Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar Issue 149 March/April 2010

In a tasting of Sancerre & Pouilly Fumé from 107 growers, 2 of Gérard Boulay's Sancerres were rated joint best and the whole range did exceptionally well. 93 was the joint highest mark of all Sancerres and Pouilly-Fumés in the tasting.

Gerard Boulay
By Josh Raynolds

2008 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol

Pale gold. Reticent nose hints at poached pear, dried flowers, quinine and anise. Juicy and tight, with bracing acidity and a distinctly saline character to its deep orchard fruit flavors. Dusty minerals expand with air and add grip to the long, sappy, herb-inflected finish. More opulent than the 2007 version but I prefer that wine's nervy character. 89

2008 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu

Light gold. Sexy aromas of white flowers, mace, pear and Meyer lemon. Offers a suave blend of fleshy orchard fruits and nervier citrus elements, with strong mineral cut and building floral character. The minerality defines the long, sappy, focused finish, which leaves spice and talc notes behind. I really like this wine's marriage of volume and vibrancy. 92

2008 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Monts Damnes

Bright yellow. Expressive, mineral-driven bouquet offers an array of citrus and floral qualities, with subtle spice and ginger notes picking up strength with air. Stains the palate with zesty lemongrass and pear flavors. A musky anise quality arrives with air and adds depth to the long, spicy, stony finish. 92

2008 Gerard Boulay Sancerre La Comtesse

Vivid yellow. Strikingly complex aromas of citrus fruits, pungent herbs, ginger, smoky minerals and quinine. Fat, dense and expansive, but vibrant for all its size and thickness. Offers zesty citrus and orchard fruits, candied flowers and a late note of honey. This very rich but energetic and minerally wine stains the palate and finishes with strong floral persistence. 93

2007 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol

Light, bright yellow. Spicy aromas of tangerine, lemongrass and green cardamom, with a subtle floral overtone. Dry and tightly wound, offering zesty citrus and spice flavors and very good clarity and energy. The finish features a hint of bitter pear skin and hangs on with very good tenacity. 90

2007 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu

Pale gold. Pungent scents of pear skin, beeswax, dried flowers and lanolin. Soil-driven citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by zesty minerals and pack a solid punch. Becomes sweeter with air and picks up a smoky, flinty quality that carries through an impressively precise and lengthy finish. 92

2007 Gerard Boulay Sancerre Monts Damnes

Light gold. Lemon, jasmine, ginger and crushed rocks on the saline nose. Juicy, pliant and finely etched, with very good clarity and cut to the flavors of citrus zest, spices and smoky minerals. Tactile, energetic and distinctly mineral-driven wine with a long, focused finish. This will reward patience. 91

2007 Gerard Boulay Sancerre La Comtesse

Pale chartreuse color. High-pitched, mineral-driven aromas of nectarine, lime zest, white flowers and ginger. Juicy and tight, with bracing acidity and a distinctly saline iodiney character. Picks up a bitter pear skin note with air and finishes with superb clarity and stony persistence. This is one for the cellar, as are all of Boulay's wines. Recent bottles of the Clos de Beaujeu 2005, 2000, 1997 and 1995 have shown extremely well. 93