010, assembled, and bottled in March, 2011 with no fining or filtration. Pico remains deeply influenced by Oliver and Alice de Moor, his neighbors and mentors in Courgis. Stylistically, Pico's wines remind me of the laser-like focus of Cedric Bouchard's Champagnes combined with the richness and inner sweetness found in the wines of the late Didier Dagueneau. Simply put, these are some of the most ground-breaking, intensely captivating wines being made in Chablis today. Readers should do whatever they can to taste them. Thomas Pico is just a bit past his 30th birthday, but he is already on his way to becoming a superstar.
2009 Domaine Pattes Loup Thomas Pico Chablis (no 136 on our list rated 92)
The 2009 Chablis is a gorgeous wine. Soft, plush and inviting, it offers gorgeous textural richness and fabulous balance in a style that captures all of the best qualities of the year. Clean, mineral layers frame the finish, but this is a gorgeous, deep wine of notable pedigree and class. The Chablis is made from a selection of late-maturing parcels in Courgis, and is aged in steel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.
2009 Domaine Pattes Loup Thomas Pico Chablis Beauregard (no 137 on our list rated 93)
The 2009 Chablis Beauregard is incredibly cool and tightly wound, especially within the context of this vintage. Green apples, pears and jasmine are some of the notes that emerge from this introspective Chablis. The fruit remains vibrant and incredibly fresh in this pure, dazzling wine. Beauregard is a relatively high-altitude, argille rich vineyard in Courgis. The Beauregard was made predominantly in oak, although 15% was aged in steel. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2024.
2009 Domaine Pattes Loup Thomas Pico Chablis Montmains (no. 138 on our list rated 95+)
The 2009 Chablis Montmains is the most inward of these 2009s. It is intensely pointed and mineral, with bracing acidity that is beautifully woven throughout a core of lime, citrus, jasmine and crushed rocks. Floral notes reappear on the explosive, insanely beautiful finish. This is another wine that needs considerable air to show at its best. There is no mistaking it is first-rate. All of Pico's parcels in Montmains are in Butteaux. The Montmains is a dazzling wine from Thomas Pico. The Montmains was vinified and aged exclusively in oak. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.